I got five 648s in, some of the last ones on the whole internet that I can see, unfortunately, and I'll be hooking them up in the next few days in the garden using two 320H-C2800ABs for each bank of two and the existing 120H-54A for the center piece. I have a 2.5x5.5 area that is currently being vegged with one Bspec on the 120 driver and two 6500k T5s on the side of it. I've got a few peppers growing just from the Bspec itself, so I'll find out how to safely post photos here when it's all done. Please pray for me that I am not one of those people that cannot hook up three conductors to the right place per bank of two boards in series and experience catastrophic failure. I still do not understand how the 648 issue is any worse than the 288 kits. I suspect people still blow their 288s, but since it costs more money and time to get 648s in, maybe that's why they were discontinued.
DIY with Quantum Boards
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
pop22
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info man. Forgive this old person for asking (cue steve buscemi with skateboard and backwards hat, "why hello there fellow kids"), but if I were to make a bank of two, wouldn't I just rotate the bottom board 180 degrees and place it to the left of the top board in the series on the diagram, making sure the left one is "upside down" looking at it straight on and the right one is "rightside up" as is? Is there anything I need to know about the 648s that doesn't apply to the same wiring that Rspecs do? I believe a poster said that it's the exact same, but I will definitely post what I wire up here for confirmation before I fire it up. The last thing I want is to bother HLG with boomer crap and want to make for certain I do everything possible to not need a warranty.
bobbuck
Well-Known Member
Trying out some Qb132s. I did a rough wiring to see how 4 qb132 would react on a hlg-185h-c1050. How do i get the molex connectors to release the wire? I was kinda blinded when I tried , but it felt like i was going to damage the connector. Any help would be appreciated . Thankx
PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
pop22
Well-Known Member
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
And I recommend a small Flathead screwdriver to use in that slot.
TheSadBadGrower
Well-Known Member
I was using little flathead screwdrivers for glasses when I built mine...sure wish I seen this thread prior. Was a bitch wiring mine up but I also dont know shit about it either...DIY FTW....
BlackmoreRulz
Active Member
Are those QB18's ever going to be available again?
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Series means starting positive wire to positive lead of a board then connecting however many boards with negative to positive connections. Final board leaves you with an open negative which goes to the driver.
That's what I thought. I am wiring two 648s from a single 320H-C2800AB. I think for certain this is correct, but can you guys confirm this is the correct way so I don't annoy Steve with any more damn warranty complaints? I really don't understand why people were blowing their boards when there is reference material. I really appreciate you pointing me towards the 140mm fans Airwalker, good stuff. My Bspec is ridiculously cool with those and the TIM.
Last edited:
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Looks good
cobshopgrow
Well-Known Member
looks cool, any idea why some leds apear to be so dim?
TheSadBadGrower
Well-Known Member
I had those turned down but also some you cant see with the naked eye. Our eyes dont see certain spectrums.
cobshopgrow
Well-Known Member
i see, so you have some white led only and some with monos combined there.
still wonder a bit why the whites on the "combined" strips are so unequal lit, but its may just the picture angle color temp or else.
still wonder a bit why the whites on the "combined" strips are so unequal lit, but its may just the picture angle color temp or else.
bobbuck
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I found that diagram last night. I'll give it a shot today
TheSadBadGrower
Well-Known Member
yea different color temps. Some are like 2700 and other were like 6000 something. I forget the specs off hand. Going to be adding these dimmers on the lights too. Waiting for it to arrive.
Premium Quality Commercial Grade Grow Room Dimming Controller For LEDs. Controls any 0-10V LED Driver With Dimming Ability. Dims To Off. - - Amazon.com
Premium Quality Commercial Grade Grow Room Dimming Controller For LEDs. Controls any 0-10V LED Driver With Dimming Ability. Dims To Off. - - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
sfw1960
Well-Known Member
Yep, good call.
Series:
Plus to minus until the circuit is complete, voltage is additive. (I.E. 54+54 VDC = 108 VDC for 2 panels)
The current is a constant flow value for each board.
Parallel:
Plus connected together.
Minus connected together.
Voltage is commonly shared (All 54 VDC)
Common to each polarity output, drive current "should be" divided equally between boards.
Series is generally preferred for this reason to prevent one board drawing more than another...
Thank you for reiterating this and drilling it into our heads. Even professionals make mistakes sometimes, so it's important to internalize this so we don't have mishaps. Thankfully this amateur double checked, you guys are the best. Also hit the 648s with the infrared thermometer, I'm reading about 32ish C at lower power at the diodes(~210 watts) after a few hours with TIM and no fan yet. I'll take some more readings to share in case anyone is interested at different power levels.Yep, good call.
Series:
Plus to minus until the circuit is complete, voltage is additive. (I.E. 54+54 VDC = 108 VDC for 2 panels)
The current is a constant flow value for each board.
Parallel:
Plus connected together.
Minus connected together.
Voltage is commonly shared (All 54 VDC)
Common to each polarity output, drive current "should be" divided equally between boards.
Series is generally preferred for this reason to prevent one board drawing more than another...
I am still trying to wrap my head around the reverse polarity issues, and I would bet my life's savings that it's human error and not an issue with HLG or Samsung. Amazing to me that HLG is accepting the warranty claims, definitely a solid company from the ground up.