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Your one of the members here posting real info and there are plenty that do. It's sooo frustrating watching people being given BS misinformation that makes no sense and that costs them hard earned money then blaming them using some stupid reason just to make yourself look right. I make my share...

This is exactly why I stopped posting here. Sooo much bro science and just dick swinging. Look at me, look at my roots, look at my plants... Therefore I am right. FFS try actually scientific info for once. It easy to do and results are better than you might think. Nope to busy pushing...

Are you suggesting I'm lying? Did I say you can't get good growth at 65f... Why so defensive. It's not a simple as water temps of 65f and upping humidity. Stop the bro science BS. Fact: under ideal VPD and environmental factors you will get better growth with 75-77f water temps. Fact: water...

3% h2o2 from the pharmacy is not good to use it has a buncha other added shit. You can get 29% food grade at most hydro shops. Use 1ml per gal but dilute it by at least 10x before adding to the Rez. It will keep it in check but not likely to cure it. You will need to add it every 3days...

Water temps have nothing to do with root rot.

So much bullshit spread about pythium dude. Its damaged or unhealthy root system that have the biggest risk of infection. A good healthy root system in a live or sterile system are the best defence. It's not temperature or dissolved oxygen. It's root health. Yes both contribute to root health...

If not positioned right and hard flow rate they can damage the roots giving an opening to pythium. Neither air stones nor water falls will prevent it. IDC what claims are made. Pythium doesn't either. Get yourself some hydrogaurd. Enzymes will not get rid of pythium they help eliminate the food...

My opinion is an echo... The bigger the better and more stable. Of course with diminished returns. I like a res double the volume of my sites. Find it's does the job for me. You want a turnover of about 10x per hr of the total volume of sites. I find it's closer to 3 gal a site. Although as...

75-125 I would say is ideal. So your good. That's enough to provide a good buffer

If using silica I would say good practice is to premix it in a gallon and ph down to 5.6ish then add to the res so you do not run into the issue of precipitate.

I don't use bloom nutes... But I won't get into that

I use a 30x-60x

The only reason is stability. The more buffering the more acid the more stable the ph. But I agree there is a point where it becomes detrimental. Personally in my RDWC res I like a ph swing if about 0.2-0.3 in 24hrs. Can use silica, potassium bicarbonate, hell even baking soda at low levels to...

? It takes very little to lower ph. 85% phosphoric acid is pretty stable and very minimal ppm. Acid used also make a big difference in stability. If using citric acid you may aswell use nothing.

Honestly I used to use peat moss in pantyhose to lower the ph of my discus tanks... All natural and works well. Takes a while to adjust after adding but about as stable and safe as it gets.

Well it would but wouldn't in a sense. The more buffering capacity the more acid needed to lower the ph. But in the end a more stable ph. The problem is you don't want to be adding to much acid and it should be very diluted when adding to a bacteria culture or live system.

+1

The desirable bacteria that breaks down organics are aerobic. So if anything bubbling will aid in thier use. People who make teas bubble them for this specific reason the high amount bacteria can deplete it of oxygen very quickly if left stagnant killing off your bacterial culture.

Yes

Also tap water ph IME rises after being left out. The reason being it's in a closed system and under pressure so small amount of organics that react with the chlorine/chloramines give off CO2 because of the pressure the CO2 is immediately absorbed into the water and forms carbonic acid...