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Your plants couldn't handle it, possibly due to high H2O2, but not necessarily. Regardless, What I said earlier: For a 30ppm solution of H2O2: use 1mL/L or 3.8mL/gallon of a 3% or use 0.09mL/L or 0.3mL/gallon of a 35%

I just realized I may not have been clear on one thing. In regards to Specific Gravity, you have to use the correct units. You have a liquid that weighs 2.4 lbs. Well, you don't have 1 gallon now do you? So, you have to convert. You probably have 1 quart. Is that right? or is it 1 Liter? You...

I'm writing up a bunch of other stuff, but to quickly answer this one: The PPM reading on a meter that reads it is a measurement based on electrical conductivity(EC), which correlated to Total Dissolved Solids. TDS is measured in PPM. So, it's a measurement of total ions in solution...

I honestly doubt it did. So, you can't go off the bottles recommendations for water purification when your application is not purely water purification. Too much H2O2 in hydroponics or in the feed solution in soil will be detrimental.

Well, if you added a 3% solution, that's fine. But one thing to consider: Did the bottle of H2O2 you bought come with instructions explicitly directed at hydroponics or plant growth?

You're running way to high a concentration of H2O2. 220ppm is way too high. About 3 times too much, and 7 times as much as I recommended.

Alright, so, you seem to misunderstand ratios with chemical concentration. Bear with me for a second, because this will all make sense in a bit. First off, all fertilizers in the US are sold on a weight/weight% basis. This means a fertilizer that has a 2-1-2 on the bottle is 2% total...

Google search results showed a search for citrate instead of nitrate when I first did a search,

A local fertilizer supplier? Or elsewhere on the Internet? Paying for shipping is a waste of money, really, but you can get 50 lbs from customhydronutrients.com for $35. Are you confusing magnesium CITRATE with magnesium NITRATE?

It's basically a moot point. While what you said is true, it's not important in the grand scheme of things. Yes, certain salts are preferable to others. This is because when they actually used just calcium nitrate and potassium nitrate, obviously, that's all I'm going to use as well. But when...

When it comes to fertilizer chemistry, a phosphate is a phosphate is a phosphate, potassium is potassium is potassium. It doesn't matter what it's attached to. They "break apart" in solution as ions. That's the most important thing to know. So, when ever I reverse engineer something, it doesn't...

Okay, did some more digging, so the information on that pdf is just the list of ingredients found on the labels. And even then, some are mildy inaccurate. Which is certainly useful, but I may still need to get lab analysis done of a lot of them.

Well, I had someone try and discredit me on another forum for doing this sort of thing, so I'm sure it will still piss them off.

Well, the formulas are about to be public. :fire:

I appreciate this.

Chillking may be "professional" but they aren't on par with Daikin, Trane, or Carrier water chillers. They are water chillers modified from roof top units or other self contained HVAC systems. They are not originally designed for use as a water chiller, and because of that, they are far less...

That is correct. It is not an enzyme product. It is not like Cannazyme or Hygrozyme or Pond Zyme or anything like that.

You are welcome! There's a few more Canna blends on the website as well.

You'll be fine with what's there. There isn't a scientifically optimal ratio of humates to kelp. You need neither to grow plants. You will do fine with one and without the other. You will do best with both. Just have both. That blend has both.

So, using condensation water comes with one danger. Legionella bacteria. But if the water is properly draining from the A/C equipment and it is not spending a long time sitting around, then you won't have much to worry about. Regardless, I would still treat the water with a low dose of chlorine...