The Chinese Quantum Board Knock Off Builds

boybelue

Well-Known Member
Yeah I just checked with my metal store. A 44”x44” .190 sheet of 5052 aluminum is $230 plus tax. Looks like I’ll be buying the 600 kit and breaking out the band saw
I've been thinking about different sources for heatsinks such as rd signs, auto parts and thought about checker plated toolboxes. There all aluminum and a lot of folks sell them around here for 50-75 bucks. I've got a big one now that I gave $50 for to help a buddy out. Anybody know any other cool shit that would work for heatsinks for cheap, like the baking pans, I'm sure there are other things that would be ideal and not cost as much as actual sinks.
 

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
I've been thinking about different sources for heatsinks such as rd signs, auto parts and thought about checker plated toolboxes. There all aluminum and a lot of folks sell them around here for 50-75 bucks. I've got a big one now that I gave $50 for to help a buddy out. Anybody know any other cool shit that would work for heatsinks for cheap, like the baking pans, I'm sure there are other things that would be ideal and not cost as much as actual sinks.
Yeah that’s true, thinking outside the box could be useful. I’m a sucker for clean looks though lol. There’s gotta be something that could be used for these qb288’s
 

Kenpark

Well-Known Member
Anyone tested any of these boards under an apogee or anything? I'd like to see if my results are consistent with theirs.
yes of course I tested the fotop 600 is an instant cover I mounted the boards at a distance of 31 cm between them and I took the measurements 40 cm from the canopy 1000 in the center of the table up to the corners of the 4x4 I get 560


my next building is 4 boards of 90 cm without heat sink, run to 400/450 watt at about 20 cm from the canopy, obtaining the same readings but improving the diffusion
 

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
What do you guys think about something like this? Found it while googling DIY heat sinks. I figure if I get 1x1x1 aluminum U channel at 1/8” thickness I could easily make what I need out of a couple 8 ft lengths.

177D128F-C10F-45D1-A927-8B43AA86ED59.jpeg
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
What do you guys think about something like this? Found it while googling DIY heat sinks. I figure if I get 1x1x1 aluminum U channel at 1/8” thickness I could easily make what I need out of a couple 8 ft lengths.

View attachment 4426624
Yep. Just remember its about surface area, the more you have the better it dissipates heat and if its a bit hot then blow a fan across it.
 

boybelue

Well-Known Member
What do you guys think about the thickness? As I understand it, cooling is all about the surface area, 1/16 vs 1/8 is basically the same surface area. Just that xtra 16th of surface area around the edges.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
d
What do you guys think about something like this? Found it while googling DIY heat sinks. I figure if I get 1x1x1 aluminum U channel at 1/8” thickness I could easily make what I need out of a couple 8 ft lengths.

View attachment 4426624
its hard to keep the bottom even over all those extrusions. A sheet of alu, maybe with some u-channel stuck to the back of it would be much easier and safer, you can use self addhesive tape or thermal glue. if you get one of those u-channels out of line with the rest it wont be able to make a good contact and suck out the heat from the board.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
yes of course I tested the fotop 600 is an instant cover I mounted the boards at a distance of 31 cm between them and I took the measurements 40 cm from the canopy 1000 in the center of the table up to the corners of the 4x4 I get 560


my next building is 4 boards of 90 cm without heat sink, run to 400/450 watt at about 20 cm from the canopy, obtaining the same readings but improving the diffusion
Ive already done that build, my suggestion is to add five inches, twelve cms or some between the boards and run at approx hundredfifty watts each at the board. it will help with airflow and also give a more even light. that way each board covers one meter by forty cms i perfect light conditions at around twenty cms height.

the way we worked it out was using five boards and three twoforty meanwells in a eightway wago. worked a treat, even with old diodes, you can dial in by height easily and dim by just adding and subbtracting drivers.
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
You can use thicker stuff around the outside to make it more rigid or mount it to a sheet and then use thinner narrow U channel to increase surface area down the middle sections.

I just checked out heatsinkusa , I remember been envious of the prices you guys over there could get back in the COB building days.
Now it looks expensive compared to the £10 per twin heatsink I just payed recently from diyleduk.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
What do you guys think about the thickness? As I understand it, cooling is all about the surface area, 1/16 vs 1/8 is basically the same surface area. Just that xtra 16th of surface area around the edges.
id go for eight for sheet metal if your running youre boards relatively soft, upto eighty watts. for the fins on top you can go sixteenth
 

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
d

its hard to keep the bottom even over all those extrusions. A sheet of alu, maybe with some u-channel stuck to the back of it would be much easier and safer, you can use self addhesive tape or thermal glue. if you get one of those u-channels out of line with the rest it wont be able to make a good contact and suck out the heat from the board.
If I can find a sheet cheap enough I’d just go 1/4” aluminum on the base and maybe thermal glue the u channels onto the sheet. I just checked, the king brite boards with the Cree + Uv + IR is $103 Canadian a piece! Jesus fuck they’re gouging the DIY’ers
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
If I can find a sheet cheap enough I’d just go 1/4” aluminum on the base and maybe thermal glue the u channels onto the sheet. I just checked, the king brite boards with the Cree + Uv + IR is $103 Canadian a piece! Jesus fuck they’re gouging the DIY’ers
thats a ridiculous price. Id just try to get Rita meijiu to do ninety cri lm561c boards and double up on boards, i was quoted around twentyfive for them.
 

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
thats a ridiculous price. Id just try to get Rita meijiu to do ninety cri lm561c boards and double up on boards, i was quoted around twentyfive for them.
I asked her a few weeks ago. No 90 cri unless I do a high moq. The reason for the big price jump is the 660 Cree xpe2 factor. Seems like all the boards with 660 cree’s took a big jump in price. Are they really that much more worth it?
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
I wouldnt think so. KB have some eleven led strips, you can get them in various colors and theyre cheap. add a few of those, maybe even in blue or far red and with a few small drivers you have spectrum control instead of a fixed spectrum. boards from china shouldnt cost like that
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Theyre always trying to be clever with the pricing, dimmers for twenty, kits can cost more than the part etc. you just have to stay one step a head, usually you can find the Deal if you look around. Get quotes for all their boards, boards only and take it from there. no board is going to be worth twice the price of another samsung board, atleast in ali
 
Top