Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

RedCarpetMatches

RedCarpetMatches

Well-Known Member
I was curious about my 2 week old bin this morning, so I dug around the bottom and found a balled up hermaphroditic secreting orgy. They just eat and bang all day.
 
RedCarpetMatches

RedCarpetMatches

Well-Known Member
headtreep said:
Teaming with Microbes is a great place to start reading about such a topic. Microbes are constantly dieing, propagating, hibernating, fighting and eating but you learn more than reading the book I referenced. My best advice, as this has been credited to many others, that I've heard this from, is to simply "observe nature". I find that most real quality organic books discussed in thread has a pretty clear message especially One Straw Revolution. "observe nature" Mulch: Cannabis leaves, straw, coco chips, wood chips, all make for a fine mulch. Even sand in a pinch.
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Just started reading Teaming with Microbes almost a week ago! Amazing so far. Can't get into it as much with the whole 'straight coco with tea' thing I have going on. I'll start a real mix when I harvest my super amended vermicompost. They're shitting neem, kelp, and alfalfa bricks! I don't even see anymore crab shell meal...how do they eat that?!
 
DANKSWAG

DANKSWAG

Well-Known Member
headtreep said:
If you're referring to microbes and such they will go dormant. Worms, insects will dig deeper for moist and optimal conditions or simply die. You do not want your soil to dry out in a living organic soil or LOS environment. It's especially important to keep it evenly irrigated including the top mulch for best results. If you don't want to guess grab an irrometer or the like. Correctly irrigating is highly important from the very start of making a solid successful long term living soil.

That's why we using a wetting agent like aloe for our peat before we mix our soil together. Peat is a bunch of dormant microbes when you give them water and air they come alive and that's the start basically.
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This is where I think passive hydro can play a great role in ensuring soil is watered. I have utilized my own passive watering system in PHOGS (passive hydroponic organic grow system). I only water my plants when using teas, and to do so I have to let the passive reservoir run dry before soil will dry out enough to water with teas. But once I due water with teas I quickly fill my reservoir as this will prime the wicking pump (root system) to pull water from the reservoir below into the soil web.

So I am even more excited about organic gardening even more knowing the self watering system I use will keep ideal moisture levels in the soil web for microbe activity. Which probably explains why when I find a cloth pot where water is not wicking due to poor contact with rock layer in reservoir I notice slower growth cause the pot tends to be more dry then wet.

DankSwag
Grow On My Friends Grow On
 
headtreep

headtreep

Well-Known Member
Werd DANKSWAG. I personally try not to get too fancy and the blumats were a simple solution and I hear now people run teas through them. I wouldn't personally. You can automate soil just like hydro if you get creative. You can get professional irrigation systems as well but they require power and the less power the better for me.


This is a post from another thread I wrote but I wanted to share it here.

It was funny I was talking to an employee from a local nursery and he fed me the same line of brainwashed bullshit that organics cost too much to produce vs conventional methods lol. Even outsourcing your own natural amendments instead of growing or making your own compost for example is much cheaper than using chemical ferts and the long term damage the do.

Cannabis is a magnet for attraction of toxins sort of. Phytoremediation is the process. In a nutshell cannabis or hemp is used to clean up metals, pesticides, solvents, explosives, crude oil, polyaromatic hydrocarbons, and toxins leaching from landfills.

Think about that when you put that shit in your media. "just flush bro" lol!!!! haha

Source: http://www.hemp.net/news/9901/06/hem...byl_waste.html


Quick in easy lesson on the topic on the observation nature. Sick crops = sick animals = sick humans and it goes down the line. It's not a difficult concept grasp.

Oh well, cancer and ill health is good business.
 
headtreep

headtreep

Well-Known Member


Not the greatest pic but that's about week 3 and the cultivar is Kamikaze (Legion OG x Pestilence). I'm very impressed.
 
RedCarpetMatches

RedCarpetMatches

Well-Known Member
Blu mat rep told me to hand water teas..."That's what I do" he said lmao!!! I'm a little old school with slow periodic watering. Now going to start adding aloe insides (not outsides) HK. I water with love <3.
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
If you have say 10 plants or more. Would the blumats be a pain in the ass? With lines going every where? If not that could help. Some days I'm so busy that I have to water before work in the morn before the lights shut off. I'd rather water when they wake up. But I'm usually busy then.
 
RedCarpetMatches

RedCarpetMatches

Well-Known Member
I too absolutely hate watering. Watering slow doesn't make it easier. When I get my real soil mix, I'll give the blue mats a go, as I won't need teas hopefully.
 
DANKSWAG

DANKSWAG

Well-Known Member
RedCarpetMatches said:
I too absolutely hate watering. Watering slow doesn't make it easier. When I get my real soil mix, I'll give the blue mats a go, as I won't need teas hopefully.
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If you decided you don't want to spend all the money on that gear to automate your watering, think about what you can do with passive hydro and gravity feed reservoir?

No pumps needed or a timer, plants water themselves and water is replaced by gravity feed float value. Anywise just a suggestion... take a look at my PHOGS journal for reference.

BONUS I FOUND THIS AWESOME PDF THE INSTANT EXPERT GUIDE TO MYCORRHIZA by Ted St. John, Ph.D.

DankSwag
Grow On My Friends Grow On
 
Mohican

Mohican

Well-Known Member
I love those yellow cards for catching gnats and such. They are so expensive though. I wonder if anybody has made a recipe for making those cards?

Hey Red - I hope you are keeping snot rags close by hehe
 
DANKSWAG

DANKSWAG

Well-Known Member
DANKSWAG said:
If you decided you don't want to spend all the money on that gear to automate your watering, think about what you can do with passive hydro and gravity feed reservoir?

No pumps needed or a timer, plants water themselves and water is replaced by gravity feed float value. Anywise just a suggestion... take a look at my PHOGS journal for reference.

BONUS I FOUND THIS AWESOME PDF THE INSTANT EXPERT GUIDE TO MYCORRHIZA by Ted St. John, Ph.D.

DankSwag
Grow On My Friends Grow On
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BONUS GROW YOUR OWN MYCHORRIZHA

WOW GROW YOUR OWN MYCHORRIZA


A myccorhizae factory: The basic procedure is for the farmer to construct a simple enclosure out of landscape fabric, fill it with a mixture of compost and vermiculite, and then transplant pre-colonized bahiagrass seedlings into the mixture. Over the course of the growing season the bahiagrass spreads within the enclosure and the mycorrhizal fungi spread and reproduce along with it. When the grass dies back in the winter, the farmer is left with a concentrated mycorrhizal inoculant that can be incorporated into his or her potting mix when starting seedlings in the greenhouse the following spring. (http://newfarm.rodaleinstitute.org/depts/NFfield_trials/0903/daviddouds.shtml)
 
DANKSWAG

DANKSWAG

Well-Known Member
DANKSWAG said:
BONUS GROW YOUR OWN MYCHORRIZHA

WOW GROW YOUR OWN MYCHORRIZA


A myccorhizae factory: The basic procedure is for the farmer to construct a simple enclosure out of landscape fabric, fill it with a mixture of compost and vermiculite, and then transplant pre-colonized bahiagrass seedlings into the mixture. Over the course of the growing season the bahiagrass spreads within the enclosure and the mycorrhizal fungi spread and reproduce along with it. When the grass dies back in the winter, the farmer is left with a concentrated mycorrhizal inoculant that can be incorporated into his or her potting mix when starting seedlings in the greenhouse the following spring. (http://newfarm.rodaleinstitute.org/depts/NFfield_trials/0903/daviddouds.shtml)
Click to expand...

Could this be done with a different pre-colonized ground cover or is there something special about bahiagrass?
 
NickNasty

NickNasty

Well-Known Member
I am going to get those blumats at some point its just 72 plants half of them in 15 gal pots is a lot of fucking blumats especially when you need 4-5 for 1 15gal pot. Rrog I may have you guide me thru what I need to do when I finally decide to set it up. I want it clean not a web of hoses I am tripping over.
 
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