Stealth Cabinets

BudBaby

Active Member
Right ive got the holes cut but we ran out of fatmat so ive had to order another 15 sq ft:sad:, another 60 notes but hopefully be enough. Ive got some pics here of the fully lined first top cab.

Had a problem drilling the holes, because the wood is so thick it nearly burned the drill out on the second hole lol and its not even mine, there was smoke flying out of it but just managed to get it done. I dont fancy its up to the job for the holes for the bottom cabs though. I dont want to be buying a really expensive powerfull drill just to use for those holes. Any suggestions?

Also some of the top hats have arrived (rest to follow in a day or two), now the bends are the same size but i rekon if i bent the bens a bit i could fit them snuggly inside the top hats or i can leave them as be and just try and seal the gaps with sealant. Let me know what you think.

I could have possibly gone a bit further back on the fan hole but thought id leave a bit of area around the hole for bungee hooks ior anything else we will need.

Im just about to buy some heavy duty bungee cords off ebay, there ony about 4 quid delivered so even if there not up to the job its no problem but worth a try i thought.​
 

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stelthy

Well-Known Member
Right ive got the holes cut but we ran out of fatmat so ive had to order another 15 sq ft:sad:, another 60 notes but hopefully be enough. Ive got some pics here of the fully lined first top cab.

Had a problem drilling the holes, because the wood is so thick it nearly burned the drill out on the second hole lol and its not even mine, there was smoke flying out of it but just managed to get it done. I dont fancy its up to the job for the holes for the bottom cabs though. I dont want to be buying a really expensive powerfull drill just to use for those holes. Any suggestions?

Also some of the top hats have arrived (rest to follow in a day or two), now the bends are the same size but i rekon if i bent the bens a bit i could fit them snuggly inside the top hats or i can leave them as be and just try and seal the gaps with sealant. Let me know what you think.

I could have possibly gone a bit further back on the fan hole but thought id leave a bit of area around the hole for bungee hooks ior anything else we will need.

Im just about to buy some heavy duty bungee cords off ebay, there ony about 4 quid delivered so even if there not up to the job its no problem but worth a try i thought.​
More Fat Mat :( huh ok well if thats what we/you need then go for it. I like the installed mat I saw in your above pics.. lookin' good :)

Yeah lol I burn't my 1st drill out doing the self same thing lol :) ..If you drill about 0.5cm in then stop the drill, remove the drill and circ blade, blow the sawdust away from the drill and the hole your making and unclog any sawdust thats stuck in the circ saw's teeth...& repeat by drilling in a further 0.5cm then repeat etc etc..This will making cutting easyier and preserve the life of your drill. Note make sure you wear a dust mask and open the window to help keep the air breathable :)

With the tophats and the bends you need the bends to fit over/around the tophats, You may have to use some 4" connectors..or you can/could mod the tophat to fit inside the bend either by means of careful hacksawing and or bending.

I think you done well leaving the extra room around the hole :) means the chances for vibrations etc will be largely reduced :)

Yeah man try 'em thats the way to go... by doing that'll you'll get a better idea in the event of any future projects you may have :).... Not doing to bad at this handyman stuff eh? !! :) lets keep seeing the hard work pay off :) - STELTHY :leaf:


Ps/ I'll add the air-line install diagram tommoz - STELTHY :leaf:
 

BudBaby

Active Member
Ill try that with the hole saw mate, i pressumed it would just go straight through, it jerked that much it nealry took my hand off lol.

For the top hats what sort of connecters would i need? Like the 4" coupler i bought to the bottom ducting? Would this mean they would just fit together then? I could try modding them but if i could bend the bend lol slightly i rekon i could get it to fit in the top hat just right. Ill have a mooch tomorrow.

To be fair my sister has done alot of this for me as i cant get to the back of the cabs, touch wood though so far so good and no major disasters.
 

BudBaby

Active Member
Right ate ive had a go at trying to modify one of the top hats, i tried a coupler first but it wont go inside the bend or the top hat. I think what i have done will be ok but ill def have to attatch the bend to the tophat first, get it all sealed then attatch to the inside of the top hat.

Im struggling though to think how to fix it in place, i cant see sealant holding it there because as you can see form the pics the ben just about goes over the bery lip of the top hat, it wont stay in place unless your holding it. There is a few cuts on the top hat that are not inside the bend so i know ill have to p[ut plenty of sealant on those. What are your thoughts matey?

Im thinking i may have to go the no nails route then put sealant on top of that?
 

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BudBaby

Active Member
Just tested the pump in the top cabs and its still pretty noisey so i think im gonna have to box it off and try to sound proof the inside. Pretty gutted to be honest, the fatmat has helped a little but im not sure it has helped to the tune of nearly 300 quid:( Misses is mopaning like fuck already about it lol.

I was thinking of doubleing up or triple layering fatmat directly under the pumps, i have some off cuts of wood which i could line with soundproofing tiles and then screw the pieces around the pump sort of boxing it off. I was looking at these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ACOUSTIC-FOAM-TREATMENT-SOUND-PROOFING-24-TILES-/150387466340?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2303caa064

Im wondering if the actual size of the cabs is gonna make it harder for me to sound proof the pump, which was advertised as not eing noisey lol.
 

BudBaby

Active Member
Ive ordered those tiles mate, i just hope there the right ones.

Im in 2 minds how to do it, i can either fit a back and 2 sides into the top cab or i can make a small box lined with the tiles. I was thinking the box may be easier because i can make it then put it over the pump. If i do it the other way im worried i wont be able to cut the wood to the exact size.

I just hope these work as even with the fat mate its still fairly noisey and vibrates.
 

stelthy

Well-Known Member
Ill try that with the hole saw mate, i pressumed it would just go straight through, it jerked that much it nealry took my hand off lol.

For the top hats what sort of connecters would i need? Like the 4" coupler i bought to the bottom ducting? Would this mean they would just fit together then? I could try modding them but if i could bend the bend lol slightly i rekon i could get it to fit in the top hat just right. Ill have a mooch tomorrow.

To be fair my sister has done alot of this for me as i cant get to the back of the cabs, touch wood though so far so good and no major disasters.
Ha ha lol, Yeah be careful with the drill man! Yeah the 4" coupler is whats needed ideally, and yep - they'd just fit together :) ...Give it a go 'bending the bend :) ) see if that works 1st :)

I'd agree - So far, so good :) - STELTHY :leaf:
 

stelthy

Well-Known Member
Right ate ive had a go at trying to modify one of the top hats, i tried a coupler first but it wont go inside the bend or the top hat. I think what i have done will be ok but ill def have to attatch the bend to the tophat first, get it all sealed then attatch to the inside of the top hat.

Im struggling though to think how to fix it in place, i cant see sealant holding it there because as you can see form the pics the ben just about goes over the bery lip of the top hat, it wont stay in place unless your holding it. There is a few cuts on the top hat that are not inside the bend so i know ill have to p[ut plenty of sealant on those. What are your thoughts matey?

Im thinking i may have to go the no nails route then put sealant on top of that?

Id say 'no more nails, then bathroom sealant and then once theyre both dry apply silver (Aluminium) ducting tape..... The more Alu. Tape you use the stronger the seal.hold will be :) - STELTHY :leaf:
 

stelthy

Well-Known Member
Just tested the pump in the top cabs and its still pretty noisey so i think im gonna have to box it off and try to sound proof the inside. Pretty gutted to be honest, the fatmat has helped a little but im not sure it has helped to the tune of nearly 300 quid:( Misses is mopaning like fuck already about it lol.

I was thinking of doubleing up or triple layering fatmat directly under the pumps, i have some off cuts of wood which i could line with soundproofing tiles and then screw the pieces around the pump sort of boxing it off. I was looking at these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ACOUSTIC-FOAM-TREATMENT-SOUND-PROOFING-24-TILES-/150387466340?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2303caa064

Im wondering if the actual size of the cabs is gonna make it harder for me to sound proof the pump, which was advertised as not eing noisey lol.
Try sitting the Air-Pumps on a large sponge (like the type you'd clean a car with) I've done that to mine and it runs almost silently :) Boxing that section is also a good idea to largely reduce unwanted buzzing sounds etc...But they sponge under each pump will really quieten them down as well as the fact that when you attach the air-lines that too will make them run alot quieter :)

Those accoustic mats are what Ive used to line part of my cab with..The only thing is do you need 20 or 30 tiles?? I would have thought 4 or 5 tops! ..Work out how big the box/housing will be for the pumps and then work out how many squares/tiles you'll need to cover that area in both the cabs! E-mail the dude on E-Bay and see if you can buy less for an arranged price to suit your needs, Hope that helps - STELTHY :leaf:
 

stelthy

Well-Known Member
Ive ordered those tiles mate, i just hope there the right ones.

Im in 2 minds how to do it, i can either fit a back and 2 sides into the top cab or i can make a small box lined with the tiles. I was thinking the box may be easier because i can make it then put it over the pump. If i do it the other way im worried i wont be able to cut the wood to the exact size.

I just hope these work as even with the fat mate its still fairly noisey and vibrates.
Make sure the pumps sit on sponges and neither the air lines or pumps come in contact with any hard surfaces :) ...I'd make a box 10" X 10" with all 4 sides have a hinge on the front panel so you can open the box for easier acces etc.. Make a few tiny holes so the boxes breathe maybe 4 or 5 1mm holes and drill 8 airline hose holes out the back, Then cover the inside of the box completely and tidyly with the accoustic mat.. The end result should be a box sitting on accoustic mat filled with accoustic mat with an air pump inside and when closed air holes for the pump to draw air in from and 8 byro sized holes at the back for the air-line to exit out of :) ....Job done... I can draw a sketch if need be tell me what you think? :) - STELTHY :leaf:
 

BudBaby

Active Member
That sounds great mate. To be fair i didnt think it was too bad but the breadknife is slowly coming round to this now so when she said it was to loud i thought id try and make it as silent as possible.

Ive put a bath towel under it and even thats made it a bit better. I didint even think about the ari lines being connected making it less noisey:) Im hoping the extra tiles will come in handy for something also and they were ony £30 for 24 x 12" square tiles, maybe i could make the box a bit bigger and double line the sides?

I think i understand about your box but a quick sketch would be handy if you have time mate.
 

stelthy

Well-Known Member
That sounds great mate. To be fair i didnt think it was too bad but the breadknife is slowly coming round to this now so when she said it was to loud i thought id try and make it as silent as possible.

Ive put a bath towel under it and even thats made it a bit better. I didint even think about the ari lines being connected making it less noisey:) Im hoping the extra tiles will come in handy for something also and they were ony £30 for 24 x 12" square tiles, maybe i could make the box a bit bigger and double line the sides?

I think i understand about your box but a quick sketch would be handy if you have time mate.
Yeah put a sponge under it whether it be in a box thats soundproofed or just the pump the more sponge material the quieter the vibrations become :) Yeah when the air-lines are connected it defo quietens the pump down :) I found that with mine :) Yeah if you can spare the room/space then double line a way my friend :).. I'll get on with the sketch later this evening and most likely post it in the morning :) Right now I need Steak Beans n Chips and some Grape Juice followed by a doob shower n bed :) but never fear the diagram will be posted tommoz AM :) - STELTHY :leaf:
 

BudBaby

Active Member
Cheers dude.

Thinking about it this accoustic tiling is 40mm thick so i wouldnt fit a 10" box in there as i only have approx 10" height in the whole cab, ill take some measurments tomorrow.

I also wondered if a carboard box would have the desired effect? Similar to how you use one for a fan but lined with tiles instead of filled with foam? Would be quick and easy and as long as it does the job?
 

BudBaby

Active Member
Ha ha lol, Yeah be careful with the drill man! Yeah the 4" coupler is whats needed ideally, and yep - they'd just fit together :) ...Give it a go 'bending the bend :) ) see if that works 1st :)

I'd agree - So far, so good :) - STELTHY :leaf:

Coupler was no good mate, was the same size as the bend and top hat which is useless to me lol. I thought it would just slot inside:(
 

BudBaby

Active Member
Ive got my bungees mate, i think one will be fine for the one side and the other side closer to the side of the cab ill need a shore one.

Another thing ive noticed is they will work to support the fane but ill have to hang then round the 4" intake hole which means any real movement and it will fall off so i was thinking of hanging the fane with some sea fishing line and using the bungees to support the weight of the fan, what do you think?
 

TweedleD

Active Member
Whoa, just stumbled upon this thread. I too myself and going down the stealth root.
I hope you dont mind, but can you have a look at my set up and tell me if there are any ways to make it a bit quieter?

I suppose i should use acoustic ducting and leepy box mod, but i lock my bedroom door so nobody comes in.
It is pretty silent but if you listen carefully you can hear it a bit.

I would love to read all 46 pages but most of it seems like a conversation between the op and stealthy..haha

Peace
 

BudBaby

Active Member
I should have taken more pics really but i always forget to take them while im actually doing something to the cabs so dont remember until after its done. My grow journal will have alot more pics in it. I cant believe ive got this far to be honest ive nver done anything like this before and im not usually good at diy!
 

BudBaby

Active Member
I'm thinking if I do use some fish line I could leave a bit of slack in them so they would just be there as a safety net.
 

BudBaby

Active Member
The bend and top hat have bonded quite nicely so im pleased about that, ive just slapped another load of no nails on it to fill in any gaps then when thats dry tomorrow ill rub silicone all over it to be double safe.

I noticed though that the no nails isnt weather proof which im guessing means its not mould resistant so im hoping its ok for the top cabs but ill have to find something else for the bottom cabs as i dont want mould in there.
 
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