GreenGenez421
Active Member
Planted the Gorilla Glue Autos , threw some fresh EWC in the bottom first and watered them in with a little something made with love!
GreenGenez 4×8 VEGANIC Raised Bed
- Thread starter GreenGenez421
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GreenGenez421
Active Member
Chocolope
Gelato
Both made it up.
But for some weird reason Mendo Purp went full retard on me. The cotylodeons continued to develope but the tap root didn't. I've never seen this shit before, ever. Anyone ever have this happen?
Gelato
Both made it up.
But for some weird reason Mendo Purp went full retard on me. The cotylodeons continued to develope but the tap root didn't. I've never seen this shit before, ever. Anyone ever have this happen?
GreenGenez421
Active Member
I love to save money where I can, so today I took an old 150w LED work light and turned it into a grow light. 6500k is the spectrum, and it draws 150w so im not sure what the output would be but damn it's bright. It is waterproof with a neoprene gasket sealing the glass. Should be good for high humidity environments. I plan to use it for my clone tent.
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GreenGenez421
Active Member
Not a significant update, but one none the less.
I have (2) of the (5) LED lights on in the 4x8 tent, approximately 36" away from grade. Temps are staying consistent via environmental controller.
Temps, 80F +/- 1 degree fluctuation
RH. 53% +/- 1% fluctuation
I'm ventilating based on Temps. 81F, and the exhaust fan kicks on and drops Temps to 79F, then shuts off. Humidity isn't being controlled. I have what I have. I may plug in a device if they need it, but everyone looks happy. VERY HAPPY. Color is good on all too, nice and green. Not too dark, not to light.
I had to make a slight tweak in the irrigation sensors, and dial them back ONE NOTCH. Presently I'm reading 55-mbar on the blumat water sensor. Just out of curiosity and equal comparison, I decided to use my digital moisture meter. One I'm very familiar with!! Conveniently the moisture meters probe is just about the same exact length as a 9" maxi sensor. I test right next to the blumat sensor. Reads 6.7 on the digital and 55 on the blumat. So I equate this to (1) notch turn on each of the irrigation sensors. This should put me at 60 or 65 mbar. My target with the blumat. And 6.0 or 5.5 on the digital. This would be middle of the digital meters range and is an ideal place for my soil.
I have (2) of the (5) LED lights on in the 4x8 tent, approximately 36" away from grade. Temps are staying consistent via environmental controller.
Temps, 80F +/- 1 degree fluctuation
RH. 53% +/- 1% fluctuation
I'm ventilating based on Temps. 81F, and the exhaust fan kicks on and drops Temps to 79F, then shuts off. Humidity isn't being controlled. I have what I have. I may plug in a device if they need it, but everyone looks happy. VERY HAPPY. Color is good on all too, nice and green. Not too dark, not to light.
I had to make a slight tweak in the irrigation sensors, and dial them back ONE NOTCH. Presently I'm reading 55-mbar on the blumat water sensor. Just out of curiosity and equal comparison, I decided to use my digital moisture meter. One I'm very familiar with!! Conveniently the moisture meters probe is just about the same exact length as a 9" maxi sensor. I test right next to the blumat sensor. Reads 6.7 on the digital and 55 on the blumat. So I equate this to (1) notch turn on each of the irrigation sensors. This should put me at 60 or 65 mbar. My target with the blumat. And 6.0 or 5.5 on the digital. This would be middle of the digital meters range and is an ideal place for my soil.
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
Me too! LolSubbed love those grassroots raised beds
GreenGenez421
Active Member
I apologize if I'm too rambly in detail. I am a VERY specific, organized type, individual and
Thanks, and welcome to my journal. After that idiot gave us a good laugh I was hoping I'd see you drop in. Glad your here!!
GreenGenez421
Active Member
Ahh, I though I deleted that upper half!!
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
I hadn't seen that you had a journal until now. Your setup is interesting. coco based no till is what I'm getting from this so far?
GreenGenez421
Active Member
Found this like guy hunting. And I can't say I mind either. With all the fungi I have in this bed it's not a surprise I have gnats already. What he doesn't eat will die once I fire up the UV lamps later in Veg.
I pull aside the blusoak drip tape and found mites. These little guys are hanging out directly under the tape wheres it's most damp and dark. These are good mites and are present in my 20gal worm bin. They're found in compost and have no desire for attacking plants. They're called ORBATID MITES.
Soils moisture level is reading exactly where I wanted.
Plants all look good for less that 1 week old. And the Autoflowers I sowed into the bed don't look stressed, so that shows alot of promise in regards to the nutrients being cycled and the pH staying ideal.
Everything is flowing just perfectly. I couldn't be happier at the moment.
I pull aside the blusoak drip tape and found mites. These little guys are hanging out directly under the tape wheres it's most damp and dark. These are good mites and are present in my 20gal worm bin. They're found in compost and have no desire for attacking plants. They're called ORBATID MITES.
Soils moisture level is reading exactly where I wanted.
Plants all look good for less that 1 week old. And the Autoflowers I sowed into the bed don't look stressed, so that shows alot of promise in regards to the nutrients being cycled and the pH staying ideal.
Everything is flowing just perfectly. I couldn't be happier at the moment.
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
Nice man!
GreenGenez421
Active Member
Yes it is Coco dominant. It's taken me years of growing to figure out that Coco is superior to peat. The only peat dominant, is when I propagate seeds. After the starter cells, it's Coco all the way. Even clones never see peat.
Thanks, the setup is nice, but has been accumulated over the years. I have thousands and thousands invested. Alot of my gear isn't even being used in this grow. If I had more room I'd break out all the HID hoods and Solis Tek 1000w ballasts. But since I went raised bed and All Led my input and operating expenses have drastically dropped. And I don't sell weed but to close friends and family. More like give it away than sell it. Lololol
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
Well your method and setup is really cool. I'm just starting off with living soil now, working my way to no till, hopefully. I still have a lot to learn and it looks like I'll be learning some from you. I'm not ready to take a dive into coco based yet. It looks like there could be a learning curve, but i'll definitely be following your thread.
GreenGenez421
Active Member
The main learning curve with Coco aside from peat is go very very light on the Dolomite if any at all. Peat being so acidic needs Dolomite to keep it in balance, if you treat Coco like peat and add the standard amount of Dolomite you'll jack your pH way up and can't bring it down. Coco has a natural pH that's ideal for cannabis, so to ammend and supply cal/mag you use Gypsum and Epson salts.
But first and foremost always rinse your Coco and test the EC while you do it. Use cal/mag like general hydroponics brand or purchase calcium nitrate and magnesium nitrate or sulfate to buffer the Coco. Sulfate is Epson salt and much cheaper than the other. Both nitrate forms are available online. I buy them from a company called Kelp4less.com.
You would ammendment the substrate with your preferred organic matter just as you would peat, there no difference there. However with Coco you add in organic acids, whereas peat naturally has humic. Again, you can purchase pure humic and fulvic acids from Kelp4less.com these are your chelates, they're extremely important and if you use them you can completely forget about pH ever again.
I can make up some Fermented extract feed water with a pH of 4 and hit my plants with it and not bat an eye.
Don't buy bottled nutes and pay out the ass for 70%water.
Lastly, ALWAYS ADD COMPOST and Leaf Mold to Coco and worm castings too, but not needed. Compost and leaf mold are essentials!!
That's pretty much It. Once you go Coco, you don't go back! That I promise you!!!!
One last thing and this is totally up for debate and completely dependent on personal preference and that's water quality and source. As you know I only use 0ppm, thats the closest I can get to rain water just like in nature. Tap water has chlorine and other shit that will kill off your microbes over time. It's my opinion that if everything your plant need is in the soil, why give it in the water. By doing so you will have an accumulation of things you don't need an accumulation of, like calcium, magnesium, iron, and sodium (if softened)
I would recommend pulling a water quality report from your local municipality. Theyre available on-line.
GreenGenez421
Active Member
Oh, one thing I forgot to mention. The reason you would prefer to use a nitrate form of cal/mag to buffer your Coco is because you buffer while you rinse out the EC. Once thourally rinsed of sodium the nitrogen is easily leached out with just water, nothing in it. Now you have buffered Coco, it will NOT rob your plants of the input ammendment or supplied in a nutritive liquid feeding.
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
I used to grow hydro so I have calnit and mgs04. I also ro all my water, even with los because I have really high ppm city water. I have the same theory that I follow, in that, i keep everything in the soil, so i don't need anything in the water.
GreenGenez421
Active Member
Agreed!!!
Now the one rare time I'll bend the rule is when I brew AACT, ill use mineral or spring water. Only for the benefit to the microflora im propagating. But its been a very long time since I've brewed AACT. Since I went LOS there's really no need for it, and honestly I like a balanced harmony of bacteria and fungi. Cannabis being an annual and commonly cultivated with a short lifespan in mind truly only benefits most from bacterial. But not when it comes to No Till LOS. Since the soil isn't disturbed the fungi can become well established and also serve great benefits just as bacterial. Each have their own purpose and just the same in the animal kingdom where predators eat prey and this is what keeps the harmonious balance, so holds true with the Microbial Loop. So by adding an AACT your going to disturb this natural harmony and have an imbalance.
But in the case of just starting a substrate that's fully fortified for the purpose of No Till LOS then I would definatly brew an AACT and Jumpstart the Microbial Loop, after that just let the biology of the soil take care of the rest.
GreenestBasterd
Well-Known Member
Very interesting, keenly following along!
GreenGenez421
Active Member
Welcome and glad to have you here.
GreenGenez421
Active Member
Thanks I really appreciate that, and welcome!
We're all still learning, I've been at it for 20yrs now and there's still shit I learn. For me tho, quality over quantity, and organics when done right,, will give you that. Quantity can always come later and is mearly a bonus.