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Hi ledfan2, If you use Ideal brand COB holders, they are only rated for 250V. I have the HLG120H-C350 and it will drive 12 36V COBs in series but that would require soldering wire to the solder pads on the ceramic square. (Unless there is another holder I don't know about.) Edit: for slightly...

This site should have an index of the LED/COB RIU advertisers like timber. For ready-made, I like Rahz' tastyled.com designs.

But in defense of 6061 aluminum, it is a better alloy structurally [from onlinemetals.com]: 6061 Aluminum is, by most any measure, the most commonly used aluminum alloy. It is specified in most any application due to its strength, heat treatability, comparatively easy machining, and...

Looks OK to me. Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician nor an engineer.

The new Tasty color scheme makes me want to anodize my heatsinkUSA 3.945 profiles candy apple red.

Someone at another forum was wondering how difficult these are to assemble. I said it's quite easy for someone who has built model kits and computers. I threw together a pictorial showing crimp and solder methods (I prefer the solder and heatshrink for reliability).

My overall impression of LumiGrow is that it was a good company wrecked by venture capital. They do have UL rating now and I'm guessing that gets them into some big commercial, insured grow operations. The two newest versions of mine are UL listed but they dry out my plants due to the airflow...

It was a Lumigrow Pro 325 (x 4) setup, the new HBG light was just hung at the end. The 3000K light is noticeably yellow compared to the blue/white/red Lumigrow diodes. I'm adding a 36V 5000K COB to a pair of 72V 3000K's for my current build, a 225W bar. The vegetation looked very healthy...

A connector set would be the most convenient method. Here in the US, I had to order M5 X 20mm spacers from Grainger, an industrial supplier. I have no experience with thermal pads and haven't researched them. I'm not much of a bench technician but various thermal greases have always worked...

Supra hasn't posted here since March 11th. Hoping all is well . . . and thanks for all the fish!

I don't really know, rob. The marketing sheet is touting a small LES as a being a good thing--and it would be, for certain applications.

I'd prefer a large LES area.

The sink must be for testing IP65, IP67 conformance.

I think 100% will be fine. The CXB3070 is a good series for the money (in my opinion) and while they can't handle high current like the CXA/B3590's, they should be fine for temperature on the ModuLED Mega heatsink, 100mm in length. As I said before, I'm not familiar with the Mega series but...

In circuit, the driver will be outputting whatever total forward voltage the diodes add up to. Setting the pot at 90% will be fine. Are there calibration marks on the dial? My units are all assembled now.

As an update to the ModuLED Giga series heatsink, two out of ten samples had a washboard surface across the COB area. I didn't do anything to correct it but I can see the quality problem that someone here wasn't happy about. I'm not sure what the manufacturing process is, small striations are...

Hi tr909, Each COB and driver varies a little bit but if you turn the pot full CW a Kill-a-Watt meter usually reads just over 60W from the wall. It was only one combination of driver and COB that yielded 65W, as I recall. The driver is about 90% efficient so 54W goes to the COB. I'll guess...

Parts are sometimes held in a vise for surface grinding, especially with custom aluminum jaws.

Rahz, I've spent countless hours flattening/trying to flatten heatsinkusa parts. The last effort was a 4x24" vintage commercial Craftsman belt sander with a bunch of grits I bought from Zoro.com. Problem is, a grit heavy enough to break down the high shoulders drags debris through the low...