Soil without cooking?

bizarrojohnson

bizarrojohnson

Well-Known Member
Is there any way to make a good soil without cooking it first? I have like 10 plants that need to be transplanted soon and all the recipes I've seen for super soils or home-made soils require it to be cooked for at least a month. It's pretty damn cold here and I don't really have time to cook soil anyway. So is there a recipe for a good soil that doesn't need to be cooked or I better off just grabbing a bag of root organics or FFOF? This is gonna be my last crop until I move to Colorado this summer and I need the best yeilds I can get from this harvest.
 
bizarrojohnson

bizarrojohnson

Well-Known Member
Btw I'm currently vegging in (I guess half gallon pots I'm not sure.....I work in a restaraunt and I use the clarified butter containers as pots) fox farms happy frog uncut. I know not the best way to go about it but all I could do at the time.
 
Forte

Forte

Well-Known Member
The correct term is compost, not cook. Here's a recipe that I'm using with success.

Photosynthesis's Organic Soil Mix:

This will make approximately 1 cubic foot of soil
3-gallons of peat moss
2- gallons rice hulls
2- gallons of worm casting/compost
1/2- cup oyster shell flour
1- cup gypsum
1/2- cup azomite
1/4- cup basalt rock dust
1/2- cup bentonite
1/2- cup crab shell meal
1/2- cup fish meal
1/2- cup High P bat guano
1/2- cup alfalfa meal
1/2- cup fish bone meal
1- cup kelp meal
1/4 cup granular humic acid
1/4 cup diatomaceous earth
1/2 gallon 3mm biochar

This mix can be used as a water only mix. Although after about 50-60 days depending on watering style some nutrients will need to be replenished. The easiest way is to veg in this, and then before you flower, top dress with your choice of organic nutrients.

With this mix I only have to water twice per week. Most people find this amazing, but it is how I have done it for years. Even here in Denver (where it is dry as fuck) I only water twice per week. In a 3 gallon smart pot I will only use 2 plastic beer cups worth of water twice per week.

There are a lot of ingredients in this mix that help to facilitate it staying moist, and biologically active. This may vary for you, but it is a good starting point.

You can plant directly into this soil. No need to let it sit.

When recycling this soil add in the following per cubic foot of soil:

1/2- cup gypsum
1/4- cup azomite
1/8- cup basalt
1/4- cup crab shells
1/4- cup fish meal
1/4- cup high p guano
1/4- cup alfalfa meal
1/4- cup fish bone meal
1/2- cup kelp meal
1/4- cup diatomaceous earth.

Again no need to let this sit. You can plant in it right away.
 
DonBrennon

DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
Forte said:
The correct term is compost, not cook. Here's a recipe that I'm using with success.

Photosynthesis's Organic Soil Mix:

This will make approximately 1 cubic foot of soil
3-gallons of peat moss
2- gallons rice hulls
2- gallons of worm casting/compost
1/2- cup oyster shell flour
1- cup gypsum
1/2- cup azomite
1/4- cup basalt rock dust
1/2- cup bentonite
1/2- cup crab shell meal
1/2- cup fish meal
1/2- cup High P bat guano
1/2- cup alfalfa meal
1/2- cup fish bone meal
1- cup kelp meal
1/4 cup granular humic acid
1/4 cup diatomaceous earth
1/2 gallon 3mm biochar

This mix can be used as a water only mix. Although after about 50-60 days depending on watering style some nutrients will need to be replenished. The easiest way is to veg in this, and then before you flower, top dress with your choice of organic nutrients.

With this mix I only have to water twice per week. Most people find this amazing, but it is how I have done it for years. Even here in Denver (where it is dry as fuck) I only water twice per week. In a 3 gallon smart pot I will only use 2 plastic beer cups worth of water twice per week.

There are a lot of ingredients in this mix that help to facilitate it staying moist, and biologically active. This may vary for you, but it is a good starting point.

You can plant directly into this soil. No need to let it sit.

When recycling this soil add in the following per cubic foot of soil:

1/2- cup gypsum
1/4- cup azomite
1/8- cup basalt
1/4- cup crab shells
1/4- cup fish meal
1/4- cup high p guano
1/4- cup alfalfa meal
1/4- cup fish bone meal
1/2- cup kelp meal
1/4- cup diatomaceous earth.

Again no need to let this sit. You can plant in it right away.
Click to expand...
Does this mix not warm up after mixing/watering? What size plants are you transplanting into this straight mix? I'm not trying to pick holes, just trying to learn. I've just mixed some soil for using as a topdress in no tills, similar recipe, but slightly stronger and with the addition of some porridge oats and canna leaves. I know adding the oats and leaves has aided a themophilic compost reaction, but I'm pretty certain my mix would've heated up on it's own without them.
 
Forte

Forte

Well-Known Member
DonBrennon said:
Does this mix not warm up after mixing/watering? What size plants are you transplanting into this straight mix? I'm not trying to pick holes, just trying to learn. I've just mixed some soil for using as a topdress in no tills, similar recipe, but slightly stronger and with the addition of some porridge oats and canna leaves. I know adding the oats and leaves has aided a themophilic compost reaction, but I'm pretty certain my mix would've heated up on it's own without them.
Click to expand...
I didn't have any problems. I started in a 1 gallon pot, and transplanted to a 3 gallon pot. My clones were about 4-6 inches.
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Forte said:
The correct term is compost, not cook. Here's a recipe that I'm using with success.

.
Click to expand...
good informative post,
although i'd say nutrient cycling is probably the most accurate term for soil aging.
Composting is different.
BUT reaallly? its just semantics...
potAtoe.. poTAH to...
But if we're being specific
Good soil recipe though.
Personally I'm not a fan of guano in a soil mix, but it works great for a topdress or a tea
 
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MistaRasta

MistaRasta

Well-Known Member
Kelp, crab, Neem - 1/2 cup per cu ft of soil

Basalt-4 cups per cu ft
Gypsum and oyster shell flour- 1/2 cup per cu ft



Soil-
1/3 peat moss
1/3 compost
1/3 aeration

No cooking, just transplant and wait
 
Forte

Forte

Well-Known Member
MistaRasta said:
Kelp, crab, Neem - 1/2 cup per cu ft of soil

Basalt-4 cups per cu ft
Gypsum and oyster shell flour- 1/2 cup per cu ft



Soil-
1/3 peat moss
1/3 compost
1/3 aeration

No cooking, just transplant and wait
Click to expand...
I'm gonna give this a run next batch. Thats clackamas soil recipe right?
 
MistaRasta

MistaRasta

Well-Known Member
Forte said:
I'm gonna give this a run next batch. Thats clackamas soil recipe right?
Click to expand...

Yes it is. It's the most basic mix I've ran and it yields the same results, if not better than soil recipes made by Subcool,The Rev, MoonshineMan, etc..

To be honest I really like using malted barley with this mix as it contains all necessary enzymes for INSANE terpenoid production. My buds come out smellier and stickier than any of the Super soils or whatever..

Coot knew what he was doing down to a biological level that none of the other guys took the time to do. He didn't just take a bunch of npk fertilizers and put them together based on what we think the plant needs, Therefore this mix reigns supreme.. I have a mycelium web in 3 days after mixing and the smell is gone on day 6 every time. I just started my no-till pots a month or so ago and I'm never looking back to recycled soil again.. Especially with worms in the pot, they fill the top of the pot with fresh castings and keep the process going.

Easy peasy.
 
Forte

Forte

Well-Known Member
MistaRasta said:
Yes it is. It's the most basic mix I've ran and it yields the same results, if not better than soil recipes made by Subcool,The Rev, MoonshineMan, etc..

To be honest I really like using malted barley with this mix as it contains all necessary enzymes for INSANE terpenoid production. My buds come out smellier and stickier than any of the Super soils or whatever..

Coot knew what he was doing down to a biological level that none of the other guys took the time to do. He didn't just take a bunch of npk fertilizers and put them together based on what we think the plant needs, Therefore this mix reigns supreme.. I have a mycelium web in 3 days after mixing and the smell is gone on day 6 every time. I just started my no-till pots a month or so ago and I'm never looking back to recycled soil again.. Especially with worms in the pot, they fill the top of the pot with fresh castings and keep the process going.

Easy peasy.
Click to expand...
I like using malted barley as well. Game changer. Same here. No going back once you've taken this road. What kind of worms are you using? red wigglers?
 
bizarrojohnson

bizarrojohnson

Well-Known Member
One last question. Do u need a base soil to mix this into or is this the actual soil. Sorry I'm a super noob when it comes to organics. I started with FFOF and fox farms nutes. Trying to move away from that.
 
bizarrojohnson

bizarrojohnson

Well-Known Member
MistaRasta said:
Kelp, crab, Neem - 1/2 cup per cu ft of soil

Basalt-4 cups per cu ft
Gypsum and oyster shell flour- 1/2 cup per cu ft



Soil-
1/3 peat moss
1/3 compost
1/3 aeration

No cooking, just transplant and wait
Click to expand...
Any idea where I can find neem? Also what would you say is best for aeration? Thanks for the info btw.
 
MistaRasta

MistaRasta

Well-Known Member
Forte said:
I like using malted barley as well. Game changer. Same here. No going back once you've taken this road. What kind of worms are you using? red wigglers?
Click to expand...

A huge game changer. I was using oat bran, which worked fine, but the barley blows it out of the water. I use a mixture of red wigglers and European night crawlers in my pots and my worm bin. They coexist excellent with each other and each have their own advantages. The red wigglers will not burrow past 4 inches below the soil line whereas the night crawlers will go down to 12 inches. I highly recommend using both
 
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