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Brass contains copper, and copper can be toxic to plants. Go stainless or preferably food grade plastics/stainless steel.

GPD is often rated at a specific PSI. If your unit doesn't have a pressure gauge there's no way of truly calculating GPD except by using a timer on a single gallon. Also, as it is used more, sediment will deposit in the filters and slow the rate.

Picked up an Eliminator 400 (400 GPD) R/O unit from Hydro Galaxy for ~$250. Couldn't be happier, as this does a WAYYY better job than my original 60 GPD R/O unit I had since I started growing.

Yeah, you're cooking them, and it's spread fast. Dump your res, and restart @ 1/4 of the recommended ml/gal. Also, a ppm meter would help.

I'm kind of curious as to why you're saying phosphorous is not available at 5.7pH - That's absolute rubbish. Some genetics have purple stems inherently, and it is not assured that it is a phosphorous deficiency, although it may be a possibility...

I usually run Lucas @ 8/16 regardless of PPM, and add 1ml CalMg per gallon. The difference, is that I use R/O water. Yes, your tap water has a low ppm, but there are still things in it that can fuck with your pH. If you have a tri-meter (I also use one) you should easily be able to see if your...

Quick Update: Girls are about a week into flower now. I flushed the res for the first time. (Ran all through veg, 20days, with no dump) Res pH had been dropping rapidly, so I added silica to bring the pH up, topped off, and hit is with 2-3ml 29% H2O2 /gal. Reset the res @ 8ml/16ml LUCAS +1.5ml...

Judging that it's no designed for hydroponic application and contains chemicals, I wouldn't take the chance. It's probably not good for your plants. Just use Physan 20 for algae.

As far as I am understanding (could be wrong) the colder temps causing purple shift (not sure about res content) are mainly related to the root zone temp dropping. I have come across some suggestion that in DWC, using a chiller, dropping res temps lower, but not so low as to drop metabolism...

Most of the electronics are to attempt to make the room fully automated. I will need a more complex controller for that. It is certainly not necessary, and most things can be run on dual outlet digital programmable timers, from light cycle, to irrigation timing. I'm just a big DIY/tinkering...

By 'higher' temps at night I mean usually ~77* at night with ~75* during lights on. I'm not sure if it will affect trich production, especially since MH give off more UV, and I may intstall a UV bulb to run on a timer during lights on to see if it stimulates more resin production. Low temps as...

One other theory that I've seen info on, is the idea that keeping your NIGHT temps HIGHER than your DAY temps, may reduce overall stretch. We shall see...

Flower it now. Would be easier if we knew your available space and actual measurements of the plant. Indicas usually double in size, sativas can triple. Take that into account when deciding if you're ready to flower. And yes, if it's a female, all clones will be female.

I'd go 4x8gallon - 4 plants - 2 600s - and you will easily be able to fill that screen. Each plant will have it's own separate container, with that being the best option. More roots, more buds. I'd say a month veg time. You can check out my grow log if you want, in my signature. I did a DIY UC...

Yeah, the AC shouldn't be needed in the winter, just the summer. In winter I will turn my vent fan around and pull cold air from outside through the lights and dump it into the room. The chiller is something I had from a Icebox setup I used temporarily as an AC. I want my water at 65* for max...

Hey poopstain! I've run these ones up to 1500ppm with no burn. I could probably go lower, and 1500ppm is usually the highest I'll go on purpose. I also use R/O water never tap water (pH fluctuations) and am debating about whether or not do do any flush on these girls. I have done hydro before...

Theories being, that while pretty much everyone says "Use HPS for flower!!!" I'll be using a FULL SPECTRUM Metal Halide (130,000 lumens) to flower. According to specs, this MH bulb has more energy in the RED spectrum (630-660nm) than a Hortilux Super HPS. Also, MH supposedly produces more UV...

Just in case anyone cares, I am not planning on doing a standard "flush" with this grow, as DWC is not an accumulating medium. I will however, drop ppms toward the end. I also may try a few other "theories" so this will be an adventure for me and an attempt to break the many stereotypical ideas...

Here's a thought: Now, I'm sure many people will disagree with me, even though I've smoked my own product WITHOUT FLUSH in DWC. Flushing, is designed to remove EXCESS chemical nutrients from the medium and cause the plant to use up internal stores. STOP. Let's think for a second...

90 is too high. Period. Even if those genetics are great, the environment at that temperature will lessen your yield. In DWC if you want a simple solution to be successful, I'd go with LUCAS formula nute wise. GH Flora Micro (8ml/gal) GH Flora Bloom (16ml/gal) and I usually add 1-2ml CalMg/gal...