thoughts on black strap

VTMi'kmaq

Well-Known Member
Molasses is a great chelating agent has lots of nutes and provides energy for the plants. Is great for flower.

It makes me sad going into the growing sections these days.
People talking out there ass so matter of factly.
Ive been growing near 15 years. In multiple grow houses producing +30lbs a month. Arguably one of the most helpful and knowledgeable members on this forum. With degrees in chemistry and pharmacy, haven proven myself many times...and ass hats like dave in their first year, how many plants have you taken to harvest? Come on here spouting crap.
I passed that drug test too btw
You mad dude?
 

VTMi'kmaq

Well-Known Member
Wish I woulda had the patience to grab a couple phd's when I was younger. To be honest dude, I'd love to have that daily routine you got.....what I wouldn't like is having to feed so many hungry mouths. I haven't smoked in 3 weeks, I believe its effecting my sense of humor...I apologize.
 

bravedave

Well-Known Member
Molasses is a great chelating agent has lots of nutes and provides energy for the plants. Is great for flower.

It makes me sad going into the growing sections these days.
People talking out there ass so matter of factly.
Ive been growing near 15 years. In multiple grow houses producing +30lbs a month. Arguably one of the most helpful and knowledgeable members on this forum. With degrees in chemistry and pharmacy, haven proven myself many times...and ass hats like dave in their first year, how many plants have you taken to harvest? Come on here spouting crap.
I passed that drug test too btw
Ya know i thought of bringing up your 48 hour detox method but did not want to taint your message here any more than the message itself. I prefaced my "gatherings" with who I was. The pulling out of the ass comes from reading threads just like this one and deciding on who sounds and whats seems more logically credible.

You had a couple chances now to answer my question and short of chelating I saw very little specifics. Any expansion appreciated.
 

bravedave

Well-Known Member
Lol yes, from a previous thread(s).
I mean no i aint mad at all, just making a point.
Your point is on top of your head, probably right under your asshat. We have no history dude. 3 threads does not a history make. The first, you were prescribing a 48 hour thc detox. Yeah right, Mr. Chemist. The second, was in MYthread where you chimed in with trolls where the arguments were ficticious on both sides and you were not bright enough to figure that out. Here I only responded to the OP after seeing he was only getting joked at with non-serious reponses from you and another. You only then decide to get serious but unfortunately with yet another erroneous response. Then you have the fucking balls to call ME out for what again? Supplying correct information. Sorry, I will take the right answer from the freshman over the wrong one from the Dean. I suggest YOU stay the fuck out of the newbie section as your answers are toxic and no amount of chelating is going to help them or my Promix.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
If you are using synthetic nutrients then I doubt it will help. Molasses is for feeding the microbiology living in the soil. Synthetic nutrients are all salt based. That shit kills your micro life. And actually in my opinion as well as others, you don't need microbes when using synthetic nutrients. When in a liquid form the plant can readily absorb the nutrients making the microbes invaild. Microbes are of more benefit when growing organically. The microbes breakdown the larger organic particles and form a symbiotic relationship with the roots, and supply the roots with available nutrients as the plant provides sugars back. There are plenty of carbohydrates (sugars) on the market at hydro stores but they have varying efficacy. I used advanced nutrients bud candy for years. It's made with molasses. However it didn't really making much difference. It's kind of a snake oil.
Now if you are growing organically then it has many benefits. Especially with worm and compost teas. And if you do decide to use molasses use unsulferd blackstrap molasses. I use it at a maximum of 1 TBS per gallon of water in a tea. Then I dilute the tea with water 50/50. Molasses can easily be overused. It is very high in magnesium and you can overdose your plant with it. People think it will sweeten your bud which is not correct. Plants produce sugars for energy. Not pick them up and plant them in buds to sweeten. Just doesn't work that way. And that stupid photo Jorge Cervantes has in his book of a big bud next to a small bud showing the difference sugar made is an extreme exaggeration at best. Bigger plants yield bigger buds.
Microbe's are never invalid !!!! If they are so invalid, why do every synthetic nutrient makers line, HAVE a micro beastie line of supplements they say you should use! Get real....

Bottom line....Molasses can make some minor enhancement to flavor. While they say "unsulfured", there is S in it and that does increase trichs and terps! So does Mg. The amounts of Carbs in it is better for soil runs.....It SHOULD NOT go in hydro res tanks!!

It is NEEDED to make any good tea!

Doc
 

CouchlockOR

Active Member
Microbe's are never invalid !!!! If they are so invalid, why do every synthetic nutrient makers line, HAVE a micro beastie line of supplements they say you should use! Get real....

Bottom line....Molasses can make some minor enhancement to flavor. While they say "unsulfured", there is S in it and that does increase trichs and terps! So does Mg. The amounts of Carbs in it is better for soil runs.....It SHOULD NOT go in hydro res tanks!!

It is NEEDED to make any good tea!

Doc
Because they want to sell you shit. It's all marketing.
Salts which is what hydro nutes are made of kill beneficial bacteria. Just because something is sold doesn't mean you need to buy it. Lots of crap is on the market.
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
Also burning is from excessive nutrient use. Back off the ppm a lil. Also when using synthetic which I'm assuming you are if you are pHing the water, flushing the plants once a month helps. Honestly I'd save the molasses and just flush the shit out of your pots and continue to add plain water for two weeks. Also unless your tap water is out of 6-7 range I wouldn't worry about the water pH. Or even a lil higher. Over time the soil will become more acidic from unused nutrients being left in it. A higher pH water will counter the low acidity soil. It's a good idea to check the runoff water pH. When doing so you can adjust the pH of water going in to counter offsets. I've used synthetic nutrients for over 20 years and I've never had fewer issues since switching to all organic. Well mostly. I use lights and there are some plastic pots etc but I make my own soil blend and add water or teas only. No pHing. No nutrient burns.
What exactly are you adding to your resivoir? Without knowing what you already give your plants it's hard to tell you if you should add anything else.
Why do people say that? The pH of run off is just that. Run off pH has no bearing on the pH of the soil and will have you chasing your tail.
 

CouchlockOR

Active Member
Are you joking? It totally does when using synthetic nutrients. Synthetic nutrients are always overused in some aspect. What the plant doesn't use stays in the soil. Synthetic nutrients are acidic. That means the leftover nutrients will make the soil acidic. dropping the pH. To raise the pH you have to add something. Soil may begin at a pH of 7 but after adding synthetic nutrients your soil pH will most likely drop. Especially in larger containers.
If you don't think so try adding some pH'd water to 4 and just water that every time you water. Your soil won't be a pH balenced 7. It will drop. You do need to pH all nutrients regardless of wether in soil or hydro. Soil only has so much buffering capabilities. That's why people put lime on their lawns every year. It doesn't last forever.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Because they want to sell you shit. It's all marketing.
Salts which is what hydro nutes are made of kill beneficial bacteria. Just because something is sold doesn't mean you need to buy it. Lots of crap is on the market.
WRONG! it is NOT a marketing ploy! Synthetics do not kill microbes....they severely limit them.....

Are you joking? It totally does when using synthetic nutrients. Synthetic nutrients are always overused in some aspect. What the plant doesn't use stays in the soil. Synthetic nutrients are acidic. That means the leftover nutrients will make the soil acidic. dropping the pH. To raise the pH you have to add something. Soil may begin at a pH of 7 but after adding synthetic nutrients your soil pH will most likely drop. Especially in larger containers.
If you don't think so try adding some pH'd water to 4 and just water that every time you water. Your soil won't be a pH balenced 7. It will drop. You do need to pH all nutrients regardless of wether in soil or hydro. Soil only has so much buffering capabilities. That's why people put lime on their lawns every year. It doesn't last forever.
Do actually know how the pH of soil works? Guess not!
You water soil and it swings the pH one way. as the soil dries out, it swings BACK the other way.....This is how nature allows the plant to use Nutrients that are available at differing pH values in soil!

Doc
 

CouchlockOR

Active Member
Severely limiting it by killing it. Also most beneficials make a symbiotic relationship with the roots. This can only happen if there is something for the bennies to eat. Organic material. Not synthetic nutrients.

Soil is a vague term. Not all soils are alike. So to say every soil mix reacts the same is dumb. The only way soil can buffer pH is by adding something to buffer it. Gypsum, dolomite lime, pH up and down, pine needles and what not. also we are talking about growing in pots indoors. Not much Mother Nature to get involved indoors. Stop coming off like you know everything. It's getting old.
 

CouchlockOR

Active Member
If what you say about pH is true, then why is my soil below my pine trees acidic with moss growing instead of grass, where it used to grow? Let me tell you why. Pine needles are acidic. They fall to the ground. Decompose. Make the ground acidic. Kills grass. Moss grows. Why doesn't it just swing back? Because it just doesn't work that way. Fool. People add lime to raise the pH and kill the moss so the grass can grow. But of course it doesn't work that way.
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
If what you say about pH is true, then why is my soil below my pine trees acidic with moss growing instead of grass, where it used to grow? Let me tell you why. Pine needles are acidic. They fall to the ground. Decompose. Make the ground acidic. Kills grass. Moss grows. Why doesn't it just swing back? Because it just doesn't work that way. Fool. People add lime to raise the pH and kill the moss so the grass can grow. But of course it doesn't work that way.
I have posted it on here before. PH of run off is not the soils pH. To test pH of soil you mix equal parts soil to deionized water and test.

Couchlock, did you listen to yourself. You told the guy, don't worry about pH the water that goes in, test your run off. That's crazy.

A pH pen uses an electrode to measure current. What do salts do? Change the conductivity of water. Testing runoff pH is pointless and will have you chasing your tail.
 

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
Severely limiting it by killing it. Also most beneficials make a symbiotic relationship with the roots. This can only happen if there is something for the bennies to eat. Organic material. Not synthetic nutrients.

Soil is a vague term. Not all soils are alike. So to say every soil mix reacts the same is dumb. The only way soil can buffer pH is by adding something to buffer it. Gypsum, dolomite lime, pH up and down, pine needles and what not. also we are talking about growing in pots indoors. Not much Mother Nature to get involved indoors. Stop coming off like you know everything. It's getting old.

Frequently we see statements in the lay literature about chemical fertilizers killing soil microbes or, worse yet, statements indicating these management inputs "sterilize" the soil. Statements such as these should be viewed with much skepticism! Remember that as we learned in FAQ #1, the soil can contain tons of microbes. Short of incineration its hard to imagine a stress in a soil that would lead to complete extermination of the microbial populations. It is true that some inputs, e.g., anhydrous ammonia, cause reductions in microbial numbers in the immediate vicinity of the application. After all, ammonia is a toxic gas. However, it quickly equilibrates with the soil solution in the form of ammonium ions and the toxicity subsides. Certain pesticides have been shown to cause similar transient reductions in selected microbial population. But remember, in some cases the microbes simply view these chemicals as food and degrade them fairly quickly.

Organic fertilizers circumvent the criticisms leveled at "synthetic" fertilizers but it should not be forgotten that plants take up nitrogen in the form of ammonium (NH4+) or nitrate (NO3-) ions regardless of whether it was mineralized from an organic source or applied as in inorganic fertilizer like ammonium nitrate. An advantage of using organics, where practical, is that nutrients are liberated slowly as the microbes mineralize the organic materials. Thus there is low risk for fertilizer burn on plants and less risk for environmental problems due to runoff and leaching. Another potentially negative effect of long-term use of ammonia-based fertilizers is soil acidification due to ammonia oxidation by the nitrifying bacteria. Soil pH can drop below 5.0 after prolonged use of ammonia-based fertilizers and this can cause marked reductions in populations of bacteria and actinomycetes and simultaneous increases in the relative abundance of fungi. Such changes might favor the development of certain fungal plant pathogens. On the other hand, the potato scab disease is reduced by the low pH because the actinomycete which causes it is eliminated. These changes are easily reversed with applications of lime to the soil. Thus we see qualitative changes in the soil populations due to some management inputs but this is a long way from "sterilizing" or "killing" the soil.

With the advent of high-sand golf greens questions have arisen about the need for applying microbes during green construction and thereafter. Sand because of its lack of organic matter supports little microbial growth. However, when mixed with peats, composted rice hulls or other organic amendments it gains the microbial populations associated with those materials. Turfgrasses established from vegetative sprigs also bring their root-associated microbes with them! Once the turfgrass begins growing in the rooting medium of the green, microbes already present will colonize roots and the mechanics of soil organic matter formation will commence. A reasonable practice would be to add a small amount of normal pathogen-free soil to the greens mix as an inoculum. Thus far, there is little scientific evidence indicating the need to inoculate golf greens with selected microorganisms. The newly constructed green does afford us the possibility of customizing the soil population to some extent. Once we know what we want in these mixes it may be easier to add them "up front" than to add them into an established population already adapted to the prevailing conditions of a particular soil. As our knowledge of soil microbial biodiversity and the factors that control it increases we may find ways of tailoring microbial populations in given environments. At this point, we are limited in what we can do to this effect.

source,http://organiclifestyles.tamu.edu/soil/microbeindex.html
 

rob333

Well-Known Member
so i can buy some crappy frog for a 100 plant grow all in the ground who makes there own soils' these dayz
 
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