Uh...it was just 90 degrees in there...

Thundercat

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
Nizza said:
Lol I thought u were in a 11x12 but your in a 4x8..
Way too much light is ur issue. I would do 600w for both never more and try that I mean 400w is good for a 4x4 so you'd be well above the amount of light you need , you can keep the lenses on and lights closer or lenses off it's the same to me lol

When the summer hits use LEDs or 400w lights lol

If you arnt sealed growing ac will just be throwing money out the window
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I wasn't even gonna comment on this thread becAuse you've been given pretty good advice so far.

However this quote is just bad advice. 400w is not even close to enough light for a 4x4 space. You can't get the correct spread or intensity.

To the OP if the lights are on a separate vent system that's a good start, though it seemed like you've got 8 inch ducting on everything and your pulling air with a 6inch fan? Also I'd you lights are sucking in smelly air you can use the metal duct sealing tape from the hardware store to cover and cracks or seams with a gap on the hoods.

Now if your hoods are not sucking air from inside the room, and your still having heat issues then actually venting the room and getting that air moving is the next step. Setup a second exhaust this time with a carbon filter that just blow out into the11x12 outer room. And at the opposite end on the bottom of the tent open up your intake flaps on tent. This will draw cooler air in the bottom and exhaust the hot out the top.

Once you have a properly set up intake and exhaust it will give you much better temp control. If the 11x12 outer room has a window in it you could even put a AC in there and cool that room more before you pull the cool air into the tent.
 
Thundercat

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
Kingrow1 said:
And just to clarify for those air cooled reflectors dont make any difference to the heat radiation the plant feels so technically do not cool anything.

#barebulbclub :-)
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Sorry but that's wrong. Air cooled reflectors definitely reduce the amount of heat that gets released into the environment if they are cooled properly.

I dont know where you get some of the shit you post Kingrow. Sometimes your really on point, then other times you open your mouth and you spit this nonsense.
 
Bigworm4201982

Bigworm4201982

Member
Thundercat said:
Sorry but that's wrong. Air cooled reflectors definitely reduce the amount of heat that gets released into the environment if they are cooled properly.

I dont know where you get some of the shit you post Kingrow. Sometimes your really on point, then other times you open your mouth and you spit this nonsense.
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If i open my glass my room quickly climbs to 92-98 with a 18000btu mindow unit in the room. Glass saved my ass.
 
Thundercat

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
Bigworm4201982 said:
If i open my glass my room quickly climbs to 92-98 with a 18000btu mindow unit in the room. Glass saved my ass.
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Yep the only way glass doesn't reduce heat is if you aren't actually cooling it. I've read that glass can cause a 10% light reduction, but I'll gladly take that for the added heat control. My 1k sits 14 inches above my canopy and my plants love it. No heat issues, and with it nice and close I'm not loosing intensity to the inverse square law.
 
Bigworm4201982

Bigworm4201982

Member
Thundercat said:
Yep the only way glass doesn't reduce heat is if you aren't actually cooling it. I've read that glass can cause a 10% light reduction, but I'll gladly take that for the added heat control. My 1k sits 14 inches above my canopy and my plants love it. No heat issues, and with it nice and close I'm not loosing intensity to the inverse square law.
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Ive been thinking about ducting a older portable ac unit into my intake for the lights and see how much closer i can bring the lights, i envision a xxl raptor with a 1000hps at 2 inchs off the canopy on a lightrail making it even better. I run my lights now about 10 inchs from canopy
 
Roger A. Shrubber

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
Thundercat said:
Yep the only way glass doesn't reduce heat is if you aren't actually cooling it. I've read that glass can cause a 10% light reduction, but I'll gladly take that for the added heat control. My 1k sits 14 inches above my canopy and my plants love it. No heat issues, and with it nice and close I'm not loosing intensity to the inverse square law.
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more like 2%....thick leaded glass may block slightly more....the glass they put in hoods is not leaded, and does not block more than 2-3% of any frequency of light...
 
Roger A. Shrubber

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
Bigworm4201982 said:
Ive been thinking about ducting a older portable ac unit into my intake for the lights and see how much closer i can bring the lights, i envision a xxl raptor with a 1000hps at 2 inchs off the canopy on a lightrail making it even better. I run my lights now about 10 inchs from canopy
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be careful doing that, lights are meant to run at a certain temp range, if you cool down the bulb too much, you can change the spectrum it's emitting...
 
Thundercat

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
Roger A. Shrubber said:
more like 2%....thick leaded glass may block slightly more....the glass they put in hoods is not leaded, and does not block more than 2-3% of any frequency of light...
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Thanks for the info, 2-3% makes much more sense to me honestly. I have never looked up the exact data because I wasn't taking my glass out either way lol.

Roger A. Shrubber said:
be careful doing that, lights are meant to run at a certain temp range, if you cool down the bulb too much, you can change the spectrum it's emitting...
Click to expand...
The same concern crossed my mind.
 
D

Dankyspank2456

Active Member
Thundercat said:
I wasn't even gonna comment on this thread becAuse you've been given pretty good advice so far.

However this quote is just bad advice. 400w is not even close to enough light for a 4x4 space. You can't get the correct spread or intensity.

To the OP if the lights are on a separate vent system that's a good start, though it seemed like you've got 8 inch ducting on everything and your pulling air with a 6inch fan? Also I'd you lights are sucking in smelly air you can use the metal duct sealing tape from the hardware store to cover and cracks or seams with a gap on the hoods.

Now if your hoods are not sucking air from inside the room, and your still having heat issues then actually venting the room and getting that air moving is the next step. Setup a second exhaust this time with a carbon filter that just blow out into the11x12 outer room. And at the opposite end on the bottom of the tent open up your intake flaps on tent. This will draw cooler air in the bottom and exhaust the hot out the top.

Once you have a properly set up intake and exhaust it will give you much better temp control. If the 11x12 outer room has a window in it you could even put a AC in there and cool that room more before you pull the cool air into the tent.
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Yes. The hoods are 8" OVAL exhaust ports. So there is 8" duct cooling the lights in the tent, but the exhaust port holes in the tent are only 6". So once the air from the lights leaves the tent, it is conveted to 6" to get through it. Seperate 8" duct and 8" fan/filter exhausting the room.

Quite honestly embarrassed to say this, because it was such a simple fix... but literally just opened more intake ports and temps are steady 78... you live and you learn.. total rookie mistake. Growing like a madhouse in there now! Thanks guys! was gung-ho ready to step up to a/c until challenged to sort it out without it. Rock on!
 
C

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
You could replace 1600W of HPS with ~1200W of LED, at great cost of course. Then you'd have 400W less heat to deal with. At 50% efficiency, you'd just about match the PAR W/sqft of 1000W HPS + 600W HPS in a 4x8.

Thundercat said:
However this quote is just bad advice. 400w is not even close to enough light for a 4x4 space.
Click to expand...
A 400W LED is definitely not going to out yield a 1000W HPS, but I wouldn't say it's "not enough light". A 50% efficient LED at 400W will put about 12.5W/sqft of PAR in a 4x4 and I've had good results at that intensity. You get good g/W there, but limit your g/sqft.

I wouldn't even consider using a portable air conditioner. Those are all shit.
 
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Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Thundercat said:
Sorry but that's wrong. Air cooled reflectors definitely reduce the amount of heat that gets released into the environment if they are cooled properly.

I dont know where you get some of the shit you post Kingrow. Sometimes your really on point, then other times you open your mouth and you spit this nonsense.
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This just comes from basic first grade science on the bqsic laws of thermodynamics and already someone else has corrected you on the radiation loss of glass so in future please steer well clear of trying to correct me.

Futher to the problem you didnt help, better growers can see the fundamentals before talkkng bro science on air cooled reflectors or assuming everyone needs an ac.

Still he can reduce more if we have some real discussion on that thermometer placement imo...

Youmight think i talk shit when really its your lack of education, keep trying to troll me and you will come off worse by a long shot, use open discussion and you might do a whole lot better :-)
 
Thundercat

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
Kingrow1 said:
This just comes from basic first grade science on the bqsic laws of thermodynamics and already someone else has corrected you on the radiation loss of glass so in future please steer well clear of trying to correct me.

Futher to the problem you didnt help, better growers can see the fundamentals before talkkng bro science on air cooled reflectors or assuming everyone needs an ac.

Still he can reduce more if we have some real discussion on that thermometer placement imo...

Youmight think i talk shit when really its your lack of education, keep trying to troll me and you will come off worse by a long shot, use open discussion and you might do a whole lot better :-)
Click to expand...
Lol your right it is basic science if you vent out the hot air it will reduce heat in the room. It's not broscience, but nice try making yourself feel good even though your wrong. I'm not trolling you, and I'm not ignorant.

I was corrected on the amount Of light loss from using glass yes. That is a good thing, and the person that corrected the info also agrees that air cooled hoods work. I stated above that it was just what I had read and that it wasn't even relevant because air cooling with glass is more beneficial then detrimental because of light loss. I thanked him for the correction instead of arguing and fighting the way you like to.

So yes I will continue to correct you when you make inaccurate statements. The same way that I was corrected about the percentage of light loss.

Obviously temp probe placement is important and you love sharing that with people and that's great.

I never advocated for the OP to get air conditioning. I suggested proper ventilation and as it happened my suggestion solved the whole problem for the OP.

You made no suggestions or helpful comments again in this thread. You didn't help the OP and you have again only made yourself look like an ass for arguing that air cooled hoods don't work lmao.
 
Thundercat

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
churchhaze said:
You could replace 1600W of HPS with ~1200W of LED, at great cost of course. Then you'd have 400W less heat to deal with. At 50% efficiency, you'd just about match the PAR W/sqft of 1000W HPS + 600W HPS in a 4x8.



A 400W LED is definitely not going to out yield a 1000W HPS, but I wouldn't say it's "not enough light". A 50% efficient LED at 400W will put about 12.5W/sqft of PAR in a 4x4 and I've had good results at that intensity. You get good g/W there, but limit your g/sqft.

I wouldn't even consider using a portable air conditioner. Those are all shit.
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I get what your saying for sure. True 400w of Led is very different then a 400w hps. I would not even think about trying to flower a 4x4 with 400w of HPS. When I eventually switch to LED it will be for more even coverage. I have no intention of lowering the amount of watts I run, but I love the idea of more evenly spreading them over my plants, eventually including side lights. And hell if I want to dim them down I always can .

The comment that I said was bad advice had stated that the OPs wattage was too high for a 4x8 and he should switch to 400w lights. That's crazy, I would much rather see him fix the heat issue and switch to both 1k lights he wanted to run in the first place.
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Thundercat said:
Lol your right it is basic science if you vent out the hot air it will reduce heat in the room. It's not broscience, but nice try making yourself feel good even though your wrong. I'm not trolling you, and I'm not ignorant.

I was corrected on the amount Of light loss from using glass yes. That is a good thing, and the person that corrected the info also agrees that air cooled hoods work. I stated above that it was just what I had read and that it wasn't even relevant because air cooling with glass is more beneficial then detrimental because of light loss. I thanked him for the correction instead of arguing and fighting the way you like to.

So yes I will continue to correct you when you make inaccurate statements. The same way that I was corrected about the percentage of light loss.

Obviously temp probe placement is important and you love sharing that with people and that's great.

I never advocated for the OP to get air conditioning. I suggested proper ventilation and as it happened my suggestion solved the whole problem for the OP.

You made no suggestions or helpful comments again in this thread. You didn't help the OP and you have again only made yourself look like an ass for arguing that air cooled hoods don't work lmao.
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Simply because the leaf is as hot with glass as without due to light hitting it.

Im not trying to cool a bulb that burns at hundreds of degrees wirh a fqn, that would be dumb, maybe explode if you actually managed it :-)
 
Herb & Suds

Herb & Suds

Well-Known Member
Kingrow1 said:
Simply because the leaf is as hot with glass as without due to light hitting it.

Im not trying to cool a bulb that burns at hundreds of degrees wirh a fqn, that would be dumb, maybe explode if you actually managed it :-)
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I draw outside air and vent to the roof 365 days a year I run 18/6 600 watt MH in a 3 x 5 closet and my temperature stays at a constant 69 f
 
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