DIY-HP-LED
Well-Known Member
Ok I ain't as bad as a TV show and when ya get up tomorrow or visit in the future and read this shit, it'll be together, hope yers is too!
Here is the materials laid out fur those with a brain, I'm working on another lamp now and I'm running late cause life happens. I'll post a bunch of detail here, but remember one essential detail, the COBs go on the fuck'n C channel not the square water cooling tube. I'm laying it out fur ya so you can see all the parts and how it looks. You can use screws and nuts with no tapping or drill & tap the material I'm using fur sure, lot's of meat fur thread. You would only need a 3/8" chuck drill, a power saw with a carbide tipped blade (USE SAFETY GOGGLES OR GLASSES, MIN FOR THIS) A wrench to screw the big pipe threaded fitting into the end to cut some thread and remove it. Clean with solvent, seal everything with jb weld epoxy, fill in the corners on the tubing when ya screw it back in. Take care to keep the fitting flush with the side in contact with the channel, when the epoxy hardens it's a bitch to even file off, plan and be careful.
Fittings and epoxy can be obtained from a hardware store, be nice to the old fart yer gonna look for and he will take care of the rest fur ya, if yer an arsehole, then life gets harder, it usually does!
The parts and ideas are laid out on this particular pair of aluminum extrusion profiles to show where holes will end up, the scale of things, where holes for Floodlight COBs and holders for quality COBs would go, no tapping required. Run a big system with a 1/2 outlet fountain pump, about 15 to 20 watts or more will do just fine and a car or truck heater core (junkyard) can cool the entire system fur a 1- 2 KW water cooled grow, cooling options are pretty wide on the other end of the system from the bars. Garden hose works nice to hook everything up too, or ya can plumb it with pex if ya want, but hose to raise and lower the rig and maybe to adjust the width, if yer smart! Use pipe threaded hose barbed brass fitting to cut thread and a nylon after if yer cheap and want to avoid electro galvanic corrosion in the system. Ya can run CLR through ta clean her up, but watch the pump, a bit of javex in the reservoir helps keep the slim away.
The fitting shown was what was at hand, not the size fitting you would buy, but the same type to fit 1/2 garden hose and 1" pipe (tapered) thread on the other, they come in plastic too. Cut the thread, clean and replace again or use plastic, slather in jb weld epoxy (lot's of choices) fill in the corners and try to keep the stress on the end fittings to a minimum, but they are strong fur sure. See the section on hydrostatic testing on the other thread and read about Jimbob and Cletus above to get some ideas on pressure testing smart and safe. The wire going across the channel is for those who wanna use paste and hold the square cooling tube to the channel with spring steel wires, across the tube and into holes on the channel. Use a couple of dabs of epoxy like welding tacks on the sides to hold it centered or use screws and yer imagination. I'll use CPU thermal tape (same thermal properties as cheap paste) fur the test and floodlight COBs fur thermal measurements. This is how I'm gonna adhere the cooling tube to the channel. Might pull the CLU042 citizen COB off the leftovers lamp and put that on too with a cheap modified holder like that shown. So I can take Tb temps of the positive contact (I believe ?) and compare Tb temps on the COB to the channel and the cooling tubs, I won't get too detailed on this stuff. Why should I, yer not brain dead, only stoned most of the time and I ain't writing a fuck'n scientific paper, one offs aren't worth the effort to draw out either.
Here is what a CLU 048 holder screw holes would look like, you can see that ya can use screws & nuts to mount the COBs with good paste, I'd recommend an Ideal COB holder, you can check the hole pattern dimensions online, or go to the CobKits.com thread and ask cobby, send him here, so he knows what the fuck yer talking about. He might even tell ya if this hair brained scheme will actually work, or not. He'll comment here if it won't! I owe him one fur the way I'm mistreating his COBs!
If yer stupid enough to use an AC driverless COB on a water cooled light, like this four buck special here (full spectrum phosphor) Then fur fuck sakes, electrically ground the fuck'n channel two different ways, one through the third prong plug and timer, and a separate wire to a water pipe, rad or something earthed (careful of pex pipe here) fer sure. Ya can get fried touching the cooler if the water is dirty enough in the system and conductive. The dielectric layer might break down over time and a COB package developes a ground fault, after say a 1000 thermal cycles or so, yer dead in yer grow real quick and the carbon filter will take care of the smell! Regular DC 100 watt flood light COBs have an identical hole pattern too, so both will fit, but if yer gonna use AC cobs they are dangerous and inefficient as Hell, but ya can use the heat in winter, fur as long as ya live that is...
The test lamp will probably have 4 floodlight COBs and the citizen in the middle and might replace the leftover lamp on the end of the grow table, after bench testing, might be able to hook it into the big lamps cooling system. I'll silicone 2 X 100 watt enclosed drivers for the flood light COBs on the cooling tube, but if I figure I can cool em with water too, I'll use CPU/LED thermal tape for this. Same goes for the 50 watt enclosed driver running the Citizen COB, so I might be able to cool the enclosed drivers, even if I gotta mount em upside down on the 1' square aluminum tube. Holes will be drilled in the channel for wires close to the COB contacts and wiring contained in the C channel for a neater job. All wire holes through aluminum will be deburred with a larger sized drill bit by hand and when the wiring run and finished, the holes with the wires filled with clear silicone adhesive for safety and best practice. AC will be supplied through a 40 C thermal cutoff switch wired in series with the drivers on the line side, to thermally protect the COBs.
Many types of C channel extrusion will work for this job, quality COBs are mounted directly under the cooling tube too. There's lots of thermal transfer area between the channel and the tube.Two kinds of effective ways to connect the cooling tube with the channel you could use paste or tape and spring steel wires too, if ya were a fanatic or something, She should as run as the coolant and the tb temps of the COBs will be as cool as ya want. Though ya might have to get stupid with the chiller to do it, but not required at all. Use COB holders and quality paste/pads, sand the surface under the COBs and torque the holder to spec and nobody will run COBs colder than you, if ya use antifreeze and are fuck'n nuts too.
I figure the test lamp bar will look pretty slick and the design will make a real neat job on the wiring too. If ya build one, it'll be something to show the relatives when it's legal and ya wanna crow! See I'm not completely useless, I got some talent, even if my eyes are red most of the time and I look real oriental!
Here is the materials laid out fur those with a brain, I'm working on another lamp now and I'm running late cause life happens. I'll post a bunch of detail here, but remember one essential detail, the COBs go on the fuck'n C channel not the square water cooling tube. I'm laying it out fur ya so you can see all the parts and how it looks. You can use screws and nuts with no tapping or drill & tap the material I'm using fur sure, lot's of meat fur thread. You would only need a 3/8" chuck drill, a power saw with a carbide tipped blade (USE SAFETY GOGGLES OR GLASSES, MIN FOR THIS) A wrench to screw the big pipe threaded fitting into the end to cut some thread and remove it. Clean with solvent, seal everything with jb weld epoxy, fill in the corners on the tubing when ya screw it back in. Take care to keep the fitting flush with the side in contact with the channel, when the epoxy hardens it's a bitch to even file off, plan and be careful.
Fittings and epoxy can be obtained from a hardware store, be nice to the old fart yer gonna look for and he will take care of the rest fur ya, if yer an arsehole, then life gets harder, it usually does!
The parts and ideas are laid out on this particular pair of aluminum extrusion profiles to show where holes will end up, the scale of things, where holes for Floodlight COBs and holders for quality COBs would go, no tapping required. Run a big system with a 1/2 outlet fountain pump, about 15 to 20 watts or more will do just fine and a car or truck heater core (junkyard) can cool the entire system fur a 1- 2 KW water cooled grow, cooling options are pretty wide on the other end of the system from the bars. Garden hose works nice to hook everything up too, or ya can plumb it with pex if ya want, but hose to raise and lower the rig and maybe to adjust the width, if yer smart! Use pipe threaded hose barbed brass fitting to cut thread and a nylon after if yer cheap and want to avoid electro galvanic corrosion in the system. Ya can run CLR through ta clean her up, but watch the pump, a bit of javex in the reservoir helps keep the slim away.
The fitting shown was what was at hand, not the size fitting you would buy, but the same type to fit 1/2 garden hose and 1" pipe (tapered) thread on the other, they come in plastic too. Cut the thread, clean and replace again or use plastic, slather in jb weld epoxy (lot's of choices) fill in the corners and try to keep the stress on the end fittings to a minimum, but they are strong fur sure. See the section on hydrostatic testing on the other thread and read about Jimbob and Cletus above to get some ideas on pressure testing smart and safe. The wire going across the channel is for those who wanna use paste and hold the square cooling tube to the channel with spring steel wires, across the tube and into holes on the channel. Use a couple of dabs of epoxy like welding tacks on the sides to hold it centered or use screws and yer imagination. I'll use CPU thermal tape (same thermal properties as cheap paste) fur the test and floodlight COBs fur thermal measurements. This is how I'm gonna adhere the cooling tube to the channel. Might pull the CLU042 citizen COB off the leftovers lamp and put that on too with a cheap modified holder like that shown. So I can take Tb temps of the positive contact (I believe ?) and compare Tb temps on the COB to the channel and the cooling tubs, I won't get too detailed on this stuff. Why should I, yer not brain dead, only stoned most of the time and I ain't writing a fuck'n scientific paper, one offs aren't worth the effort to draw out either.
Here is what a CLU 048 holder screw holes would look like, you can see that ya can use screws & nuts to mount the COBs with good paste, I'd recommend an Ideal COB holder, you can check the hole pattern dimensions online, or go to the CobKits.com thread and ask cobby, send him here, so he knows what the fuck yer talking about. He might even tell ya if this hair brained scheme will actually work, or not. He'll comment here if it won't! I owe him one fur the way I'm mistreating his COBs!
If yer stupid enough to use an AC driverless COB on a water cooled light, like this four buck special here (full spectrum phosphor) Then fur fuck sakes, electrically ground the fuck'n channel two different ways, one through the third prong plug and timer, and a separate wire to a water pipe, rad or something earthed (careful of pex pipe here) fer sure. Ya can get fried touching the cooler if the water is dirty enough in the system and conductive. The dielectric layer might break down over time and a COB package developes a ground fault, after say a 1000 thermal cycles or so, yer dead in yer grow real quick and the carbon filter will take care of the smell! Regular DC 100 watt flood light COBs have an identical hole pattern too, so both will fit, but if yer gonna use AC cobs they are dangerous and inefficient as Hell, but ya can use the heat in winter, fur as long as ya live that is...
The test lamp will probably have 4 floodlight COBs and the citizen in the middle and might replace the leftover lamp on the end of the grow table, after bench testing, might be able to hook it into the big lamps cooling system. I'll silicone 2 X 100 watt enclosed drivers for the flood light COBs on the cooling tube, but if I figure I can cool em with water too, I'll use CPU/LED thermal tape for this. Same goes for the 50 watt enclosed driver running the Citizen COB, so I might be able to cool the enclosed drivers, even if I gotta mount em upside down on the 1' square aluminum tube. Holes will be drilled in the channel for wires close to the COB contacts and wiring contained in the C channel for a neater job. All wire holes through aluminum will be deburred with a larger sized drill bit by hand and when the wiring run and finished, the holes with the wires filled with clear silicone adhesive for safety and best practice. AC will be supplied through a 40 C thermal cutoff switch wired in series with the drivers on the line side, to thermally protect the COBs.
Many types of C channel extrusion will work for this job, quality COBs are mounted directly under the cooling tube too. There's lots of thermal transfer area between the channel and the tube.Two kinds of effective ways to connect the cooling tube with the channel you could use paste or tape and spring steel wires too, if ya were a fanatic or something, She should as run as the coolant and the tb temps of the COBs will be as cool as ya want. Though ya might have to get stupid with the chiller to do it, but not required at all. Use COB holders and quality paste/pads, sand the surface under the COBs and torque the holder to spec and nobody will run COBs colder than you, if ya use antifreeze and are fuck'n nuts too.
I figure the test lamp bar will look pretty slick and the design will make a real neat job on the wiring too. If ya build one, it'll be something to show the relatives when it's legal and ya wanna crow! See I'm not completely useless, I got some talent, even if my eyes are red most of the time and I look real oriental!
Last edited: