Slow Yelling of Leaves... Taking Over Entire Garden... Ahhhhh Yellow Yellow GO AWAY

thoumayest

Well-Known Member
They say to pH last but they don't say to use straight acid, do they? Simply dilute it. I'll leave it alone but I wasn't guessing. I hope you figure it out. Peace.

I guess I dont understand the straight acid part. Are you saying I should let a solution mix sit in a five gallon bucket first and pour it in slow? PH balance after nute mix? It's just never been a issue before but I"m down with doing shhh right...whatever works.
 

GK1

Active Member
Pouring acid straight from the bottle into nute soln is a mistake. Thats all I'm saying.
 

WAZZER

Active Member
CHECK your ph run off i bet its acidic as fuck ,dood ff is pretty good brand and very stable ph the one part especialy most people ph down after putting in nutes but there is people who ph down first then nutes but if that was the problem every won would be getting lock outs , I got similar problem 3rd week of fowering they lock up ph 4.5 runn off ec just climbs 4 grows in a row tryed every thing mate has got it as well conclusion it is viral infection he passes to me with his little ones he gave me.IF this happenes to you again look at your ones vegging watch for bubbleing leaves,leaf tip 90 deg turn to the right,leaves looks like they have been cheewed by some thing.cheers
 

GK1

Active Member
CHECK your ph run off i bet its acidic as fuck ,dood ff is pretty good brand and very stable ph the one part especialy most people ph down after putting in nutes but there is people who ph down first then nutes but if that was the problem every won would be getting lock outs , I got similar problem 3rd week of fowering they lock up ph 4.5 runn off ec just climbs 4 grows in a row tryed every thing mate has got it as well conclusion it is viral infection he passes to me with his little ones he gave me.IF this happenes to you again look at your ones vegging watch for bubbleing leaves,leaf tip 90 deg turn to the right,leaves looks like they have been cheewed by some thing.cheers

Do yourself a favor and give ANY nutrient company a call.....ask em if acid can be poured straight into nute soln. I give up.
 

thoumayest

Well-Known Member
CHECK your ph run off i bet its acidic as fuck ,dood ff is pretty good brand and very stable ph the one part especialy most people ph down after putting in nutes but there is people who ph down first then nutes but if that was the problem every won would be getting lock outs , I got similar problem 3rd week of fowering they lock up ph 4.5 runn off ec just climbs 4 grows in a row tryed every thing mate has got it as well conclusion it is viral infection he passes to me with his little ones he gave me.IF this happenes to you again look at your ones vegging watch for bubbleing leaves,leaf tip 90 deg turn to the right,leaves looks like they have been cheewed by some thing.cheers

I am starting to see that in veg...it's like some big monster bug chewed the leaves but only some and then left...forever. I do run my ph a little low at 6.0 for soil but I always thought if it was ph balanced before I watered the ladies...that THEY must be PH balanced as well.

Is this not correct? Does the PH change even though I PH balanced before watering and or feeding.
 

thoumayest

Well-Known Member
Do yourself a favor and give ANY nutrient company a call.....ask em if acid can be poured straight into nute soln. I give up.

I went ahead and PH balanced the Res last night for a feeding to night. I just never had a problem before.

It does make sense...to ph balance first as it might effect the Nute's but what if the PH is not right AFTER I create a nute mix. Back to square one lol
 

GK1

Active Member
I measure the acid I add to my water before adding nutes. Its just like measuring Micro-Grow-Bloom only its acid. Experiment in a five gal or even 1 gal jug.....you will quickly learn how much it takes and you can add it before. You can always add acid after nutes....just be sure to dilute first. Peace.
 

WAZZER

Active Member
canna say to ph after you add nutes,dutchfest is the only one i know i read there label it said ph to 7.2 then add nutes, ive talked to some old school growers 3 decades plus they say it strips the macro nutrients out and fucks with the calcium . calcium and magenisium is what keeps your ph up in your medium you play with them you asking for trouble, i agree with ya GK1 it makes sence but is that realy what old mate problem is 6.0 ph is to low its locking his plants up 6.5 minimum for soil . p/s my day light hours are different to yours cant reply quick cheers.
 

WAZZER

Active Member
I am starting to see that in veg...it's like some big monster bug chewed the leaves but only some and then left...forever. I do run my ph a little low at 6.0 for soil but I always thought if it was ph balanced before I watered the ladies...that THEY must be PH balanced as well.

Is this not correct? Does the PH change even though I PH balanced before watering and or feeding.[/QUOTE]

ph 6.5 for soil is what alot of people do i think you ran your ph to low and what Gk1 said about ph dumping on nutrients combination, go with Gk1 his got a bit of experience from reading his posts and at the end of the day trial and erorr is what it comes down to by the way have you checked your ph run off that will give you the starting point what to do next cheers. :idea:
 

GK1

Active Member




I agree that the overall pH is probably low. I am hesitant to list my qualifications because I didn't come here for people to "blow" me but I have a degree in Ag science and have been growing indoors for 25 years. Back in the 80's, we packed a soil called "power flower" into the hills on our backs. Ahhh, the old days!

My point with acid/base adds is not that they MUST be done first just that it is easier than diluting and adjusting after nutes. Does canna say to use straight acid? I dunno but I doubt it.

You mentioned Macros being stripped.....this happens when nute reagents are added to water above 7.0. That number differs slightly depending on which "expert" you're listening to...usually 6.8-7.2 is the start pH that is suggested. As I understand it, its N that is affected most/first. You mentioned stripping cal/mag and this causing pH to drop.....I am not sure about pH dropping but I do know that alkaline reagents in particular affect C greatly and if this causes pH shift then its a double wammy isn't it? I put a call in to a friend with a major nute Co. to ask about acid in particular and what direct adds to nute soln will typically cause.

Typically the pH of the media will rise over time. This is due to several reasons, from nutes being used by plant to the inherent nature of biology in soil. You need to check runoff and get an idea of where you are at. peace.
 

WAZZER

Active Member




I agree that the overall pH is probably low. I am hesitant to list my qualifications because I didn't come here for people to "blow" me but I have a degree in Ag science and have been growing indoors for 25 years. Back in the 80's, we packed a soil called "power flower" into the hills on our backs. Ahhh, the old days!

My point with acid/base adds is not that they MUST be done first just that it is easier than diluting and adjusting after nutes. Does canna say to use straight acid? I dunno but I doubt it.

You mentioned Macros being stripped.....this happens when nute reagents are added to water above 7.0. That number differs slightly depending on which "expert" you're listening to...usually 6.8-7.2 is the start pH that is suggested. As I understand it, its N that is affected most/first. You mentioned stripping cal/mag and this causing pH to drop.....I am not sure about pH dropping but I do know that alkaline reagents in particular affect C greatly and if this causes pH shift then its a double wammy isn't it? I put a call in to a friend with a major nute Co. to ask about acid in particular and what direct adds to nute soln will typically cause.

Typically the pH of the media will rise over time. This is due to several reasons, from nutes being used by plant to the inherent nature of biology in soil. You need to check runoff and get an idea of where you are at. peace.
I just rang canna today they do add acid after nutes but they said only if its not hard water and they said if you add to much acid you could start having problems.i rang another guy thats been in game as long as you and he said you where wright so this two guys that i know have been in the game as long as you and both agree with you so im going with your way for fuck sake AG degree i cant argue with that , im going to start thread i dont want to jump on this guys thread to much id be appreciated if you could give me some advice ill put some pictures up im pretty sure its viral but second opinuin like yours would be great take it easy
 

thoumayest

Well-Known Member




I agree that the overall pH is probably low. I am hesitant to list my qualifications because I didn't come here for people to "blow" me but I have a degree in Ag science and have been growing indoors for 25 years. Back in the 80's, we packed a soil called "power flower" into the hills on our backs. Ahhh, the old days!

My point with acid/base adds is not that they MUST be done first just that it is easier than diluting and adjusting after nutes. Does canna say to use straight acid? I dunno but I doubt it.

You mentioned Macros being stripped.....this happens when nute reagents are added to water above 7.0. That number differs slightly depending on which "expert" you're listening to...usually 6.8-7.2 is the start pH that is suggested. As I understand it, its N that is affected most/first. You mentioned stripping cal/mag and this causing pH to drop.....I am not sure about pH dropping but I do know that alkaline reagents in particular affect C greatly and if this causes pH shift then its a double wammy isn't it? I put a call in to a friend with a major nute Co. to ask about acid in particular and what direct adds to nute soln will typically cause.

Typically the pH of the media will rise over time. This is due to several reasons, from nutes being used by plant to the inherent nature of biology in soil. You need to check runoff and get an idea of where you are at. peace.

Word.

Okay. I have started to attempt to PH balance the res (45 gallon) a day before I know I'm going to either water or nute.

Yesterday I flushed with 7.0 PH ... I ran it a bit high due to the consensus that the PH is to low. Have not checked run off as I think this is a very good estimate. I concur that adding strait acid to Nutes is a bad idea.... now that I have checked the science behind the "idea". I wonder why Hydro store guys or others do not state this.

I just checked in...Not sure if the PH 7.0 flush worked yet.

I have been running 6.0 ph for a while now in promix soil. Should I raise her to 6.5... Maybe I would get better nute uptake...hmmmm
 

WAZZER

Active Member
Word.

Okay. I have started to attempt to PH balance the res (45 gallon) a day before I know I'm going to either water or nute.

Yesterday I flushed with 7.0 PH ... I ran it a bit high due to the consensus that the PH is to low. Have not checked run off as I think this is a very good estimate. I concur that adding strait acid to Nutes is a bad idea.... now that I have checked the science behind the "idea". I wonder why Hydro store guys or others do not state this.

I just checked in...Not sure if the PH 7.0 flush worked yet.

I have been running 6.0 ph for a while now in promix soil. Should I raise her to 6.5... Maybe I would get better nute uptake...hmmmm
1 you wont see those leaves green up the only way for you to know if there going to pick up again is CHECK YOUR PH RUN OFF just do it 2 talk to guys that have been in the game like GK1 2 decades + most of them will tell you acid first then nutes,the ph in the medium has to be right or they wont take up any nutes they will start locking out like those yellow leaves , if your ph in your medium is acidic like it more than likly is get some liquid base dolimite that staff works alot quicker than powder dolimite problem fixed ive said enough over an out.
 

thoumayest

Well-Known Member
1 you wont see those leaves green up the only way for you to know if there going to pick up again is CHECK YOUR PH RUN OFF just do it 2 talk to guys that have been in the game like GK1 2 decades + most of them will tell you acid first then nutes,the ph in the medium has to be right or they wont take up any nutes they will start locking out like those yellow leaves , if your ph in your medium is acidic like it more than likly is get some liquid base dolimite that staff works alot quicker than powder dolimite problem fixed ive said enough over an out.

What is the best way to check run off? Put a tray under one of the massive pots and let the water catch in the tray and then check that?

Just never done it before. I always thought if I used 6.0 ph in the res ... the plant would have a ph of 6.0 because that's the ph of the water that I use.... it seemed to make sense. I dunno anymore ugh
 

GK1

Active Member
Hey all,
Phew, my rep stays in tact ;)! I agree that you should check runoff. We need to know if you are dealing with a problem there as well as the former mixing issue. The best way is to use distilled or RO water and simply catch the runoff and measure. The very first runoff is always much higher different than the balance. Its a good idea to catch the first bit and read just for knowledge sake. The amount of change can be an indicator to media conditions. The big key is to use a reliable meter. I've used a bunch over the years and the best one I founf is the Hanna "black". Near lab quality for around 150 bucks. You don't need to spend that much but at least be sure to calibrate often. Realize that the runoff number you read is NOT the exact number of the media. Typically, the media will actually be slightly higher than the runoff. ProMix is know for pH issues. You possibly are dealing with pH issues from the fronts.....improper mixing,inherent issue with media and potentially worsened by low pH nute adds. Doh! I suspect your runoff will be low but not ridiculous. Your now mixing nutes correctly but your media is saturated with the old soln. Flushing often and/or watering to excessive runoff will help to replace old with new. Be careful doing this as root rot can be an issue. Grower presence is the biggest asset you have.

Get the runoff number and lets wrap. Peace.
 

thoumayest

Well-Known Member
Hey all,
Phew, my rep stays in tact ;)! I agree that you should check runoff. We need to know if you are dealing with a problem there as well as the former mixing issue. The best way is to use distilled or RO water and simply catch the runoff and measure. The very first runoff is always much higher different than the balance. Its a good idea to catch the first bit and read just for knowledge sake. The amount of change can be an indicator to media conditions. The big key is to use a reliable meter. I've used a bunch over the years and the best one I founf is the Hanna "black". Near lab quality for around 150 bucks. You don't need to spend that much but at least be sure to calibrate often. Realize that the runoff number you read is NOT the exact number of the media. Typically, the media will actually be slightly higher than the runoff. ProMix is know for pH issues. You possibly are dealing with pH issues from the fronts.....improper mixing,inherent issue with media and potentially worsened by low pH nute adds. Doh! I suspect your runoff will be low but not ridiculous. Your now mixing nutes correctly but your media is saturated with the old soln. Flushing often and/or watering to excessive runoff will help to replace old with new. Be careful doing this as root rot can be an issue. Grower presence is the biggest asset you have.

Get the runoff number and lets wrap. Peace.

I was using Sunshine Mix 4 and really liked it but the hydro guys kept pumping Promix. What soil mix would you recommend. The best mix I think I have used so far was Sunshine 4 and one bag of the fox farm stuff... just cant remember which one. Ratio 1 bag Sunshine for huge bale and 1 bag fox farm...I think it was ocean shell not sure.

Man oh man...I'm gitty at the potential response. :idea:
 

GK1

Active Member
I was using Sunshine Mix 4 and really liked it but the hydro guys kept pumping Promix. What soil mix would you recommend. The best mix I think I have used so far was Sunshine 4 and one bag of the fox farm stuff... just cant remember which one. Ratio 1 bag Sunshine for huge bale and 1 bag fox farm...I think it was ocean shell not sure.

Man oh man...I'm gitty at the potential response. :idea:
I'm not thrilled with peat.....any soil without peat. Once again, peat has inherent pH issues. FF happy frog or ocean forest are very popular. The problem with bagged soil is that often the demand is so high that the manufacturer doesn't compost long enough and you end up with a bag full of bug eggs. Blech! Its not every bag by any stretch but enough that I wont use bagged soil any longer. The only cure for root aphids is poison and I dont want that. Have you considered coco coir? I use 100% coco and top dress with worm castings and insect frass. I use individual drain pans so no tables and on runoff. I use Sea Green as a salt mitigator. I do water often, almost every other day so that can be an issue. Easy Peasy. Peace
 

Relaxed

Well-Known Member
Looks like your in good hands and on your way. thought Id give my recipe. simple and no issues even from seedling. Oh, maybe a tip or 2 showing burn but they love it.

2 gals. ffOF / 1/2 gal. Perlite / 2 tbsp. domalite lime per gal. soil
 

thoumayest

Well-Known Member
Looks like your in good hands and on your way. thought Id give my recipe. simple and no issues even from seedling. Oh, maybe a tip or 2 showing burn but they love it.

2 gals. ffOF / 1/2 gal. Perlite / 2 tbsp. domalite lime per gal. soil
Recipe = Valued Knowledge thanks bro.

I like that fox farm ocean forest...seen stellar results. Stopped using it on this crop :wall:
 

thoumayest

Well-Known Member
I'm not thrilled with peat.....any soil without peat. Once again, peat has inherent pH issues. FF happy frog or ocean forest are very popular. The problem with bagged soil is that often the demand is so high that the manufacturer doesn't compost long enough and you end up with a bag full of bug eggs. Blech! Its not every bag by any stretch but enough that I wont use bagged soil any longer. The only cure for root aphids is poison and I dont want that. Have you considered coco coir? I use 100% coco and top dress with worm castings and insect frass. I use individual drain pans so no tables and on runoff. I use Sea Green as a salt mitigator. I do water often, almost every other day so that can be an issue. Easy Peasy. Peace
I don't know to much about coco coir.

I became a student of soil about a year ago and figured once I mastered it...move on to aero.

Coco coir you say?...google here I come lol

UPDATE:
I will post an update of the run off water tonight along with pic's ... it's been a few days since I PH flushed at 7.0
 
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