SS run-off ppm

somedude247 said:
Thank you! Thats the kind of answer I was looking for.
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No problem. To me, soil either has a good structure, or it doesn't. To me using a soil with no added nutes is better because you KNOW all the variables, because you put them there. This isn't rocket science, but knowing all the variables will put you way ahead in the game.
 
boneheadbob said:
I would not trust Roots to have excellent quality control so when you buy a bag and grow with it, you may get the perfect amount of NPK and trace minerals or you may get too much of one and not enough of another.

So dont worry about your soil, use it and if you start seeing a nute def http://www.weedfarmer.com/cannabis/tables_guide.php
Correvt it using that chart. Just dont put your seedlings in that mix of yours. Things will be fine.
Click to expand...

Do not wait untill you see a nute def. this has fucked me up several times by stunting growth of my plants.
 
Week 4 of flower now, and this is easily the best grow I have ever done. No deficiencies, no measuring, just watering.
 
Rrog said:
Week 4 of flower now, and this is easily the best grow I have ever done. No deficiencies, no measuring, just watering.
Click to expand...

Sweet man! But did you use a base soil or peat moss? When I was making my list, I had several guys tell me that peat moss would be good. I dont have to make the BEST soil, but I do want to make sure its still really good. If Im gonna have issues with deficiencies, then I might as well start over. All I want to have to do is "just water."

Like I stated earlier, the only changes I made was peat moss instead of soil and added cow manure. Everything else is just like sub's list.
 
I used Rootz as the base soil. This is already an amended soil, so substituting an amended Rootz for unamended peat would start you off with less than desired I would say. The manure might help if it's not fresh
 
The manure is the bagged stuff from home depot. What sucks is that I spent 2-3 days asking questions here and several guys said to use peat moss, it wouldnt make much difference. A few said soil, but majority didnt. Now, just the opposite. The plants planned to go in it are just a week old from seed, so I have time to make a new batch before flowering. Ill use this mix to start a compost heap for my tomato garden next year.
 
I'm not an expert by any means, but the plants are started in the base soil in 1 gal pots, and the base soil is covering the supersoil. So for the first few weeks all the plants have to grow in is the base soil.

If the base is an amended soil like Rootz, then plenty of food for the plant. If the base soil is peat, I don't see how that would work
 
I use peat as an ingredient for a soil less mix, along with sphagnum, perlite, clay, sand, manure, EWC, Bio Char, and compost. Remember, you're trying to duplicate the structure of natural soil.
 
The guys a while back said all the other stuff I added would provide the nutes and an amended soil wasnt needed. Im not concerned about vegging, just about flowering. I have a veg mix Ive used before. But did I get bad info? What is in the amended soil that all the ingredients I used dont produce?
 
Jack Harer said:
I use peat as an ingredient for a soil less mix, along with sphagnum, perlite, clay, sand, manure, EWC, Bio Char, and compost. Remember, you're trying to duplicate the structure of natural soil.
Click to expand...

Now this makes about the most sense so far. But a lot of guys said they use it for a "soil" mix, but I see the difference.
 
To make a similar soil I used:
Pro-mix (probably BX, don't remember)
Cow manure composted with peat
Home-made worm castings
Blood/Bone meal for N-P
Kelp for micros-K
Shrimp meal for N-P-micros
Pelletized chicken manure for N-P-K-Ca
Dolomite lime to balance, even though Pro-mix was limed.
Watered in to cook with molasses and a micro-dose of humic acids.

Took a sample yesterday, it's been "cooking" for maybe two months and contains live worms. About a pinch (25g) in 250ml of water. Water started 12 ppm 7.3 pH. Came out 350 ppm, 6.4 pH.


It's working great even though I severely ammended the recipe to make it less hot. I know what I'm doing with organic gardening and simply wanted a very "live" substrate. Not necessarily a subcool supersoil (just add water).

If I come upon any N deficiencies I apply 5-1-1 fish emulsion. Along with low ppm liquid kelp foliar feed every week or two to counteract deficiencies.
 
The guys a while back said all the other stuff I added would provide the nutes and an amended soil wasnt needed. Im not concerned about vegging, just about flowering. I have a veg mix Ive used before. But did I get bad info? What is in the amended soil that all the ingredients I used dont produce?
Click to expand...


In all probability, nothing! I prefer to start out mixing my "soils" with no added nutes, and put what I want in there. You did fine. Many people are just hung up on name brand pre-mixed soils.
I can't remember if you said you used bone meal or not, but remember you'll need to bump the P a bit for a flowering mix with either Bone Meal or Kelp.
 
The only available Premier Pro-mix or even any other brand was plain canadian spaghnum peat moss without anything added. I wish I could get BX or HP but not here in BFE. So I know I have to missing a few things I may need in the soil.
 
Sphagnum + perlite (and vermic if you want) + dolomite lime = pro-mix. The different types simply signify different grits of peat, perlite, and different ratios.

Your stuff is perfectly fine. If you're missing stuff during growth, just add it in your waterings.
 
Dude, peat is peat, and sphagnum is sphagnum. Whether its Premier or not. What you have is a mix of sphagnum (a moss) and peat. It's fine. Don't get hung up on names.
Just add some perlite or vermiculite (preferably perlite), compost, manure of your choice, and any other amendment you choose. With peat in the mix, you'll want to add some lime. I use sand and clays because it's better for cation (ion exchange). Structure (proper ratio of particulate size) is what you are going for.
 
Jack Harer said:
Dude, peat is peat, and sphagnum is sphagnum. Whether its Premier or not. What you have is a mix of sphagnum (a moss) and peat. It's fine. Don't get hung up on names.
Just add some perlite or vermiculite (preferably perlite), compost, manure of your choice, and any other amendment you choose. I use clays because it's better for cation/ion exchange. Structure (proper ratio of particulate size) is what you are going for.
Click to expand...

I didnt add any compost, what should it contain and what do you mean with clays?
 
Don't sweat the compost. Compost/manure/vermicast are all sources of the microbiology that decompose organic matter naturally. Having more sources means you might have more varieties of bact/fungi.

Don't use clay/sand if you're inexperienced, recipe for disaster. Use a vermiculite or Coco coir for CEC. But then again you likely don't know what that means. Skip this whole line. :)
 
Afka is wrong. Sweat the compost. Get EWC if you can, also.
Get some pre bagged compost or mushroom compost. It has a lot of partially broken down organic matter and will have a base inoculation of beneficials (EWC will give you that as well).

Study up on cation and soil structure. They are inter related in how well plants take up many minerals and nutrients.

http://soil.gsfc.nasa.gov/agrisoil.htm
http://www.sierravistagrowers.net/growild/sites/default/files/Soil%20flocculation.pdf

This should get you started. If you are a serious grower, you can't learn enough about the science behind it.
 
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