Powdery Mildew

trueliving

Member
Never heard of horsetail! Always learning something new! I battled pm on and off for a year before I just cut everything down and started over. To me that is the best way, and it got rid of the pm for good. I took all plant matter out and cleaned real well. Then I didn't start anything new for a month. Though I think two weeks would suffice. The best thing you can do to avoid PM is to never take in clones.
 

Firstoffallen

Active Member
Never heard of horsetail! Always learning something new! I battled pm on and off for a year before I just cut everything down and started over. To me that is the best way, and it got rid of the pm for good. I took all plant matter out and cleaned real well. Then I didn't start anything new for a month. Though I think two weeks would suffice. The best thing you can do to avoid PM is to never take in clones.
he got em from a dispensary in A2 not gonna name any names but some people will take any clone from any vendor
 

HGK420

Well-Known Member
i got a case of mechano mites from a dispensary in lansing 2 years ago on some casey jones clones. these things had me so covered in webs almost over night. always start from seed, that way like in my most recent grow you can just catch some disease some other way......... god guys aint it a bitch!
 

FatMarty

Well-Known Member
This looks promising:

How to Beat Powdery Mildew

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You’ll know powdery mildew has paid your plants a visit when it looks lot like confectioners’ sugar has been sprinkled on the plant leaves. At first it may be hard to spot as it might appear on just a small portion of the leaf appearing as an irregular circle. But it quickly spreads and soon appears on the surrounding vegetation. Soon the entire leaf is covered and at the same time colonies develop on the surrounding vegetation and in other areas of the garden.
So how does it all start? Well, the plant becomes infected when an airborne spore, or conidia, lands on a leaf and germinates. It soon grows a guide tube that attaches tightly to the leaf. Then it pierces the plant cell wall and membrane and inserts a hollow tube that sucks up plant nutrients, weakening the leaf and slowing growth. Within a week the fungus produces tiny mushroom stalks that release millions of spores, ready to infect more leaf surfaces. The fungus also produces a secondary spore, which over-winters outdoors and may also hide in a greenhouse or indoor garden even after the crop has been harvested.
Powdery mildew is most likely to attack the young leaves, up to two or three weeks old.
A dozen or so different fungus fall under the heading of Powdery Mildew, but two different fungus species are the most likely culprits. L. taurica, tends to attack warmer gardens. It prefers a temperature of about 77 °F (25 °C). S. macularis prefers a cooler temperature; however, the more virulent stain found in indoor gardens today has adapted to tolerate more heat. Both strains thrive in moderate humidity and are not injured by water. Their conidia can live in water for short periods and are mobile in it. However, strong water sprays do destroy some conidia.
CULTURAL CONTROL
Heat

Powdery mildew is sensitive to heat. Neither species will grow at 90 °F (32 °C). and will quickly perish when above 100 ° F (38 °C).
To get a complete kill maintain the temperature for an hour. This may not be a feasible option in most indoor gardens for several reasons. The first is that it may be difficult to heat the space to such a high temperature. The second is that even a single peak of 100 ° F (38 °C) affects the growth of plants. Vegetative plants with flowers or fruits in mid stage growth (weeks 3-7) may stretch a little from the experience. The heat treatment has relatively little effect on first and second week flowers or flowers nearing maturity.
You can minimize heat’s impact on plants in several ways. Heat the garden at the end of the day, as the lights are turned off. Since the plants are not photosynthesizing, they have lower water needs.
If the plants are being grown hydroponically, lower the temperature of the water to 60 degrees. Keeping the roots cool will help the upper plant parts beat the heat. It’s not difficult to do this, even if you don’t have a water chiller. Just add ice to the reservoir or flow through system. Roots of plants growing in soil can also be cooled using thermal ice packs at the base of the stem.
The heat treatment should kill off most of the fungus and its spores. The chances are there will still be some fungal re-growth. These can be eliminated using spot treatments.
Pruning

If one particular plant seems to be infected with a few tiny white spots on a few of its leaves, get a bag large enough to drop the leaves into and then cut them off into the bag. Remove the bag from the room. This prevents spores, the white powder on top of the leaves, from becoming airborne while being removed. Remember to wash your hands and clean the scissors or knife with soap and water, hydrogen peroxide, alcohol or bleach. Spray the plant with one of the sprays listed below after pruning to prevent re-infection and encourage healing.
If, you notice a re-infection a few days later, there is a good chance that this plant is very susceptible to powdery mildew and presents a good location for the infection to start and spread from. The plant should be removed immediately by placing a bag over it and removing it from the space. Then the space should be sprayed with one of the sprays listed below.

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Maybe there is something to be said for running hot every so often huh?
 

Huel Perkins

Well-Known Member
I have a good friend battling pm right now, being that i have no experience with it (knock on wood) I've been reading all i can about it over the last few days to feed him all the knowledge i can on the topic....

I told him to kill the whole garden, do hardcore cleaning and start fresh in a month but he has strains/phenos dear to his heart that he refuses to give up on. He's been treating with neem and some other shit i can't remember off the top of my head for the last month every few days to keep it manageable....

I suggested a sulfur burner just because I've read that's a good way to battle pm but know nothing about them really, anyone ever use a sulfur burner before or know enough to give pointers on them?

He just bought a ozone generator which he says will kill airborne spores and he just ordered Eagle 20. I've read Eagle 20 is hardcore shit but again i know very little about it and have zero experience with it...

Keep the ideas and info flowing guys.....!
 

NickNasty

Well-Known Member
Sulfur burners are a joke. The eagle 20 will get rid of it but your right the stuff is hardcore, If I were to use it I would only use in veg. and to wear something so it doesn't get on his skin. Tell him to keep the temps from fluctuating as much as possible and this will reduce the chance of it continuing to spread. If he does the ozone generator it will also fuck with his plants. Haven't tried the horsetail but I would give that a whirl in flower over eagle 20. Also anything to change the ph on the plants leaves will help.
 

Huel Perkins

Well-Known Member
Why are sulfur burners a joke? I was under the impression that that was one of the "right" ways to battle pm.

He's really only worried about his mother plants which is why he's okay with using Eagle 20, he knows better than putting anything like that on flowering plants.

I mentioned the horsetail to him yesterday after reading this thread, he's going to look into it.
 

HomeLessBeans

New Member
get Immunox from homey D. (1.5 oz per gallon water)much cheaper and easier to find than eagle20

spray n save the mothers. clean n spray the room with pysan20..a fogger would be better for the room
 

TheMan13

Well-Known Member
Why are sulfur burners a joke? I was under the impression that that was one of the "right" ways to battle pm.

He's really only worried about his mother plants which is why he's okay with using Eagle 20, he knows better than putting anything like that on flowering plants.

I mentioned the horsetail to him yesterday after reading this thread, he's going to look into it.
I believe sulfur burners are an effective preventative, not treatment. Kind of like neem oil IMO
 

ProfessorPotSnob

New Member
PM prevention in a greenhouse often involves a regular scheduled sulfur burn , reactive methods of use are in my opinion worthless alone .. A sulfur burner will not eliminate it in other words , but used with a chemical and rotated it is very beneficial for both Prevention and Reaction use.

Personally I think the shit stinks and wont use it inside , there are many other methods of changing the leafs surface pH that are much cleaner and less of a hassle as well ..

Might as well note that if your reacting to a PM problem with sulfur burners you will have to burn more than just a few hours . Its commonly burnt for 6-7 hours then and most people still only burn a hour or two and wonder why it is not helping them .
 

Bigtacofarmer

Well-Known Member
After lots and lots of research I decided against buying a sulfur burner. Anyone who cares about quality says that its fucks it up. I don't know about greenhouses (learning this year) but indoors I would only use one for cleaning a room. Or maybe veg. I only had one powdery mildew outbreak and it was quickly controlled by spraying water ph of 8.

If the source of the problem is not controlled it will just get worse and keep happening. Dehumidifers and hepa filiters are important in Michigan. I learned in Colorado where mildew and bud mold were things I had read about and thought of when I started but never encountered. After moving back here 4 years ago I have clearly learned why they write about these things. Also whats with Michigan not cooling down at night in the summer? In colorado no matter how hot it gets in the day it always cools down at night. Makes grow room design 99 x easier!
 

NickNasty

Well-Known Member
Why are sulfur burners a joke? I was under the impression that that was one of the "right" ways to battle pm.

He's really only worried about his mother plants which is why he's okay with using Eagle 20, he knows better than putting anything like that on flowering plants.

I mentioned the horsetail to him yesterday after reading this thread, he's going to look into it.
I think sulfur burners are a joke because I have never seen it work in a marijuana garden. It's something everybody tries and quickly moves on to something else.
 

Huel Perkins

Well-Known Member
Good info guys.

My friend called me up yesterday and said the Eagle 20 he ordered showed up. I stopped by his house last night just as he was started mixing the Eagle 20 in his sprayer and it stunk up the whole house already, this shit smells ferocious! He sprayed down his 3 mother plants of the strains he wants to keep and we immediately had to go outside because smell...
 

Eric A

Active Member
Horsetail tea is really great stuff believe it or not. Good smell.....like earl grey tea. You can drink it. You can spray up until flower. No photo burn. Extra silica that your girls will love and respond vigously to. all natural and extremely inexpensive.

We as a whole tend to always go to the store and buy chemicals or some product in a bottle and hope for the best. You can treat an entire acre of crops with a liter of this tea. It's used by many organic farmers in the pacific nw exclusively to kill PM.

Id trust an agricultural farmers advice over a kid in a grow shop every time. Employment in the industry and post counts on forums do not dictate grower talent. Experience alone is the greatest asset in this game as well as sharing tricks of the trade with others who are open minded to try new ideas and techniques.
 

Huel Perkins

Well-Known Member
BUMP!

Just felt like i should give an update to this thread. My friend who had powdery mildew problems a year ago has been 100% PM free after using Eagle 20.

I was always under the impression that PM was a systemic disease and once a plant had it, it was a goner. I'ts been long enough since my friend used Eagle 20 on his mother plants without a reoccurrence of pm to make a believer of me, just figured i'd share...
 

cephalopod

Well-Known Member
Huel did it smell awful like naphtha? I see it's a Dow Agro product for turf and ornamentals. Should be safe on mothers and clones?

http://www.cdms.net/ldat/ld6dg000.pdf

BUMP!

Just felt like i should give an update to this thread. My friend who had powdery mildew problems a year ago has been 100% PM free after using Eagle 20.

I was always under the impression that PM was a systemic disease and once a plant had it, it was a goner. I'ts been long enough since my friend used Eagle 20 on his mother plants without a reoccurrence of pm to make a believer of me, just figured i'd share...
 

NickNasty

Well-Known Member
I use eagle 20 when I have too. It is also systemic which is why it works. I only use it in veg or right when it goes into flower before any buds show up it takes 60 days for it to be out of the plants system. It does smell bad like someone is melting plastic or something and is not good for you but as long as you don't get it on yourself or use it late in flower I don't have a problem with people using it because its the only sure fire way to get rid of PM that I have found and I try to be as organic as possible. a bottle of eagle 20 will last a lifetime and save you a lot of trouble because I have yet to see anybody get rid of it totally any other way.
 

Huel Perkins

Well-Known Member
Huel did it smell awful like naphtha? I see it's a Dow Agro product for turf and ornamentals. Should be safe on mothers and clones?

http://www.cdms.net/ldat/ld6dg000.pdf
It smelled toxic, like burning rubber! I personally would not use it on anything i was going to flower, but see no problem using it on mother plant of genetics that could not be replaced and then taking clones from its new growth later in time.
 
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