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Yeah, I'm sure they do. You aren't going to notice much effect during mid/late flower though.

That is a blend, and not just a kelp fertilizer. Although kelp will have micronutrients in it. But it's definitely an acceptable micro mix. You will see benefits from the Humic acids and seaweed extract as well. Directly feeding, you'll want to use that at about 0.2g/L. A 100x stock solution...

I didn't necessarily mean there isn't fulvic acid in it. So, if that was your interpreted, I apologize. I know humates are in all decaying organic material, peat moss included. I know fulvic acid is a humic acid, the lightest humic acid. What I consider a fulvic/humic acid product is a purer...

Seeing as Rhizotonic is meant more for growth stages and not flower stages, it still makes sense by what you've heard. The feed schedule greatly reduces the concentration during the earlier stages of flower and then stops during late stages. On top of that, it's already at such a low...

The one thing that I should note is that I have no idea what concentration they are at in the fertilizer and I have no idea what concentration is appropriate in a nutrient feed solution. I'll of course try to learn, but these are such a specialized additive, so who knows when it will happen by.

Rhizotonic is a blend of a few B vitamins, as they mentioned, but also most likely has the growth hormone Indole-3-butyric acid in it, and possibly 1-Naphthaleneacetic acid. They are commonly found in rooting compounds and increase the rate of root growth in clones.

But, to give you an honest remark on Rhizotonic and Boost, the short answer to when I'll have a replacement for them is I have no idea. I know they are hormone blends. I also know, for the most part, what hormones are in them. So, I could go so far as suggest comparable replacements but not...

I understand not wanting to gamble on a crop. I know it takes a lot to understand a lot of what I'm doing. And that's okay. I don't expect people to make changes over night. Just like growing plants, it's a process and it takes time and effort, from both me and you. I do my best to provide...

EDTA is NOT toxic to plants. It is the most common chelating agent in the world. If it was truly toxic to plants, we wouldn't be using it in the quantities that we are. Chemical compatibility is basically the reason why chelated nutrients are beneficial. It is easier to use them in stock...

You probably won't need cobalt or nickel fertilizers. If you're in soil, there's going to be enough. If you're using tap water, there's going to be enough. If you're in hydro, the plants will make do without it. So, two things you don't need to worry about. You may also be able to eschew sodium...

Right now, you're being the rude one. You spend a lot of time talking about DIY fertilizers and how we all don't know what we're doing. I know you made a short post in DIY about using Hydrobuddy, which is valuable, and I know it's meant to help. But instead of berating people all the time, why...

Canna Continental is what it's listed under, as that's technically their US business name.

I added a few more Canna Products, including Coco and PK 13/14. I've got a big list I've built up and I've finally got some extra time to work on this, so there will be some more products done. I will also be revisiting a lot of products in an effort to make sure they are more accurate. I will...

Well, based on that analysis, they are all sulfates. So, copper sulfate, iron sulfate, manganese sulfate, etc. Boron is probably a SolUBor and molybdenum probably a sodium molybdate. You need very little of it, so solubility shouldn't be a problem. Probably no more than .5-.7g in 10 gallons...

I can't remember, but you may also need 50 posts to send a PM

lol, marketing strategy. Most LEDs are more efficient. LEDs are more customizable. LEDs are more reliable. LEDs last longer. LEDs have a cheaper lifecycle cost. None of those things have to do with marketing. They all have to do with the facts of LEDs. Ask ANY engineer. They'd love to tell you...

I recommend reading the first page of this thread: https://www.rollitup.org/t/npk-changes-from-calmag.908512/ I covered it more in depth than you may need, but it should help you understand things a little better.

Organic fertilizers are more difficult. In large part because there are can be multiple types of the same organic fertilizer. There's a number of raw organic fertilizers that I have lab tests on, like kelp powder, a bat guano, and a few others. And once I get a few more, I may come up with...

The final blend will deliver nutrients in the following concentrations: Aqua Flores A/B Combined: Total N: 123 ppm N (NO3): 111 ppm N (NH4): 12 ppm P: 57 ppm K: 276 ppm Ca: 51 ppm Mg: 36 ppm S: 60 ppm B: 0.3 ppm Cu: 0.06 ppm Fe: 1.8 ppm Mn: 0.9 ppm Mo: 0.09 ppm Zn: 0.3 ppm Si: 2.1 ppm Aqua...

I've also updated the website as well, but here is Aqua Flores and Vega. Comparable to AQUA FLORES A/B Combined Mix each at 3ml/l of water or 2.33 tbsp/gallon (2 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon per gallon) Part A Magnesium Nitrate: 112.90 g/l Calcium Nitrate: 89.40 g/l Fe-EDTA 13%: 4.61 g/l Part B...