Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

[Mohican]

Wood chips should be readily available almost everywhere. People are cutting down trees all the time!

 

[Midwest Weedist]

Anyone here ever ran an organic sog in a soil bed? I'm testing a couple strains and I think it may end up easier for me to work with 20+ cuttings in a bed instead of multiple planters, etc.

 

[4ftRoots]

Anyone here ever ran an organic sog in a soil bed? I'm testing a couple strains and I think it may end up easier for me to work with 20+ cuttings in a bed instead of multiple planters, etc.

I may be the wrong person to answer since I always fail at SOG but I have a 30 gallon planter that I tried a sog in. It measured 21x21 inches and had 5 plants. Turned out to be a mess because tying them down required tying to other plants and even though the plants were same strain the did not grow uniform. Just my experiences. The lettuce I harvested before planting in the pot was good tho

 

[Midwest Weedist]

I may be the wrong person to answer since I always fail at SOG but I have a 30 gallon planter that I tried a sog in. It measured 21x21 inches and had 5 plants. Turned out to be a mess because tying them down required tying to other plants and even though the plants were same strain the did not grow uniform. Just my experiences. The lettuce I harvested before planting in the pot was good tho

How long did you veg your clones before planting them and how big were they?
I've got about a month and a half to make up my mind. All my seedlings are still only 3 weeks old, so I still have to sex and everything else before I get to flowering clones.
Ideally I'd like to veg well rooted ~8inch clones for 10-14 days then flower. I'm testing genetics so I'm not chasing yield in any regards. Though I am excited to have some blueberry genetics in my headstash!

 

[4ftRoots]

How long did you veg your clones before planting them and how big were they?
I've got about a month and a half to make up my mind. All my seedlings are still only 3 weeks old, so I still have to sex and everything else before I get to flowering clones.
Ideally I'd like to veg well rooted ~8inch clones for 10-14 days then flower. I'm testing genetics so I'm not chasing yield in any regards. Though I am excited to have some blueberry genetics in my headstash!

I planted the clones at 6 inches high and flowered at 10-12 inches. I'd say for my room height that is tall enough. Mine always stretch a lot, about 2 feet min but of course not the same genetics. If your not looking for yield and instead genetics then SOG would be best for comparison and all that. Just be careful of the stretch it gets out of hand for me in sog. But then again this isn't my only hobby. How big is the soil bed? can you access all sides of it?

 

[Midwest Weedist]

I planted the clones at 6 inches high and flowered at 10-12 inches. I'd say for my room height that is tall enough. Mine always stretch a lot, about 2 feet min but of course not the same genetics. If your not looking for yield and instead genetics then SOG would be best for comparison and all that. Just be careful of the stretch it gets out of hand for me in sog. But then again this isn't my only hobby. How big is the soil bed? can you access all sides of it?

If I build a soil bed(s) ideally I'd like at a bare minimum of two gallons per clone, maybe 3 or 4 if I have the space. I like the idea of one soil bed per strain but that may end up not working out. Especially if I've got 20+ cuttings to work with at a time. In my mind currently I have the idea of buying some of the rectangular pvc pipe fabric planters bas sells, I'd have to double check their sizes though. Height shouldn't be an issue as I'm moving soon and will have a dedicated room for this project (instead of sleeping in the same room as my flowering tent), so at least 6ft from soil to light. I should be able to access three sides of it/them, if anything I'll just have to reach around a backside or something.

 

[DonPetro]

Anyone here ever ran an organic sog in a soil bed? I'm testing a couple strains and I think it may end up easier for me to work with 20+ cuttings in a bed instead of multiple planters, etc.

I think @DonTesla did something similar...maybe he can help.

 

[Kind Sir]

My plan for my first run with organics was going to be using subcools revised recipe. Ive been told not too by a few people, I am in the middle of sourcing the ingredients but dont want to start organics off on the wrong foot.

I am making my own worm bin, and dedicating a whole bedroom to this project. I already have Ocean Forest but might just order some Roots Organic to keep things by the book. I know it could take a few months to have the soil completely ready so I want to start it asap for the nice winter months.
Im very excited about the worm bin and organics in general, Im not necessarily looking for a recipe..just as to why subcools revised SS isnt the way to go?

 

[4ftRoots]

If I build a soil bed(s) ideally I'd like at a bare minimum of two gallons per clone, maybe 3 or 4 if I have the space. I like the idea of one soil bed per strain but that may end up not working out. Especially if I've got 20+ cuttings to work with at a time. In my mind currently I have the idea of buying some of the rectangular pvc pipe fabric planters bas sells, I'd have to double check their sizes though. Height shouldn't be an issue as I'm moving soon and will have a dedicated room for this project (instead of sleeping in the same room as my flowering tent), so at least 6ft from soil to light. I should be able to access three sides of it/them, if anything I'll just have to reach around a backside or something.

I would at least keep the soil bed whole so you don't have to worry about the soil web, water, and nutrients falling short. You can also plant cover crops to increase production, I love yarrow and chamomile(clover attracts mites!). I've experienced with sog that reaching around the back to deal with plants will become a big pain, but I hate hard work lol. It will become a high humidity microclimate after the plants fill in and any changes or moving from there is hell. I'm not sure if you decided on spacing but 7 inch spacing with a foot of pot height would make them happy as all get out. And a foot and a half height would be gardening without effort

 

[Joedank]

My plan for my first run with organics was going to be using subcools revised recipe. Ive been told not too by a few people, I am in the middle of sourcing the ingredients but dont want to start organics off on the wrong foot.

I am making my own worm bin, and dedicating a whole bedroom to this project. I already have Ocean Forest but might just order some Roots Organic to keep things by the book. I know it could take a few months to have the soil completely ready so I want to start it asap for the nice winter months.
Im very excited about the worm bin and organics in general, Im not necessarily looking for a recipe..just as to why subcools revised SS isnt the way to go?

i just avoid the blood and bone (execpt fish) and its a good recipie. bottom half of container then rest roots soil ... bam good start in organics . and just add water gardening.... the 1/3, 1/3,1/3 mix is fine and dandy for later but . its easy to cook up a batch of supersoil and have a great grow...

 

[coughphee.connoiseur]

Mo, have you ever tried soluble seaweed and micronized soft rock phosphate? My peppers are really digging the combo. I add 1/2 tsp of each per gallon of water and apply every other watering.

Don any recommendations on reliable source for the soluble seaweed? Currently using Neptune's harvest seaweed fertilizer if that will do ? and for SRP I'm using calphos. Drop some knowledge on me if you don't mind, I'm open.

 

[Midwest Weedist]

I would at least keep the soil bed whole so you don't have to worry about the soil web, water, and nutrients falling short. You can also plant cover crops to increase production, I love yarrow and chamomile(clover attracts mites!). I've experienced with sog that reaching around the back to deal with plants will become a big pain, but I hate hard work lol. It will become a high humidity microclimate after the plants fill in and any changes or moving from there is hell. I'm not sure if you decided on spacing but 7 inch spacing with a foot of pot height would make them happy as all get out. And a foot and a half height would be gardening without effort

I'm thinking of running one 3ft x 3ft x 12in (deep) fabric bed for all of the cuts. If my math is right it's approximately 57 dry gallons if filled to the brim. So after sexing that should leave me with around 2 - 3 gallons per clone even if I only have about 45-50 gallons of soil in it. I also considered running two of BAS' 36" x 16" x 14" deep fabric planters, but one seems easier to manage.

Aside from that, has anyone ever meddled with cmh much? I've been pondering getting a small wattage one just to play around with. I've heard the spectrum is great from seed to bloom, but I've only messed with mh/hps.

 

[greasemonkeymann]

I'm thinking of running one 3ft x 3ft x 12in (deep) fabric bed for all of the cuts. If my math is right it's approximately 57 dry gallons if filled to the brim. So after sexing that should leave me with around 2 - 3 gallons per clone even if I only have about 45-50 gallons of soil in it. I also considered running two of BAS' 36" x 16" x 14" deep fabric planters, but one seems easier to manage.

Aside from that, has anyone ever meddled with cmh much? I've been pondering getting a small wattage one just to play around with. I've heard the spectrum is great from seed to bloom, but I've only messed with mh/hps.

I have been contemplating a CMH for a while now, even started a thread, bit nobody responded...
Issue I have is mainly the HUGE difference in lumen output.
I'd use a CMH in conjunction with HPS, from what I have researched.
Just NOT as a sole source of light unless you are doing a small grow.
Also take your glass off if you decide to get one, it absorbs/reflects the uv..
I deally I am looking at two 600w hps, and one 400 CMH, in the middle.
BUT 1600 watts, plus the ballasts and you are damn near pushing 2k watts...
and I KNOW what two 1000s can do...
If I recall correctly the CMH puts out around a third of the lumens or less than a typical 600 w
and like half of what a normal 400w hps does.
This is all of memory though, but I remember the lumens being why I haven't got it yet.

 

[4ftRoots]

I'm thinking of running one 3ft x 3ft x 12in (deep) fabric bed for all of the cuts. If my math is right it's approximately 57 dry gallons if filled to the brim. So after sexing that should leave me with around 2 - 3 gallons per clone even if I only have about 45-50 gallons of soil in it. I also considered running two of BAS' 36" x 16" x 14" deep fabric planters, but one seems easier to manage.

Aside from that, has anyone ever meddled with cmh much? I've been pondering getting a small wattage one just to play around with. I've heard the spectrum is great from seed to bloom, but I've only messed with mh/hps.

Can't wait to hear about it! I ran CMH before I went to Cree CXA 3070 and it was ok. I did not run bare bulb and got a pound off four plants in a 4x4. I only ran it once or twice. I was dying to switch because I hated buying bulbs. Probably better than hps/mh mix but I have never had a mixed spectrum bulb.

 

[Mohican]

Scottyballs was using CMH the whole way through and getting a pound off of a Hydrofarm Pineapple Express plant grown with only Flora Nova Bloom (Lucas formula).

 

[ShLUbY]

Hey everybody, going to try and giving living soil a trial run for a 3 run test to see how i do. I'm going to set up a garden bed on castors in my flower tent that can accommodate 2-3 small to medium plants in a single row (unless it is more beneficial to have them in their own separate containers but it would seem to me it's more natural and easier to do a whole bed). I just want to cut the plant, remove the large roots, fill in with compost, casting, rock dust mix and replant asap. Just had a couple questions...

What are the best sources for micronutrients when growing in living soil?? does the compost supply a lot of them? I'm talking the B, Cu, Mn, Mb, Cl, all that stuff. I've been looking at kelp meal but can't seem to find any info as to what micronutrients it provides (among the other things but i'm more insterested in the micros so my nutrient profile is complete). i'll be using oyster shell dust for Ca. How about magnesium... should i just water in epsom salts? I'm going to be including the rock dust trace minerals: azomite, and some form of basaltic (volcanic) rock dust, maybe even the glacial too; why the hell not?

I can't seem to find a good local compost.... is there a high enough quality brand name alternative that you guys know of at a decent deal to ship (though this is not preferred, I'd rather buy local).

that will be all for now. dont want to overwhelm anyone! Thanks

 

[Midwest Weedist]

Hey everybody, going to try and giving living soil a trial run for a 3 run test to see how i do. I'm going to set up a garden bed on castors in my flower tent that can accommodate 2-3 small to medium plants in a single row (unless it is more beneficial to have them in their own separate containers but it would seem to me it's more natural and easier to do a whole bed). I just want to cut the plant, remove the large roots, fill in with compost, casting, rock dust mix and replant asap. Just had a couple questions...

What are the best sources for micronutrients when growing in living soil?? does the compost supply a lot of them? I'm talking the B, Cu, Mn, Mb, Cl, all that stuff. I've been looking at kelp meal but can't seem to find any info as to what micronutrients it provides (among the other things but i'm more insterested in the micros so my nutrient profile is complete). i'll be using oyster shell dust for Ca. How about magnesium... should i just water in epsom salts? I'm going to be including the rock dust trace minerals: azomite, and some form of basaltic (volcanic) rock dust, maybe even the glacial too; why the hell not?

I can't seem to find a good local compost.... is there a high enough quality brand name alternative that you guys know of at a decent deal to ship (though this is not preferred, I'd rather buy local).

that will be all for now. dont want to overwhelm anyone! Thanks

If you absolutely have to order compost go with Oly Mountain, Buildasoil sells them cheap for online. Their vermicompost is top notch too. For micros I rely on kelp and good compost. Spring water, pond water, etc can have a couple of things like Ca in it.

 

[testiclees]

anyone out there ever use AMAZE foliar spray to boost brix in a organic grow?

Ya, i use most of the IAG stuff. Most important points about high brix: you need to soil test and you cant be thinking compost is manna.

I dont think amaze is organic, but not positive.

@hyroot , pretty sure doc bud and co are the cannabis high brix leaders. they do not use molasses at all for at least 2 reasons : 1- it is high in K. K is kept at minimal levels in high brix and for that reason most compost is also not useful. 2-molasses is a food source for the biota. In high brix growing the goal is to develop a biological soil dynamic where the dominant microorganisms are digesting minerals for nourishment and not sugar.

 

[hyroot]

Ya, i use most of the IAG stuff. Most important points about high brix: you need to soil test and you cant be thinking compost is manna.

I dont think amaze is organic, but not positive.

@hyroot , pretty sure doc bud and co are the cannabis high brix leaders. they do not use molasses at all for at least 2 reasons : 1- it is high in K. K is kept at minimal levels in high brix and for that reason most compost is also not useful. 2-molasses is a food source for the biota. In high brix growing the goal is to develop a biological soil dynamic where the dominant microorganisms are digesting minerals for nourishment and not sugar.

What happens to potassium when it breaks down... look it up. There's also plenty of sugars in molasses which is the food stock and does raise brix levels by increasing bacteria population and utilizing trace minerals already in molasses via chelating. If you dig around early on in this thread you will see the Harvard studies on molasses and water and plants i posted.

Btw I use corn seed sst for raising brix levels . I only use molasses once or twice and that's it.

If you don't think molasses raises brix levels I highly suggest getting a brix meter and test it.

I already have a long time ago. And documented in one of my threads. @GreenSanta did as well.

 

[VTMi'kmaq]

Do you have a good link that goes over this in a bit more detail?



I do have access to lots of old wood, I just don't have a means of breaking it down. I don't have a chipper or chainsaw unfortunately. I'm actually getting ready to experiment with some hagelkultur raised beds for my vegi garden because of this.

Would waste paper products suffice? I had been planning on just setting the leaves in their own pile this year so I can get some leaf mold.

Call a local arborist(tree service) and ask them for some woodchips from the chipper.