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u can add 4 1000w lights. it would be really easy to pig tail a light controller to plug into old dryer plug. otherwise u will have to split it to 15a 220v plugs and individual timers for each light that have to sync up. also to be code u would need to make that 30a 220v into 2 separate 15a 220v...

Don't directly cool DE bulbs. If they cool the output goes to crap. Their are a few hoods that cool the fixture but not the bulb, but ive never used them. if u just use the open refector that comes with the DEs u save money and time not ducting. I like Ebb and Flow systems. pretty pain free...

I am starting a similar room. my personal first room with DE bulbs after years with 1000w air cooled hoods. My info on DEs comes mostly from friends who have been using for years yelling at me for not switching so hopefully i can help some. According to Gavita, u need only 4,000 btus cooling per...

You'll never regret the minisplit. a window unit that size would use a whole 15a 120v circuit. the mini will be on its own 240v leaving power in room for ur dehu and fans ect.

also Sante Fe, SaniDry, and Quest. all really good Dehu's. all rated at AHAM. All had service ports for refrigerant recharge, which is huge for longevity

the phantom commercial DE package has an open or enclosed reflector option. the open is supposed to be better for lower ceilings. i just bought 4 but wont be using them for a few more weeks. ill let u know when i get them up and running

recommended footprint is 5'x5'. they are about as hot as a standard 1000w hps but u cannot directly air cool the bulb like on a standard hps. u should take the glass out of your hood and turn off the exaust fan (or exaust from the top of your room rather than through the hood). if the temps get...

I have to remove over 3 gallons of water per 1000w hps during the most vigorous weeks of flower. the room is totally sealed with no intake or exaust. I also run a co2 burner which adds moisture. I highly recommend a commercial unit like a sante fe or phoenix as they are rated at AHAM (80 F...

Plants flower with over 12hrs of uninterrupted darkness. Forcing clones to flower will not increase rooting speed.

also often by sump pumps and RV hook ups

exactly right. a check valve at the output of each pump would shut in case of failure.

i wouldn't think ud have any transformer problems unless u share one with another house doing something similar. in my area it tends to be one transformer per house

Honestly i think you want at least 2 gauge copper for the hot leads. probably can do 6 gauge for the ground. But 4 gauge is too small. you could replace the 100 amp breaker with a 60 or 70 to supply the power to sub panel and it would be safe. If you need all 100 amps you should upgrade your wire.

and i believe 4 gauge is rated for 80 amps or so. not too sure with length consideration.

the important question is what size breaker feeds your sub panel? that is the most possible power supplied to that 4 gauge wire.

yes it is a fire hazard for use over 4 hours. if u MUST use a cord buy a good one with large gauge wire.

I now it's been said, but please don't uses extension cords, power strips and cheap timers. Lights use tons of power and run for hours on end. Very hot. I'd recommend finding someone you trust that can wire you some circuits just for your lights (220 would be great)

If the float will not fit in the bung cap I'd just drill the hole in the barrel top. the 1/4 float is use for my RO is small enough to be put in a hole drilled right in the center of the bung cap

I like to install the floats on bung cap rather that in the barrel side. Shouldn't be a leak hazard. But as far as i know, nobody makes a float that'll just screw right in.

i put my carbons inside a larger duct and seal them making them inline. i think u can buy them like this now too. Intake filter>duct>lights>inline carbon>fan>backdraft damper>exhaust