DonBrennon
Well-Known Member
Get over there and grab me some of Tony Greens Gorilla Bubble, Bx2 or 3 preferably, pmslwow they are not far from me.... i wonder if i could just drive to them
Get over there and grab me some of Tony Greens Gorilla Bubble, Bx2 or 3 preferably, pmslwow they are not far from me.... i wonder if i could just drive to them
no prob! I can't wait to make my own gorilla IWE...Get over there and grab me some of Tony Greens Gorilla Bubble, Bx2 or 3 preferably, pmsl
Fine im sureI'm going to start a journal for my SSDD and agent orange. For your base soil (SPM/compost/aeration) instead of 33% each, what if someone did like..
20-25% SPM
About 35% compost
About 40% aeration
If you have the soil inoculated already, plant away then come harvest time simply leave the root ball intact and cut the recently harvested plants stalk as close to the soil as you can, now plant your new gear right next to the old stalk. Now you're No-tillin' keeping the soil food web un-disturbed. Continue 2-3 cycles for each batch. Some do it for more than that.How would one go about starting a no till pot? Im super interested in the most natural growing method possible.
I have organic soil full of life but I'm unsure on the process of starting a "no till" in a pot.
Worms, microbial life, cover crops like clovers, and your crop of choice (cannabis in this case), I know are all components.
Some more insight would be much appreciated!
Another question, once I have colonies of mycorrhizae on the top of the soil in my bin, should I turn the soil? Or simply let it be undisturbed until scooping to put into pots?If you have the soil inoculated already, plant away then come harvest time simply leave the root ball intact and cut the recently harvested plants stalk as close to the soil as you can, now plant your new gear right next to the old stalk. Now you're No-tillin' keeping the soil food web un-disturbed. Continue 2-3 cycles for each batch. Some do it for more than that.
Ok cool.
Another question, once I have colonies of mycorrhizae on the top of the soil in my bin, should I turn the soil? Or simply let it be undisturbed until scooping to put into pots?
Also adding mulch to the tops of pots?
Hey man, good questions.I as well have a question, more so my wife's question (she's taking the leap and starting her own little grow!). In my facility, I will have Marionberry Kush, Agent Orange, Grease Monkey, and sour banana sherbet while she will be starting her first grow with some sour diesel autos from dinafem (I know I Know). My question is: Where I'll be stirring up super soil and no tilling, I'll be letting it inoculate about two months but she wants to start sooner than that. Without letting it inoculate, say she lets it set only two weeks or not at all and uses it immediately, how will that effect the plants (autos specifically)? I have never grown autos so I for one have no clue if it may burn them or not work well but I do know we both want to keep it organic no matter what. Also, using non inoculated soil for the autos or two weeks setting, is that soil a good candidate for no till on round two or should it be put back into cans and set the proper time to inoculate? Thanks homies
Pattahabi shared this seedling recipe and that's what I use.For plants directly after germination, when growing organic do you guys just use the base? I want to keep it simple for the plants sake..
SPM/ Malibu Compost/ Perlite & Red Lava Rock
I was thinking about adding a touch of Neem and kelp, but then I have to let it cycle?
WhatI turn mine only a once maybe a couple of times keeping it moist and "sweating" within the bins. I'll let it set without touching it at all, preferably three weeks to a month after the last turn of soil. Come time to potting, I mix it up a final time and fill all of my pots 2/3 with super soil and the top 1/3 with just base and that's always worked well for me. There's a million recipes and you'll see tons of variations with not just the super soil but the cold plug as well. I keep it to a minimum on the top 3rd with just base, myco, other beneficial microorganisms.
Sounds like it would be acidic.Pattahabi shared this seedling recipe and that's what I use.
-equal parts peat moss, perlite and ewc with oyster shell flour
Last grow I mixed up enough to fill 2 solo cups, then I added an 1/4 teaspoon oyster shell flour and mixed it really good.
Sounds like it would be acidic.
I recently started seedlings in a custom soilless mix to get faster growth. So far it has worked.
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I'll put them in a relatively hot organic soil when they go into 5 gal cloth pots & gradually reduce synthetic nutes.
if you mix in the OSF that will help with any acidity. i don't see why it would be acidic.What about that would make it acidic? I wanted to make a soil to germinate seeds in, before I transplant into regular soil recipe. I was also thinking about just using my base soil, and add a sprinkle of oyster shell flour/crab shell meal?
PH of peat is 5.5 -- gotta add more than a sprinkle of OSF.if you mix in the OSF that will help with any acidity. i don't see why it would be acidic.
i been hearing talk about the gritty kitty. what's the deal with that stuff?PH of peat is 5.5 -- gotta add more than a sprinkle of OSF.
Might be fine. For peat moss, I just use a mix that's already neutral, like promix but it's more of a personal preference I guess. Makes it easier to get a good blend when mixing a new batch of Gritty Kitty. I've also been experimenting with pre-charging gritty kitty before transplant using a starter solution that's very high in P (5-50-17). Done it three times with great results on both large and small plants.
The latest recipe is a 4-part mix:i been hearing talk about the gritty kitty. what's the deal with that stuff?