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Like I said wide range can be used. I like a ratio of 2-1-3. Low p with N-P 2-1, K-N 1.5/2-1 even a 1-1-1 ratio works. Then you keep the ratios the same and just adjust the N to the plants needs KEEPING THE OTHER NUTRIENTS IN THE PROPORTIONAL RATIO.

What are you talking about? Where did I say give it only nitrogen? I said PBP grow only.... How do you get nitrogen only? Did you even read my post about proper ratios and no need to change them? Now I'm questioning more than your understanding of nutrients

Oh I call bullshit on this hard bro .. again no disrespect bit nutrients do not dictate plant structure. They will give toxicity and deficiency but no way in hell is it going to change leaf to shoot ratios or any of that nature in any significant manner. I'm guessing you grew it under different...

There ya go. You should see the leaves start to look healthier as the soil sets out. Also cool root zone temps will slow uptake of water and nutrients... Just food for thought if you have them on say concrete in the basement

Plain and simple dude. Stop feeding nutrients. There is more than enough in the soil at this stage. Im not going to even go into transportation to control uptake to a degree. Stop over thinking. Don't over water and don't give ANY nutrients. If possible keep humidity about 60% and temps around 75.

Respectfully disagree. They really don't need much different ratios at all. Imo you don't need to control nitrogen by changing ratios. You control it by changing concentration and keep the same ratios. As far as DG they have openly said this and have also stated that bloom nutes were customer...

actually good info I have seen it happen in aquariums but not heard of it in hydro... not to be confused with it not happening. Tap will almost always rise but it can fall in PH. Its all dependent on the amount of Co2 dissolved in it. Usually there is more than atmospheric levels due to...

Yes I missed the over watering and could be any that you listed also

It more the airflow across the leafs. They each have a micro climate and they can't transpire well if they aren't getting some airflow though them. What happens is an area of high humidity around the leaf. I'm not 100% certain this is the cause but looking at the swollen intervenial tissue its a...

Its calcium and not because there is not enough available but because your plants is not transpiring well and calcium is passively taken up. Could be cold root zone, poor airflow, humidity/temp. In that container I'm guessing poor airflow maybe? Also I think that maxi grow has a perfect ratio...

Hey man been doing a bit more readin on this and apparently it seems anything between 1M and 3M is acceptable for a storage solution. I'm wondering if most sell 3-4 M because of the difficulties to make? If you have any insight or came across anything that I didn't that may indicate a lower 1-2M...

That's probably a good thing light drives growth so slowing it at this point will benefit you until they recover... if you get them to. Also a bit high humidity like 65-70% while they recover will ease the stress on the roots and slow nutrient uptake

Ok i'm done in this thread you guys all stick around with the wigi boards, voodoo, curses and magic potions. Not posting in here again

Depends on how big you are growing them... I'm not going to argue just to argue... No matter what you are gonna keep your opinion so don't really give a shit grow how ya like its not my problem you build a garbage system and use bandaids. Have at it.

Dude that all regurgitated bro science... DO is an issue when it cannot be replenished at the rate its being lost not at the temps we use is it an issue. You telling me the difference of 0.6 ish ppm O2 will bring pythium? you kidding me? They And pythium actually does well in cold water also...

Did you slurry test that mix? That PH mat be a bit low and some lime might benefit you. That compost is enough that you should water only

Also stop the nutrients for a bit. A flush with PH and temp adjusted water should help but not that 400ppm tap, preferably RO with 100-150 ppm of cal mag. Flush about 2 times the volume of that pot through. What soil is that? It will determine if you even need nutrients at all

I mean the leaf temps sorry i should have been more specific. Its not really the air temps that create heat stress its the leaf temps. Heat and light stress will cause leaves to kinda taco up. The entire plant pic looks great. I'm assuming those leaves are near the top and closest to the light?

Or build a properly sized system with properly sized reservoirs? And not have the issue in the first place? IDK just a thought. What your trying to do is build a system with a bandaid. Why not build it to meet your needs? I get what you are saying and there is nothing wrong with going bigger...

Stress will lower nutrient needs a happy stress free plant eats the most. Mainlining is LST so your good there it wont apply. If that happy frog and ocean you need to add nothing to it. The only thing i would consider is a BB or myco. Don't fall into the hype of additives. We all love out plants...