For all new growers with questions... Tons of information and answers..

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
hey bro.. glad to have you back and hear your close to launch...

so you want to know how i germinate my seeds?? well i break tradition and dont paper towel them.... yea.. im a rouge grower i know.. bongsmilie

really i keep it simple.. i soak the seeds in water over night.. i usually use shot glasses because they are small and i usually only have a few seeds.. i use something bigger of course if i have more.. and make sure to keep the seeds seperated by strains... i leave them in a cupboard or wherever over night.. usually i try to hit 15 to 20 hours of soak.. at least 12 hours and no more than 24..

when i am ready to put them into their cubes i soak the cubes (i use rapid rooters also) in water for about a half hour.. sometimes i have some clonex rooting hormones or root 66 or some other root starter ill throw that in when i soak the cubes.. after about a half hour i let the water drain from cubes.. i know when they are good because they stop dripping water.. then i throw the seed in the cube, the cube in the tray, and the tray in my veg room... they are under lights from then on (even before sprouting they are under lights)... the light thing is optional.. they dont NEED light until they sprout.. but i do it mainly for the heat.. i keep the cubes nice and moist over the next few days.. and usually within 4 or 5 days from when i put the seeds in the cubes they are ready to go into their sites..

as far as light i would go either way.. yes, mh is better in the end for vegging.. but the heat that is put off my mh lights is WAY WAY hotter than hps lamps.. me personally, i would try both just to see the difference.. i mean, an mh bulb isnt that expensive.. and you can see first hand how they are.. but.. if you want to avoid to much heat stick with just and hps and the floros for side lighting..

with the exhaust here is the thing.... if you dont exhaust the heat into another room completely it will eventually just get sucked back into the tent.. which means after a while when the entire room is heated the fans are just pulling in warm air.. this is bad of course.. you should really try to get the hot air into another room that isnt near the tent or even outside if you can do it right... if you really cant make modifications to do that you may just need to supply extra co2 to compensate for the lack of it in the higher temps...

temps can pretty much range from mid 50s to mid 90s and be ok depending on the co2 levels... now... you should try to maintain a temp in the mid 70s at all times... this is ideal.. and a RH around 50%.. these are good numbers to run the entire grow.. its not possible typically tho.. so its best to just try to limit the temp shifts to about 15 degrees.. if you have a fan that is pulling air from below on timed intervals it could be enough cool air to counteract the temps of the exhaust if you did just exhaust into the same room basically.. it would take some playing around with... but temp stress early on (as long as its not extremes like 50s at night and 90s during the day) are less important as they are when the plants mature... i wouldnt let temps get below 55, above 95, or have a RH that is less than 30% or higher than 70%...

hopefully that tells ya what ya need bro.. let me know if you have any more questions..


Man you are the shiz.

Thx 4 holdin my hand through. If you * Ed Rosenthal concur that you should start the seed in what you intend to grow in (obviously r rooters are a buffer), but essentially skipping the paper towel routine.

From my newb opinion readin other sites & all the other reading I've down. It seems to hold true that the folks that seem to sound the most like they know what they are talkin bout all say to skip the paper towels.

I can digg it, hopefully countdown & launch begins this weekend.

Waitn on just a few more beans & I wanna (late addition), jus wanna start em all @ once. My patience are about @ their end though. MAN come on postman.

Your a lifesaver as always.

Stay up bro, I really hope to have my own bud porn to share soon!!!
 
im sorry to give you the bad news.. i always hate discouraging like that.. but theres always later right?.. bongsmilie
It's not really that bad i have a lot of other seeds, your info is a great help to me and I will be doing indoor grows, but there isn't anything I can do to change the problem i have now maybe switch lighting because they aren't but about a week old :bigjoint:
 

dbo24242

New Member
hey Sampson you think it safe to transplant at mid stage flowering from DWC into premium grade potting soil? girl seems to be pretty stressed and its an easily hermable strain so I'm not sure what to doo.... about 20-30 days left according to breeder infos but I think might be a few extra. dutch passion blueberry. suffered from a rough problem: blocked air diffusers and pH caused K lockout caused stiff brittle branches and like 6 of 10 main branches broke early into flowering because I lifted her up into the ceiling. also tried to super crop her, never grown blueberry before. it is a topping strain, that's for sure. every fim blew up into multiple nugs (then branches broke), at least I know how to grow this strain now! I think I got some clones from it already but I am not sure which genes are which anymore! Gonna have to see when they flower anyways getting off topic. she looks half dead already
 

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
Sampson, one more, one more last thing.

Could you give me a quick breakdown for ideal PH & PPM readings for my aqua for to cover prop on thru to flower? And maybe also breakdown water temps for the duration, if you feel so inclined?

Distilled is what I want for virtually everything right?

You da man, thanks for everything!
 

Normajean1

Well-Known Member
Hey sampson i previously replied to this thread once about why my plant was wilting at night and perking up during the day. Well everything has been going fine until now. My girls are starting to develope these spots on there leaves.

As of now

-ph 6.0-6.6

-soil- Fox farm happy frog

Nutes- Fox farm lineup (fist dose- Week 3 Veg at 1/4 dose.

- vegged under 300watts cfl now under 600watts cfl (12/12 for 7 days so far) no signs of sex.

Now ive heard of fox farms products having problems with calcium and Magnesium problems but have seen so many successfull grows done with it. Am i doing something wrong?
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
hey bro.. glad to have you back and hear your close to launch...

so you want to know how i germinate my seeds?? well i break tradition and dont paper towel them.... yea.. im a rouge grower i know.. bongsmilie

really i keep it simple.. i soak the seeds in water over night.. i usually use shot glasses because they are small and i usually only have a few seeds.. i use something bigger of course if i have more.. and make sure to keep the seeds seperated by strains... i leave them in a cupboard or wherever over night.. usually i try to hit 15 to 20 hours of soak.. at least 12 hours and no more than 24..

when i am ready to put them into their cubes i soak the cubes (i use rapid rooters also) in water for about a half hour.. sometimes i have some clonex rooting hormones or root 66 or some other root starter ill throw that in when i soak the cubes.. after about a half hour i let the water drain from cubes.. i know when they are good because they stop dripping water.. then i throw the seed in the cube, the cube in the tray, and the tray in my veg room... they are under lights from then on (even before sprouting they are under lights)... the light thing is optional.. they dont NEED light until they sprout.. but i do it mainly for the heat.. i keep the cubes nice and moist over the next few days.. and usually within 4 or 5 days from when i put the seeds in the cubes they are ready to go into their sites..

as far as light i would go either way.. yes, mh is better in the end for vegging.. but the heat that is put off my mh lights is WAY WAY hotter than hps lamps.. me personally, i would try both just to see the difference.. i mean, an mh bulb isnt that expensive.. and you can see first hand how they are.. but.. if you want to avoid to much heat stick with just and hps and the floros for side lighting..

with the exhaust here is the thing.... if you dont exhaust the heat into another room completely it will eventually just get sucked back into the tent.. which means after a while when the entire room is heated the fans are just pulling in warm air.. this is bad of course.. you should really try to get the hot air into another room that isnt near the tent or even outside if you can do it right... if you really cant make modifications to do that you may just need to supply extra co2 to compensate for the lack of it in the higher temps...

temps can pretty much range from mid 50s to mid 90s and be ok depending on the co2 levels... now... you should try to maintain a temp in the mid 70s at all times... this is ideal.. and a RH around 50%.. these are good numbers to run the entire grow.. its not possible typically tho.. so its best to just try to limit the temp shifts to about 15 degrees.. if you have a fan that is pulling air from below on timed intervals it could be enough cool air to counteract the temps of the exhaust if you did just exhaust into the same room basically.. it would take some playing around with... but temp stress early on (as long as its not extremes like 50s at night and 90s during the day) are less important as they are when the plants mature... i wouldnt let temps get below 55, above 95, or have a RH that is less than 30% or higher than 70%...

hopefully that tells ya what ya need bro.. let me know if you have any more questions..


Man you are the shiz.

Thx 4 holdin my hand through. If you * Ed Rosenthal concur that you should start the seed in what you intend to grow in (obviously r rooters are a buffer), but essentially skipping the paper towel routine.

From my newb opinion readin other sites & all the other reading I've down. It seems to hold true that the folks that seem to sound the most like they know what they are talkin bout all say to skip the paper towels.

I can digg it, hopefully countdown & launch begins this weekend.

Waitn on just a few more beans & I wanna (late addition), jus wanna start em all @ once. My patience are about @ their end though. MAN come on postman.

Your a lifesaver as always.

Stay up bro, I really hope to have my own bud porn to share soon!!!
glad to help bro! make sure to post some pics when you get going...

the reason i personally dont like the paper towel method is it is a 100% sure way to germinate seeds.. that may sound stupid to not like that.. but i believe somewhat in natural selection.. if the seed is not strong enough to germinate in a root cube or straight from soil then i dont want it growing in my garden.. it may be my own superstition.. but its just what i think.. plus the paper towel method is so much more of a pain in the ass.. bongsmilie

It's not really that bad i have a lot of other seeds, your info is a great help to me and I will be doing indoor grows, but there isn't anything I can do to change the problem i have now maybe switch lighting because they aren't but about a week old :bigjoint:
EDIT** if you change the lighting now (increase it and use the right kind) your plant will be fine.. getting the right light on it and a small fan to help strengthen it will take care of the problem.. its just getting the right light for what you want as an end product that is the remaining question..

hey Sampson you think it safe to transplant at mid stage flowering from DWC into premium grade potting soil? girl seems to be pretty stressed and its an easily hermable strain so I'm not sure what to doo.... about 20-30 days left according to breeder infos but I think might be a few extra. dutch passion blueberry. suffered from a rough problem: blocked air diffusers and pH caused K lockout caused stiff brittle branches and like 6 of 10 main branches broke early into flowering because I lifted her up into the ceiling. also tried to super crop her, never grown blueberry before. it is a topping strain, that's for sure. every fim blew up into multiple nugs (then branches broke), at least I know how to grow this strain now! I think I got some clones from it already but I am not sure which genes are which anymore! Gonna have to see when they flower anyways getting off topic. she looks half dead already
EDIT** to be honest bro it doesnt sound like the transplant would do anything worse than she has already been through... the main thing about transplanting is just being gentle.. if you take the time and gently move your girl from one place to another then she should have be fine.. the transplant should have little affect negatively on her...

blueberry is a crazy strain for sure... topping is what most people recommend.. but i would have done exactly what you did.. super cropped and fim'd that bitch... just next time you know you'll have to support the branches... its a little trickier in a dwc system because you cant stick support rods in the bucket to give you something to tie too... but im sure there is a way to get it done.. supporting the branches i mean.. not sticking rods in your dwc system.

good luck with that bro.. sorry to hear that she is having troubles like that...

Would there be any problems with a low humidity like between 20-35 degrees?
no.. not really.. the plant may transpire a lot of extra liquid tho.. so you may have to water more often.. and adding some sort of carbohydrate additive like sugar daddy or molasses or something similar will help too..

Sampson, one more, one more last thing.

Could you give me a quick breakdown for ideal PH & PPM readings for my aqua for to cover prop on thru to flower? And maybe also breakdown water temps for the duration, if you feel so inclined?

Distilled is what I want for virtually everything right?

You da man, thanks for everything!
water temps you want to keep around 65 to 70 the entire grow.. the warmer the water the less dissolved oxygen it holds.. so try to keep water temps in the mid 60s and keep some sort of air stone in your res as well.. the more oxygen the better!

ph you want to keep between 5.5 and 6.5.. with 5.8 to 6.2 being ideal.. dont try to maintain a steady ph.. it will drift some.. just adjust every .4 or .5 of a shift.. and only adjust about .5 all together.. to much of a shift can cause osmotic shock which affects how the plant absorbs water/nutes.. nutes will typically help lower a ph, if you begin with water that has a higher ph.. i personally mix my nutes, adjust my ph, allow the res to mix for an hour or two (i have a chiller that circulates water and an airstone) and adjust the ph again, and then a 3rd time an hour or two later before i feed my plants.. i find this usually stabilizes the ph enough to go a week without much of if any further adjusting at all...

as far as ppm/ec goes i use ec.. but you can figure out the ppm using this link http://www.gardenscure.com/420/hydroponics/96521-printable-ec-ppm-cf-conversion-chart.html follow the ec to the truncheon scale and then adjust for whatever scale you are using to figure your ppm..
sprout/transplant - .5 to .7
veg state - 1.0 to 1.2.. maybe 1.4 if the co2 levels are high enough i can push the plants a little extra
transition (first week of 12/12) - .5 to .7
flower onset (for 2 weeks after transition week) - .8 to 1.0
flowering (rest of flower) - 1.2 to 1.6

reverse osmosis and/or distilled water is nice because the ec and ppm is 0 or VERY close to for both.. this means you know whatever reading you get is strictly nutes.. you dont have to use it if your water has an ec of .4 or less... and even then some nute companies have hard water formulas... so as long as you let the chlorine evaporate from your tap water (if you have a lot in it) your fine using tap water..


Hey sampson i previously replied to this thread once about why my plant was wilting at night and perking up during the day. Well everything has been going fine until now. My girls are starting to develope these spots on there leaves.

As of now

-ph 6.0-6.6

-soil- Fox farm happy frog

Nutes- Fox farm lineup (fist dose- Week 3 Veg at 1/4 dose.

- vegged under 300watts cfl now under 600watts cfl (12/12 for 7 days so far) no signs of sex.

Now ive heard of fox farms products having problems with calcium and Magnesium problems but have seen so many successfull grows done with it. Am i doing something wrong?
now is the ph you are giving your soils ph or your water/nute solution ph?? if its the water/nute ph then you may have a soil ph problem.. not because of the water/nute solution ph.. but just in general... you may want to get a soil ph test kit and see if your soils ph is ok..

if that IS your soils ph, my next question would be are you using a calcium/magnesium supplement??

it looks like a def/lockout issue.. but i dont want to diagnosis without all the info...
 

Normajean1

Well-Known Member
I dont have a soil ph tester. do you know of any to recommend? I also dont have any cal mag. i have some epsom salts for the mag problems but i dont know what to use for the calcium problems. i will get some calmag sooon.
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
I dont have a soil ph tester. do you know of any to recommend? I also dont have any cal mag. i have some epsom salts for the mag problems but i dont know what to use for the calcium problems. i will get some calmag sooon.
http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=CWS510&AC=1 thats a link to a really good soil ph tester.. its also a moisture meter.. which is nice you get both.. its a little bit pricey to only use the ph side... but if you use the moisture meter on it, it'll be worth the money...

http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=CMP405&AC=1 theres a link to cal-mag... i checked a few different brands and such.. and they all seem to be about the same price....

hopefully i am right about this and its an easy (for the most part) fix.... i really think its more a def than a ph issue.. but.. its best to check and know for sure.. you can always get the cal-mag and try it and if there is not an improvement get the ph meter later... a week (which is all it should take to show signs of healing or not) is not long enough for a ph issue to get out of hand anymore than it is... if that makes sense...

is white rhino an autoflower?
as far as i know right now there are no white rhino specific auto flowers.. most WR is regular photoperiod... although im sure they will release an auto WR someday...
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
i didnt realize until today i missed a couple questions on a post earlier on this page.. i went and answered them tho.... make sure if you were one of the people i missed on the big answer section a couple posts up that you look again...
 

rswain1422

Member
Was wonder how to do hydro as cheap and easily as possible. I have 100lbs of round rocks, cocoa pads, inline fan, I feel like this way is more complicated. Does anyone have a good way to simplify it. I was gonna do 1 or 2 4 x 8 trays, but wondering if there is a simpler way. I listened to someone who is an expert but am having doubts i am ready to set this whole thing up. Hey im a chick ...any help is MUCH appreciated! Thanks.
 

Normajean1

Well-Known Member
im thinking its more of a deficiency becuase i added some organic garden lime at 1 tablespoon per gallon. its gotta be calcium or mag. thanks for the help again bro. great advice.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon toker
It's not really that bad i have a lot of other seeds, your info is a great help to me and I will be doing indoor grows, but there isn't anything I can do to change the problem i have now maybe switch lighting because they aren't but about a week old :bigjoint:

EDIT** if you change the lighting now (increase it and use the right kind) your plant will be fine.. getting the right light on it and a small fan to help strengthen it will take care of the problem.. its just getting the right light for what you want as an end product that is the remaining question..


Thanks for the info and if I can't find the right kind of lighting for these I can always germinate in march and let it grow outside like you said there is always a next time and you have definately helped me with your thread. I've a feeling this winter is going to very dry which is disappointing but what can you do:eyesmoke:
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
Was wonder how to do hydro as cheap and easily as possible. I have 100lbs of round rocks, cocoa pads, inline fan, I feel like this way is more complicated. Does anyone have a good way to simplify it. I was gonna do 1 or 2 4 x 8 trays, but wondering if there is a simpler way. I listened to someone who is an expert but am having doubts i am ready to set this whole thing up. Hey im a chick ...any help is MUCH appreciated! Thanks.
i will be more than happy to help you out! hydro is REALLY easy.. there are just a ton of options that can make it hard and seem complicated... ill do my best to explain a simple flood table set up.. but just the table/hydro part.. as to not get too confusing.. if you need help with exhaust and stuff we can move on to that... better to get one thing figured out first than to bombard you with a ton of different things..

from the sound of it you are wanting to do a flood table setup... here is the basics of what you need and if i can provide a link for an example, that as well.....

1) flood table... http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=BB230K&AC=1 this is what will hold the flood tray... it should be slightly lower on one side to direct flow downwards...

2) flood trays... whatever size you want to do... just make sure you have the table size to support it of course... http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=BFT230&AC=1

3) a reservoir.. this can be as simple as a large plastic tote with a lid... you'll need to put a hole in the bottom of one side with a gromet.... ill explain more on that later...

4) a water pump.. make sure its a good strong one... this is what will pump the water from the res to the flood table... http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=ECO250&AC=1

5) air stone and air pump... you want to keep as much dissolved oxygen in the nute solution as you can.. this will help... http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=RAK&AC=1

6) tubing to connect pump to the flood table.. will vary depending on the pump...

7) 6x6 rockwool blocks for a growing medium.. if you want to use other stuff thats fine... but these work best..

8) 4 gromets that fit the tubes...

9) timer for water pump
__________________________________________________________________________________________

1) take res, place hole in bottom corner, insert gromet so it is tight and provides a water tight seal... place a second hole, opposite side towards the top with a gromet..

2) place tubing on pump, run tubing through hole in res so the pump is inside the res...

3) place flood tray in flood table..

4) run tubing to hole it more elevated side of flood tray.. if the tray does not have an intake hole make one, insert gromet and tubing so water flows into flood tray but the hole is water tight...

5) place drain hole at opposite end of flood table.. gromet and tubing... run tubing to res..

6) fill tray with desired medium.. hydroton, coco coir, rockwool cubes (large), perlite... these all work well.. i'd have to see the round stones you have to be able to tell you how well they'd work.. but i think a mix of the coco pads torn up and the rocks would work well..

7) place air stone in res... fill res with nutes... set timer to desired flood times.. and sit back and relax!!

obviously there are a other little things you need to think about.. ph and ec/ppm (both are easy to explain).. res temps... and flood schedule are about it... i can explain those later.... but thats a very basic set up... its made for clones pretty much... or you could do one hell of an LST grow.. but if you use clones you'll need a mother room.. but lets just start with that... does that system sound do able for you or would you like some other options??



im thinking its more of a deficiency becuase i added some organic garden lime at 1 tablespoon per gallon. its gotta be calcium or mag. thanks for the help again bro. great advice.
no problem bro... get some cal-mag and you should be fine!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon toker
It's not really that bad i have a lot of other seeds, your info is a great help to me and I will be doing indoor grows, but there isn't anything I can do to change the problem i have now maybe switch lighting because they aren't but about a week old :bigjoint:

EDIT** if you change the lighting now (increase it and use the right kind) your plant will be fine.. getting the right light on it and a small fan to help strengthen it will take care of the problem.. its just getting the right light for what you want as an end product that is the remaining question..


Thanks for the info and if I can't find the right kind of lighting for these I can always germinate in march and let it grow outside like you said there is always a next time and you have definately helped me with your thread. I've a feeling this winter is going to very dry which is disappointing but what can you do:eyesmoke:
winter can always be a bad time for bud... by the end of december, at least in my area, what is going around is less than good.. and the only dode that there is is what is grown in the area.. it gets bad.. hopefully this will be your last winter with a drought... bongsmilie
 

Normajean1

Well-Known Member
Both of those plants are females. They both showed some pistils today.:bigjoint::bigjoint:

So now im deffinitely going to get some calmag moday. One more question for you. How much should i give it at first. I know there is probably directions on the bottle but since they have been deprived of cal-mag for a while, how much should i give my girls. Thanks again for the help. Man im lucky out of 4 plants ive had 3 females.
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
i'd start with 1/4 to 1/2 strength... whatever that is.. i know the first instinct is to try to fix the problem all in one swoop.. but you need to let the plant adjust a little... plus it may look worse than it is... starting out gently with the calmag will ensure you dont over do it and another problem arise like burn or something...

very glad to hear you have 2 females tho!! bongsmilie congrats
 

mr773

Active Member
hey simpson first let me say everything you have told me was spot on you are batting a thousand, the switch from organic to non-organic was great, i have been mixing the to on a couple of my plants and i think i have the mix that i like. this next grow of big bang (greenhouse seeds) im going to use my mix of foxfarm and technaflora b.c. line with kool bloom liquid and dry, oh yeah i cant wait to see your pineapple express at about 5 weeks into flower!!!!!!!!!!!
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
im glad things are turning out so well.. its nice to hear about the success of others i have helped with..

big bang is supposed to be a pretty good strain.. its on my list to get to sometime myself.. i have some issues with green house seeds tho.. but thats another story...

i am very happy with how fast my girls are vegging right now.. the autos are taking off like wildfire... and my photoperiod girls are looking like they will be nice and lush... i will post some pics in my journal in the next few days.. they are just normal veg pics.. but oh well..

i guess we both are looking forward to seeing the pineapple express.. i think i am most interested in watching that strain flower.. itll be about 3 months or so before its 5 weeks of flower tho..
 

trojans10

Member
Few questions:

1.) What do you think of "emilys garden" as a starter for my fridge grow? I would use it for flowering.

I have an aquarium that im going to use for vegging.

2.) Its snowing here and really cold. The fridge is inside the garage,and the temp inside the fridge is 54 degrees F (300 watt HPS light, w/ 2 75 watt flouros is on!!) I have a 6in fan as an exhaust on top and a 4in fan for intake on the bottom ( blowing cold air inside) Will a portable heater fix this issue, if I just put it next to my intake?

3.) Getting clones soon from a cannabis club. How long until I can start flowering it. Do most clubs sell "teens" by any chance? Should I call around and see who has them?

4.) TIPS? TIPS? TIPS? First time growing!

5.) Also...can you link me to a site where it explains how to transoplant clones to a hydroponic system. Is it easy?

THANKS MAN. I Appreciate it.
 
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