The Official Canna Coco & Nutrients Thread

[RockstarEnergy]

Hey everyone! I was wondering if any of you could tell me what is wrong with my plant. This is my 4th time growing with Canna coco and Nutrients and this has never happened before. The only thing that is different with this grow is that I started using Boost. I this it looks like a P or K deficiency but wanted to get a second opinion before I up the nutes even more. Here is some info on the plant.
Strain: Barneys Farm Auto Pineapple Express
Age: 6 weeks
medium: 100% Canna Coco
Last feeding: 13ml/gal A+B, 2ml Rhizo, 9.5ml Cannazym, 7.6ml Boost, 5ml Calmag+

Any help would be greatly
appreciated!
Thanks

 

[Screaming trees]

Hey everyone! I was wondering if any of you could tell me what is wrong with my plant. This is my 4th time growing with Canna coco and Nutrients and this has never happened before. The only thing that is different with this grow is that I started using Boost. I this it looks like a P or K deficiency but wanted to get a second opinion before I up the nutes even more. Here is some info on the plant.
Strain: Barneys Farm Auto Pineapple Express
Age: 6 weeks
medium: 100% Canna Coco
Last feeding: 13ml/gal A+B, 2ml Rhizo, 9.5ml Cannazym, 7.6ml Boost, 5ml Calmag+

Any help would be greatly
appreciated!
Thanks

Have you been flushing? Is this your first time with this strain? Less is more with Canna from my experience. I've never did an Auto so I can't say for sure. A flush at half strength every 3rd watering is what I do.
7.5ml A&B a gallon and 3ml cal/mag all the way through. I've even done a very mild flush every single watering at regular strength and my roots were so white and healthy but it gets expensive when your doing more then a couple. I never seen a problem all the way through doing it that way. Id suggest beneficial bacteria and Silica blast too.

 

[charlestonchunk]

I always used fnb b4. I am using a and b at 7 ml gal and one has burnt tips the other looks underfed. Im in strait coco 5 gal big plants. People say run a ph of 7 you guys say 6. I think ph is locking something out. They are not underfed. I hand water. My tap is 7.2 i airate it. I dont ph it. Should i drop it. I never raise it...should I? Does anyone raise their ph? If so i have been doingbit wrong. I use canna boost. I have gh flouralicious plus, can i use it? I have been using it at 5 ml par gal, DTW 1000 hps sative.

 

[reddiamond]

Coco is hydro growing and as with ALL hydro your ph meter is your best friend.
ph in coco should be the same as hydro, I use 5.8 for veg and 6.1 for flower in coco. I think you are correct in that your ph is locking something out, correct that 1st and give them a few days and they should bounce back.
You can use Floralicious Plus alongside the boost just keep an eye on the ppm's so you don't burn them.

 

[charlestonchunk]

How ppm @ such a low a and b ? thank you so much for the promptness in your reply . I just got ANOTHER meter.. how can it be PPM's if tap is 150 with a 7.2ph using less than half strength notes

 

[reddiamond]

I dont ph it.

Glad you got yourself a PH meter, make sure its calibrated and then feed the plants with the proper PH food and check the runoff PH to see what's happened to your coco while you were feeding without checking it, I'm pretty sure you'll find you are locked out somewhere.

How ppm @ such a low a and b ? thank you so much for the promptness in your reply . I just got ANOTHER meter.. how can it be PPM's if tap is 150 with a 7.2ph using less than half strength notes

Read @Screaming trees post above yours, he uses 7.5ml/gal all the way through and gets great results, I use at 10ml/gal and get great results. I completely ignore what a manufacturer says is the correct amount of nutes to use and only go on what the plant is telling me, if she is hungry she will let you know and if you overfeed her she will let you will know, learning to read your plants is part of being a good grower.
It will depend on the plant, some are greedy and will take whatever you throw at them and others are light feeders and a difference of only 50ppm can burn tips.

 

[charlestonchunk]

Perfect info. Because i just said im underfeeding. New meter says i have been at like 500 i am at 800 now ec of 1.2 i think i need to dilute it more and go for a 1 ec then 1,1 ec and so one. Ypur right they all look different. Im growing similar straines next. Whats your favorite...good in coco...etc.

 

[reddiamond]

My last grow was AK48 which I fed at a max of 1.3EC and I got just over 15oz from 2 plants under a 600w.
What meter did you get, are you checking PH as well as EC?

 

[charlestonchunk]

I got given aht o26 6 in one. The ec callibated. the ph probe is gone.ec yesterday was 1.2 they look ok today but the tops still look copperish inbetween wein and edge. It mightbthe 100 watt. Should i use supboost or just 1000. Im going back down a bit. I hand water so would you water with a 1.2 ec everytime if she does well.

 

[reddiamond]

I personally wouldn't give them anything that I didn't know the PH of, I want my plants to flourish and not die.
Spend the $20 and get a new probe.

 

[Screaming trees]

I personally wouldn't give them anything that I didn't know the PH of, I want my plants to flourish and not die.
Spend the $20 and get a new probe.

This was copied from another older post. Tell me what you think on the addition of Fulvic and Humic acid to a Canna regiment as a PH down reddiamond. Sounds very promising with extra attributes.
............I've been running fulvic acid with my setup for a while now as a pH down replacement and have recognized several benefits during this time.

I also ran Canna Coco and found the flavor to be lacking, or somewhat similar between multiple strains. After trying a few things what I have found to work best is an organic coco medium, like Roots Organics coco mix, with a combination of fulvic acid, a kelp extract (GO BioWeed), a silicon supplement (Dyna-Gro Pro-Tekt), and an iron supplement (Cal-Mag plus). This has resulted in the largest and healthiest root systems and as a result they support large and resinous flowers. The inclusion of the Pro-Tekt increases the need for fulvic which allows me to run up to 6ml per gallon at times without destroying the balance. Regardless of the pH change you get in the reservoir at the time of mixing in the fulvic understand that it is a weakly bonded organic acid and even a "scary" acidic mixture (like as low as 4.6pH) was a non-issue in my garden. The natural pH buffering capabilities of coco, in combination with the amendments in roots organics and the micro herd, allows for heavy use of the acid if you desire.

My fulvic acid of choice has been Humboldt Nutrients FlavorFul. The conversation regarding sweeteners is somewhat interesting because after using their Honey ES, and comparing it to other sweeteners, I find they can actually ruin the wonderful natural flavor of the resins rather than enhance them.

Something else I have found is that BioCanna's BioBoost Accelerator works best as a foliar spray, if not only for the money savings. I found that when applied 4ml/liter with 1/8th tsp of epsom salt per liter to the backside of leaves at lights on twice per week I had the best results with it. Definite resin increase, especially early on in the 2nd and 3rd weeks of flowering. This results in more useful trim which means more useful trim for more concentrates. Next time around I might play around with a more complex foliar system perhaps including Dutch Master's liquid light. Totally different conversation to have on sprays but I want to reinforce just how much production you can squeeze out of a reasonably priced 250ml bottle of BioBoost used as a foliar spray for days 1 to 45 of flowering. At the rate of less than 20ml per week for even a large garden it's a great product to consider for the value you can squeeze out of a little bottle.

I did the same thing you are now a year or so ago when I discovered fulvic acid and coco. Canna A+B is a decent system though it does require some modifications for maximum potential out of many plants. Having their complete system is pretty crucial, especially the Cannazym for the 0-2-1 ratio change at 10ml per gallon right at the flip to flower. They suggest this for a reason, but I have found Botanicare Hydroplex at 0-10-6 and used at 1/5th the strength (2ml per gallon, not much at all) has dramatically cut costs with their system while still maintaining the suggested nutrient ratios. There seems to be another benefit to this product and I find that Botanicare's products generally do what they say they do and this product says it helps flowers grow bigger with a large complex of things like amino-acids which may (or may not) activate biological processes I don't understand through some kind of hormone/ATP reaction.

So... RO Coco mix, Canna A+B, and Cal-Mag Plus as a kind of "standard."
Then replace the Rhizotonic with BioWeed (or similar) which saves cash because it's $20 per liter and used at 2.5ml per gallon MAX, instead of $60 per liter and used at 10-15ml per gallon.
Then replace the Cannazym with Hydroplex (or similar, LKB is good too) which lets that $20 go 5x further plus some extra flower enhancing benefits.
Then run the BioBoost as a foliar spray, kablam, saving even more skrilla and getting the same results.

Add in the Silicon because that stuff is for real, 3ml per gallon of the ProTekt is fine. And finally wrap it all up and balance out the pH with the Fulvic Acid and you have yourself a pretty intense system, complete with a strong backbone in things like amino-acids, auxins, cytokinens, and organic chelates, all of which have demonstrated to myself to have a great impact on the final product from coco grown plants.

 

[charlestonchunk]

This was copied from another older post. Tell me what you think on the addition of Fulvic and Humic acid to a Canna regiment as a PH down reddiamond. Sounds very promising with extra attributes.
............I've been running fulvic acid with my setup for a while now as a pH down replacement and have recognized several benefits during this time.

I also ran Canna Coco and found the flavor to be lacking, or somewhat similar between multiple strains. After trying a few things what I have found to work best is an organic coco medium, like Roots Organics coco mix, with a combination of fulvic acid, a kelp extract (GO BioWeed), a silicon supplement (Dyna-Gro Pro-Tekt), and an iron supplement (Cal-Mag plus). This has resulted in the largest and healthiest root systems and as a result they support large and resinous flowers. The inclusion of the Pro-Tekt increases the need for fulvic which allows me to run up to 6ml per gallon at times without destroying the balance. Regardless of the pH change you get in the reservoir at the time of mixing in the fulvic understand that it is a weakly bonded organic acid and even a "scary" acidic mixture (like as low as 4.6pH) was a non-issue in my garden. The natural pH buffering capabilities of coco, in combination with the amendments in roots organics and the micro herd, allows for heavy use of the acid if you desire.

My fulvic acid of choice has been Humboldt Nutrients FlavorFul. The conversation regarding sweeteners is somewhat interesting because after using their Honey ES, and comparing it to other sweeteners, I find they can actually ruin the wonderful natural flavor of the resins rather than enhance them.

Something else I have found is that BioCanna's BioBoost Accelerator works best as a foliar spray, if not only for the money savings. I found that when applied 4ml/liter with 1/8th tsp of epsom salt per liter to the backside of leaves at lights on twice per week I had the best results with it. Definite resin increase, especially early on in the 2nd and 3rd weeks of flowering. This results in more useful trim which means more useful trim for more concentrates. Next time around I might play around with a more complex foliar system perhaps including Dutch Master's liquid light. Totally different conversation to have on sprays but I want to reinforce just how much production you can squeeze out of a reasonably priced 250ml bottle of BioBoost used as a foliar spray for days 1 to 45 of flowering. At the rate of less than 20ml per week for even a large garden it's a great product to consider for the value you can squeeze out of a little bottle.

I did the same thing you are now a year or so ago when I discovered fulvic acid and coco. Canna A+B is a decent system though it does require some modifications for maximum potential out of many plants. Having their complete system is pretty crucial, especially the Cannazym for the 0-2-1 ratio change at 10ml per gallon right at the flip to flower. They suggest this for a reason, but I have found Botanicare Hydroplex at 0-10-6 and used at 1/5th the strength (2ml per gallon, not much at all) has dramatically cut costs with their system while still maintaining the suggested nutrient ratios. There seems to be another benefit to this product and I find that Botanicare's products generally do what they say they do and this product says it helps flowers grow bigger with a large complex of things like amino-acids which may (or may not) activate biological processes I don't understand through some kind of hormone/ATP reaction.

So... RO Coco mix, Canna A+B, and Cal-Mag Plus as a kind of "standard."
Then replace the Rhizotonic with BioWeed (or similar) which saves cash because it's $20 per liter and used at 2.5ml per gallon MAX, instead of $60 per liter and used at 10-15ml per gallon.
Then replace the Cannazym with Hydroplex (or similar, LKB is good too) which lets that $20 go 5x further plus some extra flower enhancing benefits.
Then run the BioBoost as a foliar spray, kablam, saving even more skrilla and getting the same results.

Add in the Silicon because that stuff is for real, 3ml per gallon of the ProTekt is fine. And finally wrap it all up and balance out the pH with the Fulvic Acid and you have yourself a pretty intense system, complete with a strong backbone in things like amino-acids, auxins, cytokinens, and organic chelates, all of which have demonstrated to myself to have a great impact on the final product from coco grown plants.[/QU

 

[charlestonchunk]

Sorry my ipads broken. I have a copper cated color to my buds. Top leaves only. Im in flowering do i NEED to go get something. I have lots of chems. I have canna a and b a canna boost. I mean do i NEED it.....Today my ec is 1.2 and ill get pics. You are right about coco and smell etc. 100 pct coir...makes me think im dealing with soil but forget the differance. Ok ill get on my ph today. Where should i be and should i keep the ec stable and just work up or down slow untill i figure it out? I have tons gen hydro stuff at home and h and g. Its too gosh darn synthetic. Im tired of chemicalls. But for now hydro is what i gotta do.

This was copied from another older post. Tell me what you think on the addition of Fulvic and Humic acid to a Canna regiment as a PH down reddiamond. Sounds very promising with extra attributes.
............I've been running fulvic acid with my setup for a while now as a pH down replacement and have recognized several benefits during this time.

I also ran Canna Coco and found the flavor to be lacking, or somewhat similar between multiple strains. After trying a few things what I have found to work best is an organic coco medium, like Roots Organics coco mix, with a combination of fulvic acid, a kelp extract (GO BioWeed), a silicon supplement (Dyna-Gro Pro-Tekt), and an iron supplement (Cal-Mag plus). This has resulted in the largest and healthiest root systems and as a result they support large and resinous flowers. The inclusion of the Pro-Tekt increases the need for fulvic which allows me to run up to 6ml per gallon at times without destroying the balance. Regardless of the pH change you get in the reservoir at the time of mixing in the fulvic understand that it is a weakly bonded organic acid and even a "scary" acidic mixture (like as low as 4.6pH) was a non-issue in my garden. The natural pH buffering capabilities of coco, in combination with the amendments in roots organics and the micro herd, allows for heavy use of the acid if you desire.

My fulvic acid of choice has been Humboldt Nutrients FlavorFul. The conversation regarding sweeteners is somewhat interesting because after using their Honey ES, and comparing it to other sweeteners, I find they can actually ruin the wonderful natural flavor of the resins rather than enhance them.

Something else I have found is that BioCanna's BioBoost Accelerator works best as a foliar spray, if not only for the money savings. I found that when applied 4ml/liter with 1/8th tsp of epsom salt per liter to the backside of leaves at lights on twice per week I had the best results with it. Definite resin increase, especially early on in the 2nd and 3rd weeks of flowering. This results in more useful trim which means more useful trim for more concentrates. Next time around I might play around with a more complex foliar system perhaps including Dutch Master's liquid light. Totally different conversation to have on sprays but I want to reinforce just how much production you can squeeze out of a reasonably priced 250ml bottle of BioBoost used as a foliar spray for days 1 to 45 of flowering. At the rate of less than 20ml per week for even a large garden it's a great product to consider for the value you can squeeze out of a little bottle.

I did the same thing you are now a year or so ago when I discovered fulvic acid and coco. Canna A+B is a decent system though it does require some modifications for maximum potential out of many plants. Having their complete system is pretty crucial, especially the Cannazym for the 0-2-1 ratio change at 10ml per gallon right at the flip to flower. They suggest this for a reason, but I have found Botanicare Hydroplex at 0-10-6 and used at 1/5th the strength (2ml per gallon, not much at all) has dramatically cut costs with their system while still maintaining the suggested nutrient ratios. There seems to be another benefit to this product and I find that Botanicare's products generally do what they say they do and this product says it helps flowers grow bigger with a large complex of things like amino-acids which may (or may not) activate biological processes I don't understand through some kind of hormone/ATP reaction.

So... RO Coco mix, Canna A+B, and Cal-Mag Plus as a kind of "standard."
Then replace the Rhizotonic with BioWeed (or similar) which saves cash because it's $20 per liter and used at 2.5ml per gallon MAX, instead of $60 per liter and used at 10-15ml per gallon.
Then replace the Cannazym with Hydroplex (or similar, LKB is good too) which lets that $20 go 5x further plus some extra flower enhancing benefits.
Then run the BioBoost as a foliar spray, kablam, saving even more skrilla and getting the same results.

Add in the Silicon because that stuff is for real, 3ml per gallon of the ProTekt is fine. And finally wrap it all up and balance out the pH with the Fulvic Acid and you have yourself a pretty intense system, complete with a strong backbone in things like amino-acids, auxins, cytokinens, and organic chelates, all of which have demonstrated to myself to have a great impact on the final product from coco grown plants.[/QUOTE
stonchunk, post: 11366605, member: 47414"]

Sorry this i pad sux. Th

 

[charlestonchunk]

Love the fulvic acid conclusion. It makes biological sence

 

[reddiamond]

Something else I have found is that BioCanna's BioBoost Accelerator works best as a foliar spray, if not only for the money savings. I found that when applied 4ml/liter with 1/8th tsp of epsom salt per liter to the backside of leaves at lights on twice per week I had the best results with it. Definite resin increase, especially early on in the 2nd and 3rd weeks of flowering.

I had read about using as a foliar spray but foliar spraying has to done at the right time or your light will burn them and to be honest I'm a lazy grower so I just add to my mix and suffer the cost, the results are the same but you will save money using as a foliar spray.

I did the same thing you are now a year or so ago when I discovered fulvic acid and coco. Canna A+B is a decent system though it does require some modifications for maximum potential out of many plants. Having their complete system is pretty crucial, especially the Cannazym for the 0-2-1 ratio change at 10ml per gallon right at the flip to flower. They suggest this for a reason, but I have found Botanicare Hydroplex at 0-10-6 and used at 1/5th the strength (2ml per gallon, not much at all) has dramatically cut costs with their system while still maintaining the suggested nutrient ratios. There seems to be another benefit to this product and I find that Botanicare's products generally do what they say they do and this product says it helps flowers grow bigger with a large complex of things like amino-acids which may (or may not) activate biological processes I don't understand through some kind of hormone/ATP reaction.

I do run the canna complete system with added calmag and silicone but I like the sound of this and when I run low on cannazym & rhizotonic I may give the hydroplex & bioweed a go just to see if there is any benefit.

So... RO Coco mix, Canna A+B, and Cal-Mag Plus as a kind of "standard."
Then replace the Rhizotonic with BioWeed (or similar) which saves cash because it's $20 per liter and used at 2.5ml per gallon MAX, instead of $60 per liter and used at 10-15ml per gallon.
Then replace the Cannazym with Hydroplex (or similar, LKB is good too) which lets that $20 go 5x further plus some extra flower enhancing benefits.
Then run the BioBoost as a foliar spray, kablam, saving even more skrilla and getting the same results.

Add in the Silicon because that stuff is for real, 3ml per gallon of the ProTekt is fine. And finally wrap it all up and balance out the pH with the Fulvic Acid and you have yourself a pretty intense system, complete with a strong backbone in things like amino-acids, auxins, cytokinens, and organic chelates, all of which have demonstrated to myself to have a great impact on the final product from coco grown plants.

I use growth technology liquid silicon at 2.5ml per gallon and it definitely makes a difference.
I've never used fulvic acid as a ph down although with the extra benefits it may well find its way onto my shopping list. I use a regular phosphoric acid ph down as the extra phosphorous is always good to flowering plants.

 

[charlestonchunk]

Perfect info. Because i just said im underfeeding. New meter says i have been at like 500 i am at 800 now ec of 1.2 i think i need to dilute it more and go for a 1 ec then 1,1 ec and so one. Ypur right they all look different. Im growing similar straines next. Whats your favorite...good in coco...etc.

The lock horror gave me 700 plus grams, flowered-for 12 plus weaks each bud was 30g min dried amd currd. 4 plants. Now in scroggig 2 plants vegged 3 months and supper cropped. I have 2 plants in 5 galmunder a 1k. Been using a 600 but theres a major difference. I got the huge air cooled sealed hood from a buddy. 700 dollar light and ballast. Cant wait to see the diffesnce

 

[Screaming trees]

I'm with you on the folier spray @reddiamond. Too much of a hassle for me. Great if you got all the time in the world to baby everything. But not here lol.
I found out some interesting things with these last experiments I done. I done a Canna regiment with only 5.25ml of A&B, 5.25ml Rhizotonic ( 2.50ml a gallon of Rhizotonic after week 3 in flowering), 5.25ml of Cannazym a gallon from clone to finish with 3ml cal/mag plus and 2ml Silica Blast a gallon. And I couldn't believe how healthy they were and how big the flowers got. The theory was what's the least I could use and how much of the salt I could flush away without flushing away the minimal amount of nutes I was putting in that was left over from the last flushing. I'd test the ppm's on each flush and they were up there still! Ph run off was excellent too. Shocked the shit out of me. Oh and another thing I've been doing is adding 1/8 to 1/2 tsp of Great White per 4 gallons of mixed nutes EVERY single watering. I started the low dose Great White every watering a while back and noted better results instead of the 1/2 tsp a gallon every couple weeks. Because in my thinking if your flushing every watering it's better to have a very low dose of beneficials every watering. Salt flushing is everything and if you can keep you PH right and keep them salts down its pretty much child's play in Coco. It's fool proof.
5.7ph at clone, 5.7-5.8ph in early Veg, 5.8-5.9ph in very late veg ( if your doing a really long veg) 5.8-5.9ph first flip of 12/12, 5.9-6.0ph at the start of 3 weeks in flower, 6.0-6.2 ph on weeks 5 and finish. Of course this is on an 8 week flowering strain. And another thing I started doing ( and this is only with clones) is adding Boost at the beginning of weeks 2 or 3 depending on the bud site development at 5.25ml a gallon.. Starting right on week 4 all the way to finish I add PK13/14 at 1.5ml a gallon. I just have better luck adding PK13/14 in like this. But all this goes back to about how much I flush every watering. I was just seeing how much of a cheap ass I could be and see what happens lol. And I'll be dam if it didn't turn out beautifully. I'm ready to start this Fulvic and Humic acid addition. I'm thinking this is going to be the icing on the cake for a low budget grow to stretch that nute cost. Because if it helps with channeling absorbtion of macro and micros then it's going to be a home run.
Did you see this Massive Auto grow done ? You got to see and read this. Blew me away. 900g dry weight off one girl. http://www.dutch-passion.nl/en/news-and-development/dutch-passion-automazar-grow-review/

 

[Screaming trees]

Copied and pasted.
While clicking through the fertilizer section on Sunlightsupply.com you might notice the vast array of products a grower has to choose from. The reality is, though, that selecting a fertilizer is just one of the many choices a grower must make. I cannot stress enough to novice growers the importance of a complete nutrient feeding program. While a complete base nutrient fertilizer provides everything a plant must have to live, fertilizer supplements allow your plants to go beyond simply surviving and encourage them to thrive; fully maximizing their genetic potential. There are several supplements that are engineered to improve plant performance by accelerating nutrient uptake, boosting blossom production, protecting and increasing the plant's root system, or modifying a plant's growth habit. Humic acid and Fulvic acid are two related supplements that can boost a plant's performance by improving nutrient absorption while simultaneously improving the soil structure.

Humic acid is derived from the organic components of soil, humus, peat and coal. It is a byproduct of microorganisms that break down dead organic matter. Humic acid is actually a complex mixture of many different organic acids formed during the biodegradation of organic material. Fulvic acids are humic acids of lower molecular weight that have higher oxygen content. Fulvic acid is able to pass through plant cell membranes easily, which is how it is able to aid in the absorption of plant nutrients.



Humic acid is a fantastic soil conditioner, especially for soils or soilless mixes that are low in organic matter. Humic acid improves the quality of the soil or soilless medium by increasing the media's ability to retain water and helping to facilitate the movement of nutrients from one soil particle to another, making the fertilizer more evenly available across the media. In addition, humic acid acts as a chelating agent, latching onto micronutrients and forming a humic acid-micronutrient complex that is more easily and efficiently absorbed by plants. Humic acid aids in the absorption of magnesium, calcium, zinc, manganese, and iron. In scientific studies, the application of 50 mg (of humic acid derived from leonardite) per liter of hydroponic solution yielded an almost 20% increase in root mass and a 9% increase in the vegetative mass of the plant (Adani et al, 2008).

Fulvic acid accelerates the absorption of nutrients by aiding the transport of these nutrients across the pathways by which they must enter into the plant. Fulvic acid essentially grabs hold of immobile or heavy molecular compounds and streamlines their absorption. It is known to increase the absorption of the same elements as humic acid, and also aids in the absorption of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. These elements are transported into the plant tissue faster and easier, resulting in more rapid growth and bigger yields. Fulvic acid also allows plants to thrive in higher ppm nutrient solutions, effectively reducing the risk of over-fertilization.

Both humic and fulvic acid are recommended for use in all stages of plant development. They are a great way to supercharge your plants, improve your soil and get more complete use of your fertilizers. Give humic and fulvic acid a try if you want to really see what your plants are capable of!

 

[Screaming trees]

Copied and pasted. I'm thinking either or both Humboldt Flavorful and Diamond Nectar. From what I'm reading, Humboldt Flavorful is more Humic Acid and Diamond Nectar is more fulvic Acid. Could be wrong but that's how I'm understanding it.
Humic and Fulvics (and a brief note on Chealting)
Humic acids are a complex mixture of organic materials. They change the water retention of a grow media and the of
the plant cell, causing it to swell up with more water, creating an osmotic imbalance and promoting the uptake of
nutrient salts. Fulvic Acid, Nature’s chelating agent, is the most powerful type of Humic Acid. Important to the
Krebs Cycle, Fulvic Acid shuttles essential elements across a cell membrane effortlessly and insures the availability
of those elements. Studies show that plants treated with Fulvic Acid show a 36% increase in harvest weight, a 36.5%
increase in growth, and they flower ahead of control plants.
Diamond Nectar - A fulvic acid extract providing a highly available & diverse range of bioactive plant compounds.
Diamond Nectar supercharges your nutrients in order to optimize the health of your plants and the quality of your
crops. By accelerating nutrient absorption at the root boundary zone where minerals enter the plant, small particle
sized fulvic acids optimize nutrient uptake in fast growing vegetation....

Humboldt FlavorFul is a strong solution of 8% refined Humic acid concentrate, a little known and highly useful additive.

The majority of refined Humic acid formulas on the market are .01% concentration. The clear appearance of these watered down derivatives is an indication of the low concentration. FlavorFul is 8% refined Humic acid with a dark, amber color indicating the high concentration.

FlavorFul is comprised of long chains of organic carboxyl and polyhydroxide acids. This complex molecule is very active with many open rings, giving it a large capacity to hold and exchange nutritive cations and anions.

This beneficial exchange of ions enhances cell wall permeability throughout the root and leaf systems and increases negatively charged colloidal particles capable of holding and exchanging cations. Electrolytes are the key to healthy ion exchanges in plants and animals.

Just as an athlete's body needs electrolytes to maintain proper function on the field, plants thirst for electrolytes to optimize health and to maintain sustained vigorous growth.

FlavorFul contains electrolytes that stimulate plant walls, resulting in smooth and consistent uptake and delivery of vitamins, minerals, nutrients and trace elements in soil and fertilizers.

DIRECTIONS: Add 1-5 mL per gallon of water or nutrient solution.

DERIVED FROM: Leonardite.

 

[reddiamond]

I'm with you on the folier spray @reddiamondDid you see this Massive Auto grow done ? You got to see and read this. Blew me away. 900g dry weight off one girl. http://www.dutch-passion.nl/en/news-and-development/dutch-passion-automazar-grow-review/

That is a monster auto and something I would realy love to do is grow a tree but I'm so "space limited" at the moment that it's not gonna happen anytime soon If I did I would use 4 x 250w hps for better light distribution rather than 1 single 1000w as I think that would be key in getting monster yields

I found out some interesting things with these last experiments I done. I done a Canna regiment with only 5.25ml of A&B, 5.25ml Rhizotonic ( 2.50ml a liter of Rhizotonic after week 3 in flowering), 5.25ml of Cannazym a liter from clone to finish with 3ml cal/mag plus and 2ml Silica Blast a liter. And I couldn't believe how healthy they were and how big the flowers got. The theory was what's the least I could use and how much of the salt I could flush away without flushing away the minimal amount of nutes I was putting in that was left over from the last flushing. I'd test the ppm's on each flush and they were up there still! Ph run off was excellent too. Shocked the shit out of me.

I did a similar thing and decided to drop my EC to see what effect it would have on runoff and plant health and found the same as you, runoff was still up there but it required less flushing and the plant looked incredibly healthy and still produced 290g of dried buds.

As for the micro herd I use myco madness as it is slightly cheaper here in the UK and easier to get hold of from local hydro shops although I only add it every 2 weeks, I like the idea of smaller amounts added with the daily feed as that would seem logical to keep the herd from being washed away between applications

I'm with you on the folier spray @reddiamondI'm ready to start this Fulvic and Humic acid addition. I'm thinking this is going to be the icing on the cake for a low budget grow to stretch that nute cost. Because if it helps with channeling absorbtion of macro and micros then it's going to be a home run.

Keep me posted on the results, I'm not currently growing at the moment so I have to make do with watching everyone else lol