GreenGenez 4×8 VEGANIC Raised Bed

GreenGenez421

Active Member
Hello I'm new here and I thought what better way to get acquainted with the fine people than to start a journal. Little introduction of myself, I've been growing for about 20 years and I'm still learning. I have grown every style from HPA to Bioponics. I've settled for plain ol veganic soiless. Quality over quality is my first and foremost priority. And I'm getting older every year and have less and less time to dick around with all the bullshit of elaborate grow systems. Mother nature nailed it and I'm just copying her.

Everyone is welcome to post.
 

go go kid

Well-Known Member
im likeing the sound of this allready. after being told that you cant do organic hydroponics. can you tell us more about your grow and have you got any pix
 

GreenGenez421

Active Member
what is the raised bed filled with? ive never seen that medium before. have you sucsessfully grown cannabis in it befor

As my thread reads This is a 4' by 8' No Till recycled organic living soil. This is a newly purchased fabric bed from sustainable village, and consequently Is new in conception. The media I used is and favor is coconut coir dominant. I prefer coir to peat for a couple reasons. 1, because it's responsibly produced and has minimal impact on the land as its a by- product of harvesting coconuts. 2, because it has outstanding aeration even when used alone without perlite or any aeration additive and its CEC is ideal essentially as is without organic ammendment and Trichoderma fungi naturally colonize this media. I'll explain the extreme importance of 3 Trichoderma strains later.

Cations are positively charged elements in a solution, while anions are the negatively charged elements. Cation exchange capacity is a calculated value that is an estimate of a substrate’s ability to attract, retain, and exchange cation elements. This is an important factor in plant health, as higher CEC will provide more available nutrients to plants. The major cations associated with CEC are potassium, magnesium, calcium and sodium.

CEC is reported in millequivalents per 100 grams of soil (meq/100g). The higher the organic matter in a substrate, the higher the CEC. For example, sand has a CEC of approximately of 2 meq/100 g., while organic matter will have a CEC range of 250-400 meq/100 g. Coco coir has a CEC range of 30-100 meq/100 g. Substrates with very low CEC are more likely to develop deficiencies of the major cations, while higher CEC substrates will have less leaching of nutrients.

The one major downside to coir is its natural sodium content and its insistence on robbing calcium and magnesium unless otherwise buffered. BUFFERING IS A MUST AS IS RINSING THE SODIUM OUT! There are alot of reputable coir suppliers and also alot of frauds. For my convenience I purchase ultra low sodium and pre buffered 11kg mega blocks from Australia. The brand is Nutrifield and comes backed with a RHP certification. I highly recommend.

Their is peat also in my substrate witch has a slightly higher CEC than coir. But I like to keep the peat value at or less than 20% so I will never have a peat dominant substrate.

And the aeration media I prefer to used is par boiled rice hulls, hydroton, #4 perlite, crushed limestone, silica grit, granite, biochar and basic playground sand.

You'll notice in the pictures that i have a mulch layer. This is a 3" deep layer of cocao bean hulls. This is a powerhouse media in terms of housing and feeding Trichoderma. It will literally colonize solid just under the surface and have a nice spongy like mat feel. Bonus, it makes the whole room reek like chocolate and I just love it for that reason alone.
 

GreenGenez421

Active Member
Subbed love those grassroots raised beds ☮
Thanks, I love them too, I have a 4x4 and a (2) 2x16 outside with veggies and my wifes flowers. Definatly a solid brand and quality constructed. I think the one main feature that sold me on grassroots is the leak shield thats stitched to the inside perimeter, mid body. All my fabric pots leak out the sides. Also helps cut down on evaporated water from airmovement blasting the pots. Good to have you on board, and welcome!
 

GreenGenez421

Active Member
This was my last grow I used bean hulls with, I mixed them in the soil instead of making a mulch layer out of them.
 

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go go kid

Well-Known Member
cant you use seaweed solution for the calcium magnesium and all the trace and majour nutes presant in it, you would only have to worry about where to get your nitrogen from and some extra p n k
 

GreenGenez421

Active Member
cant you use seaweed solution for the calcium magnesium and all the trace and majour nutes presant in it, you would only have to worry about where to get your nitrogen from and some extra p n k
I uses kelp meal and alot of it!!
Cotton seed meal
Alfalfa meal
Need meal
Karanja cake
Greenland
Dried brewers yeast
Gypsum
Dolomite lime
Soft rock phosphate
Glacial Rock Dust
EWC
Purple cow Brand- activated compost
Leaf mold (humus)

The list is way too long of Microbial Innoculant however the main ones I focus on are:
Lactobacillus
Phototropic purple sulfur bacteria
Endo/Ecto Myco
Bacillus Subtilis
Trichoderma -Virdi, Kongi, Harzianum
Bacillus Thungernis - Israeli

Here's a good link for info regarding the major benefits of Trichoderma.
https://www.globalgarden.co/knowledge/trichoderma-for-plants/

Link for info on BT
http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/btgen.html
 

GreenGenez421

Active Member
cant you use seaweed solution for the calcium magnesium and all the trace and majour nutes presant in it, you would only have to worry about where to get your nitrogen from and some extra p n k
Cold water kelp or any kelp for that matter doesn't have enough calcium or magnesium for cannabis or tomatoes. Dolomite lime and/or magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt) is what I use. Now as far as the trace minerals and growth hormones, YES!!! It's loaded with them but I always add more in the form of micronized Glacial rock dust, mainly for nutrient cycling of subsequent future plantings. But in short, sweedweed anything is a must either in meal form or liquid concentrate, I will not grow without it!!!
 

go go kid

Well-Known Member
Cold water kelp or any kelp for that matter doesn't have enough calcium or magnesium for cannabis or tomatoes. Dolomite lime and/or magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt) is what I use. Now as far as the trace minerals and growth hormones, YES!!! It's loaded with them but I always add more in the form of micronized Glacial rock dust, mainly for nutrient cycling of subsequent future plantings. But in short, sweedweed anything is a must either in meal form or liquid concentrate, I will not grow without it!!!
bolox, ive never had a cal mag def in my entire life of growing and i use seaweed, unless ive been lucky whicj=h wouldent surprise me. ive alleways grown with well water or rain water or now i grow with bore hole water, never had to add cal mag to a single grow
 

GreenGenez421

Active Member
bolox, ive never had a cal mag def in my entire life of growing and i use seaweed, unless ive been lucky whicj=h wouldent surprise me. ive alleways grown with well water or rain water or now i grow with bore hole water, never had to add cal mag to a single grow
My water is municipal and it's very hard. Chlorine and Chloride, fluoride, iron and probably trace lead. I don't even drink it or boil noodles with it. Laundry and showers is all its good for. I have a 350gpd reverse osmosis purification system with de-ionizer. I have 2 accumulators, 10gallon for drinking and cooking and a 2gallon for the gardens automated irrigation. I like to keep them pressurized at 100psi
 

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GreenGenez421

Active Member
Thought I'd throw up a picture of my RO+DI system.
350gpd is overkill for a water only garden but I used to be very big with hydroponics and did a little dabbling with bioponics. Oh shit, now that I look at the picture, I need to change my DI resin. Should be blue, red is spent. I have about 1/4 life left.
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GreenGenez421

Active Member
I like your blusoak setup. I'm just setting up a 4x4 no till bed with a blusoak hose. What moisture level do you shoot for with that blumats meter?
Thanks. The blusoak is totally new to me, but shouldn't be any different than using the 5" carrots and 9" maxi's. The meter is also new, however from the videos on YouTube from sustainable village, dude said cannabis likes the 80-100 range. I think this is totally dependent on the type of soil, as some are more airy and others more dense. I use alot of Leaf Mold, compost and EWC.
My personal target is 60 but as I said this is new to me so I'm expecting to have to tweak and fine tune everything based on how my plants respond.
 

GreenGenez421

Active Member
Not a whole lot going on at this time. I germinated 4 seeds from a past breeding project of mine. All 4 sank to the bottom within 12 hrs of the initial soak. Then into damp paper towel for the remaining 2 days. Sowed the 4 on Tuesday May 4th.

Alien Technology (f) x Deathstar OG (m)

I haven't named anything yet. Thought it would be fun if others chimed in on a strain name.
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I dont provide anything to encourage germination. No tray with dome, no increased humidity. If it's a viable seed with vigor it will always germinate and grow at ambient conditions. 60F and 50%Rh

Gorilla glue #4 Feminized Autoflower
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Germinated and sowed, unfortunately not up yet,
Chocolope (f)
Gelato (f)
Mendocino Purps (f)
These are photoperiodic plants
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GreenGenez421

Active Member
The 2 GG autos with be sowed indirectly into the raised bed. Im not expecting alot from them but I always like to get at least 1 Autoflower going first in a newly amended substrate. Hopefully the bed has cycled nutrient long enough and they take root with ease. If not and they burn up ill let the bed cycle for another 2 weeks before I put the photo strains in.

When I say "indirectly" I mean in a solo cup with the bottom cut off. Autoflowers should not be transplanted to another pot or container. Some same that the tap root will decend into the soil and once it hits the bottom, then the plant will start to flower. I can't confirm this but really who cares. All I do know is that autos do best sowed into their final container and never transplanted because transplanting can cause stress. Autos have such a short vegetative phase that any stress can cause a significant loss in final yield.
But as I first said, these are for the primary purpose of determining whether or not the substrate has cycled enough and isn't to "HOT" for the photos.
Mother Nature does what she wants and will never be rushed. Fingers crossed
 
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