My first 3 chamber closet grow with Blueberry
- Thread starter iloveit
- Start date
iloveit
Well-Known Member
I ran into a major problem, I was testing the environment in the flowering chamber so that every thing would be ready when the time comes for transplanting the clones (thats right I still haven't transferred them) & I found that the temp was raising to 30C even with the fan at full speed (470m3) so Im going to make an extra 2 vent holes but Im just waiting for the vent covers to arrive (see pic).
Now for the good news: Ive cleaned out the entire cab with H2O2 & Ive been testing the Atami system which seems to work very nicely & I even have the clay pebbles ready in their pots awaiting for the cones, believe it or not the process took 3 days. All will be TOTALLY complete by the end of the week.
The clones have developed root systems & are now begining to pop out the drainage holes. The leaves are pale only because I havnt been increasing on the nutes until today, fed them Ionic Grow at 1600PPM (a little too high I reckon yikes
).
Now for the good news: Ive cleaned out the entire cab with H2O2 & Ive been testing the Atami system which seems to work very nicely & I even have the clay pebbles ready in their pots awaiting for the cones, believe it or not the process took 3 days. All will be TOTALLY complete by the end of the week.
The clones have developed root systems & are now begining to pop out the drainage holes. The leaves are pale only because I havnt been increasing on the nutes until today, fed them Ionic Grow at 1600PPM (a little too high I reckon yikes
).Attachments
iloveit
Well-Known Member
Aahhhhhhhhhh all done at last.
I am pleased to say all the temp & ventilation issues are no solved, clones have been transferred to the flowering room although im going to allow it to remain in veg state for approximately a month, & all ducting & pipe work have been cut dow to size & fitted.
So what changes have been made I hear you ask well...
PICS 1-5)
Here I have connected the HPS to the outside pipe work which sucks in cool air from the ground (as cool air sinks) & blows the hot air out of the cab. The HPS has its own dedicated RVK fan (125mm 225m3/hr) which is connected to a fan controller (1 of 2) with a temperature probe
PICS SIX-EIGHT)
This is the new "6 inch Ruck fan (470m3)" I installed to cope with the combined heat from the 3 chambers. It is connected to a SILENT controller (2 of 2 but without the temperature probe) which eliminates the electronic buzzing sound when the fan is running at a lower revolutions. And of course the fan is duct to a "6 inch Rhino Pro filter (formerly named Phat Filter) 600m3.
PICS 9-10)
When I first purchased the cab their was alot of light leakage from the partitioned chambers (light was following through the pipe work) so I purchased some fittings & light proof ducting to put an end to the silly problem yet making sure the air continues to pass through.
PIC 11)
I realized that the fan was creating such a high amount of vacume yet their wasnt enough holes to suck the air in from so I drilled 2 holes in the flowering chamber where the temp is the highest at all times & stuck 2 vent which have angled ridges in between. I made sure to align the vents in such away that they would suck air in on to the plants: the first one low for the clones & the second one higher for when the plants grower a little more. Also I can turn the vents to direct the air flow in any direction even to the HPS cooltube if need be.
The rest of the pics is to give you an idea of how the cab works.
All of the above is not part of the cab package, I had to purchase it separately & install it all myself (so the purchase of the cab alone is not worth the price), even though Ive never used a power drill or jigsaw before I decided to go for it. And although it was a bit of work I must say I have learned exactly how the environment in the chambers is affected due to small adjustments, now I appreciate the effort of the big grow areas Ive seen posted on rollitup by other members.
Oh & in the 30litre tank is:
Ionic grow- half strength (1000 PPM/1.5 EC).
PH @ 6.8.
Hydrogen peroxide @ 17.5% (to add a little oxygen).
An additional air stone for a bit more oxygen the more the better...right? He he he.
At the moment the HPS is 23 inches away from the clones.
After all that work I am exhausted im off to bed, night night boys & girls...ZZzzzzzzzzzzzz
I am pleased to say all the temp & ventilation issues are no solved, clones have been transferred to the flowering room although im going to allow it to remain in veg state for approximately a month, & all ducting & pipe work have been cut dow to size & fitted.
So what changes have been made I hear you ask well...
PICS 1-5)
Here I have connected the HPS to the outside pipe work which sucks in cool air from the ground (as cool air sinks) & blows the hot air out of the cab. The HPS has its own dedicated RVK fan (125mm 225m3/hr) which is connected to a fan controller (1 of 2) with a temperature probe
PICS SIX-EIGHT)
This is the new "6 inch Ruck fan (470m3)" I installed to cope with the combined heat from the 3 chambers. It is connected to a SILENT controller (2 of 2 but without the temperature probe) which eliminates the electronic buzzing sound when the fan is running at a lower revolutions. And of course the fan is duct to a "6 inch Rhino Pro filter (formerly named Phat Filter) 600m3.
PICS 9-10)
When I first purchased the cab their was alot of light leakage from the partitioned chambers (light was following through the pipe work) so I purchased some fittings & light proof ducting to put an end to the silly problem yet making sure the air continues to pass through.
PIC 11)
I realized that the fan was creating such a high amount of vacume yet their wasnt enough holes to suck the air in from so I drilled 2 holes in the flowering chamber where the temp is the highest at all times & stuck 2 vent which have angled ridges in between. I made sure to align the vents in such away that they would suck air in on to the plants: the first one low for the clones & the second one higher for when the plants grower a little more. Also I can turn the vents to direct the air flow in any direction even to the HPS cooltube if need be.
The rest of the pics is to give you an idea of how the cab works.
All of the above is not part of the cab package, I had to purchase it separately & install it all myself (so the purchase of the cab alone is not worth the price), even though Ive never used a power drill or jigsaw before I decided to go for it. And although it was a bit of work I must say I have learned exactly how the environment in the chambers is affected due to small adjustments, now I appreciate the effort of the big grow areas Ive seen posted on rollitup by other members.
Oh & in the 30litre tank is:
Ionic grow- half strength (1000 PPM/1.5 EC).
PH @ 6.8.
Hydrogen peroxide @ 17.5% (to add a little oxygen).
An additional air stone for a bit more oxygen the more the better...right? He he he.
At the moment the HPS is 23 inches away from the clones.
After all that work I am exhausted im off to bed, night night boys & girls...ZZzzzzzzzzzzzz
Attachments
sandmonkey
Well-Known Member
awesome setup bro 
those clones are looking a bit hungry.
do you have a small fan blowing directly on the stems? If you're gonna veg 'em for a month, you really want strong sturdy stems when budding to support the weight.
I neglected this on my first grow, and had to tie up all the plants
From what i've read this is especially important for clones.
those clones are looking a bit hungry.
do you have a small fan blowing directly on the stems? If you're gonna veg 'em for a month, you really want strong sturdy stems when budding to support the weight.
I neglected this on my first grow, and had to tie up all the plants
From what i've read this is especially important for clones.
iloveit
Well-Known Member
At the moment Im watering via the drippers 4 times a day for 5mins each watering.awesome setup bro
those clones are looking a bit hungry.
do you have a small fan blowing directly on the stems? If you're gonna veg 'em for a month, you really want strong sturdy stems when budding to support the weight.
I neglected this on my first grow, and had to tie up all the plants
From what i've read this is especially important for clones.
As for the fan Im rellying on the intake vent which are constantly blowing air on the clones but if its not enough then I will add a fan.
DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A VERY SMALL FAN I CAN PLACE IN THE GROW CAB? (NOT THE SMALL CLIP ON FANS THEY ARE NOT SMALL ENOUGH)
sandmonkey
Well-Known Member
No nutes yet?
My clip-on fan is pretty small; about 20cm diameter.
My clip-on fan is pretty small; about 20cm diameter.
iloveit
Well-Known Member
I mentioned the nutrients in the tank in post No. 303 here it is again:
Ionic grow- half strength (1000 PPM/1.5 EC).
PH @ 6.8.
Hydrogen peroxide @ 17.5% (to add a little oxygen).
I have a small clip on fan but it doesnt bend in all angles & the depth is to thick.
iloveit
Well-Known Member
DAY 2 (since transplanting).
These clones are beginning to turn brown at the tip & edges Im not to sure what these signs are maybe you guys can tell.
The temp in the cab was at 27C at the surface of the clay pebbles (which is where the hygrometer sits) give or take 2C & thewhen the lights turned off I noticed the root riot cubes where quite dry to the touch so Ive adjusted the dripper timer to switch on for 4 times daily in 15 minute intervals. Also Ive placed the ducting in such away that the gentle airflow blows very close to the clones.
Man I hate it when things go wrong
These clones are beginning to turn brown at the tip & edges Im not to sure what these signs are maybe you guys can tell.
The temp in the cab was at 27C at the surface of the clay pebbles (which is where the hygrometer sits) give or take 2C & thewhen the lights turned off I noticed the root riot cubes where quite dry to the touch so Ive adjusted the dripper timer to switch on for 4 times daily in 15 minute intervals. Also Ive placed the ducting in such away that the gentle airflow blows very close to the clones.
Man I hate it when things go wrong
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NewGrowth
Well-Known Member
Looks like heat stress, what is your humidity? I set up a small tent recently my first time in such a small space. I noticed that the combination of a larger light in a small area and low humidity caused the plants a little stress when the temps got above 80F so 27C. When the plants grew a larger root system they seemed less susceptible. I fixed the problem by cramming a humidifier in there.
Cab looks good though! Very well done
Cab looks good though! Very well done
iloveit
Well-Known Member
Thanks NG.Looks like heat stress, what is your humidity? I set up a small tent recently my first time in such a small space. I noticed that the combination of a larger light in a small area and low humidity caused the plants a little stress when the temps got above 80F so 27C. When the plants grew a larger root system they seemed less susceptible. I fixed the problem by cramming a humidifier in there.
Cab looks good though! Very well done
Just checked the environment & this is what I found:
- Humidity is at 24% ,
- Temp remains at 27-28C (at night cycle 22C),
- PH somehow went up to 8.0
but I definitely PHed the tank 3 days ago @ 6.8 because my medium of choice is "Root Riot",
- I also found at the bottom of the water tank what looked like white grains, very similar to salt or sugar in appearance.
Regarding the strange PH problem; I have no idea whats going on. I always allow 24hrs of evaporation time before using the tap water. BUT I JUST PHed THE TANK TO 5.9 (according to the chart in the pic its at an average rate).
And the white grains, I hear alot about salt build up in other posts is that what this is?
Any advice NewGrowth?
NewGrowth
Well-Known Member
Yeah I just had a reminder of what a high Ph can do to plants today. I repotted a bunch of mothers recently and I was in a hurry and forgot to Ph the water.Thanks NG.
Just checked the environment & this is what I found:
- Humidity is at 24% ,
- Temp remains at 27-28C (at night cycle 22C),
- PH somehow went up to 8.0
First of all my current humidifier is way to big to fit in the cab so Im going to order a smaller one, thats the humidiy sorted.
- I also found at the bottom of the water tank what looked like white grains, very similar to salt or sugar in appearance.
Regarding the strange PH problem; I have no idea whats going on. I always allow 24hrs of evaporation time before using the tap water. BUT I JUST PHed THE TANK TO 5.9 (according to the chart in the pic its at an average rate).
And the white grains, I hear alot about salt build up in other posts is that what this is?
Any advice NewGrowth?
I re-watered earlier with Ph adjusted water and they already look better.Salt build up can cause Ph flux. When the water evaporates it carries the nutrient salts with it and then dries and crystalizes. If you get a lot sometimes pieces of crystalized nutrient salts will fall into the reservoir. Make sure you rinse our your reservoir between changes and if you have lots of salt build up scrub the whole thing down with soap and water.
It think everything is linked in your case: Low humidity causing rapid evaporation and transpiration. The fast evaporation is causing salt build up that results in Ph flux. Try lowering your nutrient strength a bit, flushing your reservoir and raising your humidity.
Good luck bro!
iloveit
Well-Known Member
Yeah I just had a reminder of what a high Ph can do to plants today. I repotted a bunch of mothers recently and I was in a hurry and forgot to Ph the water.
Salt build up can cause Ph flux. When the water evaporates it carries the nutrient salts with it and then dries and crystalizes. If you get a lot sometimes pieces of crystalized nutrient salts will fall into the reservoir. Make sure you rinse our your reservoir between changes and if you have lots of salt build up scrub the whole thing down with soap and water.
It think everything is linked in your case: Low humidity causing rapid evaporation and transpiration. The fast evaporation is causing salt build up that results in Ph flux. Try lowering your nutrient strength a bit, flushing your reservoir and raising your humidity.
Good luck bro!
Ahh intresting, hopefully things will pick up with the humidifier.
Thank you very much for the new piece of info.
9inch bigbud
Well-Known Member
hi m8 see this pic here
that is light bleeching. get some new pics up!
p.s if the plant need more N then the bottom of the plant will yellow 1st not the top!
iloveit
Well-Known Member
Here we go amigos new pics as promised. The first 4 pics are the clones individually shot, they are all approx 8-10inches in height. As you can see the lower leaves are horrid thats when I first transfered them in the Atami wilma system with the cooltube too close 
. But then "9inchbigbud" recommended I place the cooltube alot higher & things soon picked up. Thanks matey. By the way the higher leaves are a full darker green colour the camera flash gives it a light green complexion. Ive found that when the hour comes close to lights off the leaves get droopy like they are now this is also true when the humidity increases, very strange.
Then some pics of the setup as a whole. I have around 1 metre of height growth if I were to hang the cooltube at the very top.
So this is the status, Im going to switch to 12/12 this sunday due to the restricted height, if the Atami sytem shorter in depth I probably would have veged for a month oh well. Although the bottom leaves arnt so great their are new leaves beginning to grow out from the nodes (doesnt quite show in the pics Ill do a better job tomorrow) will this have an effect on the growth?
See the last pic with dust caught in the net filter? Thats what I use to filter large bits of dust & debris in between the joints of the plastic ducing which is connected to the cooltube (secondry RVK fan to cool the cooltube). IVE SEARCHED ALL OVER EBAY, HARDWARE STORES, OTHER WEBSITES BUT CANT FIND ANY MATERIAL WHICH WILL REPLACE THE FILTER NET (fly screen). You may be thinking "But its doing the job by filtering dust like the pic shows", wrong! The smaller bits of dust makes its way all the way to the cooltube, Im afraid that it may reduce lumens, intensity & UV rays so I clean it every week but disconnecting & reconnecting the tight squeeze ducting can be difficult. Can anyone suggest any material/fabric which will filter the dust yet allow the air to pass through with ease?
. But then "9inchbigbud" recommended I place the cooltube alot higher & things soon picked up. Thanks matey. By the way the higher leaves are a full darker green colour the camera flash gives it a light green complexion. Ive found that when the hour comes close to lights off the leaves get droopy like they are now this is also true when the humidity increases, very strange.Then some pics of the setup as a whole. I have around 1 metre of height growth if I were to hang the cooltube at the very top.
So this is the status, Im going to switch to 12/12 this sunday due to the restricted height, if the Atami sytem shorter in depth I probably would have veged for a month oh well. Although the bottom leaves arnt so great their are new leaves beginning to grow out from the nodes (doesnt quite show in the pics Ill do a better job tomorrow) will this have an effect on the growth?
See the last pic with dust caught in the net filter? Thats what I use to filter large bits of dust & debris in between the joints of the plastic ducing which is connected to the cooltube (secondry RVK fan to cool the cooltube). IVE SEARCHED ALL OVER EBAY, HARDWARE STORES, OTHER WEBSITES BUT CANT FIND ANY MATERIAL WHICH WILL REPLACE THE FILTER NET (fly screen). You may be thinking "But its doing the job by filtering dust like the pic shows", wrong! The smaller bits of dust makes its way all the way to the cooltube, Im afraid that it may reduce lumens, intensity & UV rays so I clean it every week but disconnecting & reconnecting the tight squeeze ducting can be difficult. Can anyone suggest any material/fabric which will filter the dust yet allow the air to pass through with ease?
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9inch bigbud
Well-Known Member
looking good the room will be full in a few weeks 
its up to you if you want to switch to bloom now or keep using the grow. I my self would switch to bloom to try to stop the stretch a bit because you have limited head room.
nice grow box where did you get it from or did you make it your self?
its up to you if you want to switch to bloom now or keep using the grow. I my self would switch to bloom to try to stop the stretch a bit because you have limited head room.nice grow box where did you get it from or did you make it your self?
iloveit
Well-Known Member
Ill switch to Bloom but how many PPM should I feed em right now & how much should I go up to? & at what PH?looking good the room will be full in a few weeks
nice grow box where did you get it from or did you make it your self?
I purchased the grow box with all the electrics pre wired, even so I still had to add some equipment & make other modifications due to heat issues. There are 3 chambers: Mother plant, clones & flowering room. If I had to restart the entire setup I would build it myself thats for sure.
9inch bigbud
Well-Known Member
i would start at 1200ppm and see how they do and if they like it?. the next day take a tank reading does the PPM go up or down? if the PPM go down add a bit more your plants are hungry and can take more if the PPM go up use less if it stays the same then do nothing.