My first ever no till cycle.

HighGradeNoTilliDie

HighGradeNoTilliDie

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ShLUbY said:
part of the reason why i have so much drainage (upwards of 45%) is so i can have more water in my soil. just consider the loss of water for a minute. Increase in salinity, decrease in osmolarity, decrease in microbial motility, stress induced on microbial life, decreased rates of transpiration, and there are definitely more pieces to this puzzle. now i could still definitely overwater, but it would be difficult. and as you mentioned, it is possible to overwater a tiny plant in a big pot. it's just so important to have consistent even moisture, and I never can stress that enough. Not to much, but not to little. no wet/dry cycling. I'm sure you've all read this 1000 times before :)
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Im trying to keep it moist at all times but i might start to leave the area around the. Base of the plant to try train the roots out. Do you reccomend this in no till containers or just keep it evenly moist? Tia
 
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HighGradeNoTilliDie

HighGradeNoTilliDie

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Jesselikes2grow said:
Your choice of strains sounds like choices I'd prob make. I love the OGs and the Diesels. I love the chemdog strain I've got too, those seeds came from a local dispensary. Their stuff lab tests at 30-33%, been a winner of the North America cup. I hope to get even close to that. Down the road I'd like to add some super lemon haze and an OG of some choice.
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These are the freebies they sent with some g13 haze i ordered off attitude this time not royal q.
Hopefully i can get to test them out
 
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ShLUbY

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
HighGradeNoTilliDie said:
Im trying to keep it moist at all times but i might start to leave the area around the. Ase of the plant to try train the roots out. Do you reccomend this in no till containers or just keep it evenly moist? Tia
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you can water around the rootball rather than directly to it. it will eventually wick towards the center anyway :)
 
HighGradeNoTilliDie

HighGradeNoTilliDie

Member
Not completely i found with my tomatoes outside i could keep a dry centre after a few waterings. It was just something i was considering.
But thought it may do more harm with the microbe population. What do you think about the yellowing? Should i consider changing the ph of my water from 6.4 to maybe 6.8 ive heard with no till it shouldnt matter.
 
ShLUbY

ShLUbY

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HighGradeNoTilliDie said:
Not completely i found with my tomatoes outside i could keep a dry centre after a few waterings. It was just something i was considering.
But thought it may do more harm with the microbe population. What do you think about the yellowing? Should i consider changing the ph of my water from 6.4 to maybe 6.8 ive heard with no till it shouldnt matter.
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I'm guessing the way you layered your soil is causing the yellowing. as i said before, plants feed from the upper soil horizon, where your containers have the lowest concentration of nutrients. they will feed lower down eventually when the roots make it there, but that upper horizon is a weak (where the roots are currently). They will grow out of it soon. I wouldn't be concerned. I would put a mild topdress of all purpose nutrients on the surface and cover it with a mulch. like 1/4 cup per plant and scratch it into the soil surface, then mulch.
 
HighGradeNoTilliDie

HighGradeNoTilliDie

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Ok thanks. I was just abit scared of the nutes as i had a plant do this and i burnt it with chemical salts.
And someone on here reccomended to me to layer the super soil to let the roots develop before they reach the hot stuff.
Ive had some outdoor autos live on just homemade compost and rain wayer for two months before i had no problems so i thought the bagged compost and worm cast would be ok until those roots grew down(i know autos need less though) I know for next time. Thanks i really hope i can get the hang of this.
I think the hardest thing os not doing too much haha
 
ShLUbY

ShLUbY

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HighGradeNoTilliDie said:
Ok thanks. I was just abit scared of the nutes as i had a plant do this and i burnt it with chemical salts.
And someone on here reccomended to me to layer the super soil to let the roots develop before they reach the hot stuff.
Ive had some outdoor autos live on just homemade compost and rain wayer for two months before i had no problems so i thought the bagged compost and worm cast would be ok until those roots grew down(i know autos need less though) I know for next time. Thanks i really hope i can get the hang of this.
I think the hardest thing os not doing too much haha
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yes, arresting the desire or will to do as much as possible for the plants is a hard habit to break (especially for former salt growers).

what soil recipe did you use? was it the classic "super soil" recipe of subcool?
 
HighGradeNoTilliDie

HighGradeNoTilliDie

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ShLUbY said:
yes, arresting the desire or will to do as much as possible for the plants is a hard habit to break (especially for former salt growers).

what soil recipe did you use? was it the classic "super soil" recipe of subcool?
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No its hard to replicate as i cant get the exact same stuff over here. I made my own usin what i could get my hands on.
Ive posted some pictured above of exactly what ammended the base mix of coco, clay balls and 2 types of composts and worm castings with.
 
HighGradeNoTilliDie

HighGradeNoTilliDie

Member
Update :
Ive watered once since and i fed with worm castings and compost all swished up and added anoter worm to pots. The troublesome two seems to have taken a turn for the worse.
And the other two are just starting to show signs of the same :(
Going to leave them alone hopefully the compost brew helps.
Do you think a foliar feed with some cal mag or somthing would help or not. Starting to feel clueless/helpless lol
 

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Jesselikes2grow

Jesselikes2grow

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When mine were acting up and showing some defs like that I checked soil ph first, was good at a 6.5, then I tried just a micro nute foliar on a few at am and watched results. At same time I gave the others a cal mag foliar and compared results. I knew I was having one or the other but the signs were a lot alike. The micro foliar is what did it for them in my case. It's hard sometimes to determine as a def can be from an excess of something else, or from a ph imbalance, or another def causing problems. IE high k and high p both have the same symptoms. Both also will lockup other nutrients. A ph imbalance can also do the same. Do you have a way to test ph? Take a soil sample from a couple spots of pot. Put in a glass, cup or whatever and put some RO or distilled water in it and mix it up. Let soil settle to bottom and check ph of water. Will tell where your at in the soil and give you a route to go. I'd do the ph test first. Make sure your soil didn't go off. Could also pull them out carefully as they're still small, mix up your layers of soil and put plant back in its home. May make a difference, as schluby said it could be with the layering that there's not enough food there for them. Again though I'd check the soil ph first, its called a slurry test.
 
HighGradeNoTilliDie

HighGradeNoTilliDie

Member
I checked the soil before it went in at 6.5
And i havent checked it since the water i have started using is bottled mineral water and its ph is 6.4.
I will take some samples see what i get. Ive not worried about ph as much as the microbes are supposed to do that Haha
Thanks ill see whats up im thinking of letting them dry out abit more next time maybe sub irrigate. If they dont look better in a few days/week ill try to re pot them like you said.
I might get a bio bizz organic try pack as someone said i can feed that and not damage the soil life.
 
HighGradeNoTilliDie

HighGradeNoTilliDie

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Two are doing ok, the sick ones are not looking good one has stayed the same pretty much maybe got a little more green back since ive folair fed with cal mag. Only watered the bigger two with plain water once since. The sick two have dampend off an dont seem to be drinking at all.
I will throw some pics up and some more details when back from work.(2hours or so)
Cheers for your intrest dude. Ill keep ya updated. Just been trying to leave them alone.
 
Jesselikes2grow

Jesselikes2grow

Well-Known Member
Most of mine made a full recovery from the same type of deal. They were doing shit for close to a month, now some healthy girls. Have the faith brother. Not all of mine have come back though, not sure if I'll try to flower them if they keep on Like this. It's ok though I made 6 clones of the pretty ones center stage. A lot of LST to them or they'd be about 2 or 3 ft tall. The shitty ones on sidelines are really just continued test subjects for my learning purposes. They are all confirmed girls though so I still wanna let em go til I need the room or their past this shit. Hope yours take off like most of mine did. Micro foliar really did it for mine to get going. K had it locked out. Made a feed program with no K in it. 20190226_074432.jpgbtw they're all the same strain, same age, and from same seed stock. In same soil, same room, same grower having attempted to kill them even. Lmfao
 
HighGradeNoTilliDie

HighGradeNoTilliDie

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Looks good nice anount of tops on them middle ones. Weird how some do better then others.
Sorry i didnt reply yesterday when i said had a busy evening i didnt even check the tent.
Here how they are doing. I thibk ones a goner its really brown a crispy.
The other one has grown a little and looks alive.
The bigger two at back the leaves are starting to crisp up from the bottom.
The soil was quite dry so ive trimmed the cover crops and top dressed with compost and worm castings and given abit of a watering not much gonna let it soak for abit might give them another little splash. Might even try to lst the bigger one as ita hit its 6th node.
Hoping to just get the strongest two to flower.
 

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Jesselikes2grow

Jesselikes2grow

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Those leaf edges definitely look like nute burn, possibly K? Burnt tips is from excess something. Possible P def because it looks kinda blue ish on leaves base/veins and some stem purple/reddish color. Could be the pic though. Not green enough to be N tox. New growth looks like a micro nute def, yellowing at center of new growth, probably from the excess nutrient/s locking things up or ph. Again though, I'd check the soil ph again to be sure it hasn't changed. Soil normally buffers itself is correct but amendments can change it. Ammoniacal N is acidifying, bone meals are alkaline among other examples, it can change. As many things showing up I'd check it to be sure. Another note, K and N absorbtion are one of the few nutes not affected by ph. P is locked up easily by ph, too high it bonds to calcium, too low it bonds to iron. Whichever it bonds to both get locked up. The micros are all ph affected also, zinc, iron, mag, molybdenum, manganese, and even calcium. nute def chart.pngthis might help if ph is all good still. A good checklist. Notice the yellow tips is always nute burn. Get your best guess based on chart for likely problem and try 1 diff thing for each. Its a trial and error testing but it gets results. The one looks like a goner try giving it a flush and then a full blend of feed mild dose minus any K inputs and see if it does anything. Use it as a test subject if it looks like a goner. Try a micro nute spray foliar on another. EJ microblast is my choice, matter of hours to see some results, any brand will do though. See what works for them and go from there.
 
mista sativa

mista sativa

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HighGradeNoTilliDie said:
Hey guys, hope everyones high af!
Ive just started a no till indoor grow and things seem to be going well. I got , blue og , royal gorilla, diesel glue and darkstar all fem photo periods. One of the seedlings have gone a little light green and the lower leaves are just starting to crisp up.
Im growing in a 5x5 tent with a mars hydro 600 LED. Environment:75f- 50%rh - 18-6off. Fully controlled. They are in a mix of coco, perlite, clay balls, 2 composts, rock dust and worm cast. So nothing too nute heavy just base mix. I was wondering if this could be due to over watering or lack of nutes as they are getting bigger. Ive just transplanted out the solo cups as the roots started to poke out. I didnt water them as to try soak out some from the root zone. Its been two days and they are still growing with no tp shock. Been spraying top layer. Just abit worried about one. (Close up picture soz about led pic i couldnt hold a light and take a pic)
The 5gal pots they are in have my 8week cooked soil mix ive layered it so its strongest at the bottom of pots and 50/50 base mix then just base mix at top so hopefully they just need the nutes. I watered only with mollases and a touch of organic liquid seaweed and Ive just inoculated with microbes and seed sprout tea. 6.5 ph untouched mineral water from store. Im new at growing so not sure if there is anything i can do or should i just wait it out and not panic too much let those microbes and the worms get to work? Ive got a cover crop of clover coming through the straw. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks a bunch guys and grow/smoke on!!!

P.s the two 3gal if you're wondering, one os a amnesia haze i burnt with salts as a seedling im trying to bring her back(the reason im goin no till)
And one in middle is a random venom og bag seed going to see if i can grow it and sex it for practice if i have space. Not sure if ill keep these two.
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Have you thought about maybe just running a 4x4 bed. I found out in living soils run optimal in bigger pots. I’m running a 3x3 bed in a 4x4 tent.
 
HighGradeNoTilliDie

HighGradeNoTilliDie

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I will take another look at the soil at the weekend ive just ordered a better ph meter with calabration fluid. On a slurry test is it best to just leave to settle then test or can i filter it? I will flush that dying one see what sort of run off im getting off that too. Ive seen something called optic folair spray that looks the ticket. Ill get some on order. Thanks again.

Yes i have thought about that Mista Sativa i was going to make my own out of pvc pipe and landscaping membrane. With a sub irrigation option. BUT im still a rookie so im trying to get my soil mixed right etc as i didnt want to fill up a big bed and find out id done something wrong. 100% will move to that eventually :) these are 5gal i know thats bare minimum
 
INF Flux

INF Flux

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mista sativa said:
Have you thought about maybe just running a 4x4 bed. I found out in living soils run optimal in bigger pots. I’m running a 3x3 bed in a 4x4 tent.
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This. I'm running a 4x4 bed with aero pots in it so I can kinda plug plants in. The pots are just there for transplanting in, the roots can freely pass through them
 
mista sativa

mista sativa

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Grassroots fabric pots makes a living soil pot and beds. Fabric pot with plastic lining. Supposed to dry from the top down, rather than on all sides like a traditional fabric pot. I just ordered a 30 gallon for a 2.5x2.5 tent. If you need any advice on soil mixes, just ask. Jeremy from buildasoil has great advice. You can find his videos on YouTube
 
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