Jbird7
Well-Known Member
Just in case u dont know, if ur doin neem treatments and using a tent...take em out b4 u spray! Itll mess ur reflectives up
Newbie First Soil Grow Need Advice
Weouthere
Well-Known Member
Here’s a shitty pic of my set up, sorry for the lights on. It’s a 2x2x4 box I built and painted the inside white. Will the neem mess with the paint? I want to keep bugs out of it
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Weouthere
Well-Known Member
Okay good to know. And yeah I planned on taken it out.
The cup is half bug control half humidity. I put it in there at first so it could evaporate the chlorine out, didn’t even think about that. Then I noticed the humidity didn’t fluctuate as much with it in there. I’ve also found bugs in it but not in my soil, so it seems to be helping there too.
Jbird7
Well-Known Member
What kind of bugs.? U shld really try and find a way to keep em out
Kingrow1
Well-Known Member
The fan blowing at the plant is not good, the thermometer/rh meter needs shading from all direct and indirect light.
Weouthere
Well-Known Member
Fans blowing at the pot, not the plant. I can angle it how I want whenever I move stuff around. My plan is to caulk all the seals and create a seal around the door and a better latch as well. It’s all coming together slowly as I get paid. I also need to get some pc fans and make some light proof exhaust instead of the fans just in a hole in the sideThe fan blowing at the plant is not good, the thermometer/rh meter needs shading from all direct and indirect light.
And like little flies and things, I think it’s just cause it’s not all the way sealed off and in the garage. They Never seem to be on the plant or in the soil
Kingrow1
Well-Known Member
In the grand scheme of things make air circulate but not wind as plants hate wind.
To get true temp and rh readings move the meter away and from under the light.
No reason you cant flip the fan around and exhaust is sorted
Weouthere
Well-Known Member
So I set the meter on top of the light, I feel like that might still give me skewed readings though. Where would be the best place to put it?In the grand scheme of things make air circulate but not wind as plants hate wind.
To get true temp and rh readings move the meter away and from under the light.
No reason you cant flip the fan around and exhaust is sorted
Kingrow1
Well-Known Member
There are exact answers for tent set up, meter position, wind speed etc...
But first your meter which gives you rh and temp. We need to begin with what exactly is heat - Heat is convection, conduction and radiation, three different forms of energy that each utilize different process. For our purposes we want to read just air temperature which would be the convection part. To do this we must omit conduction (which is heat transfer from a solid to a solid - top of light not good as may conduct heat from the light) and radiation (which is heat transfer from light sources - step outside on a sunny day and you feel the radiation.
So if the meter is unshaded in the light it will heat up from light radiation and this is not the real air temperature. Mainly find a cool shaded spot qnd thats your air temp.
The weather/met service use a stephenson screen to shield all their meters from sunlight - you can googlemost of this, it might serm complex but its actually very simple and will be part of 101 tent light and fan setup.
Jbird7
Well-Known Member
There are exact answers for tent set up, meter position, wind speed etc...
But first your meter which gives you rh and temp. We need to begin with what exactly is heat - Heat is convection, conduction and radiation, three different forms of energy that each utilize different process. For our purposes we want to read just air temperature which would be the convection part. To do this we must omit conduction (which is heat transfer from a solid to a solid - top of light not good as may conduct heat from the light) and radiation (which is heat transfer from light sources - step outside on a sunny day and you feel the radiation.
So if the meter is unshaded in the light it will heat up from light radiation and this is not the real air temperature. Mainly find a cool shaded spot qnd thats your air temp.
The weather/met service use a stephenson screen to shield all their meters from sunlight - you can googlemost of this, it might serm complex but its actually very simple and will be part of 101 tent light and fan setup.
huh?! ..i was listening..
Jbird7
Well-Known Member
Since when do plants hate wind? I mean u dont want to blowem over, but plants thrive w a nice amount of indirect or gentle wind. Builds strong trunks and branches and makes for larger buds as the plant focus more of its energy on buds that have a greater chance of catchin pollen....wind is the main culprit in dispersing pollen...In the grand scheme of things make air circulate but not wind as plants hate wind.
To get true temp and rh readings move the meter away and from under the light.
No reason you cant flip the fan around and exhaust is sorted
Kingrow1
Well-Known Member
Scales of wind given to seperate free cooling from forced seem to be around 0.3 to 0.5meters per second (m/s) and as high as 1.0m/s in a few species past the norm. This is barely precievable and as a distinction one could call it more circulation and not windas we prrcieve wind.
Some might think plants actually need wind to which the question would be 'Do plants drop dead in stagnant air?'.
Its just a simple view that plants need wind, as long as i provide enough heat removal with my exhaust i dont need to exceed the 0.3 to 0.5m/s wind speed which is really very very low.
Most exhausts should never allow any air to stagnate but some of us like a fan pointing up to ensure good circulation.
These qre very accurate set points and forced and free cooling a big part of leaf energy budgets -
I say plants dont need wind but technically i mean the blurb above
Jbird7
Well-Known Member
JK. I dont know the diff between forced and free cooling. I dontblow air directly on plants. .usually 2 fans blowing in opposite directions off to the side...creating a "circular wind pattern". Just enough that the plants shake some leaves a tiny bit. U sound like u kno what youre talkn about...im def not quite as technical as yourselfScales of wind given to seperate free cooling from forced seem to be around 0.3 to 0.5meters per second (m/s) and as high as 1.0m/s in a few species past the norm. This is barely precievable and as a distinction one could call it more circulation and not windas we prrcieve wind.
Some might think plants actually need wind to which the question would be 'Do plants drop dead in stagnant air?'.
Its just a simple view that plants need wind, as long as i provide enough heat removal with my exhaust i dont need to exceed the 0.3 to 0.5m/s wind speed which is really very very low.
Most exhausts should never allow any air to stagnate but some of us like a fan pointing up to ensure good circulation.
These qre very accurate set points and forced and free cooling a big part of leaf energy budgets -
I say plants dont need wind but technically i mean the blurb above
Kingrow1
Well-Known Member
Quite ppossibly you have it setup well already but nice to have a set number for those that want something more.
I cant believe others havent put their time into more detailed answers on such fundamental principles - ask a commercial indoor tomato grower what the perfect wind speed is and he will quote a similar number and reasoning.
Weouthere
Well-Known Member
Hey guys I get paid tomorrow!
Wanna return the light I have (shitty 32w grow light) and buy either the
Mars Hydro ts1000
OR
Bestva Reflector 600w
Which one would be better? I’m worried about them being too hot in my 2x2 box.
FOR CIRCULATION; should I point the lower left fan out (instead of in)? There is about a 1/4”-1/2” gap around most of the door of the box when it’s shut. Would that create a good circulation?
Wanna return the light I have (shitty 32w grow light) and buy either the
Mars Hydro ts1000
OR
Bestva Reflector 600w
Which one would be better? I’m worried about them being too hot in my 2x2 box.
FOR CIRCULATION; should I point the lower left fan out (instead of in)? There is about a 1/4”-1/2” gap around most of the door of the box when it’s shut. Would that create a good circulation?
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Kingrow1
Well-Known Member
For 32watts you just need the fans exhausting, with a mars you might be alright although many ways - just try not to blow air directly at the plant or make it too windy.
Black orchid do a great 4" inline for a few bucks and any old cheap fan controller will give you everything you need for that box
Weouthere
Well-Known Member
Thanks man! I’ve been wanting an in-line for a while. Need to figure out how to light proof this thing, I think that’ inline would help a lot.For 32watts you just need the fans exhausting, with a mars you might be alright although many ways - just try not to blow air directly at the plant or make it too windy.
Black orchid do a great 4" inline for a few bucks and any old cheap fan controller will give you everything you need for that box
I moved the box from my garage into the house and vacuumed it out, no bugs present anymore
Kingrow1
Well-Known Member
Mylar and some tape but save up for a tent after that. My tents are rarely fully light proof but its all dark inside