The dehydrated molasses I would leave out because it's just gonna end up on your floor and odds the benefits of are gone when it goes to the powder, just leaving you with the sugar which sure if you're outside has it's place but with your op and small pots; attempting to up your microbe count isn't going to do much on the positive side but make you feel better.
I would've dropped the blood meal since you've got the alfalfa meal. The glacial rock dust, and basalt and azomite are pulling triple duty and are pretty useless in horticulture (small pots), and all the information about minerals needing to be added to your soil is citing data from a 1930's magazine and now rock quarries are capitalizing anyway. Skip that shit. You're using kelp cause it's full minerals you don't need to buy a bunch of useless smashed rocks.
You don't need oyster shell flour and lime, though I do like piggy backing the gypsum.
What you're missing that would really get your soil flying is langbeinite. Also known as kmag or sulpomag. You only need about 1/4 cup per cubic foot but that's the one that will get your potassium levels to where they need to be.
The mix you have right now is gonna be loaded up on Nitrogen and Calcium, your phosphorus levels should be ok...but adding a slower release phosphate source like crab shell meal in addition would help, that or just retop dress more bone meal every 4 weeks or so with your pot size.
And you're definitely going to be hurting for magnesium and potassium.
Your plants will get good bud in your mix for sure...but getting your K and mag up will increase your trichomes and resin.
Hey thanks for the detailed analysis. Wasn't expecting that, much appreciated.
I was shooting for diversity so thats why I have several sources of rock dusts (not using large amounts of each) same with the calcium, low amounts of each = 1 cup total, which was the standard calcium input I saw on recipes. The oyster shell is flakes so super slow release for that.
I used the dolomite for magnesium as sulpomag is on back order at the store for me. Should be plenty of mag in my worm castings too?
I thought Bone meal was pretty slow release? I think even the alfalfa and kelp meal have P in them, enough to contribute some to the total. And I did use 1 cup of bonemeal, more than anything else so I would think Im good on the P. Worm castings are high in P as well and I use 20% in my mix. - Homeade, so high quality and nutrient dense, Im in the prairies far from the coast, so crab shell is impossible to get here. I really tried to get everything possible, and the things in this mix is what I could get in bulk locally. There is one thing I want to get shipped, which is neem cake, will be $100 for 20 pounds of it.
I would use more alfalfa and skip the blood meal, but people always warned of how you should use just a little of alfalfa and be careful as it burns easily. Even though the NPK of it seems pretty balanced and low versus blood meal which is 12-0-0 ! So i settled on using 50/50 of each.
I guess I will see how it goes and just feed extra and go from there. My main concern is identifying which nutrient I am lacking in when the deficiency shows up, and adjusting my mix for the next run. Ive got some that are 4 Weeks in, and yellowing a bit, I will take some pictures and post up if thats ok? Then again my run off is coming out at 6.2, So its not in the ideal 6.5-6.8 range. I was thinking that might have something to do with it and was going to try to fix that first for the next run. Its low because I used peat moss, but also used sulfur on my worm castings because PH was in the 8 range. It came out a little too low, so will re use some soil that is at 6.5 already, and not add anymore sulfur for now.
