DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes

coopersheldon

coopersheldon

Well-Known Member
jensen71 said:
Can tap water be used to sterlize and rinse out all the root rot that may be hiding in the grow medium in lieu of peroxide? So far my roots are stringy and hairy and white and fuzzy at the tips but the root mass above those tips are dirty with some sort of brown/black stuff which is discoloring the root somewhat. I was thinking of using chlorinated water to do a quick flush out of the net pots with the plants in there before moving it to a bucket with peroxide to let soak overnight at 15ml per gal. Ill run 5 drops of bleach in each bucket then start the system up; hopefully the soak will clear up the brown/black pasty gunk latched on to the hairs of my roots. If it doesn't what should i do? My PH has been up to 7.2-7.5 all day long so I've used distilled vinegar to bring the ph down to 5.9. That's why im thinking its more wide spread, the PH on my rdwc keeps spiking up to 7.2-7.5.
Click to expand...

have you any photos? kind of sounds like you have new growth coming out of an existing problem?

i would fill the system with water (with h202) let it run over night. then i would full replace the res with a EWC tea.
what sort of water temps are we talking? do you have any light leaks? ANY.
 
dungeontrees

dungeontrees

Member
image.jpg
Heisenberg said:
Sure. In fact, many of the organisms in the tea do not even activate in the hydro solution. And a soil environment will sustain them much longer, so you don't need to add it as often.
Click to expand...
Thanks much for the response! I did use it in my DWC set up an it worked great. You saved my life an the life of my plants i used SOS ( super organic stimulator ), orca, great white, an ewc, so im thinking about making more and useing it on both my soil plants an my hydro plants soil to the left an old an new hydro on the right as u can see 2 of my dro plants got stunted for too long so i hate to say it im not even caring about em cuz their long gone im gonna pull em today an i got 2 other babies to go in their place. Thanks for quick answer. The only bad part of this that happened to me, an i think it was cuz it was so hot outside during the makin of the tea i made 2 gallons an ended with just about 1.5 gallons so i think .5 evaporated from the heat.
 
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dungeontrees

dungeontrees

Member
Heisenberg said:
Sure. In fact, many of the organisms in the tea do not even activate in the hydro solution. And a soil environment will sustain them much longer, so you don't need to add it as often.
Click to expand...
Does it matter where your res is when adding the tea? Interms of PPMs, or PH, an is there a better time of day to add it like either in tha AM or PM. At any point is it ok to add Hygrozyme or will that just defeat the purpose?
 
jensen71

jensen71

Well-Known Member
So here is my problem illustrated and it appears to be getting worse.
20151013_125505.png

20151013_125519.png
I feel like Stu (from the Hangover Part 2). WTF is GOING ON!?!?!??!

This is after 6 weeks of vegetation. I'm using AN root tribe with Bud Candy. I supplemented this with H&G Excelerator, Seaweed Extract, B52, Sensi Cal Mag extra, Hydroguard. I gave it a day, the slime got worse. I don't want to lose this plant, the other sister clone is half its size but making a come back despite the brown slime. So this is my plan with a few questions to anyone out there:

For my 2 bucket RDWC active waterfall system:

First the net pots--
1) Remove net pots from buckets and place into a 2 gallon bucket.
2) Take some 3% Hydrogen Peroxide and pour over hydrotons surrounding the plant since most of the rooting is coming through at bottom edges of netpot. Spray the roots with a similar solution.
3) Flush the hydrotons and H202 fried brown algae lurking in them with tap water conditioned with SeaChem's Amguard, should fill up to 2 inches above net pot).
4) Add in 5mL per Gallon of H202, the 29% stuff, into the bucket and soak the net pot root zone, stir/swirl the mix and then let soak for 10 minutes.
QUESTION1: how long should I let it soak for?
QUESTION2: what is the best way to break up the sludge still sticking to her roots?
5) Put net pot in sterile bucket with base nute water and calmag and dutchmaster zone. Let it sit with bubbles using sterilized diffusers (see below in Step 7)

Now, flush the system, sterilize it and kill off anything else remaining.
6) Add 1 ml of Clorox per Gallon and run the system in its entirety.
7) Wipe the sides of the buckets with a scouring pad and shake the diffusers as the system runs.
8) Dump the dead algae water in the bath tub or down the sink.
9) Add more conditioned water and repeat steps 6-8. Then, do a final flush and drain.
10) Add conditioned water and perform a 2 day Erythromycin treatment (1 API packet should treat 12 gallons, so use about 50 ml of the Erythromycin packets for each bucket holding 3 gallon reservoirs for a 2 day period).
QUESTION 3: For those of you who have used antibiotics before, how long do they stay active for? Can you flush them out of the system once your are through with them or do you have to nuke the water again to kill the antibiotic?
11) Add more conditioned water and repeat steps 6-8. Then, do a final flush and drain.
12) Now add fresh RO water and the same nute mix listed above in Step 5.
13) Transfer the diffusers and net pots over to the system.
14) Check pH & PPM & TDS. Correct pH to 5.5 using GH's phDown.
15) Check every day for any signs of brown slime returning.
16) Brew some tea using MycoGrow Soluble per Heisenberg's instruction (This has most everything I need rather than going to AN's root tribe and Hydroguard).
17) Check every day for any signs of brown slime returning.
QUESTION 4: Am I missing anything else?
18) Oh I forgot to add, I've painted over some extra buckets i had lying around with black primer and a white plastidrip coating. These will replace the existing translucent orange buckets.
19) When the plants start showing signs of improvement, then slowly add additional additives (B52&Seaweed Extract) to nute solution.
QUESTION 5: Is DWC better than RDWC for flowering?
Would appreciate any thoughts. Thanks!
 
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Heisenberg

Heisenberg

Well-Known Member
dungeontrees said:
Does it matter where your res is when adding the tea? Interms of PPMs, or PH, an is there a better time of day to add it like either in tha AM or PM. At any point is it ok to add Hygrozyme or will that just defeat the purpose?
Click to expand...
Nope, don't worry about when you add it. I'm sure there is a time when it's most optimal, but the difference would be negligible. Hygrozyme is likely to cause problems. You can try it in a test bucket if you want, but I'd stay away from it.
 
Heisenberg

Heisenberg

Well-Known Member
jensen71 said:
So here is my problem illustrated and it appears to be getting worse.
View attachment 3521052

View attachment 3521053
I feel like Stu (from the Hangover Part 2). WTF is GOING ON!?!?!??!

This is after 6 weeks of vegetation. I'm using AN root tribe with Bud Candy. I supplemented this with H&G Excelerator, Seaweed Extract, B52, Sensi Cal Mag extra, Hydroguard. I gave it a day, the slime got worse. I don't want to lose this plant, the other sister clone is half its size but making a come back despite the brown slime. So this is my plan with a few questions to anyone out there:

For my 2 bucket RDWC active waterfall system:

First the net pots--
1) Remove net pots from buckets and place into a 2 gallon bucket.
2) Take some 3% Hydrogen Peroxide and pour over hydrotons surrounding the plant since most of the rooting is coming through at bottom edges of netpot. Spray the roots with a similar solution.
3) Flush the hydrotons and H202 fried brown algae lurking in them with tap water conditioned with SeaChem's Amguard, should fill up to 2 inches above net pot).
4) Add in 5mL per Gallon of H202, the 29% stuff, into the bucket and soak the net pot root zone, stir/swirl the mix and then let soak for 10 minutes.
QUESTION1: how long should I let it soak for?
QUESTION2: what is the best way to break up the sludge still sticking to her roots?
5) Put net pot in sterile bucket with base nute water and calmag and dutchmaster zone. Let it sit with bubbles using sterilized diffusers (see below in Step 7)

Now, flush the system, sterilize it and kill off anything else remaining.
6) Add 1 ml of Clorox per Gallon and run the system in its entirety.
7) Wipe the sides of the buckets with a scouring pad and shake the diffusers as the system runs.
8) Dump the dead algae water in the bath tub or down the sink.
9) Add more conditioned water and repeat steps 6-8. Then, do a final flush and drain.
10) Add conditioned water and perform a 2 day Erythromycin treatment (1 API packet should treat 12 gallons, so use about 50 ml of the Erythromycin packets for each bucket holding 3 gallon reservoirs for a 2 day period).
QUESTION 3: For those of you who have used antibiotics before, how long do they stay active for? Can you flush them out of the system once your are through with them or do you have to nuke the water again to kill the antibiotic?
11) Add more conditioned water and repeat steps 6-8. Then, do a final flush and drain.
12) Now add fresh RO water and the same nute mix listed above in Step 5.
13) Transfer the diffusers and net pots over to the system.
14) Check pH & PPM & TDS. Correct pH to 5.5 using GH's phDown.
15) Check every day for any signs of brown slime returning.
16) Brew some tea using MycoGrow Soluble per Heisenberg's instruction (This has most everything I need rather than going to AN's root tribe and Hydroguard).
17) Check every day for any signs of brown slime returning.
QUESTION 4: Am I missing anything else?
18) Oh I forgot to add, I've painted over some extra buckets i had lying around with black primer and a white plastidrip coating. These will replace the existing translucent orange buckets.
19) When the plants start showing signs of improvement, then slowly add additional additives (B52&Seaweed Extract) to nute solution.
QUESTION 5: Is DWC better than RDWC for flowering?
Would appreciate any thoughts. Thanks!
Click to expand...
It is my experience that using h202 will prolong your recovery. If it were me, I would spray those buckets/roots off in the shower and remove as much as possible, and then just make up a normal bucket with some tea. (just base nutes and tea) If you have the basics covered (oxygen, temp ect) then that should do the trick. Sterilizing them first makes sense, which is why I used to do it, but apparently nature herself feels differently. I would also drop the rest of that crap unless your plants tell you they need it.
 
dungeontrees

dungeontrees

Member
Heisenberg said:
Nope, don't worry about when you add it. I'm sure there is a time when it's most optimal, but the difference would be negligible. Hygrozyme is likely to cause problems. You can try it in a test bucket if you want, but I'd stay away from it.
Click to expand...
Thanks


jensen71 said:
So here is my problem illustrated and it appears to be getting worse.
View attachment 3521052

View attachment 3521053
I feel like Stu (from the Hangover Part 2). WTF is GOING ON!?!?!??!

This is after 6 weeks of vegetation. I'm using AN root tribe with Bud Candy. I supplemented this with H&G Excelerator, Seaweed Extract, B52, Sensi Cal Mag extra, Hydroguard. I gave it a day, the slime got worse. I don't want to lose this plant, the other sister clone is half its size but making a come back despite the brown slime. So this is my plan with a few questions to anyone out there:

For my 2 bucket RDWC active waterfall system:

First the net pots--
1) Remove net pots from buckets and place into a 2 gallon bucket.
2) Take some 3% Hydrogen Peroxide and pour over hydrotons surrounding the plant since most of the rooting is coming through at bottom edges of netpot. Spray the roots with a similar solution.
3) Flush the hydrotons and H202 fried brown algae lurking in them with tap water conditioned with SeaChem's Amguard, should fill up to 2 inches above net pot).
4) Add in 5mL per Gallon of H202, the 29% stuff, into the bucket and soak the net pot root zone, stir/swirl the mix and then let soak for 10 minutes.
QUESTION1: how long should I let it soak for?
QUESTION2: what is the best way to break up the sludge still sticking to her roots?
5) Put net pot in sterile bucket with base nute water and calmag and dutchmaster zone. Let it sit with bubbles using sterilized diffusers (see below in Step 7)

Now, flush the system, sterilize it and kill off anything else remaining.
6) Add 1 ml of Clorox per Gallon and run the system in its entirety.
7) Wipe the sides of the buckets with a scouring pad and shake the diffusers as the system runs.
8) Dump the dead algae water in the bath tub or down the sink.
9) Add more conditioned water and repeat steps 6-8. Then, do a final flush and drain.
10) Add conditioned water and perform a 2 day Erythromycin treatment (1 API packet should treat 12 gallons, so use about 50 ml of the Erythromycin packets for each bucket holding 3 gallon reservoirs for a 2 day period).
QUESTION 3: For those of you who have used antibiotics before, how long do they stay active for? Can you flush them out of the system once your are through with them or do you have to nuke the water again to kill the antibiotic?
11) Add more conditioned water and repeat steps 6-8. Then, do a final flush and drain.
12) Now add fresh RO water and the same nute mix listed above in Step 5.
13) Transfer the diffusers and net pots over to the system.
14) Check pH & PPM & TDS. Correct pH to 5.5 using GH's phDown.
15) Check every day for any signs of brown slime returning.
16) Brew some tea using MycoGrow Soluble per Heisenberg's instruction (This has most everything I need rather than going to AN's root tribe and Hydroguard).
17) Check every day for any signs of brown slime returning.
QUESTION 4: Am I missing anything else?
18) Oh I forgot to add, I've painted over some extra buckets i had lying around with black primer and a white plastidrip coating. These will replace the existing translucent orange buckets.
19) When the plants start showing signs of improvement, then slowly add additional additives (B52&Seaweed Extract) to nute solution.
QUESTION 5: Is DWC better than RDWC for flowering?
Would appreciate any thoughts. Thanks!
Click to expand...
This looks like the rot, makea da tea! (Unless u did an got problems from it )
 
jensen71

jensen71

Well-Known Member
Heisenberg said:
It is my experience that using h202 will prolong your recovery. If it were me, I would spray those buckets/roots off in the shower and remove as much as possible, and then just make up a normal bucket with some tea. (just base nutes and tea) If you have the basics covered (oxygen, temp ect) then that should do the trick. Sterilizing them first makes sense, which is why I used to do it, but apparently nature herself feels differently. I would also drop the rest of that crap unless your plants tell you they need it.
Click to expand...
Well, im waiting for the mycogrow soluble to come in the mail. I'm just feeling weary with all the brown algae crap in both buckets and on the netpots and sludging up the underside of the netpot. My temps are a little on the high side, 72-82 during darkness and up to 76-86 during light. I have to create an AC vent into the grow room so that Ill have cooler temps. Plus, I need to throw some reflective material on the net pot lids and have a better exhaust system in place, that should help somewhat. I also have the plants about 30 inches (for the large one) and 20 inches (for the small one) away from the 250w MH light which runs at 7200K (I moved the light up about 14 inches from where it was originally). Hopefully, Ill get some lower temps though I was hoping to get more light intensity with the light closer. Can't invest in a chiller yet.
 
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jensen71

jensen71

Well-Known Member
dungeontrees said:
Thanks




This looks like the rot, makea da tea! (Unless u did an got problems from it )
Click to expand...
Yea, that damn cyano ate up all the bud candy and absorbed bad ammonia from tap water that wasn't conditioned properly. I originally flushed it out with H2O2 and then reloaded not realizing that there was slime in the root zone so this time I washed it out using HOT tap water and a lot of the sludge came off in the shower. I rinsed the hydroton and plant roots with the hot tap water and moved them to their own DWC buckets which were sterilized with Clorox. There isn't that much sludge anymore just root staining where remaining bacteria latched on to the root. Im going to load up on RO water today so that will be handy in another couple of days as im expecting another outbreak but not as bad as the last one. The water I flushed out 3 times with clorox was plagued with dead algae so my RDWC is fucked. I KNOW there is still some hiding in the return pvc piping to the intake on the water pump but im going to let the system run on Clorox to clean out the pipes and clean out the water pumps and hope my mycogrow soluble gets here in the next few days. My blackstrap unsulfured molasses is looking to wake up the bennies that are enroute. If these plants make it to flowering, I want to make sure my water pump is clear to drain the reservoirs since I don't have hydrofarm hosing kits set up on my DWC buckets. I've already put a white flooring to mask light and heat from the black parts of the buckets. Now I gotta figure out where im gonna make some holes in the walls of my grow space for the exhaust system.

I've got one more question, I think the air pump at times gets really hot which is another source of heat for the high nute temps which the algae thrive in. Can I cool the air pump using ice paks or do i have to settle with a fan pointing right at the back of it? I don't have any organics in the 2 dwc buckets, just base nutes, calmag and DutchMasters Zone which im hoping will condition the roots synthetically for the next few days and which the algae wont be able to absorb.. PH'd to 5.5 and iced down to 72. Off to a good start so far though I can still smell a little bit of stagnate water slime algae stank. in the bigger plant. My PPM is at ~650 in both buckets. At least maintenance on these will be easier now that I got rid of 3 flushes worth of dark dead algae after bombing the system with Clorox.
 
dungeontrees

dungeontrees

Member
jensen71 said:
Yea, that damn cyano ate up all the bud candy and absorbed bad ammonia from tap water that wasn't conditioned properly. I originally flushed it out with H2O2 and then reloaded not realizing that there was slime in the root zone so this time I washed it out using HOT tap water and a lot of the sludge came off in the shower. I rinsed the hydroton and plant roots with the hot tap water and moved them to their own DWC buckets which were sterilized with Clorox. There isn't that much sludge anymore just root staining where remaining bacteria latched on to the root. Im going to load up on RO water today so that will be handy in another couple of days as im expecting another outbreak but not as bad as the last one. The water I flushed out 3 times with clorox was plagued with dead algae so my RDWC is fucked. I KNOW there is still some hiding in the return pvc piping to the intake on the water pump but im going to let the system run on Clorox to clean out the pipes and clean out the water pumps and hope my mycogrow soluble gets here in the next few days. My blackstrap unsulfured molasses is looking to wake up the bennies that are enroute. If these plants make it to flowering, I want to make sure my water pump is clear to drain the reservoirs since I don't have hydrofarm hosing kits set up on my DWC buckets. I've already put a white flooring to mask light and heat from the black parts of the buckets. Now I gotta figure out where im gonna make some holes in the walls of my grow space for the exhaust system.

I've got one more question, I think the air pump at times gets really hot which is another source of heat for the high nute temps which the algae thrive in. Can I cool the air pump using ice paks or do i have to settle with a fan pointing right at the back of it? I don't have any organics in the 2 dwc buckets, just base nutes, calmag and DutchMasters Zone which im hoping will condition the roots synthetically for the next few days and which the algae wont be able to absorb.. PH'd to 5.5 and iced down to 72. Off to a good start so far though I can still smell a little bit of stagnate water slime algae stank. in the bigger plant. My PPM is at ~650 in both buckets. At least maintenance on these will be easier now that I got rid of 3 flushes worth of dark dead algae after bombing the system with Clorox.
Click to expand...
If u have an industrial pump just shoot a 6" fan on it an that will cool it. I know that from experience. If u wanna get a more quieter pump with 4 outlets ebay has em for $20-$25 i grabed one myself but the industrial does pump a ton more air thats why i like to use it. Ice packs will work too but they need changing out every few hrs. Good Luck!
 
dungeontrees

dungeontrees

Member
Heisenberg said:
It is my experience that using h202 will prolong your recovery. If it were me, I would spray those buckets/roots off in the shower and remove as much as possible, and then just make up a normal bucket with some tea. (just base nutes and tea) If you have the basics covered (oxygen, temp ect) then that should do the trick. Sterilizing them first makes sense, which is why I used to do it, but apparently nature herself feels differently. I would also drop the rest of that crap unless your plants tell you they need it.
Click to expand...
I think u answered this question in the above paragraph. Its ok to mix my nutes with the tea in the same bottle right?
 
dungeontrees

dungeontrees

Member
Ok so i made the tea an put it in my res, tha plants sprouted brand new glowing white roots an the plants that had yellow leaves grew a bit an the leaves are mostly green again. Now it seems as tho the growth slowed an i guage that from the new seedlings that share the same res with the older plants so useing the tea was to fix the root rot the older plants had an a precautionary measure for the younger plants. The older ones i dont really care about cuz they been stunted for way too long but now their fine its the younger plants im more worried about.
 
dungeontrees

dungeontrees

Member
Last questions; how many times can i use the EWC? cuz i put mine into a stocking so not much gets into the water but its enough for the tea!
When my roots dont have the slime/rot do i need to change out my res cuz i only change my res in a run about 2-3 times but all the while adding/topping it off with fresh water. Now if i top up my res 3 times what it is then i know i need a change. So if i toped up 9-10 gallons of water its time for a change cuz i use 5gal buckets with 3-4gals of water.
 
jensen71

jensen71

Well-Known Member
Has anyone ever seen green algae on rockwool used to start a clone? Is this a good or a bad thing? Ive got 4 new clones started in 3" netpots in a 3 gallon bucket and 2 other ones in netpots layered by hydroton in red party cups so they are isolated from the other 2 teens that I moved out of RDWC to DWC. Speaking of which, the runt of my first pair of clones is doing well despite getting all of its roots chopped off and the under side of the net pot wiped clear. The big sister isn't fairing too well, half of her root mass is gone after getting flushed with hot water and getting most of the rot cleared out. She lost 1/3 of her foliage, probably due to shock. I got the mycogrow today and its percolatin and bubblin for the next 45 hours. Hopefully shell make it through the wait on the tea. Incidentally, I found the source of bad bacteria. They were coating the inside of the return lines from each bucket and were caked on the inside of the pipes. After all the system flushes with H202 and Clorox usin hot water, there was still gunk hiding in the system. So once the tea is ready, I can pour over the net pots rather than adding to each bucket right?
 
dungeontrees

dungeontrees

Member
jensen71 said:
Has anyone ever seen green algae on rockwool used to start a clone? Is this a good or a bad thing? Ive got 4 new clones started in 3" netpots in a 3 gallon bucket and 2 other ones in netpots layered by hydroton in red party cups so they are isolated from the other 2 teens that I moved out of RDWC to DWC. Speaking of which, the runt of my first pair of clones is doing well despite getting all of its roots chopped off and the under side of the net pot wiped clear. The big sister isn't fairing too well, half of her root mass is gone after getting flushed with hot water and getting most of the rot cleared out. She lost 1/3 of her foliage, probably due to shock. I got the mycogrow today and its percolatin and bubblin for the next 45 hours. Hopefully shell make it through the wait on the tea. Incidentally, I found the source of bad bacteria. They were coating the inside of the return lines from each bucket and were caked on the inside of the pipes. After all the system flushes with H202 and Clorox usin hot water, there was still gunk hiding in the system. So once the tea is ready, I can pour over the net pots rather than adding to each bucket right?
Click to expand...
Yea that algae is from the light hitting the rockwhool if u getnsom type of cover for it an pull off the green as best as u can then cover.
 
fishdeth

fishdeth

Well-Known Member
dungeontrees said:
Last questions; how many times can i use the EWC? cuz i put mine into a stocking so not much gets into the water but its enough for the tea!
When my roots dont have the slime/rot do i need to change out my res cuz i only change my res in a run about 2-3 times but all the while adding/topping it off with fresh water. Now if i top up my res 3 times what it is then i know i need a change. So if i toped up 9-10 gallons of water its time for a change cuz i use 5gal buckets with 3-4gals of water.
Click to expand...
You should change your res every 7 - 10 days.
I do mine every 7.
I brew a TEA :
I put a good handful of Earth Worm Castings (poop) into a knee high nylon stocking and rubber band that to a large round flat air stone.
Drop that into 2 gallons of water and add some Aquashield, GH Sub Culture "B" (Beneficial bacteria) and "M" (Mycorrhizal fungi) and just bubble it (heavily) for 48 hrs and they breed and multiply.
Now you have a concentrated Tea that you add about a cup or so per gallon at res change.
They will die off naturally, so every couple days I will add a bit more, about 1/2 cup per gallon.
My box is air conditioned and my soup stays at 70 degrees.
I have no problems with slime, I use the bennies more for their symbiotic relationship with the plant, specifically the roots.
The roots power the plant.
Every time I add the fresh tea, you can see the explosion of roots AND foliage.
 
jensen71

jensen71

Well-Known Member
My biggest plant has been losing leaf after leaf. There was still some slime stuck on her roots so I prepared a Clorox root bath and vigorously shook the slime off and then put her back in her tub and fed her some tea I made with just the MycoGrow Soluble with Blackstrap unsulphered molasses along with some Seaweed Extract, B52, CalMag and some base nutes, SensiGrowA+B which was percolating for 24 hours. So I added about 2 cups to her bucket. The next day, she was still percolating which added another 24 hours of benny growth to the solution. I added 2 cups of this to each of 2 buckets and a tray of 6 new clones im using as my backup in case something horribly goes wrong. And BAM! new foliage growth on everything and some of the shriveled leaves rehydrated. They looked hella fried but they are raising themselves toward the light rather than praying to likely death. I am abandoning Excellurator -- last time I ever take Big Mike's word about how much better it is than any of AN's root stims. The only good thing I've used from AN is the voodoo juice during this vege. And it took a few days for it to kick in but by then, the slime took over in the root zone, the bottom and sides of the tub, the damn air diffusers, and yes, even the return lines. But tea, it most definitely works. Thank you Heisenberg. The basics of your tea helped save my largest teen in vege and she is making a comeback. I' m still waiting on ZHO and worm castings to add to the recipe. Can I add these 2 anytime after the 48 hour mark or do I need to add them at the time of making the tea? Do any of you know why Excellurator is not appropriate for bubbly environments? Can you recommend a root stim that is? Thanks!
 
dungeontrees

dungeontrees

Member
jensen71 said:
My biggest plant has been losing leaf after leaf. There was still some slime stuck on her roots so I prepared a Clorox root bath and vigorously shook the slime off and then put her back in her tub and fed her some tea I made with just the MycoGrow Soluble with Blackstrap unsulphered molasses along with some Seaweed Extract, B52, CalMag and some base nutes, SensiGrowA+B which was percolating for 24 hours. So I added about 2 cups to her bucket. The next day, she was still percolating which added another 24 hours of benny growth to the solution. I added 2 cups of this to each of 2 buckets and a tray of 6 new clones im using as my backup in case something horribly goes wrong. And BAM! new foliage growth on everything and some of the shriveled leaves rehydrated. They looked hella fried but they are raising themselves toward the light rather than praying to likely death. I am abandoning Excellurator -- last time I ever take Big Mike's word about how much better it is than any of AN's root stims. The only good thing I've used from AN is the voodoo juice during this vege. And it took a few days for it to kick in but by then, the slime took over in the root zone, the bottom and sides of the tub, the damn air diffusers, and yes, even the return lines. But tea, it most definitely works. Thank you Heisenberg. The basics of your tea helped save my largest teen in vege and she is making a comeback. I' m still waiting on ZHO and worm castings to add to the recipe. Can I add these 2 anytime after the 48 hour mark or do I need to add them at the time of making the tea? Do any of you know why Excellurator is not appropriate for bubbly environments? Can you recommend a root stim that is? Thanks!
Click to expand...
Thats a great idea to make the tea with ferts mixed in, when useing it as a preventative measure.
 
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