Seed confusion

Its hard to say...
If that male is a special male....then you would back cross to him

But if the female is special you might have better odds of picking an f1,2,or3 generation male to cross with for more seedstock- as those generations will have more of the keepers genetic profile

Like i said bx is used to bring genetics back to a keeper plant. That way that keeper has more expression in the plant mix.
 
@shorelineOG
Has a series of bx genetics
He uses
Shoreline x deadhead og = f1
Then he takes a shoreline leaning f1 male an crosses it back to shoreline female...

Then he gets a Shoreline Bx
I think thats how it works

So we get the Bx an grow 12 seeds
An we can pull a 2/3rds shoreline leaner
Giving us basically a shoreline replica
 
At what point in the filial generation is it beneficial to go back to the original male used in the F1 cross using a female that has all the traits you're looking for . Would you keep going down the line of F3 f4 f5 before doing a bx to the original male ?
You can backross to the original parent whenever you want. Back crossing is mostly for locking down certain traits/phenotypes.
For example, the male has a thin sharp leaf structure, and the female has a fat leaf structure. Lets say that all of F1 plants inherited the fat leaf pheno, and your goal is to make that strain have a thin leaf pheno. In this setting, you could backcross an F1 female to the father, in an attempt to produce bx1 progeny that have a thin leaf pheno.
There are a lot of breeding tactics. Backcrossing isn't the best way to achieve your goal, its simply one of many tactics. Just keep in mind that inbreeding depression is real. When you start your serious breeding project, consider having multiple lines. You can cross them into each other and introduce some vigor, when you start noticing that the progeny is starting to lack vigor, and or the number of mutant plants starts increasing.
 
You can backross to the original parent whenever you want. Back crossing is mostly for locking down certain traits/phenotypes.
For example, the male has a thin sharp leaf structure, and the female has a fat leaf structure. Lets say that all of F1 plants inherited the fat leaf pheno, and your goal is to make that strain have a thin leaf pheno. In this setting, you could backcross an F1 female to the father, in an attempt to produce bx1 progeny that have a thin leaf pheno.
There are a lot of breeding tactics. Backcrossing isn't the best way to achieve your goal, its simply one of many tactics. Just keep in mind that inbreeding depression is real. When you start your serious breeding project, consider having multiple lines. You can cross them into each other and introduce some vigor, when you start noticing that the progeny is starting to lack vigor, and or the number of mutant plants starts increasing.
Thanx @Farmer's Hat
I was wanting you to chime in on the subject.
Good job
 
@shorelineOG
Has a series of bx genetics
He uses
Shoreline x deadhead og = f1
Then he takes a shoreline leaning f1 male an crosses it back to shoreline female...

Then he gets a Shoreline Bx
I think thats how it works

So we get the Bx an grow 12 seeds
An we can pull a 2/3rds shoreline leaner
Giving us basically a shoreline replica
Bare it in mind for the long term health of a line your best not going above bx 2 what your actually better doing is a recombinant inbred line if your gonna take it above bx2 it's more work but worth it that way vigour don't take so much of a slide
 
If this is your first attempt at making seeds, dont overthink it. Select a good looking male and cross it with every female that you like. Dont bother trying to stabilize any phenos, or making an IBL.
Once you grow out a few dozens seeds of your F1 crosses, you will get a better idea of whats possible.

The next step after testing dozens of seeds, is to set a goal for a more serious breeding project. My only advice is that you make hundreds of seeds for every cross. That way you can be aggressive with the selection process. As an example, I will plant dozens of seeds and kill all the runts within week 2-3. One of my recent breeding projects, I scrapped 50% of the seedlings because they were lacking vigor, and they had unwanted leaf phenos.

Creating a specific strain takes time and dedication. Its a very slow process. You have to test dozens of seeds, and sometimes the male selected passes on unwanted traits. It can be pretty frustrating when a strain starts drifting in the wrong direction. Having a reserve stock is pretty important. Save at least 100 seeds from every generation F1, F2, F3, etc.

I also recommend that you get ahold of some of the classics and a few landraces, if you want to create something unique. Its difficult to create something different with all the modern strains, because they all possess very similar genetics. Genetic variation is important if you want to create a strain that is truly unique.
Thank you for that thorough advice, this is what I will do. Much appreciated friend.
 
As far as stress testing goes, is this only done when you have finally developed something you are happy with? Or should this be something done regularly along the way?
 
As far as stress testing goes, is this only done when you have finally developed something you are happy with? Or should this be something done regularly along the way?
Stress test the male and female that you select, for every generation. You want to avoid plants that herm when stressed. This will help you create a more stable strain in the long run.

Males can be stress tested with light. A strong stable male will not herm, no matter what. Finding a female that doesn't herm under light stress is a bit more difficult, so I advise that you try different stress tests on the females that you select.
 
Stress test the male and female that you select, for every generation. You want to avoid plants that herm when stressed. This will help you create a more stable strain in the long run.

Males can be stress tested with light. A strong stable male will not herm, no matter what. Finding a female that doesn't herm under light stress is a bit more difficult, so I advise that you try different stress tests on the females that you select.
As in other than light tests? Or in addition to?
As in.. temp fluctuations, root binding, nutrient overloads? I’m just thinking of stuff to mess with them.
 
As in other than light tests? Or in addition to?
As in.. temp fluctuations, root binding, nutrient overloads? I’m just thinking of stuff to mess with them.
All of those are good stressors. Small pots, hot soil, lack of water/wilting, high temps, etc. You dont have to do all of the above, a few tests will suffice.
I grew an Amnesia Haze that I put through the ringer, including light stress, and she never hermied. She kept pushing like a champ. I still have a cut of that plant, she is great for making F1 hybrids.
Revegging a clone is also a good way to test the genetics. I recently had a male Durban Poison throw a few pistils when I re-vegged it. Ive never seen a female plant throw sacks when re-vegged, but I suppose it's possible if it has strong rhodelization tendencies.
 
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