The Chinese Quantum Board Knock Off Builds

HustleBones

Member
The only thing I don’t like about the 600w set up is the spacing or lack of, which is why I want to build my own frame assembly to spread the boards out. I still plan to run them at 80-100w each board with 80-100w of 4K strips. My only issue is figuring out the heatsink without having to order them from China and pay for shipping. @HustleBones how much did you pay for shipping?
It was like $150 for shipping. It was under $1200 for the 2 600w units. And you could easily mount the heatsink differently, or hang it, and spread these out with a couple simple aluminum brackets in the same way you can DIY. I'm actually already planning on this as soon as I get them wired, I'll buy some new sturdy aluminum framing to remount them into simple enough. I also noticed like someone said above, even when buying a bunch of boards, its hard to justify buying everything separately for the price they offer it all to you too. You don't save.
 

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
This is from one of the Ali companies. Maybe I should just go this route and then cut out sections for ventilation and what not.

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HustleBones

Member
It’s $698 Canadian for just 6 of their v4 boards and 6 of the matching individual heat sinks. Jesus fucks that’s not even with shipping.
Yeah, thats why I ordered mine during the 11:11 sale on baba. Saved me $108 on the overall price.
  • 600W LM301B+CREE 660nm+UV+IR qb288 hlg quantum board kit
    600W LM301B+CREE 660nm+UV+IR qb288 hlg quantum board kit
    USD 540.00 x 2
Product Amount US $ 1080.00
Shipping Fee US $ 155.00
Discount US $ - 108.00
Order Amount US $ 1127.00
 

FlakeyFoont

Well-Known Member
The only thing I don’t like about the 600w set up is the spacing or lack of, which is why I want to build my own frame assembly to spread the boards out. I still plan to run them at 80-100w each board with 80-100w of 4K strips. My only issue is figuring out the heatsink without having to order them from China and pay for shipping. @HustleBones how much did you pay for shipping?
I got my heatsinks off ebay, and they are recycled out of some heavy electronic equipment. Aluminum, very easy to cut or drill. Exact size doesn't matter if you're not trying to fit it unit into small space. Anyway, cut the shipping from China waaaay down, lol! Building the frame is cake and pie, lol!
 

HustleBones

Member
Wish I just had someone with a video or picture diagram that wasn't fancy diagrams for electricians and DC/AC hobbyist lol. I'm lost.
 

FlakeyFoont

Well-Known Member
Wish I just had someone with a video or picture diagram that wasn't fancy diagrams for electricians and DC/AC hobbyist lol. I'm lost.
All that's in this thread, and many times over. It's how I figured out how to build mine, and I am lightyears from being a brainiac on this stuff.

Have you considered buying a ready to roll unit, then seeing if you feel comfortable copying it?
 

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
what about grabbing a 46”x 46” aluminum plate. I can get it in .190 .250 .375 .500. This way I wouldn’t have to buy any aluminum angle stock to build the frame out of. That would save some money alone. Then I could cut out sections to reduce the weight and also to allow cooling air to pass through the light.
 

HustleBones

Member
All that's in this thread, and many times over. It's how I figured out how to build mine, and I am lightyears from being a brainiac on this stuff.

Have you considered buying a ready to roll unit, then seeing if you feel comfortable copying it?
I figured it out, but no, I'm more inclined at other aspects in life, and while I've looked over this for months and through a lot of these threads, most AC/DC wiring is beyond me, no matter how simple you try to convince me that it is, I'd have to learn more hands on and via a teacher, than just graphs on the internet. Which is why I've tried to link up with a couple local LED builders. The one I had helping me, was stumped tonight, and I figured it out. So while I'm sure you mean well, it just goes to show. :D;)
 

HustleBones

Member
My main problem now, is the driver on/off cables, they're just dangling, and she told me to leave them uncapped, and that they never mess with them. For all the money they're making in there, they should at least be able to get some better designers in there to build these lights. Kinda a shame, but thats where they cut costs, and able to supply diodes for cheaper still. These look great otherwise. Excited to go plug it in.
 

FlakeyFoont

Well-Known Member
I figured it out, but no, I'm more inclined at other aspects in life, and while I've looked over this for months and through a lot of these threads, most AC/DC wiring is beyond me, no matter how simple you try to convince me that it is, I'd have to learn more hands on and via a teacher, than just graphs on the internet. Which is why I've tried to link up with a couple local LED builders. The one I had helping me, was stumped tonight, and I figured it out. So while I'm sure you mean well, it just goes to show. :D;)
You seemed confused, i tried to help... goes to show what?

Good luck whichever way you go.
 

HustleBones

Member
You seemed confused, i tried to help... goes to show what?

Good luck whichever way you go.
It goes to show that this can even leave an experienced individual stumped sometimes. He's been building his units out of street signs DIY. Didn't have to try to make me feel as if I was unable to do this. It's a matter of opinion on someones individual worth. I already spent enough money on this. I'm used to running HID, or growing sungrown cannabis. This is a different ball-field for me. I don't fuck with electrical in any grow space, I do the rest of the work. I actually had it right to begin with if you go back and look at my posts, but nobody really confirmed it. bongsmilie
 

HustleBones

Member
And all of these units are built differently depending on design, I didn't buy a DIY unit. I bought a complete unit, that was wired, except the driver and frame connected. Unassembled is the word for it. lol
 

HustleBones

Member
Now you have me confused, and my lights work, lol!
There's so many variations to these lights, even the driver makes the difference.

To put it simply, my driver was detached, and the wagos were only connected to one circuit, I had to complete the circuit and connect the driver in the proper manner. I wanted to make sure I had it right before I just went and plugged it in.
 

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
There's so many variations to these lights, even the driver makes the difference.

To put it simply, my driver was detached, and the wagos were only connected to one circuit, I had to complete the circuit and connect the driver in the proper manner. I wanted to make sure I had it right before I just went and plugged it in.
Glad you got it sorted. Let’s see those shiny lights! Question for ya. How are those two heat sinks joined? I see the seam line but no brackets holding them together. I’m wondering if I order that kit, could i rip the heat sinks with a metal band saw and make my own individual heat sinks
 

HustleBones

Member
Glad you got it sorted. Let’s see those shiny lights! Question for ya. How are those two heat sinks joined? I see the seam line but no brackets holding them together. I’m wondering if I order that kit, could i rip the heat sinks with a metal band saw and make my own individual heat sinks
They're bright as fuck, and I see no reason why not. But realistically, its up to you when it comes to the heat sink. Brackets are on the front side. I'm gonna stabilize it more, and get my own brackets to spread them out, and a place to mount the driver.
 

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
They're bright as fuck, and I see no reason why not. But realistically, its up to you when it comes to the heat sink. Brackets are on the front side. I'm gonna stabilize it more, and get my own brackets to spread them out, and a place to mount the driver.
Yeah I just checked with my metal store. A 44”x44” .190 sheet of 5052 aluminum is $230 plus tax. Looks like I’ll be buying the 600 kit and breaking out the band saw
 

mooray

Well-Known Member
Any chance I can I get a quick little doublecheck on the below? I'm not too hip to these, but have been reading a little and I think this is what I've settled on...

Buy a couple of Kingbrite qb288 boards and attach to a 12" x 24" piece of 1/8" aluminum sheet and wire in an XLG-240-H-AB in parallel? And the "B" means it has the dimming feature, rated at 27-56vdc, dimmed until it reaches around 160 watts at the wall? No red flags in there?

I assume the dimming affects voltage and so I'd need to be careful not to ever adjust it without monitoring watts because it'd fry boards at 56v?

And I could just as easily expand this on a larger sheet to run with three boards at 60-70 watts each?
 
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