Strudelheim
Well-Known Member
Well I only have a little bit left, and its pricey, i rather stretch it out....
Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread
- Thread starter headtreep
- Start date
Miyagismokes
Well-Known Member
That's not how pesticides work.
You'll make your bugs resistant that way.
Instead of putting a bunch of shit in one spray, spray each one independently; rotate through your weapons.
Neem oil, three days later garlic water, three days later chili pepper, cinnamon, so on and so forth.
Remember to hit the soil surface, thrips love to drop to the ground when disturbed.
ILGM Will
Member
One good way to repel thrips for those growing outside is to use garlic,
this is a good way to keep them away before you get them. The color
yellow attracts the thrips and should be advised not to have this color
around your grow.. If you already have them using neem oil, and or lady
bugs can get rid of them. If the infestation is bad then you need to
use biological solution like, pyrethrin-like insecticides.
Other Products include:
Chemicals
Hot Pepper Wax,Safer Yard & Garden Insecticide (which can be used right
to the day of harvest),GNATROL( used in hydro in the water as well as soil)
,Doc's Neem Pest Soap,Safer Sticky Stakes,TR-11000 Pyrethrum.
Strudelheim
Well-Known Member
Thanks will, yeah its no sweat, the spinosad, based on my research is the best thing against them, and it is just as bacteria culture, so also natural/organic. I grow in my house and everything is fairly open so predator bugs is not an option, they will be all over the house. Spinosad was ordered awhile ago, arriving on Monday.
Miyagismokes
Well-Known Member
Predator mites don't really migrate that much, can't fly, and they're tiny. That way you don't have to live in a cloud of ladybugs and lacewings.
Chronikool
Well-Known Member
'Black Power Candy Bars' - Day 57 in ROLS
SCJedi
Well-Known Member
Sprayed again with essential oils tonight. Aloe 200x, neem oil, karanja oil, clove oil, Rosemary oil, and cinnamon. With bronners peppermint as a surfactant and Power Si as an emulsifier. Backyard smells pretty good. Neighbor commented on last week's cinnamon oil heavy spraying.
With respect to the tomato beetles that we're crushing my mater's there was no spray that would phase them. What worked was a diatomaceous earth coating left on for a week. I just sprayed it off with the clove oil run so we will see what it looks like when I return from The Gorge.
With respect to the tomato beetles that we're crushing my mater's there was no spray that would phase them. What worked was a diatomaceous earth coating left on for a week. I just sprayed it off with the clove oil run so we will see what it looks like when I return from The Gorge.
NugHeuser
Well-Known Member
Hey guys I'm new to rols and have a question, hoping people can help me understand what's going on.
I mixed up a batch with 2 to 3 cups(dont remember which one I went with and can't find any notes on it) of amendment per cu.ft.
Started the plants in ffof, transplanted to 1gal with the super soil, plants showed extreme happiness in that soil, going off of the leaves, then were transplanted in 2 to 3 gal with more of the super soil and put into flower.
A few have showed some slightly burnt tips, most have been a lush green with extreme praying.
Now here about 3 to 4 weeks into flower I'm starting to see some deficiencies, I figured that to be normal.
However I've got a few clones that were thrown into flower a week after rooting so they're smaller plants, used the super soil with them, they seemed to loved it, they're about 5 weeks in now with some progressing deficiencies that I've been trying to correct with no luck, so I decided to check runoff ppm in case of lockout, although these never did show signs of N tox, or dark green leaves, or burnt tips so I figured I'd be getting a real low runoff ppm. They were between 2 and 3 thousand ppms!!
So I decided to check the runoff of several plants, including ones with zero tip burn, the healthiest plants I've ever had, which like I said above they're starting to lose a few lower leaves over deficiencies, I figured they have depleted a lot of their nutes, even my great looking plants are showing into the 3000s! A few plants I gave a shot or two of bud candy and bloom booster but no way that any should have salt build up.
So this brings me to my question.
How are my ppms that high, WITHOUT tip burn or noticable toxicity, WHILE starting to show progressive deficiencies and still looking happy and healthy??
Do I have way too hot of soil or does rols give off high runoff ppm like that?
If my soil was too hot you'd think I'd have burnt tips and unhealthy plants.
So now I dont know if I need to feed more or give heavy plain waterings!?
If anyone can please fill me in on this, my plants look great but things could go south quick because I really have no idea what's going on. I know when growing with liquid nutes you never want your runoff that high.
Disclaimer, some of these plants are also only a week or two into flower and maybe one or two low leaves showing a yellow edge, otherwise happy, but still with 3000 ppm, and those ones have got zero liquid nutes thus far.
Appreciate anyone and everyones help!
The clones, started showing deficiencies about a week and a half ago. They aren't dropping any leaves but show discoloring. If the soils too hot then why would they have been tickled pink the first 3 weeks? 3000 ppms.
A couple plants lower deficiencies.
The same plant pictured above with deficiencies, this is the plant that's kitty corner to the front pot in the above pic, about 2 and a half weeks in I believe.
I dont get it, ppm's in the thousands. Feed or flush?
I mixed up a batch with 2 to 3 cups(dont remember which one I went with and can't find any notes on it) of amendment per cu.ft.
Started the plants in ffof, transplanted to 1gal with the super soil, plants showed extreme happiness in that soil, going off of the leaves, then were transplanted in 2 to 3 gal with more of the super soil and put into flower.
A few have showed some slightly burnt tips, most have been a lush green with extreme praying.
Now here about 3 to 4 weeks into flower I'm starting to see some deficiencies, I figured that to be normal.
However I've got a few clones that were thrown into flower a week after rooting so they're smaller plants, used the super soil with them, they seemed to loved it, they're about 5 weeks in now with some progressing deficiencies that I've been trying to correct with no luck, so I decided to check runoff ppm in case of lockout, although these never did show signs of N tox, or dark green leaves, or burnt tips so I figured I'd be getting a real low runoff ppm. They were between 2 and 3 thousand ppms!!
So I decided to check the runoff of several plants, including ones with zero tip burn, the healthiest plants I've ever had, which like I said above they're starting to lose a few lower leaves over deficiencies, I figured they have depleted a lot of their nutes, even my great looking plants are showing into the 3000s! A few plants I gave a shot or two of bud candy and bloom booster but no way that any should have salt build up.
So this brings me to my question.
How are my ppms that high, WITHOUT tip burn or noticable toxicity, WHILE starting to show progressive deficiencies and still looking happy and healthy??
Do I have way too hot of soil or does rols give off high runoff ppm like that?
If my soil was too hot you'd think I'd have burnt tips and unhealthy plants.
So now I dont know if I need to feed more or give heavy plain waterings!?
If anyone can please fill me in on this, my plants look great but things could go south quick because I really have no idea what's going on. I know when growing with liquid nutes you never want your runoff that high.
Disclaimer, some of these plants are also only a week or two into flower and maybe one or two low leaves showing a yellow edge, otherwise happy, but still with 3000 ppm, and those ones have got zero liquid nutes thus far.
Appreciate anyone and everyones help!
The clones, started showing deficiencies about a week and a half ago. They aren't dropping any leaves but show discoloring. If the soils too hot then why would they have been tickled pink the first 3 weeks? 3000 ppms.
A couple plants lower deficiencies.
The same plant pictured above with deficiencies, this is the plant that's kitty corner to the front pot in the above pic, about 2 and a half weeks in I believe.
I dont get it, ppm's in the thousands. Feed or flush?
NugHeuser
Well-Known Member
Also, the plant behind the temp/rh gauge that is all curled was just watered and had flat leaves before that. Although I did just notice on that particular plant a leaf either showing n tox or wind burn. I do have my active intake blowing in under the canopy so I'm not sure which, I'll have to take a closer look at it.
NugHeuser
Well-Known Member
The same plant that was curled and drooped after watering, now after some time has passed she's tickled pink to be alive, flo x stardawg, smells like blueberries.
Back to the point, maybe the "livingness" of the soil accounts for much of the ppms and is just a bit misleading?
Back to the point, maybe the "livingness" of the soil accounts for much of the ppms and is just a bit misleading?
Spondylo Grow
Well-Known Member
You mention checking the runoff and measuring your ppm, but did you check the Ph of the runoff also? Do you ph the water you feed them?
NugHeuser
Well-Known Member
I meant to check the ph but forgot. I'll check it on ones I water tomorrow.
Most times I dont have to ph the water, it usually comes out right around 6.2 ish.
I got the soil into the proper ph range before using it.
I've heard many people say that you dont have to ph because the soil buffers it, I dont know if that's true or not. I've just been going off the color coordinated ph test, when it looks like it might be flirting with under 6 I adjust and when it reads light green(which is a ph of 7 on my kit) I adjust.
I'll check the ph runoff with my ph pen though to get an accurate reading.
Spondylo Grow
Well-Known Member
That is where I would begin. I would also monitor the ph of the water you are putting in, to see if any fluctuation. I had a ph lockout that showed similar symptoms. Checked my runoff and it was in the middle 7's. I calibrated my pen, which was also off, by almost a full point.Started watering with around 6.1 (true reading now) water and got my runoff back down to low 6's, and the plants bounced right back, drastically improving. I hear/see the same about not having to check for ph with organic soil or whatever, but I don't know. It takes only a minute to check and a cheap ph pen, and I feel much better about things when I use it.
NugHeuser
Well-Known Member
Yeah my pens a bit wonky, needs to be replaced. It'll get down to the correct reading(comparing to the color tests) but just takes a min or two and I sometimes gotta whip it around it the water a bit.
Directions say you should clean the globe part after each use, dont know how I'm suppose to do that when its surrounded by plastic lol
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
NugHeuser
Well-Known Member
@Spondylo Grow
So are you in the opinion that ppms that high is normal for living soil then?
So are you in the opinion that ppms that high is normal for living soil then?
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
I don’t pH at all, personally.
Spondylo Grow
Well-Known Member
I've never checked the ppms of my runoff, so not really sure.
I just have the cheapest one that they sell on amazon. Yellow, very cheap. It needs calibrated, but it comes with the solution to do it.
Chunky Stool
Well-Known Member
I use a cheap PH pen and it always drifts up.
So I check it with tap water before using it and just do the math.
Today it's 1.4 high, so a reading of 7 - 7.5 should put me in the ballpark.
Miyagismokes
Well-Known Member
Nice. I wish my tap was stable enough to do that, then I could stop pretending like I store my probe correctly.
I suppose I could just also use the drops to get the daily baseline...