Miracle Grow Works Fine

Rottedroots

Well-Known Member
Pictures of what?? I love pictures...It's like an annual vs. perennial kinda thing but I'm pretty certain that with an annual weed like weed grown outside in GOOD dirt that you should not have to add anything for the first season, maybe even first couple of seasons.:leaf:

Start with good soil and should you have any issues attributable to lacking nutrients then go from there. MY soil/compost comes fully loaded right off the lot!! It's got N in it and it has P and K in it as well. It's is also accessorized with micro nutes up the ying yang.

Sometimes your soil can have all it needs already in it but your PH levels can lock those nutrients up and make them unusable. PH can be a pain but I send of soil samples every few years to the county extension or to UMass. They will tell you what your dirt has or needs at NO cost. Well I did hear they were now charging $5.00:-( but they will tell you more than you will even need to know.

PS............ If Sulphur is a neccessary piece of the growing puzzle then why do they suggest UNsulphered molasses?? Never used it either way but FF's is that way. Any ideas?
 

Sunbiz1

Well-Known Member
Pictures of what?? I love pictures...It's like an annual vs. perennial kinda thing but I'm pretty certain that with an annual weed like weed grown outside in GOOD dirt that you should not have to add anything for the first season, maybe even first couple of seasons.:leaf:

Start with good soil and should you have any issues attributable to lacking nutrients then go from there. MY soil/compost comes fully loaded right off the lot!! It's got N in it and it has P and K in it as well. It's is also accessorized with micro nutes up the ying yang.

Sometimes your soil can have all it needs already in it but your PH levels can lock those nutrients up and make them unusable. PH can be a pain but I send of soil samples every few years to the county extension or to UMass. They will tell you what your dirt has or needs at NO cost. Well I did hear they were now charging $5.00:-( but they will tell you more than you will even need to know.

PS............ If Sulphur is a neccessary piece of the growing puzzle then why do they suggest UNsulphered molasses?? Never used it either way but FF's is that way. Any ideas?
Good question, I think(off the top of my head here, would have to research further)that the 2 different processing methods are the reason un-sulphured is recommended as opposed to the sulpher content in itself.
 

Corso312

Well-Known Member
@ finshaggy..... they scrape the ground of bat caves where all the bat shit accumulates ..you can find bat guano in every grow shop and some nurseries..different kinds of bats in different parts of the world mean they eat different things and their shit is different so some is higher in n p and k than others.
 

Rottedroots

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure why Bat guano is the go-to dung of choice?? I used to have an old barn that had pretty much Knee high dried up pigeon poop in the loft. I dragged more 5 gallon buckets of crap out of that place...(sigh) In fact I would also say that every bucket also contained the moldering carcasses of decades old pigeons in it which was mostly bone and feathers. Bone, feathers and crap all in the same bucket!!! like a damm fertilizer recipe!!!:mrgreen:

All that crap went into the compost cause I was frightened at how hot that shit was so I don't know if it was good or bad but it had to have been pretty good. :dunce:

Well sun let me know on the UN-sulphered vs, sulphered. WTF, I don't have even the slightest idea of what sulpher does for a plant but there are some old folks who stuckstick rusty nails in pots for oxidized "iron" and wooden matches for "sulpher".

"In the Bat room". snicker snicker snicker. That really is funny, it just took awhile.:-?
 

Finshaggy

Well-Known Member
Pictures of what?? I love pictures...It's like an annual vs. perennial kinda thing but I'm pretty certain that with an annual weed like weed grown outside in GOOD dirt that you should not have to add anything for the first season, maybe even first couple of seasons.:leaf:

Start with good soil and should you have any issues attributable to lacking nutrients then go from there. MY soil/compost comes fully loaded right off the lot!! It's got N in it and it has P and K in it as well. It's is also accessorized with micro nutes up the ying yang.

Sometimes your soil can have all it needs already in it but your PH levels can lock those nutrients up and make them unusable. PH can be a pain but I send of soil samples every few years to the county extension or to UMass. They will tell you what your dirt has or needs at NO cost. Well I did hear they were now charging $5.00:-( but they will tell you more than you will even need to know.

PS............ If Sulphur is a neccessary piece of the growing puzzle then why do they suggest UNsulphered molasses?? Never used it either way but FF's is that way. Any ideas?
I started off with MG. I had no idea it supposedly has extended release, but I still ended up needing nutes. My smallest was eating its bottom leaves to make room for the top ones. This is my first indoor season ever.
 

Red1966

Well-Known Member
I have 10 plants going right now, 1/2 in FF soil and 1/2 in MG. They are all about the same. When they're finished, I'll post any difference I find in taste and potency . They got about 6 weeks to go before harvest and, well, my memory ain't that good, so hope I remember!!
 

leroy79

Member
I do not use MG, BUT I have used it before. As long as it gets flushed in the end there is no difference between FF and MG. I have been growing for 6-7 yrs and the only time I had a problem with MG was in the early days before I had an EC meter. Good luck with it!
 

Sunbiz1

Well-Known Member
I have 10 plants going right now, 1/2 in FF soil and 1/2 in MG. They are all about the same. When they're finished, I'll post any difference I find in taste and potency . They got about 6 weeks to go before harvest and, well, my memory ain't that good, so hope I remember!!
I'll be happy to remind you, am curious.
 

Rottedroots

Well-Known Member
Thats very cool Red. A side by side all things being equal test would be great!! I bet "most" peoples taste buds won't know the difference unless you tell them.
:peace:
My tastes are just not so discerning but I don't think most peoples are either. :sad: Fact is most of the time I measure a weeds quality by it's buzz and not it's taste. I do however live in a state (MA) that you either buy commercial weed or green weed and I NEVER have anyone tell me what strain the high end bud is. It's not like they say would you like Tangerine Dream or Aurora. They just ask if your willing to pay $70.00 for an eighth AND their scales don't work very well. LOL Sigh!!!
:leaf::sad:

Rock On Buds but remember I never said MG was just as good, only that it worked just fine.
 

joey555

New Member
@ Shaggy,,, im new, my 1st grow etc. well i used Mg PREMIUM SOIL. i even called the CO. about the ph range in it...5.5.-7.0. butmy plants 4 the most prt r doing well.....its when i started getting fancy w/ Dr. Earth 4-4-4 at an early age that things went wrong. it's trial & error. 1 leaf got heat/ cfl burn, another suffered fertilizer burn, BUT THEY ALL RECOVERED. again live u learn, now nect time i'll go w/ foxfarm light warrior, ocean etc. but i didn't know bettre and thats all i has was MG. ALL IS WELL W/ THE M.G.

BUt i do use wormcastimg...it's always good 4 ur plants....it hold many properties. and its bot abrasive too the M.J. thus, 1 can use M.G and probally get a decent or good yield.sept. 21st looking stout and healthy.JPG....then 1 learns from good ppl. and forums like this and u get better. Personally from the plethora of things i have read and personal correspoSnapshot_20110922_3.JPGndences I 'd say one can do better than M.G especially the soil..it has time-released polymers or capsules...so it leaves a lot of guess work. kView attachment 1806316nowing what i know now i would choose foxfarm. but i aslo personally believe u will be fine w/ M.G. best wihes &happy growing........joey


starting 4th set of fan leaves.JPG MY plants r only a little over 3 weeks old from seed. i have 5 42 watt cfl's. + 1 25 watt im not using now b/c i need another Y-SPLIITER socket and i hve another 42 watt on order which is 2800 lumens and 5000k. SO RIGHT NOW I HAVE 5 going on. 4 42 watt each 2700k, 1 42watt 5000k. those 5 put out more then 15,000 lumens. but like i said im getting 2 more
.

i figured u read alot that ppl use hps for flowering BUT can also be used for the whole grow cycle. so why not mix the lighting w/ predominaintly red/orange spectrum. i have 1 standing rotating fan to use to circulate the air & stranghten the stems....also have a small desk-like fan that i put the other way nexrt yo my plants as an exhaust. i aslo have an air purifier that has a U/V buttom that kills airborne germs, bacteria, cigarette smoke, mold spores...anything 2 microns and larger will not get thru. i leave my door open and window open.

there has been a lot of humitidty tho on the east coast. beat whises & happy growing.............joey
 

TRFXHD

Member
Hi, first post here, you probably don't want to hear this from some noob on the site, but I have grown other plants in my life, and MG is often one of those constant mentions in all ag forums, the truth is that MG was originally formulated for tomatoes, way back in the day, however at the time people weren't so trusting of new fertilizers, because they clung to their own recipes. over time they re-branded (aka: changed the label) it to sell to the flowering plant crowds, later MG revamped the formula after it had gained cred with the gardeners and produced their tomato formula which i believe is a bit lower in Nitrogen and higher Phos.

Also I guess it's imperative that I indicate that my nute of choice is folitech DM, but that's just me and maybe because I had fantastic results with my orchids..... that and dyna-gro
 

Red1966

Well-Known Member
I'll be happy to remind you, am curious.
I'll take you up on that. This thread will be dead by then, but you can send me a PM. Figure 6 weeks of flower left, 2-3 weeks to dry/cure. I'd put up a pic, but they're lights out right now. I posted pics of them a couple,3.4 of weeks ago in the 600 watt club. Culled 8 males since then.
 

Sunbiz1

Well-Known Member
I'll take you up on that. This thread will be dead by then, but you can send me a PM. Figure 6 weeks of flower left, 2-3 weeks to dry/cure. I'd put up a pic, but they're lights out right now. I posted pics of them a couple,3.4 of weeks ago in the 600 watt club. Culled 8 males since then.
Sounds good, red1966 is easy to remember...that's my birth year. Good luck with the grow!
 

Finshaggy

Well-Known Member
So, I hope that anyone who is on RIU or Google wondering if the Miracle Grow in the garage will work or not, has plenty of information to see that it works out fine, as long as you don't try to get you plant to grow bigger by putting more nutes, or just not reading the label.

And I'll put a grow thread up after it's all done.
 
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