ApfelStrudel
Well-Known Member
Yeah the B type I can turn down to 6W on a 150W CC driver through a 100k pot.
The Chinese Quantum Board Knock Off Builds
- Thread starter zypheruk
- Start date
Yeah the B type I can turn down to 6W on a 150W CC driver through a 100k pot.
Hurricane09
Well-Known Member
How hot can you run these boards without burning them up? 35 degrees C? More, less?
Hurricane09
Well-Known Member
@Rocket Soul , what a good safe temp w/o a heatsink?
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
The lower the better, obviously. The chips have a max temp of 85C, but it doesnt doesnt mean they explode at 86. I think most people try to run their samsungs between 50-60 with heatsink. But without heatsink your margins are a bit closer so id recommend between 35-45 if possible. That way you dont lose to much of efficiency. We achieve it by running Fotops at around 150w each.
Update on the fixtures i got going at my mates: all of them are doing very well and similar results even though they have different spectrums (3000k, 2700k, some 90 Cri) and diodes (bridgelux/lm561c/lm301b). Watt is the same on all fixtures: 3 x hlg240 per 2 trays.
The one difference is the over built fixture, one fotop per 16 inches, 5 to 2 trays, about 2000 diodes per m2 running at nominal current or about .2 w per diode. We knew it would do better than the rest cause of the off the chart light levels. Now the plants under are allready giving signs of finishing earlier than the rest, fall colors on the leafs even without having started flush. It will prob finish about a week earlier than the rest, which might not be a good thing as our cultivar gains the most weight the last week. We will see.
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
@Hurricane09
If a board can take 50-60° with a heatsink, then a board can take 50-60° without a heatsink...
The thing that matters when comparing heatsink vs non heatsink is the wattage per board. The board & heatsink combo can pull more wattage while remaining within the desired temp range than just the board by itself. That does NOT mean your lonely boards should be run at lower final resting temps (maybe @Rocket Soul can expound), only that it takes less wattage to achieve the final resting temps. What you choose as your final resting temp is situational and a personal preference (after the failure limits have been defined).
Lots of ppl use lower wattages/board for increased efficacy (lm/w) and at these wattages the temps experienced don't require heatsinks to expel any heat. Some scenarios though call for excess heat. Sometimes cost is a factor and spending double for the same PPF isn't reasonable. So, to a degree (yes, pun intended), it's all just preference.
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Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
The reason i recommend lower case temp with no heatsink is than with heatsink is that when we did the tests the increase in board temp didnt seem very linear: you add wattage slowly and the temp creeps upwards slowly until you come to a point where just a little extra wattage gets your temps running away. With a heatsink this didnt seem to happen.@Hurricane09
If a board can take 50-60° with a heatsink, then a board can take 50-60° without a heatsink...
The thing that matters when comparing heatsink vs non heatsink is the wattage per board. The board & heatsink combo can pull more wattage while remaining within the desired temp range than just the board by itself. That does NOT mean your lonely boards should be run at lower final resting temps (maybe @Rocket Soul can expound), only that it takes less wattage to achieve the final resting temps. What you choose as your final resting temp is situational and a personal preference (after the failure limits have been defined).
Lots of ppl use lower wattages/board for increased efficacy (lm/w) and at these wattages the temps experienced don't require heatsinks to expel any heat. Some scenarios though call for excess heat. Sometimes cost is a factor and spending double for the same PPF isn't reasonable. So, to a degree (yes, pun intended), it's all just preference.
I dont dont a problem with 60° case temp, i have a problem with getting it there in an orderly and stable fashion. It seemed to us that the temps where stable til around 45° but after that increasing the wattage made the temps increase in a very fast and uncontrollable way which we didnt care for. When you have a larger thermal mass with heatsink this doesnt seem to happen.
I recommend watching youtubing ledgardener quantum board torture, these boards, or at least the original HLG boards can take a lot more punishment than you think! But doing it kinda negates all the benefits of led.
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
Just thinking about this, what is CCT? The sun is supposedly 5800k, or 501nm.
How are these anywhere close to what they are rated, like as in the example with the sun?...
2,897,000 ÷ 2700k = 1,073nm
2,897,000 ÷ 3000k = 966nm
2,897,000 ÷ 4000k = 724nm
2,897,000 ÷ 5000k = 579nm
2,897,000 ÷ 5800k = 501nm
2,897,000 ÷ 2100k = 1,380nm
Graph only goes to 780nm??? Seems to me they are centered closer to 580-620nm or 5000k-ish???
HPS is 2100k, or 1,380nm, and I think true black body as well?...
Again, no where near 1,380nm...
Is my conversion off? What's going on? Is the sun a black body (thought it was nuclear fusion and fision of gases, not black body irradiation?)? Why is it correlating but the others aren't?
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
I dont dont think this is the way you calculate this. Many different spectrums can give the same CCT, its the amount of red, green and blue that decides the Cct (i think
). Check out some spectrums in google but make sure you use different lighting tech, hps/cmh/flourecent etc use the same cct and different lighting tech you will see that they are different. Where do you get that sunlight is 501nm and what do you mean by it? Most dominant wavelength? Where do you get the 2897000 number from?
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
I think I figured it out.I dont dont think this is the way you calculate this. Many different spectrums can give the same CCT, its the amount of red, green and blue that decides the Cct (i think
Where do you get the 2897000 number from?
CCT is an aproximation, of the visual spectrum produced, by heating a black body radiator to a certain temperture using the Kevin scale.
Stars (and other things) emit different wavelengths at different temps. Above shows the different spectrum distributions at different kelvin temperatures. Only part of the electromagnetic spectrum is visible and this is where the disconnect is coming from (I think).
When talking about a 3000°k light (LED,CMH,HPS,ect) we're talking about comparing the visual spectrum emitted by a black body radiator (not the peak wavelength, but the visual spectrum) at 3000°k, to that of the visual spectrums produced by the electric lights (LED,CMH,HPS, ect).
Looking at the kelvin:spectrum distributions one can see the different ratios of blue to green to red that are noticed on the visual side of the spectrum, most have correlating peak wavelengths outside the visual spectrum.
When looking at the 3000°k led spectrum, the amount of red (compared to green and blue) is close to the amount of red (compared to green and blue) compared to a star with a temperature of 3000°k. The peak intensity of a 3000°k star is (2,897,000 ÷ 3000) at 966nm, but this wavelength is irrelevant to the visual spectrum, so if we center our focus to the visual part of the spectrum (even though the spectrum is most intense at 966nm) then we see the color distribution and RGB ratios that we're accustomed to seeing when we look up our spectrums of our specific lights and color temps. (Perhaps what @Rocket Soul you were getting at?)
So in my understanding, CCT just compares the visual part of the spectrums produced by stars (or other black body radiators) at certain kelvin temps, to the visual part of spectrums produced by our electric lights, all despite the stars' peak wavelengths at those kelvin temperatures are actually outside visual limits.
Here's the link describing "Wiens Displacement Constant"...
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wien's_displacement_law
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Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
Current ripple.
On your drivers, when they are talking about the current ripple, is that a "+/-" figure? That the current could be +(θ)mA or -(θ)mA at any given time? Or that the current could be only +(θ)mA at given time or only -(θ)mA at a given time?
Or is it the total range in which the current fluctuates, to the point that the current measurement would actually be swinging only (θ/2)mA up and (θ/2)mA down?
EDIT: Does anyone use Powerland drivers? Looking at the PLD150-SMT-142, trying to determine if I can adjust the output to 1.26A @ 112v for ~140w, but don't want current spiking over 1.3A so trying to determine settings considering max current ripple of 150mA.
On your drivers, when they are talking about the current ripple, is that a "+/-" figure? That the current could be +(θ)mA or -(θ)mA at any given time? Or that the current could be only +(θ)mA at given time or only -(θ)mA at a given time?
Or is it the total range in which the current fluctuates, to the point that the current measurement would actually be swinging only (θ/2)mA up and (θ/2)mA down?
EDIT: Does anyone use Powerland drivers? Looking at the PLD150-SMT-142, trying to determine if I can adjust the output to 1.26A @ 112v for ~140w, but don't want current spiking over 1.3A so trying to determine settings considering max current ripple of 150mA.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Before you start looking at powerland drivers try to find a supplier. They are quite hard to find with low moq. No point in spec-ing one out unless you can buy one
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
Found that out last night, 500 MOQ...Before you start looking at powerland drivers try to find a supplier. They are quite hard to find with low moq. No point in spec-ing one out unless you can buy one
driel
Well-Known Member
I've been going through their store and some lights have little to no information regarding PAR values while others give them but don't have heights listed. So I'm curious which of the current set of meijiu lights would be most effective/economical for the price for a 4x4 or 5x5 tent? Would like to try quantum boards but there's so much I feel I'm missing.
fragileassassin
Well-Known Member
aim for at least 30-35w per square foot. This being actual wattage from the drivers.
Their kits are pretty complete.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Moflow
Well-Known Member
Too early to tell yet but no negative results, which is a good sign.
I had the Somango under one and a Royal Gorrilla under the other for around 40 days and they looked good. Somango chopped last week, still drying and the Royal Gorrilla is coming down this week. I ran the plants for over 10 weeks this round.
I stopped feeding around week 8.
Here's the Gorrilla, I pulled it out for a pic.
