parallel wiring led strips without wago's?

gddg

gddg

Well-Known Member
Hi,

I start building a led frame, 20x 3000k and 10x 4000k ssk-1560zge-xx-2835cr cutter led strips. The 4000k strips to a hlg-240H-36B driver and the 3000k to a hlg-480H-36B driver.

First plan was to connect everything with wago's but i find it a mess and ugly, what is the best and safest way to connect everything?

I have a couple ft of 14 and 18 awg wire and a roll of heat shrink but don't wan't to mess things up with a bad 3 way wire joint video from youtube.

So i hope someone can explain the savest way to connect the led strips in parallel without wagos.

thanks!
 

Attachments

Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
If you want to save on messy connections:

Those cutter strips have double connectors which means you can daisy chain them together.

Say for example you connect + and - from the centre, to the left and right handside strips from a wago. Then go from + / - of the lateral sides into +/- on the next strip of same type.

Presto, you have 4 strips connected and only one wago used.
 
salmonetin

salmonetin

Well-Known Member
grotbags said:
soldered up and heatshrinked its no problem at all. even better than wago's.
Click to expand...
...una es una conexion fija... para cuando esta claro y testeado el circuito...
...la otra conexion con los otros conectores no ...hay posibilidad de deshacerla igual de rapido que al hacerla...y para testear y probar diferentes circuitos mas rapidamente...

...yo usare ambas conexiones ...w en prototipo Beta inicial y soldada en prototipo Alfa final...

PD...tambien contemplo la opcion de usar pcbs flexibles diy para la conexion de tiras, driver y sensores...
...serie o paralelo o ambas en las prototipo beta y alfa..:fire:

Saludos
 
Last edited:
M

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
If the strips have connectors at each end for + & - then you could do a little swapping of a few strips...every other strip is opposite the one before it (I used arrows to show strip direction)...you can wire it up without any wagos. :P
And no laughing at MY painting skills either...lol
Best of luck and hope this helps.
30 strips parallel.png
 
gddg

gddg

Well-Known Member
That looks like it’s connected in serie’s! I already have bought a 480H-36b and 240H-36B driver so i have to wire them parallel.
 
M

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
gddg said:
That looks like it’s connected in serie’s! I already have bought a 480H-36b and 240H-36B driver so i have to wire them parallel.
Click to expand...
Its parallel due to each strip has 2 +'s connected together and same for -'s...basically using the strip as a wago to connect the + to the next strip + and so on.
 
E

end_of_the_tunnel

Well-Known Member
I think some users attempting to use onboard connectors to daisy-chain large numbers of strips, even in parallel, found they had resistive losses. Where large numbers of strips are being assembled on a fixture, maybe experiment with using the onboard connectors to parallel small groups together. And then parallel those groups using soldering or wagos.

These cage type connectors are good at stopping wires from springing loose, but inferior in my opinion, to good old fashioned screw type connector blocks or soldered connection.
 
M

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
end_of_the_tunnel said:
I think some users attempting to use onboard connectors to daisy-chain large numbers of strips, even in parallel, found they had resistive losses. Where large numbers of strips are being assembled on a fixture, maybe experiment with using the onboard connectors to parallel small groups together. And then parallel those groups using soldering or wagos.

These cage type connectors are good at stopping wires from springing loose, but inferior in my opinion, to good old fashioned screw type connector blocks or soldered connection.
Click to expand...
I believe if they run + & - from one strip to the next to where the last strip only uses 1 set of connections then this can happen to where they get power/line loss over long runs of many strips, but if you run + from one side and - from the other end (like I have in my pic) then the resistance should be equal as long as the same lengths of wire is used for both sides.
Now that being said...I do not have any strips myself...$ is tight, but in theory it should work fine and be equal.
 
gddg

gddg

Well-Known Member
Mak'er Grow said:
Its parallel due to each strip has 2 +'s connected together and same for -'s...basically using the strip as a wago to connect the + to the next strip + and so on.
Click to expand...
That's amazing! I never thought of it like that. Only have te replace and drill Some new holes!
 
M

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
gddg said:
That's amazing! I never thought of it like that. Only have te replace and drill Some new holes!
Click to expand...
Yup..not sure because my brain hurts at the moment, but you may even be able to just swap a few around from side to side...like 1 from left goes to right and the right goes on the left...ever other strip
EDIT: nope that wont work...I see you used the same side for holes on each strip, but a little work and you'll be golden. ;P
 
E

Enanthate

Member
gddg said:
That's amazing! I never thought of it like that. Only have te replace and drill Some new holes!
Click to expand...
Do yourself a favor and put some solder on the connections, for better sleep at night.
end_of_the_tunnel is on to something there. There is also corrosion, you might be running a humidifier in there. With time, solder will keep your connections good.
 
gddg

gddg

Well-Known Member
salmonetin said:
segun mi pov
...yo prefiero usar serie que paralelo... por los riesgos... sabiendo donde te metes tabien se puede usar paralelo pero veo usando tensiones y cargas peligrosas a la ligera... ellos sabran...

...cuidadin con el conexionado paralelo...
Click to expand...
I thought series give bigger shock risk because working with higher DC voltage!?
 
M

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
Enanthate said:
Do yourself a favor and put some solder on the connections, for better sleep at night.
end_of_the_tunnel is on to something there. There is also corrosion, you might be running a humidifier in there. With time, solder will keep your connections good.
Click to expand...
Good idea...might also use some liquid electrical tape or high temp RTV/silicone to cover the bare metal connectors...I wouldn't want to accidentally touch one when light is running...and with my luck I would at some point...lol
 
salmonetin

salmonetin

Well-Known Member
gddg said:
I thought series give bigger shock risk because working with higher DC voltage!?
Click to expand...
...tanto usando series como paralelo debes saber que tensiones y corrientes se usan ... y cuando alcanzan ciertos valores peligrosos...

que es mas peligroso el voltaje que el amperaje...viejo tema... depende de muchos factores...
...ambos (voltaje y amperaje) son mortales...
...se que me hablas de voltaje y amperaje en DC...y tiene sus diferencias a voltajes y amperajes en AC
pero a grandes rasgos
...unos toleramos mas voltios otros menos...algunos calambrazos me he llevado en 220 110 y hasta 380 en AC...pero no todos toleramos igual... ni siempre toleramos igual...
...algunos calambrazos con alta tension del cable de buijia 12v de mi antigua moto tambien te dan experiencia...

...en amperaje nos comportamos mas homogeneos no hay tanta diferencia de tolerancia...
el amperaje lleva mas peligro segun mi pov... con poco nivel es mortal .... con nivel medio es mas mucho mas mortal y con alto te funde en un plis plas...

cuando se alcanzan esos niveles peligrosos en DC o AC?
...depende en que pais o norma de donde vivas ...consulta que niveles de voltaje y amperaje son peligrosos por donde vives...

un electricista de tu zona te puede ayudar con ese tipo de info

Saludos
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top