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As long as your getting air flow to the underside of the leaves. Can you bring your temps up a bit more. Don't worry to much about the soil temp unless ita on a concrete floor or something. Just if you had a thermometer you could push into the soil it could give some insight.

With that tap water you should not need to ph your nutrients the soil will buffer the ph for you. It's been amended to do so. This may be a convtrersial opinion but we can also discuss this is people feel like. If you have another container fill it with the same soil and lift it.Then after...

Hey man I'm impressed. Thats pretty good work ya did. If you can get humidity to 60-65% you will see a bit better growth at this stage. Also will slow the nutrient uptake and stress on a tiny root system a bit so that will help reduce the symptoms of over feeding. This is a good thing at this...

Ok look up VPD but don't go by the shitty online charts I won't get into why at this point I'm only saying that so you can understand the impact of low humidity. Very low humidity in a plant that young will cause it to slow and even stop transpirtation. It creates a lot of stress on the root...

Ok can you give me all the info like temp humidity and all that.

Could be 1000 reasons. I can go through your parameters tomorrow if ya like to get them optimized. You have to understand everyones room and grow is different. More food does not mean more growth and you can stunt plants by over feeding. Your goal is not to beat someone else, it's to grow...

Then your h2o2. I'm off to bed will see if you have any questions in the morning.

Yes... So you add about 500 ppm of nutrients 250ppm of each. So the total ppm is close to 700or just over. Then ph it to 5.8

Tap water is morw trustworthy than any nutrients you buy.. just saying. But yea I agree there is nothing wrong with using it. But it does increase the cost with. 4to1 waste ratio and then adding back cal mag. The micros in tap are also beneficial. I mean by that logic growing in soil is dirty...

Wait... I'm confused are you using tap water?

Just use tap water. No need for RO. Unless you just wanna waste water and money... Up to you either will work but if you use RO we need to recalculate because you won't be adding the mag sulfate and will be using the cal mag.

Then the 150ppm tap water puts ya about 220 so at 700 ppm total you will have 480ppm of you 50/50 nutes. Just like I was saying 475-500

In RO water right

Dude .5 g per gallon not 2g per gallon 6 grams

After we get all this sorted we gonna go over your environment. Calcium is passively uptaken for the most part so making sure you have good transpirtation is important. But get this is order first

Also an option but with 150ppm tap there is no need for RO. Most will be calcium and at that ppm I highly doubt much sodium maybe 20ppm. The mag is usually a bit low in tap so adding some mag sulfate should do the trick ending ppm will be about 175-200ppm and RO and cal mag will be about 150ppm...

I would do 1ml per gal at 30% but yes dilute by atleast 10x before adding to res. If you have diluted it to 3% then yes 10ml a gal Added: and come hell or high water you add that ever 3 days

Ok not to bad yet. I think see some slime. Temp adjust your tap water and if you have a sprayer rinse the roots if there is any slime on them. Do you have any beneficial bacteria or h2o2?

Make sure you check both in 24hrs this is going to tell us if we need to add buffers for the ph to keep it more stable.

Yes fill the res, add the mag sulfate then add the nutrients 50/50 to bring ppm to 700ish then ph down. Then check ph in 1hr because it's going to rise a bit from the tap water off gassing. Then record that number and the ppm. In 24hrs check both and write them down again