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good... cause the others i found were a lot more expensive... wasn't going to waste the money if i can't find one

yes... you aren't stressing anything yet

yes... thank you... now i understand fully see... i'm not such a bad guy... lol... sorry most people don't like when i disagree... i have a hard time getting information do you think this will work... i just found it online.... i'm going to go back and look for the right one where the busted...

yeah.. 5 times a minute you're working in minutes then just happily converting to hours at the end without actually doing any converting... that's what i didn't understand... but i got it now

I know I'm the one asking the questions here... and if you can explain it to me I'll be fine with it... but I'd have to disagree with that specific answer at this point in time. With my understanding of capacitors they only store energy until it is needed... at which point it is released. I...

Yes, just use a cord sufficient enough to handle all 4 lights. When you wire them in a normal environment you are just attaching them to a longer wire. It's no different. Just use wire caps and a large enough gauge wire. You didn't say how many watts but I imagine 14 or even 16 would be fine

I have a no BS question for anybody that knows the answer. I have a dual speed twin blower fan from an OTR microwave. I got it bare with the wire harness cut. It has a loose diagram (not a schematic) on the sticker. White is common, blue is high, yellow is low. If I hook up to white/blue or...

i'm saving the cooled light for the bump up to 600 ;-) for now the light is not cooled... just the room will be exhausted but like i said 77 with the door open... so if i can exchange the air twice an hour (which we know isn't enough) that should be enough for the temperature and on that...

http://www.briteideashydro.com/calc-calculator.php this website would agree with you.... but i intend to do my intake passively so i should probably take it up closer to 80... which would be a 1:1 which maybe will be sufficient

how does that math work?? how do you get to 400 cubic feet a minute changing 80 cubic feet of air every 12 minutes? that's what i don't understand

so... door closed with circulation fan on low air temp is 97 at 18 inches from light door opened for 30 minutes with fan on low air temp is 77 at 18 inches from light so how much air flow will i need to get it around 77-80?

one is height length x width x height (dunno why he stuck a v on the end though)

wiring is easty if it comes down to it... hook the black wires together... the wire wires together.. and if there are green/barecopper hook them together too if it comes to that i know there was a post on here somewhere about a plug in thermostat... that will save you from having to wire a...

well... if you are revamping... run your lights at night when it's coldest orr.. swap out one of your fans with a heater fan

sorry... i guess i should have been more specific.. .didn't see the circulation fan at first... i meant the exhaust fan... or blower i guess

where'd you get that fan and how loud is it?

so the test today... direct light.. fan off... 104... direct light fan on... 97 open door... under 83 in less than 5 minutes... got bored after that this is all with the circulation fan on currently have the thermometer at canopy level but out of direct center of the light to see what the...

i know somebody who runs 4 70w hps off one off the shelf timer... worked out for them so far you'll be fine

bumpity bump... i ran an open door test... no circulation at all... just opened the cab door... temps dropped to 85 under direct light so how many cfm will it take to swap out enough air to keep it cool? i'm running a test now with door closed and circulation fan on... but i'm waiting for you...

in that sketch... the fan in in front of the carbon filter.... but i've always read you should suck air through the filter in stead of blowing it through