Seedling Sprout Large White Spots

[Xonos83]

Hello all,

I am a first time grower, doing my very first autoflower grow. I frequently read posts on this forum and decided to become part of the community since my growing has commenced!

I have a problem with my one seedling that I can't seem to find any posts relating exactly to this problem. I planted my seed in a jiffy peat pellet inside a humidity dome, with two large holes on top and a fan blowing down towards them. Temperature is between 80-86F and RH between 75-90% I also take the cover off for about 10 minutes a day for some fresh air. My seedling sprouted 2 days ago, and is currently in the state of the image attached. Since coming out of the ground, I've put a low power led light on it for 24 hours until the cotyledons fully open. There are these large white spots that take up almost all of the leaves, and is also white on the bottom half of the stem. Could anyone possibly shed some light on what might have/be causing this? Is there maybe something I'm doing wrong or should be doing differently? It almost appears to be mold, and has completely halted growth. You can see one of the cotyledons isn't fully open yet, it has been that way for about 10 hours now. Any insight would be greatly appreciated, and if you require any further info I would be happy to provide it!

 

[Red Eyed]

Medium possibly too soaked....I have had seedlings like this and grew fine once I corrected whatever problem but usually was because I watered too much for a small seedling.

 

[Xonos83]

Medium possibly too soaked....I have had seedlings like this and grew fine once I corrected whatever problem but usually was because I watered too much for a small seedling.

Thanks for the info! It's funny, I had a previous seed damp off from too much watering, and dramatically reduced watering amounts this time around. Perhaps I should push it a little further.

 

[hotrodharley]

Thanks for the info! It's funny, I had a previous seed damp off from too much watering, and dramatically reduced watering amounts this time around. Perhaps I should push it a little further.

Ditch the little peat things. Sow directly into the container it’s going to finish in. Be patient. Don’t overwater. Again ditch the little net things. They suck.

 

[Xonos83]

Ditch the little peat things. Sow directly into the container it’s going to finish in. Be patient. Don’t overwater. Again ditch the little net things. They suck.

I may very well consider that if I don't see an improvement. I may also start giving seedling appropriate nutrients as well (I didn't want to provide them too early). I won't be putting it into its final pot though, I will be following a guide provided on another site and will be potting up to promote root development, but yes I'm considering putting them into their first container. Thank you for your input, much appreciated!

 

[hotrodharley]

I may very well consider that if I don't see an improvement. I may also start giving seedling appropriate nutrients as well (I didn't want to provide them too early). I won't be putting it into its final pot though, I will be following a guide provided on another site and will be potting up to promote root development, but yes I'm considering putting them into their first container. Thank you for your input, much appreciated!

I predict disappointment doing that with an auto. Extremely effective with photos. Good luck.

 

[Red Eyed]

. I won't be putting it into its final pot though

When it comes to autos, go to final pot from the rip. Those couple days shock from transplant can hurt final yield. Just dont water the entire pot. Only around the stem base until she grows into the pot.

 

[Xonos83]

I predict disappointment doing that with an auto. Extremely effective with photos. Good luck.

You may very well be right, but that's a risk I'm willing to take. The transplant method is literally peeling away the fabric pot from the medium (which will be coco coir and perlite) and dropping the entire medium into a bigger pot with similarly PHed and ECed nutrient solution already applied. This method pretty well eliminates transplant/root shock, as there's no "excavation" per se, and the plant is going into a familiar medium/nutrient ratio. And if it does cause shock, it will be a lesson I will have to learn (I've got some more seeds from the same batch, I'll do it until I get it right lol). I have spent months planning and I have something pretty solid, fingers crossed that it will work out! I will provide pics and updates as the situation changes!

 

[Xonos83]

When it comes to autos, go to final pot from the rip. Those couple days shock from transplant can hurt final yield. Just dont water the entire pot. Only around the stem base until she grows into the pot.

I have read your advice in many places online, and as much as you may be 100% correct, my transplant method does not cause root shock (I explained it in a response on the previous comment). And if it does, I will learn from that mistake once I make it, lol. I have a pretty solid and detailed regime set up for the entire process, so if I make a mistake, I will learn for the next time (rather than change my process as I go, learn from the mistakes my first process made, and adjust for the second process, type of thing). I was really just aiming to diagnose this main problem I am having right now, and see if it can't be remedied and gotten past.

 

[Red Eyed]

I have read your advice in many places online, and as much as you may be 100% correct, my transplant method does not cause root shock (I explained it in a response on the previous comment). And if it does, I will learn from that mistake once I make it, lol. I have a pretty solid and detailed regime set up for the entire process, so if I make a mistake, I will learn for the next time (rather than change my process as I go, learn from the mistakes my first process made, and adjust for the second process, type of thing). I was really just aiming to diagnose this main problem I am having right now, and see if it can't be remedied and gotten past.

All good...good luck.

 

[curious2garden]

Hello all,

I am a first time grower, doing my very first autoflower grow. I frequently read posts on this forum and decided to become part of the community since my growing has commenced!

I have a problem with my one seedling that I can't seem to find any posts relating exactly to this problem. I planted my seed in a jiffy peat pellet inside a humidity dome, with two large holes on top and a fan blowing down towards them. Temperature is between 80-86F and RH between 75-90% I also take the cover off for about 10 minutes a day for some fresh air. My seedling sprouted 2 days ago, and is currently in the state of the image attached. Since coming out of the ground, I've put a low power led light on it for 24 hours until the cotyledons fully open. There are these large white spots that take up almost all of the leaves, and is also white on the bottom half of the stem. Could anyone possibly shed some light on what might have/be causing this? Is there maybe something I'm doing wrong or should be doing differently? View attachment 4749924It almost appears to be mold, and has completely halted growth. You can see one of the cotyledons isn't fully open yet, it has been that way for about 10 hours now. Any insight would be greatly appreciated, and if you require any further info I would be happy to provide it!

How close is your light, your plant's cotyledon looks burnt.

 

[Doug Dawson]

Hello all,

I am a first time grower, doing my very first autoflower grow. I frequently read posts on this forum and decided to become part of the community since my growing has commenced!

I have a problem with my one seedling that I can't seem to find any posts relating exactly to this problem. I planted my seed in a jiffy peat pellet inside a humidity dome, with two large holes on top and a fan blowing down towards them. Temperature is between 80-86F and RH between 75-90% I also take the cover off for about 10 minutes a day for some fresh air. My seedling sprouted 2 days ago, and is currently in the state of the image attached. Since coming out of the ground, I've put a low power led light on it for 24 hours until the cotyledons fully open. There are these large white spots that take up almost all of the leaves, and is also white on the bottom half of the stem. Could anyone possibly shed some light on what might have/be causing this? Is there maybe something I'm doing wrong or should be doing differently? View attachment 4749924It almost appears to be mold, and has completely halted growth. You can see one of the cotyledons isn't fully open yet, it has been that way for about 10 hours now. Any insight would be greatly appreciated, and if you require any further info I would be happy to provide it!

I like to use coco pellets. They have great drainage and there is always O2 available. I also see no real issues with transplanting autos, just make sure the pot they are going into is charged the same with the same nute concentration you are using and don't hurt the roots. There should be no issues with transplant shock if done that way. That said there are many ways to get to the destination, this is just what works for me.

 

[jimihendrix1]

Id say main thing is dont let it get rootbound. While I dont grow autos, I can see where letting the roots get anywhere near rootbound could lead to a real shock to the plant considering theres little room for error growing them anyway.

I also agree it looks overwatered.

I myself started using the Jiffy 7 pellets back in the 70s-80s, and always had great success with them, but Ive moved away from that, and use Promix BX, in whatever size container I decide to use.
Uline 32oz Deli/Soup Containers is what Ive been using for a while now. Theyre cheap for how big they are, and how many you get. 500 for about $100 and $30 Shipping or something. Its a lifetime supply for me. The soup containers are very stable.

Also what Light are you using???? Plants need strong light to kick up the metabolism, and make them start to use water. If they just sit there and dont have strong light, they may damp off. They wont have strong stimulation and have no reason to grow fast. They basically need all the light you can give them. How bright is the sun?? At 9000ft in the Andes Mountain? Or Himalayas?? Also heavy amounts of UVA/B.

Weed only needs a very few things, and to deviate from any one of them, edges towards less than optimum results.

All weed needs is strong light, good soil/medium. Knowing what, when, and how much to feed, and water, good ventilation, of which they are going to get in nature.

Be nice to have temps 78f-84f, 60% humidity. But really good airflow goes a long way. Cant stress air/ventilation enough. Strong Light.

Thats it.

When using LED consider this.

It takes around 40.3w sq/ft of the very best LED to equal the best single ended HID, which is a Hortilux 1000w HPS. 1600umol, and is rated for a 4 x 4 area, and has been the commercial standard for over 20 years.

The Gavita 1700e is 645w-1700umol and is made to replace what was the Hortilux 1000w HID in a 4 x 4 area. So figure it takes 630w-645w of the very best Samsung/Osram Diodes to equal the Hortilux HPS.

Consider Gavita recommends one use the 1700e to cover a 4 x 4 area and is an exact 1 to 1 replacement for a 1000w HID.... Thats 40.3w Sq/Ft. Not my opinion, just using the guidelines used when they conceived their commercial bulb. The very first light the 1600i was 1600umol, equaling the Hortilux, and now beats it by 100 umol.

So figure out your sq/ft, and apply the correct lighting. w-sq/ft. Samsun/Osram Diodes. Try and get all the air flow possible, and keep a small breeze on them 24/7. They get a constant breeze outside right?? Makes the plant much stronger.

How far is your light from the plant??

I use either a Gavita 1700e, or 1000w Hortilux at no more than 24 inches from the beginning. Gavita 1150w at 36in- 40 inches. Hardcore Sativas can take much more light.

 

[Xonos83]

How close is your light, your plant's cotyledon looks burnt.

I have been adjusting between 16" and 28", with no signs of stretching. Should I raise my light higher? I am using a true 120W full spectrum LED panel, set to veg only. I have a higher powered one I will be replacing it with once the plant can handle it.

I should also mention, the cotyledons were that color even before a light was applied (although they were more whitish in color at first).

 

[Doug Dawson]

I have been adjusting between 16" and 28", with no signs of stretching. Should I raise my light higher? I am using a true 120W full spectrum LED panel, set to veg only. I have a higher powered one I will be replacing it with once the plant can handle it.

I should also mention, the cotyledons were that color even before a light was applied (although they were more whitish in color at first).

Light should be fine with no stretching. That 120w led is likely only around 60w if you have half of it turned off. They did look a bit fried but if that happened before light on than probably not an issue. It did look like it was a bit cooked.

 

[jimihendrix1]

You need more/stronger light IMHO, and Id have the one you have down closer. I run a 635w Gavita 1700e at no more than 24 inches. I also run a 1000w HID at 24 inches, or closer. Depends if I can keep the temps at 84f or less for the HID.... In the mid fall- mid spring no problem. I also have really good air flow.

Think about how bright the sun is at the equator, at noon, on a clear day, at 3000ft-9000ft and contemplate your light.

What Diodes. Watts dont tell the whole story. But you need way more light. That light, especially at that distance is like trying to grow weed at Dusk.

 

[Xonos83]

I like to use coco pellets. They have great drainage and there is always O2 available. I also see no real issues with transplanting autos, just make sure the pot they are going into is charged the same with the same nute concentration you are using and don't hurt the roots. There should be no issues with transplant shock if done that way. That said there are many ways to get to the destination, this is just what works for me.

I couldn't agree more! So long as you're super careful and everything is identical when switched, technically there shouldn't be an issue. Thank you for confirming this! I'll have to try those coco pellets. To Amazon! Lol

 

[curious2garden]

I have been adjusting between 16" and 28", with no signs of stretching. Should I raise my light higher? I am using a true 120W full spectrum LED panel, set to veg only. I have a higher powered one I will be replacing it with once the plant can handle it.

I should also mention, the cotyledons were that color even before a light was applied (although they were more whitish in color at first).

Yes until they are a little older. Although you will need more light, seedlings need very little. Cotyledons are white before being exposed to light but that cotyledon is burnt and since jiffy pellets contain zero nutrient I believe it's your light.

 

[Xonos83]

Id say main thing is dont let it get rootbound. While I dont grow autos, I can see where letting the roots get anywhere near rootbound could lead to a real shock to the plant considering theres little room for error growing them anyway.

I also agree it looks overwatered.

I myself started using the Jiffy 7 pellets back in the 70s-80s, and always had great success with them, but Ive moved away from that, and use Promix BX, in whatever size container I decide to use.
Uline 32oz Deli/Soup Containers is what Ive been using for a while now. Theyre cheap for how big they are, and how many you get. 500 for about $100 and $30 Shipping or something. Its a lifetime supply for me. The soup containers are very stable.

Also what Light are you using???? Plants need strong light to kick up the metabolism, and make them start to use water. If they just sit there and dont have strong light, they may damp off. They wont have strong stimulation and have no reason to grow fast. They basically need all the light you can give them. How bright is the sun?? At 9000ft in the Andes Mountain? Or Himalayas?? Also heavy amounts of UVA/B.

Weed only needs a very few things, and to deviate from any one of them, edges towards less than optimum results.

All weed needs is strong light, good soil/medium. Knowing what, when, and how much to feed, and water, good ventilation, of which they are going to get in nature.

Be nice to have temps 78f-84f, 60% humidity. But really good airflow goes a long way. Cant stress air/ventilation enough. Strong Light.

Thats it.

When using LED consider this.

It takes around 40.3w sq/ft of the very best LED to equal the best single ended HID, which is a Hortilux 1000w HPS. 1600umol, and is rated for a 4 x 4 area, and has been the commercial standard for over 20 years.

The Gavita 1700e is 645w-1700umol and is made to replace what was the Hortilux 1000w HID in a 4 x 4 area. So figure it takes 630w-645w of the very best Samsung/Osram Diodes to equal the Hortilux HPS.

Consider Gavita recommends one use the 1700e to cover a 4 x 4 area and is an exact 1 to 1 replacement for a 1000w HID.... Thats 40.3w Sq/Ft. Not my opinion, just using the guidelines used when they conceived their commercial bulb. The very first light the 1600i was 1600umol, equaling the Hortilux, and now beats it by 100 umol.

So figure out your sq/ft, and apply the correct lighting. w-sq/ft. Samsun/Osram Diodes. Try and get all the air flow possible, and keep a small breeze on them 24/7. They get a constant breeze outside right?? Makes the plant much stronger.

How far is your light from the plant??

I use either a Gavita 1700e, or 1000w Hortilux at no more than 24 inches from the beginning. Gavita 1150w at 36in- 40 inches. Hardcore Sativas can take much more light.

Wow, thanks for the informative response! I shall drink in that info and process! My light is a true 130W full spectrum LED, set to veg, between 16-28" above (been going in between to see if there is any change). I have a much stronger true 350W full spectrum white cob LED, I figured it might be too strong right now. Grow tent is 3x3x6 (35"x35"x72"). I had done all of the research and measuring required for everything you mentioned, and made up my list as per those specs. In theory, I should have what's needed, I just don't know which direction to try. Also have an updated pic coming right now! Thanks again for your input man, very informative!

 

[Xonos83]

Light should be fine with no stretching. That 120w led is likely only around 60w if you have half of it turned off. They did look a bit fried but if that happened before light on than probably not an issue. It did look like it was a bit cooked.

Oh no this is true 120W, it's rated as 600W lol. I did my homework