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Slight magnesium deficiency and light/heat stress is what i see

Read that link.. then read some more then hopefully you understand the difference I can't help stupid but I can help people willing to learn. So it's up to you. If you know something I don't please feel free to share I'm always open to listen and make my share of mistakes also... But I try to...

Fast Google search to get you on your way. There is lots out there maybe do some reading on it instead of making false or uninformed claims then just trying to be right. There is enough bs info ppl have to sift through on here. They don't need more...

Plants take up available nutrients in elemental form organics needs to be broken down by microbial life into elemental form salt based are already in elemental form.... There is no difference between the 2 in terms of what the plant takes up the difference is availability and the sustainability...

OP with 4gal of solution and little to no buffer your going to get ph swings like that chart someone posted of ppm are increasing the plants are drinking more than eating and that can cause the ph to drop as the concentration increases due to the acidic nature of our nutes.

You are joking right? You have no idea how plants uptake nutrients or nutrient availability. Then going to sit there and BS me instead just saying I'm not sure

Can you explain how there is any difference between synthetic and organic nutrients to plants? Other than microbes which aren't all that diverse in hydro anyways? Nitrogen is nitrogen, calcium is calcium, phosphorous is phosphorus etc etc. The plant doesn't give 2 shits what source it came...

There are several reason why you can see ph change to decrease in flower instead of increase in veg. I won't bother getting into them. The important thing is getting the ph stable. Just the increased dark period causes a release of more h+ ions and can lower ph

Your using RO and have no ph buffering capacity. That's why you have always had drastic ph swing in a short period. Ph should not drift more that 0.3 max in 24 hrs. Ideally 0.2 Try mixing tap and RO 50/50 maybe if you link or post your water repost I can go over it for you. What ph down...

Yeah I don't think there are any major issues left but getting the buffer is important that means getting the right carbonate bicarbonate.

Just a matter of tweeking... I'm only thinking out loud. The plants look good really no need to change

I'm thinking the high K from the ph up potassium bicarbonate may be limiting the calcium and phosphorus uptake. May need to switch to calcium carbonate... But like I say let's wait and see. Can try going back to 1ml but that may then not be enough buffer. Some purpling going on?

Watch the tips to see if it's follows by spotting in the same leaf the next few days after making the adjustments

How are the plants looking?

Perfect... CEC is cation exchange capacity. Also they are getting the same nutrient ratios each feed. In RDWC they change based on uptake so we need to dial it in

Also are they growing as fast? Calcium is the most important nutrient more than nitrogen but of course all are needed

Different CEC.

Getting temps up is gonna be key. You want leaf temps of 75-78 so air temps need to be higher.

No your cal mag does not contribute to the alkalinity. Yes you can stay at half dose like you are with good VPD it should correct the issue. And thinking a bit more about it half cal mag and 8 g of mag sulfate are probably better. But get the vpd up a bit so lowering humidity even to 50% if you...

Water temp does not keep root rot away and the amount of sodium in some water sources can be very high depending what they use for the majority of buffering like calcium carbonate. A safe bet is under 150ppm but even then it can rarely cause issues. It's best to look at the individual water...