parallel wiring led strips without wago's?

M

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
gddg said:
oke, something is not right i think.
Click to expand...
Now I'd only turn this on for a split second to see if brightness increases !!!

Have you tried only 1 strip straight to driver...mix up connections combos on the strip...like + one end - the other then both one end then both other end...just to see if you can get 1 strip working correctly...no connection to anything else...solo strip.

ONLY TURN IT ON FOR A SPLIT SECOND THOUGH !!

I think I know the trouble, but do 1 strip (say the 4000k ones are fine)...if 1 is fine then move to the next until you have tested all the 4000K strips driven straight from the driver to 1 strip at a time.

And PLEASE REMEMBER !!

ONLY TURN IT ON FOR A SPLIT SECOND THOUGH !!
ONLY TURN IT ON FOR A SPLIT SECOND THOUGH !!
ONLY TURN IT ON FOR A SPLIT SECOND THOUGH !!
LOL

I just don't want you to blow a strip or driver.

I think theres a short in one of the screws on 1 or more strips...seen this with some QB boards last week I think it was...screw went through PCB and was shorting traces...some LEDS stopped working and some worked half way...think similar thing happening here, but if each board turn on fine by itself then it will be something else.
 
grotbags

grotbags

Well-Known Member
Mak'er Grow said:
I think theres a short in one of the screws on 1 or more strips...seen this with some QB boards last week I think it was...screw went through PCB and was shorting traces...some LEDS stopped working and some worked half way...think similar thing happening here, but if each board turn on fine by itself then it will be something else.
Click to expand...
could well be... maybe test the frame for any rogue current?.
 
M

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
You better not have broken this BEAUTIFUL NEW LIGHT already...lol
Just joking...sure hope its something simple though.
But just think you can blame us if it is...we had you swapping those poor boards all over the place. :P
 
grotbags

grotbags

Well-Known Member
gddg said:
I also disconnected the potmeter, turned the connections and left the resistor out,
Click to expand...
just to be clear were the dimmer wires joined/shorted or seperate/open? cause the above read to me like you joined/shorted them for the test?.
 
gddg

gddg

Well-Known Member
Mak'er Grow said:
think theres a short in one of the screws on 1 or more strips...seen this with some QB boards last week I think it was...screw went through PCB and was shorting traces...some LEDS stopped working and some worked half way...think similar thing happening here, but if each board turn on fine by itself then it will be something else.
Click to expand...
Mak'er Grow said:
You better not have broken this BEAUTIFUL NEW LIGHT already...lol
Just joking...sure hope its something simple though.
But just think you can blame us if it is...we had you swapping those poor boards all over the place. :P
Click to expand...
This is still my original design didn’t swap a strip! I also marked the places for the screws then pre drilled everything and after that placed the strips and used self drilling screws, twist them hand tight so a screw went through is not possible!
 
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cobshopgrow

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
gddg said:
these strips are rated 36v om the cutter web site i believe! Wouldn’t They brake when running on 42v ?
www.cutter.com.au

SSK-1560ZGE-XX-2835CR Midpower Led Strip - Cutter Electronics

The SSK-1560ZGE-XX-2835CR Board has 100 leds spaced on 0.5mm pitch for beautiful blending and maximum utilisation of the PCB. Solderless terminations
www.cutter.com.au www.cutter.com.au

buying different drivers would suck because i can’t return these unfortunately!
Click to expand...
i fear its the only way to make em work.
your output meter is showing 36,37V your drivers CC region is 18 ~ 36V .
he wanna give more but he cant (A and AB can, B version cant).

the 42V version have a CC region of 21 ~ 42V.

the cutter website dont state which leds are used, saying "custom", but if its the same strip but the reds are replaced by uvs, you will need a higher voltage on the ones with UV, every UV 3535 led i know needs a higher voltage then their 660nm counterparts.
 
M

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
gddg said:
This is still my original design didn’t swap a strip! I also marked the places for the screws then pre drilled everything and after that placed the strips and used self drilling screws, twist them hand tight so a screw went through is not possible!
Click to expand...
OK have fun then...I'm out.
 
gddg

gddg

Well-Known Member
Enanthate said:
Is that a 2-pole or 3-pole potmeter? A pic of connections perhaps?
Also, did you try what Mak'er Grow suggested and connect just one of the strips to the driver separately to make sure they're indeed compatible?
Just to eliminate possible problems
Click to expand...
3 pole 100k ohm potmeter from kingbrite.
I’m a Little afraid to blow a strip when doing this!
 
Boatguy

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
cobshopgrow said:
i fear its the only way to make em work.
your output meter is showing 36,37V your drivers CC region is 18 ~ 36V .
he wanna give more but he cant (A and AB can, B version cant).
Click to expand...
Are you sure? The datasheet says overvoltage protection doesnt kick in till 43 to 49 v.
 
gddg

gddg

Well-Known Member
cobshopgrow said:
fear its the only way to make em work.
your output meter is showing 36,37V your dirvers CC region is 18 ~ 36V .
he wanna give more but he cant.

the 42V version have a CC region of 21 ~ 42V.
Click to expand...
that sucks i thought the 36b was the right one :wall:
 
E

Enanthate

Member
gddg said:
3 pole 100k ohm potmeter from kingbrite.
I’m a Little afraid to blow a strip when doing this!
Click to expand...
It's constant voltage, right? As far as I know, that driver won't blow any leds. It regulates itself.
Might not wanna take my word for it!

As for the dimming, I just googled your driver, it seems it's only PWM dimmable? If that's right, you cant dim it with a potmeter. PWM stands for pulse width modulation, ie long/short pulses for dim/bright light.
 
E

Enanthate

Member
Boatguy said:
It is 3 in 1 dimming. A pot will work fine. Not connecting the dim leads to anything will just give full power
Click to expand...

Mean Well HLG-240H-36B

Mean Well HLG-240H-36B AC-DC Single output LED driver Mix mode (CV+CC); Output 36Vdc at 6.7A; IP67; cable output; Dimming with 1-10V PWM resistance
www.meanwell-web.com www.meanwell-web.com
This one?
@gddg

Edit: Just realized, maybe there should be a comma between 1-10V, PWM, resistance in the description. You're probably right.
 
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Boatguy

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
Enanthate said:

Mean Well HLG-240H-36B

Mean Well HLG-240H-36B AC-DC Single output LED driver Mix mode (CV+CC); Output 36Vdc at 6.7A; IP67; cable output; Dimming with 1-10V PWM resistance
www.meanwell-web.com www.meanwell-web.com
This one?
@gddg
Click to expand...
You should read the entire thing. 3 in 1 means 1~10v, or 10v pwm, or resistance dimming

Probably shouldnt be giving advice on something you havent done, and or dont understand
 
E

Enanthate

Member
grotbags said:
the driver should be fine, it will only go into CC mode when the load is under 36 volts, at 36.37v it is in constant voltage mode.

your right about the uv diodes being higher voltage than a typical 660, i think 3.2v v's 2.5 ish. but it shouldnt be an issue for his drivers.
Click to expand...
Are you sure it's not the other way around? At above 36V it enters constant current, while being in CV at below 36V. Would explain gddg's problem, the driver thinks it's powering the LEDs in series at the moment, hence the low power.
I could be wrong. But pretty sure CC is series-mode.
Parallel circuits requires constant voltage, while in series the voltage depends on load.
 
1

1212ham

Well-Known Member
gddg said:
these strips are rated 36v om the cutter web site i believe! Wouldn’t They brake when running on 42v ?
www.cutter.com.au

SSK-1560ZGE-XX-2835CR Midpower Led Strip - Cutter Electronics

The SSK-1560ZGE-XX-2835CR Board has 100 leds spaced on 0.5mm pitch for beautiful blending and maximum utilisation of the PCB. Solderless terminations
www.cutter.com.au www.cutter.com.au
Click to expand...
The specs below are from the link above. You need a little more voltage to get full power. I'll see if I can come up with a cheap solution.

Can you post a link to your meters? There will be a small voltage drop through the meters if they use current shunts to measure current.

Drive Current (mA)Voltage (V)Eff(umoles/j
50035.692.97
70037.22.82
100037.592.66
140038.482.49
 
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