SS run-off ppm

My mistake, I have earth worm castings added already. I didnt realize it was a compost. I have everything on subs list except the for substituting the base.
 
Humic and fulvic acids are a product of humus, but hard to replace good humus (compost)
 
You can do without it, but it would be an ideal. I use dried potters clay from a ceramics shop. I "crush" rather than grind to get various particulate sizes (small, smaller and dust), and mix that into the mix at about 10:1 (10 soil, 1 clay). One can get as anal as you want in mixing the "IDEAL" soils. I also incorporate BioChar in my soils, preparing it like I do clay, and mix it in at about 5:1. This can get real confusing real fast for the beginner. I suggest you keep it simple at first, then get more detailed as you go.

Compost (humus) is just any decaying vegetative organic matter. It adds many things other than nutrients, it helps build proper structure as well. In order to more closely replicate natural soil you need about a 50/50 mix of mineral/organic matter.

Most all of this is relevant only to sustainable agriculture, and not really that critical in our short term use of our soils, unless you re-use it.
 
Jack, these are great comments and tips. Good point about the sustainable vs. our short term needs.

In my opinion, if we really wanted to radically drop the cost of growing, we'd use larger pots, organic soil properly built the first time, and then simply re-amended with compost and EWC. Some tea on occasion. Little molasses, etc. When a plant is done, we cut it off at the base, make a small hole in the soil next to the stem, and plan your new plant. This wouldn't likely work well for SuperSoil, as it is obviously too strong for a new plant.
 
Im a quick learner and its making sense. I figured the clay would come bagged and wasnt sure about what form it would come in. So none of my ingredients contain humus? And should I just mix in boitone and plant tone asap and let it continue to cook?
 
I re-use all my soils. The only thing I can't control is that the continual mixing during re-use is very similar to over tilling, which in the agricultural world leads to compaction. Since I am constantly adding stuff to improve the structure, I believe it really isn't a problem. The BioChar seems to hold nutrients in an available form, so I need fewer nutrients to achieve the same results. It also provides an incredible environment for the microherd to multiply in.
 
I like the idea of not tilling, and if you present new roots soon enough, the fungal network will continue serving the new plant's roots. To me that's the essence of nature, but the recycling of soil isn't as neat and tidy of following the SS recipe / system. So not sure how I'll transition into no-till.
 
Dude, just be neat and tidy for now. I'm embarked on a course of extreme education here, and I tend to get so much further into things than any gardener NEEDS to be in order to be successful.
All of what I do is to satisfy my own educational craving. If you also decide that's what you want, great. But don't think that you have to do all of this to grow. Just understanding the basics will get you so much further than the average guy/gal out there.
 
Make sure you use the proper size potting containers. For instance Sub uses one gallon and seven gallon. I use party cup and three gallon grow bags. The grow bags are tall and hold as much dirt as #5
 
boneheadbob said:
Make sure you use the proper size potting containers. For instance Sub uses one gallon and seven gallon. I use party cup and three gallon grow bags. The grow bags are tall and hold as much dirt as #5
Click to expand...

Im doing the same as you but Im going to use 3 gal Geopots. They arent very tall but wide. Will the be a problem since the roots will be closer to the SS at transplant?
 
It's kind of a trade off. Shorter wider pots you'll have to water a bit more often, but taller more narrow pots tend to still be wet deep down and can lead to roots sitting in wet soil continually. Your choice is probably best for you.
 
Usint short pots may very well lead to not enough room for SS/buffer. Thats why I went with grow bags which are tall and hold moisture too long like Jack says. Its a trade off that worked well during the summer but maybe not so well in winter.

I will be careful and mist the top two or three inches while waiting for it dry below
 
Come to think of it 3g geopots hold very little soil at all.
I thought about mixing the SS 1 to 4 with a soilless mix and just use that instead of a buffer zone
 
Thanks Jack. Your help has been invaluable. Im starting an organic garden of my own next season with a variety of veggies. Ill probably have a few questions in the future for you. Ill be composting leaves, coffee grounds and organic leftovers over the winter. Do i need to keep it covered and any other suggestions?
 
somedude247 said:
Thanks Jack. Your help has been invaluable. Im starting an organic garden of my own next season with a variety of veggies. Ill probably have a few questions in the future for you. Ill be composting leaves, coffee grounds and organic leftovers over the winter. Do i need to keep it covered and any other suggestions?
Click to expand...

Naw, just turn it with a pitch fork periodically. I would recommend adding some alfalfa to it at some point though. Alfalfa is good to compost. If you know any bunny breeders, add bunny poo as well. You can also use it straight from the bunny. It makes for a wonderful tea.
 
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