SecureGrow 6x8x8 Interior to Exterior Venting During Light Dep. Operations

Talked to John this morning @ SecureGrow in Beaverton, OR.
My middle name should be "You're the first person" - that has ever complained about the 110-degree heat being trapped within the ceiling of the greenhouse. He suggested that I use shade cloth to cool it off or place the greenhouse under a tree..... and I'm wondering why it's called a green house, if it had to be shaded? Shading isn't going to cool off this green house. It can be shaded and still 100- degrees. It needs to be 85 tops. It might be a matter of raising the skirts in a velcro-fixed position, and leaving both gable ends open and instead of a blower on that platform, I can install a fan the blows in the same direction as the wind does 98% of the time, east, and create a convection current. I've got that timer.

I'm going to make the modifications needed to create a convection flow of air with the 16" oscillating, wall-fan assisting - by removing the gable material and installing vinyl covered 1/2" green, vinyl wire screen, zip-tied in place and then reinforced with those wide-head pop rivets I bought for the tarp splice. Sheet metal screws don't tap securely into the thin tube walls. I'll be lifting the skirt on the sides about 12" for cool air intake and makinmg tie-straps from that box of 2-piece Velcro I bought earlier. The chain link is in place. It'll be secure as per city code, and alarmed, and partially visible. If there was less visible and secure I'd buy one.
I'll get the wire mesh at Depot.....when I take back their 6" vent connectors and (4) 90-ells. Salvage what I can for the modifications and move my wagon on forward.

Back to sq.1, but with a plan. Gables will be 1/2 wire-meshed, skirts lifted and Velcro-strapped for release. Gable transom fabric will be cut on 3-sides, so the apron will drop down and can be velcro-fastened for winter.
13-weeks and they need a GH... and soon.

hydra-glide said:

The greenhouse gets about 109+ inside and the venting I had planned won't work. I can't believe they sell these in 8x10 and 10x20 - and there's no one to call for any help.
Don't buy a SecureGrow, unless you feel like making the changes it needs to vent. I plan on cutting-out both gable end arches (which include the vent socks) and installing 2x4 wire mesh to cover the open-end of the gables for continual cross-breeze. My one 435 cfm blower couldn't drop the temp more than 2-degrees. (109 to 107). I'm also using my box of Velcro strip to make hold-straps so I can roll the sides up a third of the way.
It's bogus when people sell untested crap. But, it's all that's out there that has a locking gate hasp.

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Do you have to have the greenhouse for cold temps, or you just trying to keep them dry in the rainy season. If you don't have to have it, a frame for the tarp would be pretty simple to build.

And you are right to get the tarp off as soon as possible.

Good luck with finding the right solution.

Thnx Lare!
"Do you have to have the greenhouse for cold temps, or you just trying to keep them dry in the rainy season."
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! We have neither. I live in the California "bite" north of San Diego, 2-miles from the coast, so we get more sun than the beach.
The roll is 2 x 5. You'd need two rolls. Thrifty, I'd rather use a short roll and scab on the needed piece from scrap.
Yellow handle shears cut straight.
Big hed pop rivets under fender washers will secure the wire-cloth to the frame.
Pics on that later.
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hydra-glide said:

Talked to John this morning @ SecureGrow in Beaverton, OR.
My middle name should be "You're the first person" - that has ever complained about the 110-degree heat being trapped within the ceiling of the greenhouse. He suggested that I use shade cloth to cool it off or place the greenhouse under a tree..... and I'm wondering why it's called a green house, if it had to be shaded? Shading isn't going to cool off this green house. It can be shaded and still 100- degrees. It needs to be 85 tops. It might be a matter of raising the skirts in a velcro-fixed position, and leaving both gable ends open and instead of a blower on that platform, I can install a fan the blows in the same direction as the wind does 98% of the time, east, and create a convection current. I've got that timer.

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I'm unsure why you're worried about the temperature. You're growing outside... I'm in CA. It's gonna be 107 for a week straight. No biggie.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Rollitup mobile app

102! I've read that while plants thrive in the hot sun outdoors, the same is not true when plants are in g-houses - and that 80-85-degrees is tops or the plants suffer and wilt.
Albeit, when my GH is re-engineered for an open (screened) set of gables, and the skirts raised, it will be more of an Out (door) House, than a GH. And perhaps the heat can be tamed with the help of a 16" Hurricane, oscillating fan..... and it not, then I'll add another fan directly in the gable and blowing outward.
Swamp cooler? They do the job, but with noise and electricity. Somehow I think the cooling can be achieved with fans, and convection cooling from cool air being drawn under the skirts and the heat transferred up to the screened gables. It's going to be custom, dictated by conditions that will need to be met.
Off for another roll of 2x5' vinyl-coated wire. Here's the paper-model for the gable-pattern. It's not too difficult so far.

hydra-glide said:

102! I've read that while plants thrive in the hot sun outdoors, the same is not true when plants are in g-houses - and that 80-85-degrees is tops or the plants suffer and wilt.
Albeit, when my GH is re-engineered for an open (screened) set of gables, and the skirts raised, it will be more of an Out (door) House, than a GH. And perhaps the heat can be tamed with the help of a 16" Hurricane, oscillating fan..... and it not, then I'll add another fan directly in the gable and blowing outward.
Swamp cooler? They do the job, but with noise and electricity. Somehow I think the cooling can be achieved with fans, and convection cooling from cool air being drawn under the skirts and the heat transferred up to the screened gables. It's going to be custom, dictated by conditions that will need to be met.
Off for another roll of 2x5' vinyl-coated wire. Here's the paper-model for the gable-pattern. It's not too difficult so far.
View attachment 3740273

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Treeman has his under greenhouse and my plastic goes up this week.

My gables get finished today. Both gable screens are cut and ready for pop-rivets. The sun is cooperating. There is none.
I'm out there directly, after a bowl of Cheerios.
Sticky trichs. 14-weeks on Tuesday.
The plants: Full, and then defoliated of large leaves. Imo, and this is my first grow, the sunlight will be able to reach those small buds underneath now and should create a thicker bud? I'm liking the trich output since I've been using 1 tsp./gallon of USP Epsom Salt (instead of Cal-Mag, but I'm not sure yet, if Cal-Mag should be used in Veg. instead of Epsom Salt, but I'll ask the farmer. Epsom is sulfur-rich, and I'm told, trichs like sulfur.
After big-leaf defoliation. I expect to see massive clusters of flower-buds drinking in the sun..within (5) days.. (this Friday). Or not, but it's a test. The test? It's whether big leaves on a cola hide sun from the little bud-lings underneath. A Prop 215 grow, with help from Mankind Collective's clone-stock. USA grown. 78-years of lying is bearing new fruit. I think it's shameful that grower's can't produce flower's with a tHc level that can't rise above 31%. We need more science.
To which the farmer replied, "Weed would prefer it's nutes delivered by someones overflowing septic tank, in the hot sun."

Made some progress on the gable-wire. Those are the tools. plus two drill motors. One with an 1/8 bit and the other with a #11 bit. 1/8" makes a hole fast. The #11 follows-up the hole. Pop-rivet is 3/16 x 1/2".
Cut the wire-cloth true to the pattern and you'll have enough material that the top section of wire, at the peak, will bend inward. This puts needed tension on the wire section as you pop-rivet and snip off wire bits from the top edge - careful not to leave any strands sticking up that will rip the greenhouse fabric.

that's an interesting setup you have there what type of animals are you trying to protect your plants from?

Things that crawl!
And, to stay compliant with the "secured greenhouse" requirement of San Diego, which we're not residents of, but, going the extra-steps necessary, that if the alarm sounds I can call the local sheriffs dept. and not be fined from growing my MMJ. God Bless America.

Mwooten gave you some sound advice about your project,it's worth a reread my greenhouse hit 105 for a few days no problem.Air exchange and movement is the key to a happy garden in a closed environment like your making with that black out cover.Good luck with your project

"Air exchange and movement is the key to a happy garden in a closed environment like your making with that black out cover"
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Yes! And I found that being light dep. covered, there was no way to vent that little greenhouse without a couple of gable fans and interior oscillating fan blowing non-stop. It was too much mechanical activity for me.
I'm not light deping until the grow market comes up with a more lightweight solution. My gh was 110 in the shade, an 16" oscillating fan in that 48 sq. ft. space would have given them wind-burn. Any way... I'm making the green house usable now and perhaps, per-haps, the wire-mesh gables will allow the needed ventilation blackout tenting again. At any rate, I've left my dep. arms in place, should the opp. arrive next season. Kept the tarps too. But to me?....those 6" vent socks sewn into the gable won't do the job. Does anyone out there have one in service. Step forward and defend your hut!
I'll try and finish the gable-mesh in-stall today. Nice day out there.

I looked for a "Gear" heading. Found none here.
So, for people that will wear a leaf, this brim is near-military spec. It's affordable and feels right. The brim is stiff enough that bill edges can be formed for sun shield. Unless you can see a square sewn-in label from it's illustration, then it's flimsy junk. Khaki is the only one I trust. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W44FHF8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Got those gable screens in-stalled. Tomorrow I drop the sides, then roll them up 12 - 18" vent needs depending and start experimenting with the 16" oscillating fan, and seeing if I need to hang a Depot box fan from the main beam facing east. Whatever it needs, it's better without the gable fabric. At least a breeze will blow through now.
I'm cutting the gable fabric on the sides and the top, letting the flap fall down, and then applying velcro straps in areas that will hold the roll up 12 - 18" off the ground for cool air intake.

coming along nicely if you want more than one crop a year you can veg them inside under a light and put them out all winter no problem they will flower.We have been doing it for years El Matador state beach 120 miles north of you.Keep em green good luck.

"if you want more than one crop a year you can veg them inside under a light and put them out all winter"
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I LIKE IT!.
I hung two 9x9' walls of thick back-drop paper, so it's a 6' wide corridor of white, and two T-12 shop lights on E-Z drop hangers. This way I can drop the lights 4 to 6" above the tops of the plants when they're getting 24-hrs. of light for 11-weeks. Is 11 weeks long enough for 24/7 light, before taking them out to the GH permanently?

Looks like I'm going to be an "AA" grower (April to August). It will take two separate buildings for be to grow kids to teens under T-5 lights, and then have another building for darking-out the adults for 9 hrs. See what I mean? Because I'm in 9 hrs of darkness for the adults, the teens got locked in there with them and now their flowering too! Boy howdy. I need two buildings and I'm short one.
So, these adults are headed out to the GH Sunday. I managed to bring the morning temps down to 95-degrees and stay within 4-10 degrees of the outside air. The interior humidity is about 20% less than the outside, but maybe the plants will steam things up some.
Here's some pics. Those tarp push-clips came in handy. And that vinyl glue. Melt-welds overnight. Only pre-sanding the gloss off of the vinyl and cleaning with alcohol is necessary. Made in the USA. It adds a whole new dimension to vinyl Green Houses. Velcro strap the dog piss out of it. Any where you want a strap, just glue one on. This glue laughs at the sun and rain. har-har.

Actually, the vinyl glue doesn't stick. I don;t know how else to break the news to everyone, but the GH vinyl might be silicone. At any rate I guess it speaks to UV-ray protection. I has to mean something good, but the glued velcro can be peeled-off. It sticks sort of, but not melt-welded a 'tall.
Trying to get the flora into the GH today. Just brought home some ABSILUTE (a silica product) from Miramar Hydro. Monosilicic acid "with a low molecular weight for enhanced nutrient uptake". Mfg. by Happy Farmers, LLC • Dago, Calif. Apply at 0.25 to 0.5 ml. per gal. Use through all phases of growth. 200 ml. bottle is about $20. Use in place of your regular silica, on a every-other feed basis.
The dose is .25 to .5 ml per gallon. See the "1 ml" mark on the dropper? 0.5 ml is that first embossed line up from the tip!...per gallon. From Miramar Hydroponics, Miramar Rd., San Diego.