Nute & Reverse Osmosis questions For Hydro

Incredible4Mr2E

Well-Known Member
I did a lot of searching yesterday and found recommendations for both 1 teaspoon and 1 tablespoon per gallon for spray.

Don't trust me to much, I have a LOT to learn!
I bought a 6 pound Jack's 321 kit off ebay with free shipping for $35. People there resell Jacks and other nutes in smaller quantities.
I was also on eBay looking at that. I figured I’d just go for the long term in saving money and by the big bags. Plus, if the world comes to an end I have two years of nutes hahahaha!!! JK
 

TintEastwood

Well-Known Member
I mix Jacks at exactly a 321 ratio with RO. It gives me around 5.8 ph and I raise it to 6.2ph with tap water, then dilute with RO as desired. Haven't added anything other than HO2O.

For Hempy buckets I mix and ph a batch to last a few days, but I also adjust it every day before feeding if needed. I had mag deficiency and started going in at 6.2 ph as Tint suggested and also raised ec to 1.6, seems to have worked. Check out Tint's grow journal and this thread, I think the mag def. discussion started a couple pages prior...



To start flower I'm using TintEastwood's 10-30-20 recipe but with less Armor SI since I'm running out of space and will have to do some training, then back to 321.
Unlike last run, I choose to add and Ca and Mg this round.
Jacks-Flip-w-Gypsum.png
I actually use only as much ArmorSi as needed to set final PH. Added last.

Silica, PH, prevent precip.
 
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Incredible4Mr2E

Well-Known Member
I mix Jacks at exactly a 321 ratio with RO. It gives me around 5.8 ph and I raise it to 6.2ph with tap water, then dilute with RO as desired. Haven't added anything other than HO2O.

For Hempy buckets I mix and ph a batch to last a few days, but I also adjust it every day before feeding if needed. I had mag deficiency and started going in at 6.2 ph as Tint suggested and also raised ec to 1.6, seems to have worked. Check out Tint's grow journal and this thread, I think the mag def. discussion started a couple pages prior...



To start flower I'm using TintEastwood's 10-30-20 recipe but with less Armor SI since I'm running out of space and will have to do some training, then back to 321.
So you can raise your PH by adding Faucet water and down with RO water?! I have Chlorine in my water, how long does it actually take to purge it completely out?

Yesterday I got my PH to 6.0. Today when I got home from work it dropped to 5.8 and is hard to bring up using the GH ph up (blue shit). I just got in the mail a new set of calibration fluid so I can weekly calibrate it. I need to learn EC and start using that reading instead of PPM. I’m going to get the ph up more and see if it helps.


Why do you need to cut back and why are you running of if room. I don’t know what the Armor SI but guessing a silica.
Dude! Thank you for all the help and advice
 

Incredible4Mr2E

Well-Known Member
Unlike last run, I choose to add and Ca and Mg this round.
View attachment 5031289
I actually use only as much ArmorSi as needed to set final PH. Added last.

Silica, PH, prevent precip.
What are these numbers I highlighted? Gallons? I can’t figure it out. Thank you for this chart dude! You guys on this forum are really awesome and so fucking helpful and not assholes with smart ass comments and advice 078543EB-9AA4-41CB-B3D6-623E0BE8123A.jpeg
 

1212ham

Well-Known Member
So you can raise your PH by adding Faucet water and down with RO water?! I have Chlorine in my water, how long does it actually take to purge it completely out?

Yesterday I got my PH to 6.0. Today when I got home from work it dropped to 5.8 and is hard to bring up using the GH ph up (blue shit). I just got in the mail a new set of calibration fluid so I can weekly calibrate it. I need to learn EC and start using that reading instead of PPM. I’m going to get the ph up more and see if it helps.


Why do you need to cut back and why are you running of if room. I don’t know what the Armor SI but guessing a silica.
Dude! Thank you for all the help and advice

Yes, municipal tap water will raise ph, they keep it above 7 to inhibit corrosion. I normally only need a few oz. per gallon max, my water is really hard at 1.3 EC and the alkalinity will raise ph. I don't worry about chlorine as I'm not adding any beneficial bacteria.

I use RO (or my furnace condensate) to to dilute my nute mix down to the desired EC, not to adjust ph. It has almost no effect on ph since it's such low EC, what I call a weak ph. It's why measuring the ph of distilled or RO is pointless, in a sense they have no ph, or very little. Distilled or RO is also bad for ph probes, with so few ions it tends to leach the ions out of the solution in the probe. ph probe bulbs are made of permeable glass to let the ions pass through.

I reduce the silica as I believe it strengthens/stiffens the plant, not so good for training. I really need to research... Thanks for the link @TintEastwood

I'm running out of space because plants grow. :lol:
I waited to flip until I corrected the deficiency and my cabinet is only 65" tall..... but it might be 18" taller before the weekend is over!

ppm/500 = EC
EC x 500 = ppm
 

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TintEastwood

Well-Known Member
you should give bulletproof Si a try. based on SiO2 not potassium silicate. doesn't mess with your K values.

from cutting edge solutions.
Great point. But dang spensive. Lol

I've been sneaking a little PowerSi into the mix up front. Grabbed up a bottle a few months back. Thick like honey, but clear.
 

Incredible4Mr2E

Well-Known Member
Yes, municipal tap water will raise ph, they keep it above 7 to inhibit corrosion. I normally only need a few oz. per gallon max, my water is really hard at 1.3 EC and the alkalinity will raise ph. I don't worry about chlorine as I'm not adding any beneficial bacteria.

I use RO (or my furnace condensate) to to dilute my nute mix down to the desired EC, not to adjust ph. It has almost no effect on ph since it's such low EC, what I call a weak ph. It's why measuring the ph of distilled or RO is pointless, in a sense they have no ph, or very little. Distilled or RO is also bad for ph probes, with so few ions it tends to leach the ions out of the solution in the probe. ph probe bulbs are made of permeable glass to let the ions pass through.

I reduce the silica as I believe it strengthens/stiffens the plant, not so good for training. I really need to research... Thanks for the link @TintEastwood

I'm running out of space because plants grow. :lol:
I waited to flip until I corrected the deficiency and my cabinet is only 65" tall..... but it might be 18" taller before the weekend is over!

ppm/500 = EC
EC x 500 = ppm
Ok, I understand. I have a spring a mile down the road from my apartment, guess I’m going to fill up a bucket and play around. Every night this week I’ve adjusted my ph to 6.0, 6.1 has been almost impossible to reach. I’ve been using a lot of ph up to raise it, A LOT!!! When I get home the next day it’s right back at 5.6 - 5.7. The new batch of water I have stored in the trash can for Sunday’s change right now stays at 6.2 and hasn’t gone up or down at all In the past three days.

I’ve read a little about silica and how it toughen ups the cells in the plant. I get what you’re saying about them growing lol
 

Incredible4Mr2E

Well-Known Member
I use these 10gal bins. Filled with about 7 gallons of RO.

On my spreadsheet, I'm mixing nutrients for only 6 gallons because that gives me the final EC I desire. If I mix for 7 gallons, I need to dilute with about a gallon of RO.

View attachment 5031415
That’s awesome and I’m going to get one of them next time I’m out. I’m going to play around with the spring water down the road and with the RO water. I think my buddy said the water out of the springs been around 250/300 PPM. I’m going to get some tomorrow and test it to be sure. Have you have any issues with the float valve at all? I’m worried about leaving a valve and it doesn’t work and I flood my apartment out.
 

TintEastwood

Well-Known Member
That’s awesome and I’m going to get one of them next time I’m out. I’m going to play around with the spring water down the road and with the RO water. I think my buddy said the water out of the springs been around 250/300 PPM. I’m going to get some tomorrow and test it to be sure. Have you have any issues with the float valve at all? I’m worried about leaving a valve and it doesn’t work and I flood my apartment out.
Indeed I've read about float failures. So it can happen. I've had no problems in 3 yrs.
I only have a concrete floor garage to flood.

When I run Jacks, my res PH is more stable when starting with RO water.

See if you can find an analysis report on the local spring water. Calcium ppm and other.
 

Incredible4Mr2E

Well-Known Member
Indeed I've read about float failures. So it can happen. I've had no problems in 3 yrs.
I only have a concrete floor garage to flood.

When I run Jacks, my res PH is more stable when starting with RO water.

See if you can find an analysis report on the local spring water. Calcium ppm and other.
Me and the wife are going to buy property next year. My plan is to build a 24’x24’ solid block room off the back of the house we choose. I’ll have a floor drain, ten foot ceilings, water, 220 power, I just can’t wait.
Ive asked for a report and always told to go online. Go online and it’s like a yr or two old but doesn’t really state anything of importance.
Can you tell me what this reading is, or how to read it? I’m trying to switch to EC, not PPM. I just mixed up a new batch of water with nutes and I’m reading 6.0 PH and that picture is my EC I think. 771D6C10-DC01-475F-8938-9338F226BE58.jpeg
I also put 15 grams of epsom in 24 gallons of ro water.
 
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