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I think the HLG 600 is a bit excessive for a 3x3' space but we all have our own preferences I suppose :). If you haven't already decided, why not take a look at our Q7? It's a dual panel QB where both panels are independently adjustable. The lamp uses Samsung 301H diodes and 320W Mean Well...

If you already have a good light setup, it seems to me that it's a waste to get rid of it. Why not just add supplemental light to match the increase in grow area? Strips and QBs have a more even coverage than COBs with lower hotspots but if you've gotten used to COBs and already have a good...

I agree partially with budman111, here above. A lux meter helps you get the light intensity right as your plants are able to handle higher intensity (PPFD) as they mature and the photoperiod is reduced to 12 hours. However, I do not agree with the different light intensities (different lux...

Cannabis plants grow fine outdoors in the wild where the light constantly changes. Clouds, rainy days, storms, etc. A few hours with less light during their seedling phase won't hurt them.

I'm sure there are other growers on this forum more experienced with Kingbrite lamps so I won't comment on the model-specific questions. 1. Sidelight is a nice addition to over-light. I would first do a grow without any additional lights as I think you'll see decent results with 240W in an 8 sq...

Added CO2 has low benefits unless your light intensity is high, around 800+ PPFD. I'm not sure how those lights perform but if you consult their PPFD maps you should be able to find out if the lamps emit a high enough intensity that justifies adding CO2.

Hey. Floodlights usually work like COBs, i.e. they will emit very intense light but over a small area. If you turn them on in a dark room and aim them on a wall, you'll see the light footprint from the floodlight being very, very bright in the center spot but a foot away the intensity is a...

Hey! 3500 Kelvin is indeed the spectrum generally recommended for full cycle grows. Most growers prefer a higher Kelvin (4000K, 5000K) with more blue light during veg and a bit lower Kelvin (~3000K) with more red during flowering. 3500K is a good compromise that works well full cycle. I would...

Whenever I see garbage/misleading info like this by a brand, the red flags are flashing for me: I know a lot of people have seen good results with Kingbrite, and it's difficult to go wrong with a Samsung 301H 3500K diode dominant board, but when companies are either this uneducated or just...

I was going to comment something along the lines of what Teknik said but the main point has already been expressed. I think at first glance the Chinese have done a decent job of presenting their product, although their presentation and reality are likely very different. I can't speak to its...

Mixing lamps with different spectrums won't harm your plants. The photons (light) from the two lamps will mix as they fall from the lamps towards your plants. It's the final spectrum that the leaves receive that the plants care about. Supplementing a BLURPLE (blue/red) light with another lamp...

Looks solid :). Are you able to measure the light footprint and light intensity with a quantum sensor or lux meter once the build is complete?

Well, in Spider's listing they say 2.5g/watt so surely that must be true. No, but on a serious note, as Ben said, your yield will depend on lots of factors that differ from grower to grower. A beginner grower can't possibly master all aspects of growing that a seasoned grower has learned...

Well hello there :) https://www.ledtonic.com/products/q2-led-grow-light We made a bulb panel type grow light called the Q2. It's fitted with 96 Samsung LM561C diodes and runs at 36W. We have 1-packs ($55) in three different CCTs, 3000K, 3500K, and 4000K and 2-pack ($99) with 3500K. Would be...

Hey. I'm not a fan of either brand as they have made a habit of inflating their numbers and data. The Spider draws 100w and uses high efficacy Samsung diodes while the Mars draws 150W and uses low efficacy diodes. The 150W with low efficacy diodes (very) roughly translates to 100W with good...

Hey, thanks for the questions. I'll answer them here but I'd like to invite you to message us directly if you later have any follow-up question as to not hijack this thread from OP. When we designed the Q7, one of our dilemmas was whether or not to use heatsinks. The pros with a heatsink is...

I second the above two comments. Inventronics definitely make good drivers. If you're still looking for other options then I suggest you look at the specs of whichever brand you're considering. The power factor (efficacy) of the driver is important. I believe most MeanWell HLG versions operate...

No, I realize you didn't accuse me of anything, I was just trying to be as clear and transparent as I possibly could. This was in no way meant as a peak to you. From my own experience I see people and manufacturers throw around numbers and claims all over the internet so whenever I present any...

I haven't used that light personally but my understanding is that it's already operating at a pretty high temperature. High surface temperatures at the diodes reduces their longevity and efficacy. Forcing the board to take more power will further increase temperature as watts and heat are...

Sorry, you're absolutely right. It was a typo on my end. It should be µmol/s for both, obviously. Our data is visible here (and on the spectrum report on the same page): https://www.ledtonic.com/pages/q7-product-info, if anyone wants to confirm that I don't make stuff up. Thanks for noticing.