SecureGrow 6x8x8 Interior to Exterior Venting During Light Dep. Operations

Building my first grow in a mild micro-climate. Keeping them tied-down in smartpots in direct sun all day, then awake indoors all night, under 40W T-12 (shop lights) until July (day unknown?). Then, out to the gh and into immediate pit-black darkness from 6:30 - 6:30 am. by drawing gray/black FarmTek film over and around the gh like a wrapped bread-loaf - for the next month until August (day unknown).
There's a 6" blower inside mounted to (top) rail-to-rails, directly in-line with the 6" vent sock. I have a 16" vertical oscillating fan mounted on the wall, opposite to the blower (pointed toward the direction of the blower-end of the gh).
I'll need to vent the air using the blower on a timer to vent air while the blackout tent is in place.
I'm wondering IF, using 10' sections of 6" dia. foil, or flexible plastic tubing would allow the vent tubes to be installed under the b.o. film with their (elephant) ends emerging from under the tent (at the bottom) - thereby eliminating light from entering the vent tube. (thnx, football)
And that plank that stretches across the top frame members measures 69-1/4" x 9" W x 1-1/4 top strengthening runners. Use a trial stick that's 69-1/4" long to test the width of your gh, but it's critical, since you don't want fabric touching the wood and wearing a hole.

Found this. Might work for my medical-grow and 25' is about what I'll need. Shipped free w/Prime.
https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-Air-736972-Silver-Black-Ducting/dp/B00A3R8SFO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466188724&sr=8-1&keywords=Ideal-Air+Silver/Black+Flex+Ducting+6+in+x+25+ft

I'm not exactly sure what the question is however light cannot travel around more than two 90 degree corners. By running your ducting under the wall you should be able to achieve this if not you can build a box with two panels inside forcing the air around the corners they also make vent covers that achieve this same thing. on a side note the silver ducting is notorious for leaking light after gentle usage

"silver ducting is notorious for leaking light after gentle usage"
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I'll have (2) soft 90-degree turns for sure. Liking the vent doors on the exit-ends, to stop any rodent travel. I have an electronic mouse repellent fastened to a wall. But we have bobcats on duty 365.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072H60MG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Same leaking prevalent with silver/black interior pipe like I bought? I read more + than - reviews about light-leak before I ordered.

Here's the lock for the SecureGrow hasp.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014D23QAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since the editing feature on posts are timed-out, I'd like to thank cp for the "light labyrinth box" idea. It may be necessary on the east (morning) side.
I ordered the 20 x 30 gray/black for the gh and came up short a couple of feet in width. So I ordered a 10x20 to split lengthwise and (2) rolls of clear Gorilla tape to make an overlap seam on both sides, thereby adding another 2-feet to each side. Might be enough. If not, I made a mistake an shoulda' ordered the next side up from 10x20. Customer service at FarmTek told me, "We use Gorilla tape to mend tarps around here." She first mentioned Gorilla Glue, but we all know that the glue dried, isn't flexible, so that may have been a corporate response that would avoid any collusion or complicity. She finally centered-in on G. tape as the "regular fix", so will it hold up to a month or more of twice daily R&R? I don't know...but if and when the tape fails...I'll retape the overlap seams - and run a line of pop-rivets under washers that'll teach the tarp a lesson it won't soon forget.
Or, any other ideas on how to make a secure overlap seam on a poly tarp? Thanks!
https://www.growerssupply.com/farm/supplies/prod1;gs_ground_cover_fabrics_1-gs_storage_tarps_2;pgcc4560.html

I decided on using 5/8 head pop rivets, with under washers on the interior side of a seam I'll fold, vinyl glue (PermaTex) and then run a line of rivets, first drilling a #11 hole. I'm scabbing-on an extra 8x10 sheet of the black/silver-gray onto the 20 x 30' piece. As is, there's not enough material to cover both ends of the GH to the ground and beyond.
My next task is to make two hinged arms, one on each end, buried in concrete to lift the cover on both ends of this peaked roof line. I'll need to revisit the available videos to see where the fulcrum point is in front and back of the GH's. Seems like the stationary hinge position is in concrete, just left of tent-center.
And the blower is connected by 6" x 3/8 vemt-system screw-clamp from das Depot.

The best illustrated how-to for a biker-built light dep. cover dropper. Looks like wot's needed are a couple 90 lb. bags of cement, a couple of "U" brackets, a couple of poles with "U"'s welded, a couple of 90-degree angles of 18" arms attached to the lift poles, Some wide velco fastened the corner ends that make the lift area for the tarp. Think I take a ride over to der depot and see what they have in the ready-made galvanized bracket dept. Run a long bolt through the bottom of the "U"'s for anchor-tails (with nuts attached for stability) and a 9', 2x2 or 2x4's as a crutch-pole.....shoot man...."Hey Ma!!....look!..No Hands!" Thanks SoilKing!... The King!
http://thesoilking.com/greenhouse-solutions/

Sounds like this fellow grows up north, he's putting his plants in the GH on June 26th yearly to flower, but I like the idea of pulling the cover after it's dark. Still gets hot in the greenhouse at 7 or 7:30. Removing the cover after dark would save on electricity by not using the 6" vent fan.
Any thoughts on his comments about not needing 12 hrs. of induced-blackout?
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"Then, on June 26, he forces his vigorous crop into flower.

At 7 p.m. each day, the greenhouse automatically deploys its cover to block out the sun, creating a completely dark environment. “If you do it manually, try to be exactly on time,” Gibson advises. “This way, your plants will never get confused.”

Once it’s dark out, though, he retracts the cover. “Most growers think you have to subject the plants to a full 12 hours of darkness to force them to flower,” Gibson explains. “Not true—by removing the cover immediately after the darkness sets in, you allow your plants to flourish in the summer nights. Let them experience a natural moonrise and sunrise. The daylight at this point is already getting shorter every day. The plants will begin to flower instantly." - Gibson Ganja Co.

Looking good man. Ima keep watching this n see how yours turns out. I thought about doing this here in pa to use on my longer finishing strains. Idk how I'd feel about a 12'x7'x7' green house would go over. Have a feeling eventually it would get looked into by someone. I'm always kicking people off my land. Funny have private property signs n posted signs don't mean what they used too lol

Well thnx! My biggest problem at the moment is creating a couple of light dep. cover arms that will lift the cover up 1/3 of the way, plant my push pole into the earth, and walk over to the other side and do ditto. Then back to the front and carry the cover over the GH top and down to terra-firma. I've sourced the parts and brought them home from Home Cheapo (the grower's warehouse!) and will post the items in a full color photo before I dig-in. Once the cover arms are created, I can go in and chain-link the interior walls and ceiling with 2x4 wire.

The almost U.S. military spec. constructed khaki-green pot bucket. It has a sewn in square label inside the sweat band. Eight-rows of brim stitching. Once the high-quality supply is gone, the company makes them cheaper, light-weight with a white label hanging out on the crown. Off-the grid growers won't touch them, but med-weed growers need one. Wear it into Home Depot when you're buying supplies to further acclimate the populate to green leaf before November rolls around. This is an election year. This is the election bucket to have.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W44FHF8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The "newer, thicker, better, foil/black 6" flex-tube and (6) 90's, three on each end of exiting tube. No light past (3) 90's?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Speedi-Products-6-in-30-Gauge-90-Degree-Round-Adjustable-Elbow-SM-30A90T-06/202907084?fbtLinkClicked=1466647614625|202907117/
••••••••••• copy and paste. It's not live.
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And the box of vent tube.

How can Ideal-Air flex-duct used with be made "solid"?
I need to run this 6" flex-vent 14-ft. down my exterior greenhouse front wall, and backwall gables connecting to it's existing front and back gable "extension socks". I'm using (3) galvn. metal 90's on each run (h.depot). No daylight will enter. Ideal Co. does not manufacture any other components that would assist in this situation. Their flange-kit is for solid walls. Google comes up empty for a solution. Here is mine:
Water-proof casting wrap. The last time I broke something, they soaked the dry-roll in warm and wrapped fast.
Once the front and back vent hoses are in position (I'm not above using Industrial Velcro strips glued to the ext. peak-edges of each gable to sling-support those metal 90's hanging in mid-air), and I wrap them in plaster-casting, and they dry... will they help support the flex-tube structure free-standing and secured at the ground-level 90?
I get myself into one-off problem situations more than I can count. I'm not bucking the system-of life, the manufacture's have no accessories to go with these GH and keep distant.
Best advice I can give on assembling a SecureGrow Greenhouse, is to fully insert each tube into it's receiver and lightly tighten the thumb-nut. Don't try and bubble-level the wall supports, just make sure that the tube-end is fully inserted into the hub, and finally, fully-tightened. That the cover is a non-giving fit is all you need to keep in mind.
My light dep. arms will clear the front and back ext. venting plaster cast with no problem. Painting them pack.

Here's a grower dragging a dep. tarp over three GH by himself. Can't tell if it's just black visquine or the heavier gray/black like I have, but he uses one rope connected to a yoke that threads through the two center-most grommets. The action starts at 3:30 on the tape.

The arm does it's job. A five grommets span is the maximum amount of tarp that can be pulled, using a 3-rope yoke harness.
The slide-clip is from GrowTech, which grips the rolled (or raw) edge of the tarp. A screw is supplied for a permanent fix and leaves a hole, otherwise it does not pierce the tarp.
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I'm going to run a 3/8 nylon rope from every grommet (7 or eight) to a central 2-3/8 x 3/16" dia. s/s D-ring. - for an even pull on all grommets, but I'm using those plastic clips from GrowTech, so as to not stress the grommets.
http://www.e-rigging.com/three-sixteenths-inch-x-two-and-three-eighths-inch-stainless-d-ring?gclid=CjwKEAjwqpK8BRD7ua-U0orrgkESJADlN3YB3bBJYMAt4dCfrXn5d3fbVEUxlkNkzMRMxH5FzxNacxoCCafw_wcB

This is the top hook I'll create for each push-pole. The tree-support poles are 10' @ Hydroscape. Drilling a couple of 1/4" holes through the strap-metal to attach to the pole. Heating with a torch to bend it custom. Can I get a witness?

The clamps are spaced 16" apart. Three 20" braided nylon ropes with 1-1/2" loops tied with a hangman's noose-knot to lessen friction. The round nylon rope skids across the tarp's surface fairly easily.
It will be finished today.
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From a farmer. "Stop with the Cal-Mag now that the plants blooming, switch to Epsom Salts":
(1) TSP of Epsom Salts per gallon of H2O, each time you water, will greatly enhance trich production. The big bonus to using Epsom Salts to increase magnesium, is the high Sulfur content (Almost 13%), which is also great for trich production.

Done. Needs a concrete pad for the arm on the left. Not pretty, but it works. Tomorrow I pop-rivet, and/or velcro, and/or vinyl glue an 8x10 gray/black tarp to the existing 20x30 tarp to cover that open-end.

The greenhouse gets about 109+ inside and the venting I had planned won't work. I can't believe they sell these in 8x10 and 10x20 - and there's no one to call for any help.
Don't buy a SecureGrow, unless you feel like making the changes it needs to vent. I plan on cutting-out both gable end arches (which include the vent socks) and installing 2x4 wire mesh to cover the open-end of the gables for continual cross-breeze. My one 435 cfm blower couldn't drop the temp more than 2-degrees. (109 to 107). I'm also using my box of Velcro strip to make hold-straps so I can roll the sides up a third of the way.
It's bogus when people sell untested crap. But, it's all that's out there that has a locking gate hasp.