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Yeah you can buy manual setting humidifier, dehumidifier etc. Or just make sure they have the auto restart function

Really worth the investment. https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-ITC-308-Temperature-Controller-Humidity/dp/B01N56KEU6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=inkbird+humidity+controller&qid=1561942121&s=gateway&sprefix=ink+bird++humiti&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1 I use their programmable temp controller Soni can do...

Timer will work. Off 1hr before lights out and on 1hr before lights on

You don't need to calculate VPD at night but just need to make sure your RH is not spiking. Humidfier can go off a prob about an hour before lights out. Once they grow enough and you need to use a duhimidifier you will have to keep an eye out after lights out to make sure it's nots spiking and...

I will send you a VPD calculator tomorrow that takes leaf temps into account. That's very important and why most who say VPD is bs think so. They use it wrong. VPD works amazingly well when used properly. You won't see any condensation with that RH. The issues occur when you night temps drop...

Then you are talking about black widow. Look ww is pretty mold resistant. If you have good airflow through the canopy you have nothing to worry about I veg mine at 65-70 for the first 2 weeks then 60-65 until flip. You don't want your humidifier pointed directly at them either. He can recommend...

Your difference in day night temps will affect your node spacing. A 10F cooler night temp helps stretch it out a bit. I grow in hydro so you may want a little less. When you change to flip if you keep the same day night temps or slightly cooler day temps it will reduce the node spacing during...

It's not an impression i grow this strain

WW is pretty mold resistant. 60-65% RH will benefit you in veg. Flower 55 or under and density of growth need to be managed. It can get pretty crowded pretty fast. It stretches pretty dam good. Mine is a little over double but of course pheno will play a role. You can lower your day night diff...

You won't want to use water that has gone through a water softener. It will be very high in sodium

Im good with that

There are bacteria such as Bacillus amyloliquefaciens that have shown to attack fungi and oomycetes. These have been used in agriculture for some time now. In fact that is the strain used in several hydroponic and soil innoculants sold to cannabis growers for that purpose. Contrary to common...

It's not wrong. Pythium was previously and mistakenly classified as fungi they are not. I understand what I'm saying goes against what we have learned for a long time so thats going to make this a hard convo. I'm good with that and would rather take the time to go back and forth with peers to...

Yes this is where the confusion is. Anaerobic by definition is an area void of free oxygen. Not low in oxygen. https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/anaerobic What I'm saying it it's not the bacteria that case root rot. It's not a bacterial disease. Plant health and roots suffer as well...

I wouldn't necessarily say better but I wouldn't necessarily say worse either.

Yeah I could see that being a big stumper

The cooler temps slow down the infection. Not because of higher o2 but because of metabolism and reproduction of the pathogen. I hope you know me well enough that you know I'm not trying to be argumentative but rather debate and am absolutely open to being informed otherwise. I'm a stubborn old...

That's what I'm trying to say they generally do not do well in oygenated media. Yet you still see root rot in well oxygenated hydro systems and soils. It's not the anaerobic bacteria. It's the decline in beneficial bacteria that leave the roots susceptible to infection. It's literally the root...

The most common root rot (pythium) is not bacterial nor fungus it has been misclassified for many years and not anaerobic.

Only dumb question is one not asked.