Tiny White Worms and Black worms that can jump an inch

RIKNSTEIN

Well-Known Member
I have used BT, Bacillus Thuringiensis, brand name Thuricide. Very effectively in my perpetual. I am pretty organic and examine my soil cultures under 100x oil microscrope. It hasn't had any detrimental effect on my micro's, bacteria or single cells, I and have been pest free for months now. Good Stuff.

Try ths link.

http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05556.html
BT is some nasty crap. You realize it has systemic properties, and WILL be present in your smoke right? It is toxic to humans as well although poorly documented, not everything natural is good. Especially when synthesized in the lab.
I understand how it works. I doubt it has any ill effect on the weed.
The BT isn't the problem, it's the agent they use to attach it to the digestive process of the insect. They don't know the effects of it if it were smoked. I was just saying watch out for it's systemic properties, I know it is known to make certain types of conifer's abort their cones prematurely.
Something to watch. It's always the chemistry. sigh. I thought Gnatrol was Bt based. As with anything in such a high concentration, use the thuricide pretty sparingly. Does not take a heavy application by any means. Just time for them to get to work. You have given me something to research though as I think your point has merit.
Man ya'll going back and forth is quite entertaining :-P...and I'm a n00b but I found putting a layer of perlite on top of my soil eliminates my gnat problem, they like peat, but if you cover it up they got no place to go, except to their graves...worked for me :bigjoint:peace...
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Neem oil did not work worth a crap, neither did drying it out till the point all leaves were drooping. Any other suggestions? Is this a common problem with Fox Farms soil?
Oh,yes! I don't run FF soils due to the ongoing Knat troubles that come from them!
I've gotten them twice from FF soils....Won't go for the third!
http://4hydroponics.com/microbe-lift-bmc-2-oz
That's the only thing that worked for me.
 

dangerlow

Well-Known Member
Oh,yes! I don't run FF soils due to the ongoing Knat troubles that come from them!
I've gotten them twice from FF soils....Won't go for the third!
http://4hydroponics.com/microbe-lift-bmc-2-oz
That's the only thing that worked for me.
I went in the grow room earlier and it was full of gnats or what the hell, my carbon filter's dust cover was full of the bastards and the meter was reading 70% yesterday, but the fly's got it down to 50% "I hooked an inline chevy air filter gauge onto the fan housing". I was Pissed, so I killed every last fly with traps, and removing the carbon filter and they get sucked outside "it's -15 today :shock:"

I mixed 4 cup of neem oil "$35 worth" with 4 gallons of water and a 2 tablespoons of dawn per gallon, and heated it to 100 degrees Fahrenheit. I gave each 5 gallon bucket half a gallon and let it soak for 5 hours. I flushed the pots with 60 degree water for 15 min and let drip dry.
I can't really tell ya why, but they loved it! They are perky as I have ever seen them I thought for sure it would have about killed them.
I went digging around the soil, and not one bug even under a hand lens. I can see dead bugs everywhere, springtails, larvae, gnats all dead. I am going to be transplanting them into 50 gallon round trash cans next week, and if I can get the money together I am going to be doubling my lights.

Anyone have any suggestions on "Bug free" soil that I can buy 400 gallons or 2 cubic yards of without breaking the bank?
 

dangerlow

Well-Known Member
Gonna be heading to town in about 2 hours to get supplies, anyone know of a good bug free soil is?
 

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
The secret about neem.... Use it again in two weeks, to kill larvae emerging from eggs. Neem is awesome, it just sucks that it tastes like hell....
 

bondoman

Well-Known Member
The secret about neem.... Use it again in two weeks, to kill larvae emerging from eggs. Neem is awesome, it just sucks that it tastes like hell....
That's why you're supposed to use it early on in veg, and you'll never see them again. It doesn't kill them, it just stops them from eating and then they die.
 

RIKNSTEIN

Well-Known Member
The secret about neem.... Use it again in two weeks, to kill larvae emerging from eggs. Neem is awesome, it just sucks that it tastes like hell....
That's why you're supposed to use it early on in veg, and you'll never see them again. It doesn't kill them, it just stops them from eating and then they die.
Someones actually been reading about Neem Oil...Here read some more........................................................................................................Neem Oil
Neem oil does work, but the way itworks is different from other insecticides. Neem is not an instant, knock down,kill everything pesticide. Neem oil affects insects in many different,ingenious and subtle ways.
How neem oil messes with the insects’brains and bodies
Neem oil has many complex activeingredients. Rather than being simple poisons, those ingredients are similar tothe hormones that insects produce. Insects take up the neem oil ingredientsjust like natural hormones.
Neem enters the system and blocks thereal hormones from working properly. Insects “forget” to eat, to mate, or theystop laying eggs. Some forget that they can fly. If eggs are produced theydon’t hatch, or the larvae don’t moult.
Obviously insects that are too confusedto eat or breed will not survive. The population eventually plummets, and theydisappear. The cycle is broken.
How precisely it works is difficult forscientists to find out. There are too many different active substances in neemoil, and every insect species reacts differently to neem insecticide. Neem oildoes not hurt beneficial insects. Only chewing and sucking insects areaffected. It is certainly fascinating.
Like real hormones, neem oilinsecticide works at very low concentrations, in the parts per million range. Alittle neem oil goes a long way.
But this is not something that happensover night. People use neem oil as an insecticide, and expect everything to dieinstantly, because that’s what they are used to from chemical poisons. Whenthat does not happen they conclude neem insecticide does not work.
How neem oil deters chewing and suckinginsects
There is a nice story that demonstrateshow grasshoppers react to neem oil insecticide. It goes something like this: Someonedid an experiment. It involved two jars, two leaves, and two grasshoppers. Oneleaf was sprayed with a chemical insecticide, and one with neem oil. The twograsshoppers were put in the two jars, with one leaf each.
The first grasshopper ate the leaf anddied almost instantly. The grasshopper with the neem oil covered leaf did nottouch the leaf and lived. At least for a few days. Eventually it starved todeath.
Neem stops insects from eating theplants.
Part of this action is due to to thehormone like action of neem oil that I explained above. Insects “forget” to eatafter they’ve been in contact with even traces of neem oil.
But it is also the presence, the merehint of a smell of neem oil, that seems to be enough to keep leaf eatinginsects away. Neem oil can be very powerful as an anti-feedant and insectrepellent.
This anti-feedant property is one ofthe most often advertised and lauded properties of neem oil insecticide.However, the hormonal effects I described above are even stronger.
Neem oil as an insect deterrent workswell against grasshoppers and leafhoppers, but all other insect pests arecontrolled mostly through the hormone action.
The subtlety of the hormonal effects,and the fact that they may take days or weeks to manifest, makes peopleoverlook them. Ill informed gardeners seek instant gratification, i.e. lots ofdead insects immediately, rather than a balanced environment in the long run.
It’s a shame, because the hormonaleffect is where the real power of neem oil lies. It’s the key to neem oil beingan effective insecticide and good for the environment at the same time. It’salso important to understand this effect to use neem oil insecticide correctly.
Neem oil works from inside the plant
Many insecticides break down quickly.They wash away with rain, or when irrigating, or the sunlight destroys them.You either have to spray all the time, or you have to spray something that’s sostable that it stays around forever. That means the chemical builds upeverywhere and eventually poisons everything, including you.
Neem oil breaks down very quickly, too.It is especially susceptible to UV light. But neem oil is also a systemicinsecticide. That means you can pour it on the soil (not pure neem oil ofcourse, you use a dilution or extract) and the plants absorb it. They take itup into their tissue, and it works from the inside. A leaf hopper may take acouple of bites, but that’s it.
However, this does not work for allinsect species. The neem ingredients accumulate in the tissues deeper insidethe plant. The phloem, the outermost layer, contains hardly any. A tiny aphidfeeds from the phloem, it can not penetrate deep enough to get a dose of neem.But any leaf hoppers, grass hoppers or similar chomping insects will beincapacitated quickly.
People eat neem leaves to cleanse theblood, stimulate the liver, and boost the immune system. So we certainly don’tneed to worry about a bit of neem inside our lettuce leaves. To me this is amuch more attractive option than having poisonous foulicides build up in mygarden.
Neem oil suffocates insects
Many gardeners use white oil (plainmineral oil) or even olive oil to combat soft bodied insects like aphids,thrips or whitefly. The oil coats the bugs and they suffocate. Neem oilinsecticide does that as well. But it’s more like a little bonus on top ofeverything else it does.
It can be a hazard, though. Of coursethere is no difference between suffocating good or bad bugs. Oil suffocatesanything. So this aspect can harm beneficial insects!
Neem oil and beneficial insects
Neem is non toxic for beneficialinsects. The main reason is that insects need to ingest the neem oil to beaffected, and beneficial insects don’t eat your plants. But you can still killbeneficial insects if you smother them with neem oil, so please be careful.
Beneficial insects are most activeduring the day. The best time to spray neem insecticide is very early in themorning, so the spray can dry before the good insects become active. Also agood time is the late afternoon or evening. Once the spray has dried it doesnot harm your bees, ladybugs, lacewings, predatory mites and wasps etc.
 

RIKNSTEIN

Well-Known Member
WTF is wrong with this site?????? Can't like shit, can't post pics, gota fill out some captcha bullshit, and now it won't let me edit my fuckin' post....WHAT THE FUCK RIU!!!!????....
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Gonna be heading to town in about 2 hours to get supplies, anyone know of a good bug free soil is?
Don't know if you can get it there, but around here it's POTTERS GOLD. All the bennie's of super soil with out the work. We buy by the skid.
 

dangerlow

Well-Known Member
WTF is wrong with this site?????? Can't like shit, can't post pics, gota fill out some captcha bullshit, and now it won't let me edit my fuckin' post....WHAT THE FUCK RIU!!!!????....
Fully agree... and we have to put up with Uncle Buck popping in and ruining the thread.
 

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
The reason it is reapplied at week 2, is because the emerging babies did not ingest it. Now they will, and won't be able to successfully reproduce.

The reason it is applied early in vegetative growth is so that the ass nasty taste dissipates before harvest.
 

dangerlow

Well-Known Member
Don't know if you can get it there, but around here it's POTTERS GOLD. All the bennie's of super soil with out the work. We buy by the skid.
Yeah no where within 190 miles of m ed unless I go into Canada. But they might ask why the FUCK I'm bringing shit loads of potting soil through the border in the middle of winter when it's negative 28 f. Lol
 

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
Because Canada was the only place you could get it?

You use it to start pepper and tomato plants the recommended 5 weeks prior to spring planting.
 

anzohaze

Well-Known Member
Pour as much sand on top of the plant buckets and with saran wrap cover the bucket and water thru bottom of bucket/pots it works for me I use 3 50lb bags of sand for 18 buckets equals to about 2 inches give or take in each bucket.
 
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