Need help with mixing mills nutes. Be kind lol

U

Uniqueturk90

Well-Known Member
I've got the nutrient range called mills, I know how to mix them but I'm not sure if I should PH down the water because I'm using soil as my medium.

Don't PH down kill the micro herd and beneficial bacteria in the soil?

Thanks for the help in advance

:bigjoint::bigjoint::bigjoint:
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
No idea with that fertilizer but soil has all the ph up and down it needs already in it normally :-)
 
Hibbird

Hibbird

Member
Start at 1 ml of food per 1 leter water and work up from that 2 ml per 2 later and always ph between 5.5 and 6.5
 
Actuosity

Actuosity

Well-Known Member
Hibbird said:
Start at 1 ml of food per 1 leter water and work up from that 2 ml per 2 later and always ph between 5.5 and 6.5
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With soul you acctually want to maintain a ph of 6-6.5 leaning closer to 7. Avoid going below 6 as you’ll start to lose some nute absorbtion in soil. I forget why but i believe its due to soil typically having a lower ph and you want the end point to be 5.5-6.5 when testing the soil itself.
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Actuosity said:
Here are my soil plants, we’re about 12 days into flower, 21ish days since flip. Ive been feeding at ph 6.5 since about 4 weeks into veg.
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Ph irrelevant in soil - If you said the word alkalinity and produced a water report we could discuss or how you actually change a soils ph...

But if you newbies thing a bit of ph up and down is going to make a difference to a soil your very much mistaken :-)
 
Capn-Crunch

Capn-Crunch

Well-Known Member
Kingrow1 said:
Ph irrelevant in soil - If you said the word alkalinity and produced a water report we could discuss or how you actually change a soils ph...

But if you newbies thing a bit of ph up and down is going to make a difference to a soil your very much mistaken :-)
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PH in soil is very relevant, or you wouldn't see commercial crop farmers adding an acid or tons of lime to the soil
prior to planting. That's just logic.
I've also changed or maintained my soils PH by watering in the correct range, so I know that works as well.
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Capn-Crunch said:
PH in soil is very relevant, or you wouldn't see commercial crop farmers adding an acid or tons of lime to the soil
prior to planting. That's just logic.
I've also changed or maintained my soils PH by watering in the correct range, so I know that works as well.
Click to expand...
Im assuming here that most soils are pre bought mixes with the scientifically balanced lime proportions for a subsequent stable ph product and no futher adjusting.

Ill also assume most are not assuming soil is a highly evolved living product 1gram soil = 10 billion bacteria cells and 33,000 species.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_microbiology

Also assume you dont know rainwaters ph is 5.5 or much about alkalinity.

Im hardly an expert or authority but your no where near what a load of us have done for a while now in soil and telling everyone to phin soil seems redundant and of little science ws to why :-)
 
Schwagg#12

Schwagg#12

Well-Known Member
Kingrow1 said:
Im assuming here that most soils are pre bought mixes with the scientifically balanced lime proportions for a subsequent stable ph product and no futher adjusting.

Ill also assume most are not assuming soil is a highly evolved living product 1gram soil = 10 billion bacteria cells and 33,000 species.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_microbiology

Also assume you dont know rainwaters ph is 5.5 or much about alkalinity.

Im hardly an expert or authority but your no where near what a load of us have done for a while now in soil and telling everyone to phin soil seems redundant and of little science ws to why :-)
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So you're saying that one can take a nutrient solluction of PH 4.5 , pour in a container of indoor soil and the soil will automaticly adjust it to the correct level??
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Schwagg#12 said:
So you're saying that one can take a nutrient solluction of PH 4.5 , pour in a container of indoor soil and the soil will automaticly adjust it to the correct level??
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Are you saying that the 4.5ph represents its 'AcTuAl' potential to acidify a medium....?

:-)
 
Aussieaceae

Aussieaceae

Well-Known Member
Uniqueturk90,

If your water source is between 6.5 to 7.5, I wouldn't bother ph'ing at all.

If after you mix your nutrient, the ph is less than 6 i'd consider raising it to 6.5.

But generally speaking if it's a good soil, you shouldn't need to worry about the ph of your water at all.
The soil will stay buffered.

It's synthetic nutrients that generally aren't good for soil. Happens a lot in agriculture. Soils become sodic, causes compaction etc. Crop rotation is important too.

It's a little counterproductive for the soil microbes too. Because the nutrient isn't organic based, the microbes have less food.
In a completely organic setting, the organisms break down organic matter into available forms for the plant.
Synthetic nutrients skip this process, nutrients are available for the plant right away, but at a cost to the life in the soil.
 
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Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Aussieaceae said:
Uniqueturk90,

If your water source is between 6.5 to 7.5, I wouldn't bother ph'ing at all.

If after you mix your nutrient, the ph is less than 6 i'd consider raising it to 6.5.

But generally speaking if it's a good soil, you shouldn't need to worry about the ph of your water at all.
The soil will stay buffered.

It's synthetic nutrients that generally aren't good for soil. Happens a lot in agriculture. Soils become sodic, causes compaction etc. Crop rotation is important too.

It's a little counterproductive for the soil microbes too. Because the nutrient isn't organic based, the microbes have less food.
In a completely organic setting, the organisms break down organic matter into available forms for the plant.
Synthetic nutrients skip this process, nutrients are available for the plant right away, but at a cost to the life in the soil.
Click to expand...
With the soil microbes when you feed chems you simply create an environment that favours certain types over others - Nature is always like this - cut your self, you now made an environment on your skin that favours some bacteria that werent favoured on the skin before the cut turned up.

Another highly studied soil fact is that it is harder to change or influence established colonies but much easier to fuck with those that havent got a hold yet - to this end the addition of microbes half way through a grow is simply a waste of money as they will struggle to outcompete or find space to start competeing in a soil that is well estabkished with microbes already.

Ya got to love soil - :-)
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Aussieaceae said:
Uniqueturk90,

If your water source is between 6.5 to 7.5, I wouldn't bother ph'ing at all.

If after you mix your nutrient, the ph is less than 6 i'd consider raising it to 6.5.

But generally speaking if it's a good soil, you shouldn't need to worry about the ph of your water at all.
The soil will stay buffered.

It's synthetic nutrients that generally aren't good for soil. Happens a lot in agriculture. Soils become sodic, causes compaction etc. Crop rotation is important too.

It's a little counterproductive for the soil microbes too. Because the nutrient isn't organic based, the microbes have less food.
In a completely organic setting, the organisms break down organic matter into available forms for the plant.
Synthetic nutrients skip this process, nutrients are available for the plant right away, but at a cost to the life in the soil.
Click to expand...
Its not the ph and ionization constant of such acid ions but the alkalinity and make up that is more important.

To this end we avoid hard or high ppm water generally over 350ppm as that just dumps a load of probably un-needed ions into our soil even worse if thats calcium carbonate because you might reach a point you over lime your soil and kill your crop.

For many years we have been displaying our water reports here and many good members can check it for you and your plants :-)
 
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