DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
Rrog,
I transplanted some clover from my lawn into one of my pots it seems to be doing okay, is there a problem other then what else I might bring in from outside?
DankSwag
Grow On My Friends Grow On
Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread
- Thread starter headtreep
- Start date
I transplanted some clover from my lawn into one of my pots it seems to be doing okay, is there a problem other then what else I might bring in from outside?
DankSwag
Grow On My Friends Grow On
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
Hi RCM,
As far the rock I use it is silica Higromite google it there are many hydroponic sites that carry it. Amazon used too.
This is what I use in PHOGS, specifically the passive water reservoir I use is filled with these and the cloth pots rest on top of wet rock where water line is kept below cloth container. Water is wicked up passively these rocks are good wicking agents with plenty of silica to benefit the health of the plants. Also lower roots designed to uptake water primarily will grow into the rock\water reservoir. I believe this allows me to HOT LOAD my soil in this system to ensure plenty of available food source for biological activity to occur transforming into readily available plant food. The benefit is if the soil is too hot where plants would normally find their water and thus induce burn just drinking water for photosynthesis. Having roots in plain water reservoir allows I believe plant to drink without overdosing on nutrients. At least in what I seen. I've placed plants in soil they should of burned in watering normally done top down. But with passive up take and wicking action taking place in the soil I haven't seen this light white tips is about it. At plants seem into flower to have less discoloration and nutrient loss. Just my observations using the silica rocks in PHOGS.
DankSwag
Grow On My Friends Grow On
RedCarpetMatches
Well-Known Member
Pretty good. However, I want porous!!! Actually found a descent deal on 1/4'-3/8" lava rock! I won't need much either as I'm substituting peat with coco...sorta combing hydro and organics. I just need to experiment with percentages. Mixed up a 2 gallon half cooked bag as a drainage/retention experiment:Hi RCM,
As far the rock I use it is silica Higromite google it there are many hydroponic sites that carry it. Amazon used too.
This is what I use in PHOGS, specifically the passive water reservoir I use is filled with these and the cloth pots rest on top of wet rock where water line is kept below cloth container. Water is wicked up passively these rocks are good wicking agents with plenty of silica to benefit the health of the plants. Also lower roots designed to uptake water primarily will grow into the rock\water reservoir. I believe this allows me to HOT LOAD my soil in this system to ensure plenty of available food source for biological activity to occur transforming into readily available plant food. The benefit is if the soil is too hot where plants would normally find their water and thus induce burn just drinking water for photosynthesis. Having roots in plain water reservoir allows I believe plant to drink without overdosing on nutrients. At least in what I seen. I've placed plants in soil they should of burned in watering normally done top down. But with passive up take and wicking action taking place in the soil I haven't seen this light white tips is about it. At plants seem into flower to have less discoloration and nutrient loss. Just my observations using the silica rocks in PHOGS.
DankSwag
Grow On My Friends Grow On
3 parts EWC/compost
2 parts coco
1 part lava rock
Amendments of course
That's 16% (OCD lol) real drainage mat'l taking up less nute space, 35% coco that's IMO perfect drainage/retention/CEC all in one, and 50% goodness. I only want to use water, occasional botanical, and enzyme teas. Gotta have that living mulch too! As of watering this 2 gallon grow bag two days ago, with a bunch of airholes drilled in, it's retaining good moisture and not that muddy or compact. Prob gonna tweak it too 20% lava and 50% coco before mixing up a bunch. Sorry to ramble, but this damn coffee got me wooooo!!!
Rrog
Well-Known Member
Should be groovy!
RedCarpetMatches
Well-Known Member
What kind of clover do you go with Rrog? Everything's pretty dead here in the cold. Is clover more of a bacteria or fungi 'lover'?
RedCarpetMatches
Well-Known Member
Who knows...might end up with a 4 leaf
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
Actually they are porous, they have tiny holes in them to trap air. But not the same as the lava rock.
When water is run over them they sound like rice crispies.. crack snap and pop!
Look closer at the picture you will see these tiny holes.
DankSwag
Grow On My Friends Grown On
hyroot
Well-Known Member
I got red clover seeds in the mail from amazon 2 days ago. They showed up 1 day early. From what I could find. Crimson clover grows the tallest. About 12 inches. That one is prefered for colder climates. Dutch white and red clovers grow to about 6 inches. I chose the red for medicinal properties. I have a few people who are cancer patients. The red clover could help them and my mj garden until I get pennywise going. My cheese strains tested .
Shwagbag
Well-Known Member
I would be pro active and hit everything with some neem if you can. That's the best way to bring in mites and other little monsters.
I ordered some tree seedlings this year and I'll be damned if the cherry trees didn't infect my garden with mites. been fighting them for months now, hoping to finish them off this weekend with bombs and azamax.
Better safe than sorry!
RedCarpetMatches
Well-Known Member
Don't want to mess with my homies...
hyroot
Well-Known Member
nice green this time. your inbox is full too
RedCarpetMatches
Well-Known Member
Well just ordered my bonzai 1/4"-3/8" lava rock...yeah baby. Now shopping for an ebay seller that'll do a living mulch bundle. Thinking mini,white, and crimson clover to start. Also thinking about your grass DANK...I'll just steal everyone's ideas and combine them
hyroot
Well-Known Member
I like to make a layer of sea salt topdressing. lolWell just ordered my bonzai 1/4"-3/8" lava rock...yeah baby. Now shopping for an ebay seller that'll do a living mulch bundle. Thinking mini,white, and crimson clover to start. Also thinking about your grass DANK...I'll just steal everyone's ideas and combine them
check amazon
http://www.amazon.com/White-Clover-Pasture-Wildlife-Attractant/dp/B004OSVF44/ref=pd_bxgy_lg_img_y
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Z3KJH2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/Crimson-Clover-Seed-Flowering-Cover/dp/B004OSW2DM/ref=pd_bxgy_lg_img_z
RedCarpetMatches
Well-Known Member
Sea salt it is! Brilliant!!!
foreverflyhi
Well-Known Member
hey every one,
hoping someone can point me to the right direction, wanted to start experimenting with spider predators(had small problem late in flowering and want to be extra cautious for next grow)
here's a list I found of different spider mite predators, according to a website called http://www.benemite.com
Phytoseiulus persimilis
P. persimilis is an excellent predator of spider-mites in humid greenhouses with moderate temperatures. It does best on dense low growing plants and is used extensively on field strawberries in California for control of spider mite.
Mesoseiulus longipes
M. Longipes is frequently used to control spider mites in hot greenhouses on tall plants. It is also used on plants inside under lights. It tolerates lower humidities than P. persimilis.
Neoseiulus californicus
N. Californicus is an excellent general predator for control of spider mites on roses and vegetable crops in greenhouses. This predator can also help suppress cycalmen mite in strawberry fields and broad mite in greenhouses. It tolerates higher temperatures and lower humidities than persimilis.
Neoseiulus fallacis
N. fallacis predator is similar to N. Californicus but is more effective in northern climates on Mint, Hops and Strawberries.
Galendromus occidentalis
G. Occidentalis is an excellent predator of spider mites on fruit trees, grapes and corn in the hot inland valleys of California. Tolerates high temperatures and low humidities.
Amblyseius swirskii New Culture
This generalist predator shows promise in controlling whitefly and thrips.
In the website it goes into each type, but i rather get real input with fellow ganja farmers.
Last couple thoughts, would IPM and aloe/sillica spray kill them, and would my lady bugs essentially dominate? I want to start a war documentary with these bugs, wouldn't that be cool?
...stoned
hoping someone can point me to the right direction, wanted to start experimenting with spider predators(had small problem late in flowering and want to be extra cautious for next grow)
here's a list I found of different spider mite predators, according to a website called http://www.benemite.com
Phytoseiulus persimilis
P. persimilis is an excellent predator of spider-mites in humid greenhouses with moderate temperatures. It does best on dense low growing plants and is used extensively on field strawberries in California for control of spider mite.
Mesoseiulus longipes
M. Longipes is frequently used to control spider mites in hot greenhouses on tall plants. It is also used on plants inside under lights. It tolerates lower humidities than P. persimilis.
Neoseiulus californicus
N. Californicus is an excellent general predator for control of spider mites on roses and vegetable crops in greenhouses. This predator can also help suppress cycalmen mite in strawberry fields and broad mite in greenhouses. It tolerates higher temperatures and lower humidities than persimilis.
Neoseiulus fallacis
N. fallacis predator is similar to N. Californicus but is more effective in northern climates on Mint, Hops and Strawberries.
Galendromus occidentalis
G. Occidentalis is an excellent predator of spider mites on fruit trees, grapes and corn in the hot inland valleys of California. Tolerates high temperatures and low humidities.
Amblyseius swirskii New Culture
This generalist predator shows promise in controlling whitefly and thrips.
In the website it goes into each type, but i rather get real input with fellow ganja farmers.
Last couple thoughts, would IPM and aloe/sillica spray kill them, and would my lady bugs essentially dominate? I want to start a war documentary with these bugs, wouldn't that be cool?
...stoned
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
Seems like a lot of effort when you can just use a foliar of... diatomaceous earth.... use alone very effective or with other ingredients to get their benefits as well..
http://www.richsoil.com/diatomaceous-earth.jsp
DankSwag,
Grown Organically My Friend Grown On!
RedCarpetMatches
Well-Known Member
Good ROLS with neem, crab shell, vermicompost, and nematodes is all you need. I've heard DE doesn't work when wet DANK?! Reed everything Rrog does for pest prevention.
colocowboy
Well-Known Member
You wet the DE so it can get an even coverage, then the water evaporates leaving a film.
RedCarpetMatches
Well-Known Member
Thanks for clarification. I personally prefer some moist living compost. Keep it moist with mulch. I haven't seen a critter 3 weeks in my new run and I use a lot of leaves in mulch.