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looks like a girl to me... and i'm 44 more bugg than you so i'd take my word for it

had to ask... didn't know if maybe UK 220 was somehow different than ours or something... glad you're okay and back on track

PANG are you in UK or something? 220... busses...

okay... standard 240 has two hots and a neutral... the neutral is used as a safe path to ground in case of a short or fault... now some newer 240 is actually 240/120 like dryers for instance the new ones (and old one in mobile homes... they got them first) have both hots for 240 but then...

thank god... i was fearing for your life when i saw what you did to that heater

you can get a 4 prong dryer plug and outlet to match if you want to go that route... but if you're ok with having an extra wire it's not a big deal... that's for a 4 prong 240 or like a 3 or 4 way light switch setup... it's actually 12/3 w/ground... but otherwise you should be fine to use it (as...

technically you should remove the outlet, do your splicing in a junction box and hook up your outlets in boxes... is you ground wire insulated? 240 it just both 120 phases together... then uses the ground in case... 4 wire dryers use both 120, neutral, and ground because the dryer runs it's...

I assume they intended for you to use 12/3 or 10/3 extension cord type cable. You probably got the 12/3 romex simpull or something like that... solid copper cable... it will work i guess but will be pretty rigid and might work loose if you're going to be moving it around a lot i bet if you...

right now i have just a plastic sheet down on a wood floor... was looking for a tub or planter but they are so damned expensive it just isn't worth it... i mean $80+ for a plastic tub... what a rip.. interested to see what input others have

i thought a dark colored exterior door/window sealer caulk would do the job well... easy to work (a little easier to deal with that liquid nails... and if the LN is too thin light leaks through a bit... experience talking... if light is not an issue it's good though)... also the exterior caulk...

i personally wouldn't bypass that feature... if it's only running for a few minutes then that feature shouldn't bother what you are doing... and if it's getting too hot do you really WANT it to keep running? doesn't seem safe

good to know it works for you guys at least... those are some impressive numbers for sure

people seem to like the inline can style blowers http://htgsupply.com/products.asp?categoryID=7&subcategoryID=39 i personally only have experience with one type... a twin blower off an OTR microwave... not exactly you're every day solution... but it fit what i needed perfectly...

lol... toker isn't my name.. it's some forum junk... and in general... posting the same thing twice back to back... well whatever... as for the rest.. just trying to help but i have no experience with that much RH... so good luck

it's been maintaining 75-77 all day running on low I have been in and out a few times for a few minutes here and there so the true test will be a full 24 hour door shut test running through the whole 13/11 that being said i have a question for anyone who might have experience would it be safe...

if you don't have an active exhaust you're only option is going to be not having a door... are your hoods vented? if so exhausting your hoods will help a ton if not you will need to exchange a lot of air with the right amount of air flow the temps with the door shut and exhaust on can be the...

ps.. you double posted this... that's annoying

why is the water in there? i'm thoroughly confused now...

GrowLush HPSL400 The 400w HPS GrowLush Lamp is designed to run in a 400w HPS Ballast. Growlush lamps are cheap but not nasty. The 400w lamp has a lumen output of approximately 50,000, like other 400w lamps. The main difference is that it may need to be replaced sooner then other brands. For...

put a drain at the lowest point... is it coming in from rain? if it from condensation?